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Found 4 results

  1. This is my collection of measurements of the CTS. temp sensor ohms 14F 7000 - 11500 68F 2000-3000 122F 700-1000 Above are from the FSM. Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points. measured ohms temp 1990 used new dealer unit 77F - 2390 122F 1154 1098 185F - 400 190F 454 - More measurements from some runs in 2020 - Temps measured with a Fluke62 max+ IR thermometer. Voltages while running, connected to the ECU with a Fluke 77 Multimeter. Ohms after / before, while off, connected to ECU, same meter. temp ohms volts 79F 1108 2.73V - 1130 2.79V 77F 1139 2.81V 193F 259 .680V - 262 .714V - 268 .735V 192F 242 .652V
  2. Spring is here and I'm tinkering with my 1989 XT6. It sat in the garage for the winter, with a trickle charger and a weekly startup. I recently did a complete reseal of the H6, timing belts, water and oil pump, etc. It runs like a top, starting right up and idling perfectly after a cold start. I let it warm up to the point the fan kicks in, cycling the cooling system. When I shut it down and restart it hot, the idle RPMs shoot up to 1,500 or so and stays there, something is convincing the ECU to do this I guess. I cleaned the IACV, MAF, throttle linkage and all the wiring to them. I get 3.2 volts at the CTS wiring plug (I replaced the original with an injector harness). The CTS seems bad, it's 30 years old! I read an open circuit between the two conductors, tested when warm and then hot. I will check again when cold and hot, but an open is bad when it's hot and should be talking to the ECU. I'll try a new CTS first, they're not expensive. Questions... Should I get a $15 aftermarket CTS, or the good old NOS Subaru CTS for $40? The original lasted 30 years, so I'm leaning towards NOS Subaru. Any other suggestions on this issue? I can drive the car all day after a cold start, idling at a stop around 750 RPMs but if I shut it down and restart it hot after a few minutes, the idle zips up to 1,500 and is reluctant to settle down. I could check for vacuum leaks, but figured if this caused the high idle, it would occur even with a cold start.
  3. Hi Guys, the last two days in a row now I've had a really hard time starting my '87 GL. this morning it took me about 30 minutes of trying, and I finally got it after about 30 seconds with the starter going, and gently feathering the gas pedal juuuust right. It almost started and then stalled a few times before I finally got it. This is something that has happened VERY infrequently while I've owned this car, like four other times in the last 8 months, and now two days in a row. Right now I'm traveling around rural Alaska and so having the car start consistently and correctly is an absolute must. While I was trying to get it started this morning I took off the kick panel to look at the ECU and see if it was flashing a code that might help me diagnose what's going on here. It flashed a very short blip 6 times, then a pause, and 6 more blips, all very short. By my understanding this means the code is number 6, but my FSM doesn't have a code 6 listed. Anyone know what that might be? After looking through the forums for similar threads I think my culprit is probably the CTS. Or maybe the fuel injector? There's a very strong gas smell as I'm trying to start it up that makes me feel like it's getting flooded. Though once I get it up and running it runs perfectly fine, and I put a can of seafoam in the gas tank just a few tanks ago so I'm not sure if the injector would be stuck I'm debating putting in new spark plugs and replacing my fuel filter as well while I'm at it, any thoughts or suggestions on a reliable startup are welcome and appreciated.
  4. I have had no problems driving the car. Parked it in the garage last Friday. Monday morning, it won't start but it does turn over and cranks. I have checked the following things: -- spark, good in #1 cyl. Didn't check the rest -- fuel, appears to be getting fuel, didn't measure fuel pressure -- timing belt- took of the end covers. Belt is intact and has good tension. Didn't check timing marks. -- codes- only stored code is 32 o2 sensor I did notice that the radiator fans run continuously when the key is on. Is this normal? I'm thinking about replacing the coolant temp sensor. Can the CTS fail in a way that would prevent the car from starting?
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