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Found 12 results

  1. Mom's 2002 Outback keeps throwing the code p0420. I'm told this means "catalytic converter". History (within the last six months): 2002 Outback, odometer 165,000, purchased from used Subaru sales/repair business. - Engine bearing went out. Highway breakdown within 1000 miles of purchase. - Short block replaced. - Check engine p0420. Shop replaced cat saying maybe the engine failure ruined the cat. - Check engine p0420. Shop says 2002 Outbacks have this problem, not 2001, not 2003. Shop says we could 1) try various fuel additives, 2) replace cat with genuine Subaru part for around $1000, or 3) replace cat with a high performance cat Magnaflow for $500. - Installed Magnaflow - Check engine p0420. Shop says again its just this year for some reason. Options: 1) replace magnaflow with Subaru cat, and receive $500 credit, 2) swap 2002 computer out with a 2001 Outback, since its really the computer that is having the problem, or 3) keep trying different additives. When I mentioned o=o2 sensor, the shop said there's another code for that, so that isn't the problem. So what to do? Is this 2002 Outback cat problem a well known problem? Because I'm not finding a lot of talk about it. How exactly does information about the catalytic converter flow to the computer? How are o2 sensors related? How to get this check engine light to go away so my poor mother can drive in peace?
  2. Hello, So my Legacy is starting to pull a 0420 code, due to the previous owner doing improper repairs or lack of work, thus causing damage to the cat. Has anyone ever seen this modeled installed or any feedback good or bad. https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=52305
  3. Hello everyone, my 1995 Legacy Outback (340K miles now ) has thrown the dreaded PO420 code, I noticed that Subaru has discontinued OEM catalytic converters. Is there a replacement OEM part # or will I need to go aftermarket? If I need to go aftermarket, what is a quality company to purchase replacement CC's from? Thanks for you help. I am the original owner of this car, it just keeps running so well, no need to replace it!
  4. I've got a 1999 Subaru Forester with bad catalytic converters(according to CEL scan and my mechanic). The last time i had some exhaust work done for exhaust leakage a muffler shop cut one of the pipe-to-cat.convert rusted flanges and welded. My mechanic can't weld so i go to muffler shop. They want $750 to install new cat. converter. They won't consider me buying the part, at way less, and them doing the work. I get the idea that muffler shops won't do that. Any suggestions on who I might get to do that and what about eliminating the flange on the other end with a weld?That would mean removing flanges on the cat. converter?.Should i just bite the bullet and get the work done?? I hope this makes sense. Thanks
  5. Need some advice, I have a Subaru Outback 2000 with over 250,xxx Miles. Codes: P0420 and P0303 When I initially ran the reader it said the O2 sensors were bad, both front and back. I replaced those hoping it would eliminate the 420 code also but it has not. Though, the O2 sensor codes did go away. Any advice on what would be good to check before outright replacing the Cat? As for the 303 code I was advised that this is probably related and will go away once the 420 code is eliminated. The car doesn't run well. It lacks power and often stutters while accelerating, sometimes almost violently if the AC is on. My Battery has had some issues with a bad connection that I have to tighten frequently because someone overtightened it. Anything helps!
  6. BLUF: Could failing/poorly functioning catalytic converter be related to/caused by previous gasket head cracks or by repair work done to replace cracked gasket head?? Mechanically challenged 08 Forester owner here. A few months ago, we found out that the gasket head was cracked. Right after we picked it up, we noticed that it seemed to have less power and, very obviously, the gas mileage was lower. The repair shop did not believe (or at least admit) that there was any connection between the replaced gasket head work and the substantial reduction (I calculated it to be about 3-5 MPG difference) in fuel efficiency. Three months after the repairs, the check engine lights came on. The repair shop advised that the sensors showed that the catalytic converter was failing/had failed. They said there was little difference in temperatures going in and going out of the catalytic converter system (I'm simplifying what they said but that sums it up). I asked about whether it could be caused by the engine not "burning" all of the gas, but they said that if that were the case the error codes would be different. And that I need a new catalytic converter. I'm hesitant to shell out the cost without knowing why it failed (so that it doesn't fail again and I'm looking at buying another one. Is there a way to determine why the CC failed? Should I take it for a second opinion? What other questions should I ask? Many thanks in advance for your help.
  7. 98 OBW w/ 2.2 240K miles The back story. Three years and 5K miles ago I performed significant exhaust repair. I replaced the rear catalytic converter, O2 sensor, center pipe and muffler all due to rust. I purchased the parts off the internet. All of them were aftermarket. I could not get things bolted together tightly so I did end up at a local exhaust shop that tightened things up for me including extended the center pipe for a $100. I am writing this up to provide some encouragement when things go bad and to provide all of the parts that will fit perfect without any trips to the shop. If I had to take this to the shop I probably would have sold the car as-is due to the cost of the repair Present day Nov 2015. I thought this would be a 5 minute $5 fix. I had a leak where the Y-pipe meets the head. I proceeded to unbolt the y-pipe with the impact wrench and snapped an exhaust stud. I was able to remove the other three with nut and stud as one piece. They were fused together due to rust. Now I needed the exhaust out of the way. Unbolting the y-pip from the front cat is not worth the pain of working on your back so I pulled down the entire exhaust for a good inspection. Things just got worse from here. One broken exhaust stud in the block. Rear stud driver side. (worst one to snap) The y-pipe head flanges where rusted out. I could see black exhaust trails flowing down the head. The three year old non-oem replacement catalytic converter (Walker 16090) had advanced rust issues on the flanges and the hanger was half rusted out. (I purchased this off Amazon and it had a 5 year warranty). They replaced it without any issue. Unable to remove generic O2 Sensor (BOSCH 15726) from the catalytic converter The three year old non-oem center pipe had a huge hole on the top of the resonator. Could not find any receipts for this one. Removing the exhaust stud There are many tricks to get this done. I had no access to welding equipment. I did not even bother with the EZ out tools because there was no way I was getting more torque then what was available before the bolt head snapped off. 1) Get a new hack saw blade and wrap one side with a towel so you can hold it comfortable. Use oil and cut the stud flush with the head if it is not already thatway. 2) Center punch the stud 3) Drill a pilot hole using a ¼ Colbalt drill bill. Drill to the depth that the other empty stud holes are at. You can measure this by dropping in the drill bit in an empty hole and wrapping tap around the bit as a marker. DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP. 4) Now drill the hole for a second time using a 5/16 Cobalt drill bit. I used a DeWalt DWA1220 and it cut like butter. 5) Now it is time to tap the hole. I used an IRWIN 10mm – 1.25 that picked up off eBay. THIS IS A CRITICAL TIME. You need to do this by hand. Since I broke the stud located in the worst spot I had to put the tap into ¼ 12 inch extension and then insert the extension into the hand tool. I will include a picture of this. At most I was able to turn the tap 1/16 of an inch before I had to pull it out and blow the metal shavings off with compressed air and re-oil the tap. This entire process from step 1 took me 6 hours over the course of a week to complete. Do not lose faith here. This is very slow going. If you break the drill bit or the tap in the stud hole you will need a new head. Careful work here is worth it. Do the math. I also chased the other three holes. I was very surprised to see all of the shavings that came out. Cover everything in anti-seize I went with new OEM studs and nuts instead of the old fused stud/bolt that I pulled off. For $20 I thought it was worth going new. The exhaust will go on exactly as it was taken off. When it comes to exhaust parts I am generally ok with aftermarket except the gaskets used between the y-pipe and the head. Use OEM. This is just my experience. This parts list worked perfectly for my 98 Subaru Outback with 2.2 engine. The 2.2 engine is a single port exhaust. If you have the 2.5 you have dual port exhaust on the head and will need a different Y-pipe and head exhaust gaskets. Parts List (1) Y-pipe Part# 2100-58201-2. Manufacture: AUTOPART International - eBay (2) Gasket between Y-Pipe and Engine. Part# 44011AC020. Manufacture Subaru - eBay (1) Gasket between Y-Pipe and front catalytic converter. Part# 2107-00288. Manufacture: AUTOPART International – Came with the y-pipe (2) Gasket between front and rear catalytic converter. Between center pipe and muffler Part# 31388. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) Flex joint donut gasket between rear catalytic converter and center pipe. Part# 31697. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) Spring Bolt Kit used to connect center pipe to rear catalytic converter. Part# 35412. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) O2 Sensor for rear catalytic converter. Part# 15726. Manufacture BOSCH - Amazon (1) Rear catalytic converter. Part# 16090. Manufacture Walker. (Warranty replacement for me) - Amazon (4) Exhaust Studs. Part# 800910550. Manufacture Subaru - eBay (4) Exhaust Stud Bolts. Part# 902370029. Manufacture Subaru - eBay The parts total was $255. I have 10 hours labor in this job. If I had a shop complete this work I am guessing the total would have been $1,000 to $1,400.
  8. I have a 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 73,xxx on it. Recently, it has started to hesitate badly while accelerating and will not go faster than 50 mph. I took it to the local dealer, who wants to charge $2,300 to replace the catalytic converter and front o2 sensor, saying it was plugged...but it hasn't been glowing red hot. The check engine light is on (not flashing) I already replaced the catalytic converter, front o2 sensor, ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs and the valve gaskets (oil came out when I pulled the spark plug cables) a couple months ago. The engine runs more smoothly with this more recent set of problems compared to when I first replaced the catalytic converter a few months ago. The catalytic converter would turn red hot then, which is why I replaced it. Any thoughts on what could be causing this problem? My apologies if this has been covered before on here...I'm new to the forum.
  9. I snapped off the threaded collar on the catalytic converter for the front oxygen sensor and am now trying to replace the whole catalytic converter from flange to flange. How do you get the top bolt off of the front flange between the cat and the header pipe?
  10. Hi Everyone!! I'm in need of some help. I live in California and I bought a 07 Impreza 2.5i (non turbo) about 2 years ago. After my first smog check the car's check engine and cruise control light came on. The cars performance has not changed or the gas mileage so I didn't pay attention to it. Now is time for another smog check and the car wont pass with the check engine light on (I tried reseting but the computer but OBDII picked up on it. too old of a trick). Well now I need to fix the problem but the emissions passed so I'm not sure whats going on. The computer is saying I need a new catalytic converter. Does anyone have any expirience with this problem? if so SHould I replace or clean the O2 sensors first and see what happens? should I use OEM or after market is fine for 02 sensors or catalytic converter? I want to be inform since I dont have any expirience with this problem. Thank you for your time
  11. Hi, I am new to this forum. I was hoping to get some advice on my new outback. Its a limited 5spd with 141k miles. the check engine light has come on and gone off a few times since i bought it, but now its been on for a while. i borrowed a code reader and it came up with the all too common p0420 code meaning the catalytic converter isn't operating at effienciency. It also showed code p1139 or "oxygen sensor heater curcuit malfunction" I was hoping this means that if i replace the o2 sensor the p0420 might go away too. I'm looking (and praying) for a cheap fix, i really dont wan to have to replace the cat. Has anyone else dealt with this issue or a similar issue? should i replace the o2 sensors or might these two codes indicate a deeper problem? any advice is welcome, thanks
  12. Help, when I have the heat on in my car, and I come to a stop, the car smells like burnt oil in the cabin. A friend told me it might be the head gasket as subarus have this problem... 130k automatic turbo... ANY THOUGHTS OR EXPERIENCES RELATED TO THIS WOULD BE APPRECIATED!
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