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Found 8 results

  1. Theres a few questions below. Please feel free to answer any or all of them. Any help is appreciated. I tried to organize the post below I put a lot of the details i know about this car in the intro thread, but some basic info will be included. 95 legacy, 231k, lots of work has been done to maintain the engine and tranny, however i inherited a mess of safety issues. I will bullet my concerns below to keep organized and an easy read. Hopefully this post will keep my spacing inbetween topics. 1)Alternator: just discovered today, but someone had clamped the wires into the terminal connectors with the insulation, this inevitably melted and corroded the wires underneath and caused a short, i jerry rigged it for now, but the terminal bolt is also stripped and will not come off, nor can it be tightened... The alternator is fine otherwise, my question is am i able to replace just the terminal on an alternator? Or am i looking at changing the whole unit :(... Not that its hard, but you gotta hate wasting money because someone sucked at life when installing the current one. 2)Popping noise front passenger wheel area when hitting harder bumps?: I have replaced the rack and pinion, and inner and outer tie rods. The cv axles look fine and have no excessive play or anything. I am between the control arm bushing, which look fine, but not that you can see it, or the ball joint, which looked fine until i caught a specific angle and saw that one side of it is completely bare... The question here is, if it isnt the ball joint, will the control arm bushing become dangerous if failed, it looks like a solid piece with no chance of catastrophic failure unless it becomes unbolted... The driver side ball joint by comparison looks fine and its claimed just that one was repaired within the last yr or 2... With the otherone being at least 40k miles. Maybe older... 3)Steering: The reason why i changed the rack and pinion is because it was shot. Wasnt leaking but there was a lot of free play in the steering, there was alot of free play just pulling on the tie rods themselves, there was definite stiffness in the steering that increased the more it was used throughout a driving session(i.e. lots of turns in short amount of time would cause very notable rise in stiffness). And on hard turns from stop or going slow caused alot of vibration and feedback in the steering... So new one is in and fine, most of the symptoms are gone, but occasionaly i still get that vibrating feedback... Occasionally... And its no where near as severe... My question here is, am i just experiencing some aire in the system and need to rebleed the power steering? Or am i getting a warning sign that the pump is going out? Any other thoughts or suggestions on this question would be appreciated. Thanks for your time... I appreciate any thoughts or advice.
  2. Hello all. 98 OBW 250K 2.2. Noticed the Front driver control arm rear bushing is leaking. I can buy the bushing for $23. Looks easy enough to swap. After 20 years on the salt filled roads of PA should I expect it to be rust welded in place and should I just replace the control arm? Can it really just be unbolted with control arm left on car? Link to the part below https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Bushing-Left-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Hydro-FEBEST-SAB-001L-OEM-20201-AC110/222331100045?epid=210174452&hash=item33c3f75b8d%3Ag%3AIdIAAOSwC-taHu~g&_sacat=0&_nkw=sab-001l&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
  3. I may or may not have been drifting around in some snow when I hit a curb inevitably screwing the control arm and leading rod. Ofcourse with my luck 89' GL control arms are a discontinued part. If anyone has a parts GL or any car that has a control arm compatible with mine and is willing to sell it to me I'd be immensely grateful.
  4. replaced control arms with Dorman pt #524-197. sez its correct fitment but unable to align rear wheels, seems its to big? Mechanic sez its the right replaced part judging by the old one... the online shop sez its the correct part, the alignment shop says its the wrong fit. too big?
  5. I am looking for new bushings for my lower control arm in a 92 Loyale. Lordco and Napa have nothing. Any ideas where to find some? Thanks. Located in Golden, BC
  6. Hello all, I have an '01 Legacy L 5-speed sedan, 93,000 miles, runs like a champ. Started getting bad noises from the front end passenger side every time I touched the brakes. Jacked the car up and took off the wheel: YIKES! The lower a-arm/control arm was completely rusted through right near the rear mounting. So, a few questions: 1) Should I buy a new or used part? 2) What bushings, hardware, etc., do I need to replace when I do the a-arm? 3) Anything else I should check out while I'm messing around down there? BTW, I checked the driver's side and it's quite solid and rust-free, so just bad luck on the passenger side. Thanks in advance for any tips, Jeff in Boston
  7. Hi folks, I just took my 1980 Brat in for a safety inspection (part of the process of importing it into Canada). I was told that my front passenger control arm is shot and needs to be replaced. I'm hoping for a second opinion as my understanding is that I just needed to replace the inner tie rod. Two questions: 1) What should I look for to determine if the control arm is shot (it's a Nevada car, rust free and in good shape - just drove across the country) 2) Where could I find a control arm if need be? I've emailed Mountain Tech Subaru and I'm waiting to hear back. This is somewhat time sensitive as I've got about 30 days to complete the importation, though I'm sure I could figure out an extension if need be. Thanks as always, look forward to hearing your advice!
  8. Im working on replacing the bushings on my 05 Outback. At first I had trouble removing the control arm from the ball joint (tried both removing the bolt from the pinch knuckle then a beating to the control arm and removing the cotter pin and trying the same beating with a hammer) but I had no luck. Then decided I might beable to finish the job by leaving it in. So I disconnected the control arm from everywhere but the ball joint and was able to remove the old torn busing and the metal ring around it. Now I am having trouble pushing in the new bushing. Does anyone have any ideas on getting the ball joint out? Im going to take both arms to a shop to get them pushed in. I need to have this done by thursday I will be driving back to college.
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