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Found 211 results

  1. I have an 87 XT and an 86 BRAT with an EA82T and an EA81 respectively. If either of those motors dies on me catastrophically I'll have to do an engine swap. I know most people seem to like dropping EJ engines into these cars, but I would like to make them both diesel with subaru's EE20 diesel engine if I can. I know that its physical dimensions will work as it is slightly smaller than an EJ22. I was curious if anyone knows what kinda of transmission mods I'd have to perform?
  2. Hello! My ‘81 Brat GL 1800 has a vapor separator behind the passenger seat behind the bed panel. Mine is crumbling and is now fused together with epoxy. Hurray! I’m looking for a “new” one or I’m curious if there is part interchangeability with another car. It is listed as subaru part number “6420571001” or “642057100” Shown as Detail “O” in diagram. Thank you! My Brat thanks you. The environment thanks you!
  3. Hi folks, So I'm planning a road trip in my BRAT in a few weeks, and decided to do a little preventative maintenance. Had a messy oil leak and a some ticking, so I decided to replace seals and the paper gasket on the oil pump. I think we all know what happens when you remove an oil pump on these engines... Now I'm in the market for a new (I wish) or used pump. I've found two new and one used one in Greece (car.gr), 12 new in Columbia (mercadolibre.com.co) and one new one in Mexico. There are a couple of shady looking websites (sabrmarket.xyz; nsbamall.xyz) that claim to have them new, but don't respond to emails. I've tried just about every salvage yard I can find in the PNW and I'm coming up blank... Does anyone have a specific salvage yard that they know has one? Or maybe you'd be willing to part with one yourself? It's been three weeks of scouring the internet and I've exhausted every option I can think of. Next step is to see if a skilled machinist/welder friend of mine can weld it back together and then mill off the weld material. TL;DR: If anyone has an EA81 oil pump available (in any condition other than cracked) I would pay handsomely for it.
  4. UnorganizedMechanic

    Stoopid dog - 1984 Brat

    Thus begins the saga of rebuilding a seized engine, a seized water pump, broken bolts, registration woes, and the many other problems from sitting for years in who-knows-where. So far, it's living up to its namesake, but it's complete and in good condition.
  5. After about a year of searching for a good Brat for a project I stumbled upon a 1979 Brat on craigslist in Wyoming for $100, a deal too good to pass on. I convinced my uncle in law to make the three hour journey to go pick it up for me and drop it off at my grandpas property in Montana, which is where it currently sits until early May when I have a trip planned to go pick it up. The previous owner had intentions of rebuilding the EA71 and had the heads disassembled and a few other things torn down as well. A few weeks later I saw an ad for a 1983 Brat that was so rusty that the rear end was about to separate from the unibody. The car looks very deceiving but it has almost no drivers side floor, rocker panels and the back half of the bed had already been replaced with a patch panel. The Brat came with the rear jump seats, headrests, seat belts, and even the bags that cover the seat belts. The car came with a lot of other miscellaneous parts as the guy I bought it from has supposedly owned like 10 different Brats and this was the last one he had. My plan is to swap the EA81 with a Dual Carb set up I picked up into the '79 along with the 4 speed D/R for now until I can find a 5 speed D/R to swap into it.
  6. My '82 GLF coupe has a wheel shake at highway speeds that persists even after new tires, brakes, brake rotors, repacked bearings, tight suspension, rack, tie rods and new front axles. I noticed the output shafts on the trans (5MT) are pretty sloppy and have a lot of movement. The axles also make sounds like they're worn out when slow speed cornering even though they are new. Anybody dealt with this, and is it possible the loose trans output shafts can cause a bad wheel shake at high speeds? If that is it there is probably not much I can or will do to mend it.
  7. ...before it happened. Or at least it should have. Hindsight is 20/20. The 3rd eye harness is very close to the battery. Rats were hungry and ate some of the insulation off of the red and black wires in the harness. Went to pull the battery to use in a different car; took off the negative terminal first, and then wrecklessly set it down in front of the battery, with the positive terminal still connected. Before I could undo the positive terminal I heard a "snick" similar to a fuse popping. The negative terminal had brushed those exposed wires... either the red, or black, or both. Now the highbeams work, as well as the "beam" icon on the dash. But once the 3rd eye button is pressed, neither it or the "center light" icon on the dash work. The 3rd eye was funtional before, door and light. McBrat, the one who built the straight-axle '82 Brat, had a diagram on "Indys World . com" but unfortunately that site is no longer up. What kind of tests can I do? Did I blow a relay or worse the 3rd eye?
  8. Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus.
  9. I recently got an EA81 hydro motor thats missing the pushrods. The guy I bought it from had a near complete set of solid lifter pushrods(aluminum) he gave me for free and I'm working out a deal for a partial set of hydro pushrods(steel) right now. Can you mix and match the two in the same motor? If mixing and matching won't work, can I run a complete set of solid lifter pushrods in a hydro motor? I'm not sure which set will be easier to complete.. Josh
  10. I have an 86 BRAT that needs a new oil pump, now I have learned that these pumps are ridiculously hard to get these days. For now I am getting an original replacement pump, however odds are I will have to replace it again at some point in time. Lots of you will probably say to just engine swap an EJ in, but I want to keep this vehicle as stock as possible. So here is the question, does anyone know if it is possible to get an adapter for these pumps? You can get an adapter to relocate the filter, so I'm wondering if there is an adapter to get this engine to accept a different, aftermarket oil pump? Thanks in advance, long live the EA engines :).
  11. Alright, so after some research I'm about ready to start an engine rebuild of my ea81. I'm going to use this thread to keep track of my misadventures as I work through attempting to redo an engine that has little to no parts availability, so that you don't have to experience my pain. Videos of the rebuild will most likely end up on my youtube channel. First thing's first. The vehicle that is in need of a rebuild is none other than my rusted-out, ex-daily driver 1984 Subaru brat. I purchased this heap for 400 dollars when I was 14 years old. By purchased, I mean I worked 50 hours for a farmer during harvest at 8 dollars an hour and in exchange recieved the privilage of cleaning his pasture for him so I could liberate it. It was my first car and first project. I drug it out of said pasture here in the midwestern united states, checked the oil, fixed the mouse-eaten wiring to the fuel pump, aired up the 30 year old tires, and drove my new to me 92,000 mile car home and proceeded to park it for 2 years, occasionally starting it up. when I got my license I changed the oil and dailied it for about a year, just around my VERY VERY small town and occasionally going 30 miles to walmart for groceries. once I hit 93000 miles the engine started to make a knocking noise, and then it started not wanting to run. So I stopped making it. I figured id rather have bearings to replace than an entire engine. In the coming months, I realized just how poor parts availability for the ea81 is. but that's why I'm making this thread, right? Occasionally, rockauto has parts like the bearings available, but only occasionally, so I have been trying to find an alternative source thats a little more *ahem* reliable. I had heard that the ea81 shares the same main/rod bearings as the ea82 and er27. If anyone can confirm this I would greatly appreciate it. That's all I've got for now. I'll check back in once I start pulling the engine and know what all I need Ciao Subarute
  12. Alright, I have an 86 BRAT that needs a new oil pump. I was originally just going to reseal it, but I've since read that that is fairly pointless with these due to the fact that they warp or break upon removal. The odds that I could reseal this one anyway is pretty low due to the fact that it is in fairly rough shape. So can anyone tell me where to get a new oil pump? I know their rare and I haven't been able to find one. I checked rockauto and summit racing. Is there someone that could perhaps build me one custom? Any help is appreciated, also does anyone know if the pump from the EA71 will fit the EA81? Thanks.
  13. This may have been covered before and I just missed it, so if I did someone please just point me in the right direction... but I have been searching the forms for the past two hours and have come up with not a lot. So anyways, I was wondering what everyones favorite gear oils/lubes are for the EA81 4 speed trannys. So far it looks like Amsoil is a good choice from what I have read. I was hoping to be able to find something a little cheaper that I can get off the shelf that would work nearly as well. I know JesZek loves Motul 80W-90, but from what I have found online that stuff is insanely expensive for my thin wallet. Although Im sure it works like wonders. Has anyone tried Royal Purpel's 75W-90 synchromax? I know its just about as spendy as Amsoil, but I am curious if anyone has any experience with it so we can compare. Right now I am running the walmart supertech 75W-90 and i want to get something a little higher quality in there so I can make this little tranny last.. and shift easier in the winter months 5-speeders are more than welcome to give their experience as well! As so far it looks like they take the same oil/lube as the 4spds...
  14. Since completing new bearings and shafts on the front end I’ve got a squeak that seems to come from the front left. It is definitely rotational dependant and it comes/goes when there’s side load on the wheel. I initially thought it was the washer being fitted backwards. So I’ve rotated it and no change. I want this issue to be sorted! Any ideas or solutions welcome! Cheers Bennie
  15. Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?
  16. Hey Guys, I've been recommended to replace my ea81 distributor in my 1988 brumby to an electronic distributor (if I can find one) Symptoms: resistance while driving - jolting movement - intermittent miss. Has anybody else had this issue? Im looking for the exact part to replace but unsure where to find and what exactly to be looking for. can this play in the shaft cause the timing to be off? Thanks in advance. Drew
  17. I was able to tap the axle spindle out of the bearing housing... that was pretty easy! ”How To Keep Your Subaru Alive” does not mention that as an option. A Youtube video shows tapping the housing back in to the spindle. Can I do this without harming the CV joint?
  18. Hello USMB! Our beloved EA81 chassis is now well over 30-years-old and the parts supply is rapidly disappearing. Rubber parts, specifically, are mostly gone. In fact, RockAuto only lists the front windshield gasket and, as of this post, there is a single gasket left to order. My proposal is that we, as a community, band together like we did for the Gen-1 windshield gasket group buy, and have a run of parts made for the EA81 chassis. Right now, I'm thinking of four parts: BRAT/wagon/sedan/hatch front windshield gasket Wagon rear windshield gasket Coupe front/rear windshield gasket The first part is common across the listed body styles, so that makes perfect sense to me. I feel like the EA81 wagon is the most common body style still on the road, so it would make sense to target that application as well. I'm not an expert and have done exactly zero research on that, but it's my gut feeling. Finally the coupe has unique front and rear windshield gaskets, so it would need its own specific parts. Based on the previous group buy, I would estimate the cost per gasket to be between $50-80. These would be BRAND NEW rubber parts, not some 30-year-old NOS that has been sitting on a dusty shelf for the last three decades. So, who is interested? The minimum order will likely be around 50-units, so I'd hope we can get close to that number of members committed to buying. If you have any questions, comments or general input, please reply below and I will update this post with the usernames of interested parties.
  19. el_freddo

    Redback Brumby (aka BRAT)

    "I'm El_Freddo, and this is my Brumby Story:" Ok, time I "came clean" about the Redback Brumby. This is how I picked her up about two years ago. AFAIK I'm the third owner: The previous owner was a bit of a talker/player. I went out to check her out as a bit of a tease for me, it was local enough for the drive - I've always wanted a targa top since Sunnie the Brumby that we got for my mother inlaw. I would've loved a blue one but beggers can't be choosers. The owner said a fella was coming up from Melbourne that weekend so I bid him good luck, he was asking too much for my liking. 6 weeks later it was still there so I made an offer - he still played a hard card so I told him to offer it to the other guy at the price he mentioned and I let it be. Less than 5 mins later he called me back and said deal. As you can see from the pic above there's some front guard damage, pity, it's pretty straight otherwise! The engine wasn't working - reckoned it just stopped one day on the way to work and has been sitting like this for 6 months. I thought blown HGs straight up - empty radiator and creamy oil told the story. In the tub it had a rubber mat that concealed some foundation sand/packing sand (the orange stuff) that had held the moisture and rusted the middle of the tray. The main areas where rust shows up were pretty decent which I was happy about. After getting her home she moved around the yard a few times before making it into the shed for some work. Family photo: First up was pulling the engine - pretty easy in these things! I had to entertain dad as a decoy for his surprise 65th - he sat and watched for most of it :/ Once on the stand we drained the "oil": Second bucket: ~15 litres of water and oil in total. Now thinking major head gasket and a possible engine replacement. Continued stripping the engine before jumping to conclusions though. Heads removed, such a pretty sight (not!). Never seen this before: This was the culprit - and the previous owner's story checked out at this point: That's a Welch plug that dropped out, dumping the entire contents of the radiator into the engine, stopping things pretty quickly I'd imagine! After getting busy with work and other things (4wd trips etc) Dad came up and put the long block back together for me while I was at work - this saved me loads of time! Once the engine was all back together I got it running - it blew a lot of blue smoke and I shat bricks. It was also running as rough as guts. Turned out that I needed to adjust the valve clearances better than I did - it was running on two cylinders, just. Once all 4 were back online it blew more blue smoke. Not happy Jan! This finally cleared up and ran without any smoke. Very stoked. One of the things we had to do was remove rust from the bore. This was a cheap build for a daily cruiser - so instead of a rebuild or even a hone and new rings we hedged our bets and went this way. No1 cylinder had a couple of small pits at the very top of the cylinder so we left it this way and ran with it. Now it was time to look at other parts of the vehicle. Redback got her name when I was working on the rear end pulling drive shafts off that had probably never been removed before. While hammering away a redback dropped out from behind one of the rear wheels. Sorted that one quickly! It wasn't the last - I think there were five all up from memory, so a name was born for this beast. The rear bearings were an unknown and seemed rumbly and one of the rear brakes was leaking. So after a small investment in parts: This was done: Rear end being worked on: Rear diff was out as well, swapped in for one that leaked less instead of swapping seals! Home made tool for bearing retainer nut removal: All coming back together well: "New" rear drums were sourced from one of the parts bombs, the originals had a decent 2-3mm groove dug into them! The new ones barely looked like they'd been used! Then it was off to a mate's place for some detailing - 4 hours of degreaser and pressure washing! Only got a phone pic of that, it's not been uploaded At some point, either in the transit there or back I managed to get a stone chip in the windscreen, just a small one but right in the driver's view. Again, stole a windscreen from a parts bomb. This one cleaned up very well - I was stoked. This also gave me the opportunity to replace the old hard windscreen rubber and tackle the rust that I knew was under the front right corner: Putting the windscreen back in - always fun. Had to look it up on ausubi as to how I did it last time on Sunnie the Brumby. Once that was read the windscreen was in within 20 minutes: A new heater hose above the water pump was sourced - I use another unit from a Toyota Camry, just trim to size: A few other things along the way and it was time for a roadworthy inspection: ^ I didn't like the original rims, different offset and to me they didn't look that great on this brumby. I also had a set of black sunnies in the shed with my snow tyres on them which easily swayed my decision. I reckon they look way better even if they're only 13 inch and don't fill the guards. So she didn't pass first go. A few excited rookie mistakes: 1/ Didn't fill the wash bottle 2/ Didn't bolt down the passenger's windscreen wiper arm, so that didn't move! 3/ Apparently I had a front indicator that was blown - I didn't find it on my check so dunno where they got that from. and 4/ worn front uni joint on the tail shaft. I fixed the other easy little issues straight up, had to order in the uni joint so got two and did them both at the same time. I also smashed my thumb pretty good doing this - only now is the damaged nail almost grown out about 6 months after the event! Once those things were sorted the RWC was issued and I was off to rego. Vicroads now make it nearly impossible to get an appointment! I was pissed that I didn't get one before the weekend, but got one Monday and had to take some time off work to do it - just frustrating! The blessing was that my birthday/christmas/birthday pressie rocked up in the mail at M&D's (home base for important mail!) - so I was able to use them during the rego process, saving me some extra coin on not needing new plates: At Vicroads just after rego was granted: Back at home: Used her for driving to work, loved it! Didn't have to worry about rain (I'd been on the scooter prior to this!) And of course, hanging with the family members: Since this pic Dad borrowed Redback for a few months. I missed the old girl, the scooter's fun but there's just something about a brumby, plus it can do over 55kmp/h without trying hard. It's easier to speed in that Ruby Scoo IMO. While Dad had her M&D headed overseas and I had a conference close to their place, so my wife and I crashed there and I drove to the conference in Redback. The issue that came up after frying a few alternators (dad went through this issue) was a severe lack of performance - the exhaust would become blocked at certain levels of acceleration. This got worse until I was stuck on the way to the conference travelling at 60km/h, and that was before hills! Not fun! Pulled another Y pipe from the parts bomb and that sorted it. This wasn't an ideal fit due to some spacers on my EA81 for the ERG system that wasn't on the earlier year parts bomb, but it works and Redback goes very well for an EA81! I've also got to fix the choke - dunno what's wrong with it but it doesn't work properly. The carb could probably do a with a rebuild too, she runs too rich overall for my liking. I've solved the slop in the gear stick with the classic slot and bolt arrangement: The Welch plugs were sorted by Dad's idea - massive grub screws/threaded plugs: They've worked a treat! I've been hunting for a bullbar - found one in Talem Bend, South Australia, got a mate to pick it up for me. So I need to roadtrip to the city of churches to pick that up soon. I've since found an ideal bar that fits the bill for what I want. If all goes well the first one purchased might end up on Sunnie the Brumby if it's better than the one already on her. I've also been tossing up the idea of a lift kit, but it really comes down the right price at the right time - I don't want to go all out like Ruby Scoo lift/tyres. One thing I would love to do is make the engine run with the stock L series MPFI system. I'm a true believer in EFI over carb setups. I don't know if I can do this due to space constraints without converting the auxiliaries to the EA82 setup - not an easy task unless you've got the EA81 turbo brackets and crank pulley. Also an AWD gearbox would be great. Will have to build one up and fit it in at some point. EA casing an EJ gearbox can be done without issue over here with a dual range gearbox. Cruise and remote central locking would be sweet and I'd like to add a neat little tacho, oil pressure and coolant temp on the steering column in a manner that doesn't cover the other gauges. It's just a case of time and money for those things - after all this is meant to be a cheap build! Cheers Bennie
  20. So I had these pics posted in the "longtravel outbacks" thread. but I thought that since this is really an EA81 build, I would start my own thread. This is T-bone T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So here is the old EA 81 rear setup. Tired torsions and extra plateing and liftblocks, along with teh already low hanging EA81 diff, make the rump roast of this guy the biggest problem. Breakin axles and stubs....can't find any more good axles, so it's time to go. IMG_2594 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had thought about using an early Leggy or Forester setup.......but that would require full on strut mounts in teh back...which woud be lots of fab that there isn't room for. So I'm using the entire rear setup from an 03 Outback. Fitted with a Welded spider, 3.9 internal stub diff. Working on finding a VLSD for longer term road trip use. But for wheeling trips it's gotta be linclon locked for sure. IMG_3451 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I modified this subframe to have equal length lower arms....hopefully better travel range possible once I get the right shock setup. For now it will use stock 03 outback shocks. IMG_3455 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3445 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3442 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3461 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the projected "full stuffed" point. IMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the forward mounting of the subframe. Built mounting off of the old EA81 6" lift block (there is an EA81 torsion tube section between the body and the blocks) IMG_3486 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3487 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting near ride height with wheels on. IMG_3489 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is resting on it's own shocks. Literally it's just sitting on them....haven't actually made the shock mounts yet. Also need to finalize the Front trailing arm mounts and the sliders for them that will tie into the front/center subframe I have built. IMG_3491 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  21. Hi All! I'm still having trouble starting my 83 Brat GL, I thought it was weather related during the winter months here in NYC, but it's still happening in this hot, hot summer! I bought a $300 800 cca Odyssey battery, changed all the cables, and the car does eventually start, it's just very finicky from a fresh start. I was at a parts house last night and a guy heard me having the issue and said there is something called a pickup coil under the distributor, or that is part of it. Does that make any sense to anyone? Any help on this greatly appreciated. Once the engine is started and warms up, restarting it isn't an issue. It's just the fresh start. Thanks again!
  22. Hi guys Have inherited a 1990 brumby from my grandfather who passed last november. I absolutely have fallen head over heals in love with it. The 'brumble beast' had done 305 000 kms and has bugger all rust in it. Engine has been tinkered with by subaru 'specialists'. Ive noticed all the hitachi carb haters out there and I must say I love them! I have no mechanical experience at all but am very mechanically minded. I am determined to keep the hitachi however doing away with all the emissions garb. You guys have great pics etc however I'm in Australia and everything is backwards lol. Anyhow I'll post some pics and your guidance would be fab! Zeb
  23. On my my way home from Mexico I found this guy on the side of the road... So i drove it back it back to Canada! let the fun begin. the good: almost everthing is there, jump sets and everything. No real body damage and no bad body rust from what I can tell. runs! Shifts pretty good(4spd) the bad: Torn cv’s lots of caked oil, Mexican wiring oil sender dosnt work driver side strut top is completely torn(found this once I got it home) leakying front main seal bad rad fan Truck bed leaks into cabin(when it rains) Plan: since I’ve been building my crazy off road poptop gl wagon, I thought it’d make this more of a daily driver. bushings upgrades 2 inch lift 215/75/15 Baja bfg on yota drilled 6 lug. camber/caster plates longer ish dual rate suspension Electric swap?!?!
  24. The time has finally come for the Ignition Lock to get stuck in my Brat. It was already in a state where the key could be removed in any position and while driving around. Currently it is stuck in the Run position, and can start the car, but will not turn back to shut the car off. Is it possible to remove this lock cylinder? I have a parts GL Brat with a good lock cylinder in it to swap out if so. 1985 Brat Gl (tilt column steering)
  25. I installed a new Spanish Webber on my 83 GL two years ago and it ran great for a while. But around 6 months ago it started stalling when I turn left with the clutch pushed in. I recently put in a fuel pressure reg when it started flooding but I am still having the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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