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Found 192 results

  1. Hi folks, So I'm planning a road trip in my BRAT in a few weeks, and decided to do a little preventative maintenance. Had a messy oil leak and a some ticking, so I decided to replace seals and the paper gasket on the oil pump. I think we all know what happens when you remove an oil pump on these engines... Now I'm in the market for a new (I wish) or used pump. I've found two new and one used one in Greece (car.gr), 12 new in Columbia (mercadolibre.com.co) and one new one in Mexico. There are a couple of shady looking websites (sabrmarket.xyz; nsbamall.xyz) that claim to have them new, but don't respond to emails. I've tried just about every salvage yard I can find in the PNW and I'm coming up blank... Does anyone have a specific salvage yard that they know has one? Or maybe you'd be willing to part with one yourself? It's been three weeks of scouring the internet and I've exhausted every option I can think of. Next step is to see if a skilled machinist/welder friend of mine can weld it back together and then mill off the weld material. TL;DR: If anyone has an EA81 oil pump available (in any condition other than cracked) I would pay handsomely for it.
  2. I'm looking at this oil leak I have. Nothing major but it leaves a spot on the driveway and cruds up my engine bay (rust protection right?). The leak seems to be coming from behind the crank pulley and dripping down the front. It does leave some residue on the underside of the air filter housing. Anyone have any tips, tricks, videos, diagrams or such before I dive into this?
  3. Hey guys an introduction first. As of 3 weeks ago I'm the new owner of the Desert Fox! 1984 Subaru DL Wagon. I just replaced the throttle (accelerator) cable as it was binding up during the beginning of the pedal travel. Heres what happened afterwards. Let sit for about 30 minutes because the engine had probably flooded from me fiddling with the throttle getting the new cable on. Went out and started it without pumping the pedal at all. Car started but idled high, revved it up. Let it run a minute. Blipped the pedal and idle dropped down. I shut the car off. Started it again without pumping the pedal at all and it idled high. Let it run for a minute again. Blipped the throttle and it dropped down again. I shut it off. Pumped the pedal to the floor once, released, and started it. Idled high again. Blipped the pedal and it stayed where it was as far as idling. Let it run for a bit. Shut it down. Got out and adjusted the nuts on the cable sheath. Thinking that might have something to do with it? Tried to start without touching pedal. No start. Feathered the pedal as I cranked. No start. Fully depressed pedal and released. No start. Fully depressed pedal 3 times and released. No start. Adjusted the cable sheath nuts back to where they were originally. My normal starting process is pedal to the floor once and release and it starts right up. Even when is 20°F out its 30 today. Same thing with the no start. I'm going to let it sit overnight and try it tomorrow unless anyone has an idea.
  4. 22 degrees forecast for when I plan to start my ‘84 Webered EA81. I have never started this carb in weather so cold. 500 miles from home, with an old battery, also. Any suggestions for a cold weather start?
  5. Two electrical connectors on my factory air conditioning drier. What is their function ?
  6. After about a year of searching for a good Brat for a project I stumbled upon a 1979 Brat on craigslist in Wyoming for $100, a deal too good to pass on. I convinced my uncle in law to make the three hour journey to go pick it up for me and drop it off at my grandpas property in Montana, which is where it currently sits until early May when I have a trip planned to go pick it up. The previous owner had intentions of rebuilding the EA71 and had the heads disassembled and a few other things torn down as well. A few weeks later I saw an ad for a 1983 Brat that was so rusty that the rear end was about to separate from the unibody. The car looks very deceiving but it has almost no drivers side floor, rocker panels and the back half of the bed had already been replaced with a patch panel. The Brat came with the rear jump seats, headrests, seat belts, and even the bags that cover the seat belts. The car came with a lot of other miscellaneous parts as the guy I bought it from has supposedly owned like 10 different Brats and this was the last one he had. My plan is to swap the EA81 with a Dual Carb set up I picked up into the '79 along with the 4 speed D/R for now until I can find a 5 speed D/R to swap into it.
  7. So I got myself a 1994 Subaru Brat (RHD) with an EA81 engine and in the process of swapping in a Legacy Twin Turbo.. :-) Would any of you fine people have a wiring diagram for the Brat (Is it the same as the 1800 gl?) Thanks in advance John
  8. Hello again. I ha e a ea81 1.8 engine sitting in my driveway. I removed this engine because i could not get cylinders 2 and 4 to fire. I did replace the engine head gaskets and cleaned the valves in headers and put it back together. When i installed engine back in car i was not able to get it to fire correctly. I have new wires spark plugs rotor and cap and nogo. I did pull the wires from cylinders 2 and 4 and did see a spark in them. Obly reason i know these two cylinders are not working is because the engine will have a terrible shake to it and by plasing my hand below the header were exhaust goes only one side was hot. Could it be that i have a bad distributor even tho i see sparks coming from wires 2 and 4? Thanks.
  9. Hi all, thanks in advance for any tips you can offer. I’m not an experienced auto mechanic, but I can follow directions, work with tools, etc. I have a 1984 GL wagon, 4sp w dual range 4wd, 180k miles, that I acquired from a neighbor for cheap. It’s somewhat beat up, but I really like it- if you’re here I’m sure you understand the appeal. I’m lucky enough to live in Portland so Subaru parts and shops are relatively plentiful. I am willing to spend a little more than is rational, but don’t want to get too carried away. The car came to me with a bad engine knock. I tore the motor down and found the #2 rod bearing was very dead. Crank and cam look pretty bad, I’m guessing they’re irreparable, and there were bits of bearing in the oil pan. The block looks good, considering- a couple of the main bearings were a bit beat up, but didn’t seem to have spun or otherwise marred their seats. I don’t have the experience to do the ej swap, nor is the car clean enough to put that kind of money into. My initial plan was to find a used ea81 to plunk in there, but I’m not having much luck finding a viable runner. Now I’m wondering how these engines do after being rebuilt after rod bearing failure. Is it even worth looking into sourcing parts and having the block bored/decked? If I’m going to go to all the trouble, should I just start with a $300 junkyard engine that probably didn’t have as big a problem as mine did? The other option I see is to sell off the Weber and other decent parts for about what I have into the car, and start over with a different car. I really like the ea81 wagons and definitely want one, and am not afraid of doing some work to make one go. What do you recommend I do? Thanks again!
  10. I have a 1985 Subaru Brat 3-speed automatic. My brakes were trash and squealed really bad so I replaced the pads and rotors and had to replace the calipers too because the Piston wouldn't go back in. Got those installed and went to bleed the brakes and the pedal goes straight to the floor. It doesn't build any pressure at all. I attempted to bleed the brakes anyway but like I said it doesn't build pressure and if you pump in a bunch of times in a hole to the floor and open the bleeder valve brake fluid just dribbles out. Figured I somehow messed up the brake master cylinder so I got a new one and installed it and no change at all. I bled the master cylinder and the calipers multiple times as well and it still just dribbles out. I know brake booster uses vacuum, so I think it has something to do with that because, when I hit the brake pedal air gets sucked into the carburetor. Also when the vehicle is running if I hit the brake it stutters and almost dies. I don't see any drips or anything from the brake lines, calipers, or MC. Any ideas what could be wrong? Do I need a new brake booster? I'm honestly kind of stumped.
  11. Hello USMB! Our beloved EA81 chassis is now well over 30-years-old and the parts supply is rapidly disappearing. Rubber parts, specifically, are mostly gone. In fact, RockAuto only lists the front windshield gasket and, as of this post, there is a single gasket left to order. My proposal is that we, as a community, band together like we did for the Gen-1 windshield gasket group buy, and have a run of parts made for the EA81 chassis. Right now, I'm thinking of four parts: BRAT/wagon/sedan/hatch front windshield gasket Wagon rear windshield gasket Coupe front/rear windshield gasket The first part is common across the listed body styles, so that makes perfect sense to me. I feel like the EA81 wagon is the most common body style still on the road, so it would make sense to target that application as well. I'm not an expert and have done exactly zero research on that, but it's my gut feeling. Finally the coupe has unique front and rear windshield gaskets, so it would need its own specific parts. Based on the previous group buy, I would estimate the cost per gasket to be between $50-80. These would be BRAND NEW rubber parts, not some 30-year-old NOS that has been sitting on a dusty shelf for the last three decades. So, who is interested? The minimum order will likely be around 50-units, so I'd hope we can get close to that number of members committed to buying. If you have any questions, comments or general input, please reply below and I will update this post with the usernames of interested parties.
  12. 1984 4WD GL, I need to replace the axle shafts, front. 200,000 miles, seems like a good idea to replace the front wheel bearings and seals while I am at it. What else should I do on this job?
  13. I have a bent valve in an 85 Brat A/T. I want to replace it but I can't find any place that specifically has the Large valve. Rock Auto says it has it but i looked and the 82 Brat in their catalog uses the same valve part number. And correct me if I'm wrong but pre 84 had smaller valves... I just don't want to buy it pull the head and find out its the wrong one.
  14. Gloyale

    Wheelin video. Small clip

    Hey qwanted to post a link to my last wheelin trip to browns camp. My camera batteries died (like wouldn't charge died) so I had to rely on others to film. My buddies wife got this one on one of the hairier sections of firebreak 5 at browns camp OR. Facebook video....sorry to those that don't FB https://www.facebook.com/Unnefer.and.Iset/videos/vb.100000313806507/1829128547107588/?type=2&video_source=user_video_tab
  15. I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission.
  16. 3-43 7. Hydraulic Valve Lifter 1. Replacement The hydraulic valve lifter can be replaced even when the engine is mounted on the vehicle as follows: 1. Disconnect both the blow-by and PCV hoses 2. Revove the valve rocker cover. 3. Using the special tool (Socket Wrench: 899988607), loosen the valve rocker ASSY and remove the push rod. 4. Raise the vehicle body with a jack and suppor it on a safety stand. 5. Remove the nuts which secure the front engine mounting and slightly raise the engine using a floor crane. 6. Remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil completely. Detach the oil pan. 7. Remove the hydraulic valve lifter. Use of a magnet facilitates removal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3767-ea81fig-3-45-a-5678/ Fig. 3-45 A5-678 8. The valve lifter can be installed in reverse order. 2. Adjustment 1. Perform adjustment in cold condition [coolant temperature 20 to 40 deg. C (68 deg. to 104 deg. F)]. 2. Retighten cylinder head nuts and bolts previously if necessary. 3. Adjust hydraulic valve lifter with the following procedures: a. Perform adjustment in two (2) sequences. Sequence (I) -------------------- Position #1 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust the valve lifters for intake and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder, for exhaust valve on #3 cylinder and for intake valve on #4 cylinder. Sequence (II)---------------- Position #2 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust all the others, i.e. for intake and exhaust valves on #2 cylinder, for intake valve on #3 cylinder and for exhaust valve on #4 cylinder. b. Raise up the bend of lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3768-ea81fig-3-46-a5-700/ Fig. 3-46 A-700 <Valve opens. Screw by approx 4 turns> c. Leave it with the valves opened for approx. 15 minutes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3769-ea81fig-3-47-a5-701/ Fig 3-47 A-701 <Leave for approx 15 minutes then pressure chamber volume becomes minimum. Valve moves to close a little.> d. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of valve. This condion is called "Zero Point". http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3770-ea81fig-3-48-a5-702/ Fig. 3-48 A5-702 <Valve closes Zero point Unscrew gradually> e. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by 1.5 turns http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3771-ea81fig-3-49-a5-703/ Fig. 3-49 <Hydralic valve lifter adjusted Unscrew by 1.5 turns> f. Tighen lock nut, and bend the lock washer.
  17. Blast, double post. Moderator, please delete.
  18. Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344
  19. I have an 85 brat that I bought a gasket kit for. When I replace the head gaskets I accidentally adjusted one of the valves. Total stupidity on my part but nothing I can do about it now. I tried to fix it by using the adjustments . 01 for the intake and .014 for the exhaust. I didn't realize at the time that mine wasn't the solid lifters but the hydraulic ones. I know now they're the hydraulic ones because they have the little locks for the nuts. Now that the engine is back together and ready to start it runs terribly and ticks. I haven't ran it more than 30 seconds because I figured what I did. So my question is what do I adjust the valves to for the hydraulic ones?
  20. I have an 85 Brat that's a 3AT that I've almost finished putting back together after head gasket replacement. I got a new radiator off of Rock Auto. My question is is there a difference between the radiator in Auto and manual or are they the same. It looks like my OEM one except the radiator cap hole is bigger and the inside of the reservoir looks different. I'm making sure it still works as the auto trans cooler. I have pics if needed. Link to radiator: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1985,brat,1.8l+h4,1267747,cooling+system,radiator,2172
  21. Looks like the two sides could be joined with bolts. Repair, or replace?
  22. ajslacker

    Ea81 Help!

    My oil pump shattered and it's stuck in the engine. Here's the back story: I was replacing the oil pump in my 85 Brat when, while removing the old one from the engine, I turn around for a second and my dumb friend decides to use a mallet to get it out. The oil pumps are know to shatter and naturally it did. Unfortunately the worse case scenario came true and part of it is stuck in the engine still. It will spin but refuses to come out. I've tried everything. I even drilled a screw in it so I had something to pull. Any suggestions?? Pics attached https://ibb.co/foXbjx https://ibb.co/hbnnrc https://ibb.co/dMoABc https://ibb.co/mPqe4x
  23. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3765-ea81-do-not-adjust-valves-sticker/ A sticker on my valve cover says "Don'd Adjust Valve Clearance". The engine is at 160,000 miles. What should I do?
  24. Duplicate...Moderator, please delete this.
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