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Found 194 results

  1. STOLEN 1987 Subaru GL wagon. Silver color, EA82 with 5 speed D/R. Stolen Oct. 17th in North Seattle. WA plate AHR0543. The back seat (bench type) was removed. The image is from before the 'Quick-n-Easy rack' and tent install. The roof top tent is a 2 person TEPUI. Travel cover is black. Large black plastic wind deflector in front of tent. The tent fabric is the silver colored all weather, 4 season canopy. I made a larger rainfly that fits over the stock rainfly. Very unique appearance because the custom rainfly is supported by tent poles with shock cord to make long horizontal poles. The tent had defects from the factory. One problem was the holes for the stock rainfly support rods were drilled horizontally. I had to drill vertical holes so the rod anchor places have 2 sets of holes. The ladder side floor has two 4" diameter port holes with threaded covers in the corners for a heating system. Half the heating system was in the tent. The tubes to convey dry heat are 2" diameter stainless steel bellows type tube (very rare tube ). Vehicles all over Seattle are stolen with shaved keys so homeless persons can have vehicles to commit crime and live in. It is mobile family dwelling. The homeless population is immune to prosecution. They park on the streets and can not be towed. If my vehicle is trashed, I will have EA82 and GL spare parts available: engine, heads, case bolts, lash adjusters, mirrors to list a few. If you see this vehicle in western Washington, please call the Seattle Police Dept. non-emergency line 206 625-5011 with regards to incident # 2020-296202 Thanks ahead of time, Silverback
  2. I have an 87 XT and an 86 BRAT with an EA82T and an EA81 respectively. If either of those motors dies on me catastrophically I'll have to do an engine swap. I know most people seem to like dropping EJ engines into these cars, but I would like to make them both diesel with subaru's EE20 diesel engine if I can. I know that its physical dimensions will work as it is slightly smaller than an EJ22. I was curious if anyone knows what kinda of transmission mods I'd have to perform?
  3. I’m picking up a gen 3 Loyale wagon 5spd 4wd. 375k on the chasis and 150k motor from a wrecked 2WD. It’s been driven daily by the owner for the past month since the motor swap. My plan is to get it ready and reliable for driving up Mt Hood and snow this winter. I mean it already sounds decently reliable while the guy’s been taking it down logging roads solo. But I’d rather work on things now while the weather’s decent to work outside and the lifts aren’t running. I’ve never had a vehicle at this mileage before. Seems a lot of things can wear out in 375k miles. What are some good preemptive measures and maintenance to should take care of? What are some things that could shockingly live forever without touching? Maintenance that’s likely to have happened by 375k? (Not that there’s any way of really knowing) Leaks some oil but seems fine if it stays topped up. How concerned should I be about the head gasket? Motor is only at 150k. Power steering is out but still drives okay. After reading some threads it sounds like some people just drive it and don’t bother fixing. Probably want to avoid any Austin Powers parking scenarios. The struts could be better. It looks like replacing them with stock KYB will raise the rear end. Any remedy here? Or it’s a non issue? Not too worried if that’s an advantage when loaded down. Otherwise it starts, handles, and stops fine. Should I replace springs? Seems like that isn’t a common thing to do around here The A/C works so that should take care of defrosting. Even the rear window defrost works. The heater functions but could be better. The 4WD works. Love the light up display when you hit that Fire Torpedos button! Has (used) snow tires on it already. Debating on buying newer snow tires or all terrains. Eventually I want to do a 2” lift, auxiliary battery, extra lighting. That is, if it doesn’t blow up before I can get to any of that. Priority is to get the thing reliable for the mountain. I have tools but haven’t done any serious car work in a long while and only worked on motorcycles for the past few years. I’m capable but compared to bikes I have a feeling this thing will be more ...involved. So what should I get to work on?
  4. I am about to attempt an engine rebuild on my 87 3Door and realized how grossly unprepared I am. It would of course be much cheaper and easier if I could find and already built engine or even a short block to buy, but I am having zero luck with that search. My questions for you guys are... Do you know anywhere I can either buy another engine already rebuilt or a short block to help with cost and labor? Are there any tips you have for a first time engine fiddler? I have had my car for several years and have done loads of work on her, but after blowing the head gaskets this last time, and getting blow-by in the engine, I decided it was finally time for an overhaul. Any help is mega appreciated!
  5. Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus.
  6. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    A better oil Filter, for the EA82

    Oil and Oil Filters Since New, my beloved subaru "BumbleBeast" has been using 20W~50 motor oil on its EA82 engine, (that SAE grade is for our warm caribbean climate) but in mineral form; mainly from Chevron and Motul; and I changed its oil and Filter at the proper interval, around 3,000 miles. When it became impossible to find an original Subaru oil filter on local stores anymore... ...I used the Recommended oil filter in Purolator brand, for the EA82 engine, which is the Purolator L-24457 Sometimes it wasn't easy to obtain it locally, so I used the Equivalent with slightly larger body, Purolator L-20064 However, larger body means less oil pressure on the system, so with time, I migrated to the Purolator L-10028 When newer oil technology came, with the development of Synthetic motor oils, I chose to use Valvoline's "MaxLife" motor oil, which is formulated to be used in Higher mileage vehicles; I adopted it since year 2012 (despite that I've read about it long years ago on magazines, it took some time to reach my Country and more time to lower its price on the local market) firstly I tried "MaxLife" in ATF form on my Wife's car with excellent results, then in Power Steering fluids on her car and mine; finally I switched to this "MaxLife" in Motor Oil also... ...circa 2014, which was a hard year (for me), with big decisions to take... one of them was to use this oil on extended periods of time, which I wasn't accustomed and I was afraid to try, but I gave it a go, and seems like the hardest part was to obtain a long life, synthetic oil filter to go with this oil. It doesn't make any sense to pour a long life motor oil, with a standard cardboard filter, isn't it? So, after searching, studying and analyzing my options; I found a small, synthetic oil filter with long lifespan, designed to be used extended times, and it had very Good opinions and reputation online, in web sites and forums dedicated to motor oils and filters; but this filter is much smaller than the oil filter recommended for the Subaru EA82 engine; which according to modern lubrication standards, is Better, as a smaller bodied filter aids to keep a higher oil pressure in the system, which is ideal for this engine and its exigent hydraulic lifters... you know. Here is the Oil Filter I chose, compared side to side with the older one which I used for long years: The Napa Platinum 41394 is made by Wix and is pretty small, but satisfies the requirements of the EA82 engine. Here are the Specs: here, you can see how this small oil filter, fits on the EA82's oil pump Base: And, believe it or not; I've been changing the Motor Oil on my Subie's EA82 on a Yearly basis, due to two reasons, money is tight and I am not using it so hard as it was used before 2014, since my small family and I, moved from the big city, to a small mountain high town, in the rural Honduras. I've been changing this synthetic "MaxLife" 20W~50 motor oil along the Napa 41394 synthetic oil filter, every December, since 2014, and the Subie runs flawlessly, no problems so far, despite it surpasses 400,000 miles; also the old used oil still comes out pretty good. Kind Regards. ________________________________________________ Extra info: if you can not see the Photos I shared from Photobucket, you can add to your web browser, an extension named "Photobucket embed fix" wich will let you see the photos, flawlessly. Greetings.
  7. I've got an idea I want to investigate, but was wondering if anyone had any experience removing the bumper skin from the early EA82 front or rear bumpers. There are brackets bolted in the corners little clips on the skin that match up to cutouts on the bumper frame, but I would need 12 arms to compress all the clips at once. My only EA82 FSM is for the 1987 model year, so not helpful on the early bumpers. Thanks!
  8. Hello, I have an 86 wagon with an in-progress SPFI swap from an 88. The donor car didn’t have a tachometer, oil pressure gauge, and a few other accessories. I’ve got it to start in the 86, although I need to make some idle adjustments, but figured I’d get the important gauges and warning lights to work before I ran the engine too much. The donor was was equipped with an idiot light for oil pressure which ran from what I believe is the oil pressure switch. The 86 wagon’s original engine had a larger unit which is just over from the plugged hole where the oil pressure switch would go, which I believe is the oil pressure unit. In my attempts to get the gauge and idiot light to both work I ran the wire from the oil pressure switch to the idiot light and to the gauge, which made the light work fine but the gauge would go all the way up when the key was in IG and slowly fall to zero. I then removed the oil pressure switch and installed the larger unit into the SPFI engine and connected the wire for the idiot light and gauge to it like before, and neither the light or the gauge worked. I know the gauge and light both worked in the 86 wagon before the original engine was removed and I know the idiot light in the 88 worked before the donor engine was removed. For me to have both the idiot light and oil pressure gauge working, can the larger unit work both? If so how do I wire them? Do I need both of the units to be installed and have separate wiring for each? Any help is appreciated!! -Will
  9. ForrestLittle

    1990 Loyale

    My buddy Eric1111 has been working on my car. I cant sign into his account for some reason to post this so I made my own account to post for him. (Loyale 1990 with weber conversion) Eric says-- I've just finished replacing the clutch components and was to the point of trying to start the engine. It turned over nice, sounded good, good battery, but I hadn't hooked up the throttle. Next try, turns over nicely, timing's off, shut off the key, adjust timing. Try again, turns over, but timings wrong. Shut it off, adjust timing. Turn the key and nothing happens. Now the horn works, the emergency blinkers work. The chime that tells me my hand is on the key works, but I can't find anything else that does work. All the fuses look good. The fused links look like they did before, and I switched them around,looking for some change. The battery reads 12.48V, (It was 12.49 before I jumped the starter, which turned the engine over easily), but at the ignition switch,the hot wire reads 11.82V, with the key in the off position. Is the 1 volt loss an issue? I thought I had it narrowed down to the ignition switch. Replaced that to find zero change. Been workin on this car all day with Adam Sandler's POS car tune going in my head. Any thoughts on what the issue is?
  10. Hi all! I drive a 1992 Subaru Loyale wagon and just finished an intake gaskets change but cant seem to get the car to start now. This was my first big repair and it feels bad when the car doesn't start once back together!! I also replaced fuel lines and some coolant hoses along with an egr solenoid and a purge solenoid valve. I didn't take many pictures but I am pretty sure its all wired back up correctly. Battery was checked with a multimeter and is fine. Bad spark plug wires are one of my guesses and im grabbing some later today along with new spark plugs (since one plug might have got coolant in it during intake job). I have two videos of the car with its sounds attempting to start. https://vimeo.com/412065609 https://vimeo.com/412065609 Any and all suggestions would be great!! Thanks!!
  11. I have a Subaru loyale the last wiring to the ignition coil it’s all weird looking there and extra plug if anyone can help thank you so much. and if any one has any pictures of there ignition coil wiring that would be great
  12. I have a 90 loyale that has a no start I have replaced the coil and there is no spark right after the coil I am wondering what these plug goes too will show in picture it is the same kind of plug that plugs in the the transistor the weird thing on the ig coil bracket
  13. Finally got around to scanning the instructions that came with my NOS factory fog lamps. I did some (light) investigation and there doesn't seem to be a good way to wire these to turn on without the headlamps also being turned on. Hope this can help some people out! Subaru_EA82_Factory_Fog_Lamp_Installation_Instructions.pdf
  14. Hello everyone. Accidentially let the protection on my coolant drop too low and had a couple cold nights pop the freeze plugs on my Subie. Motor starts and runs fine, as long as coolant is in the vehicle. Need some guidance on R&R for the freeze plugs. Never done them before, so as much detail as possible would be appreciate. TIA
  15. I was wondering if anyone had found a direct-replacement for the parking lamp bulb socket on the EA82 chassis. Nearly every one I've laid eyes on is brittle, broken and turning to dust. They're getting to the point where they don't even hold the bulb inside the lamp properly and I've resorted to taping the socket to the back side of the lamp. I haven't pulled up the OEM part number yet (assuming it's obsolete, based on the failure rate I'm seeing in the field) and RockAuto doesn't list a direct replacement. So, what have you folks been doing about these bulb sockets?
  16. Hello, I need to pass emissions in California with my 1994 Loyale. When I took it in to get tested it passed everything except for the visual of the EGR system. The tech said that when he pushed the diaphragm on the EGR valve, the car should stumble and/or die, but it didn't, which he said was a symptom of clogged EGR passages. I took the EGR valve off, cleaned it, the stem moves well, even when on the car and I increase throttle to 2500 rpms. The carbon deposits didn't look too bad. I tried to clean the passages with a speedometer cable and some carb cleaner. I found that I couldn't get it around some of the bends in the passages. I knocked some carbon loose and vacuumed it up and tried blowing air down the passages. When I reinstalled the valve again, the car still wouldn't change its idle when I pushed the diaphragm in to open the valve. In fact the car ran fine without the EGR valve on (it was louder since it was blowing exhaust gases out of the lower hole). The EGR valve moves when applying vacuum and holds it when I keep the vaccum applied, so it doesn't leak when it is closed and is not seized. Also, the vacuum hoses don't seem to have a leak, since it opens at higher RPMs. I also have a 35ohm resistor mounted on the purge valve solenoid instead of the old stuck solenoid in order to clear the CE light. Would this effect the car and keep it from dying when pushing the EGR valve diaphragm? Or is it a completely different system? The EGR solenoid is brand new. What do you recommend that I do? Is the tech right? Are the EGR passages clogged? How do I get at them? I unscrewed the flare nuts that hold the 90º EGR pipe in place, but seemingly couldn't remove it without taking the intake manifold off. Also, I remember cleaning that pipe 10K miles ago when I did the head gaskets, so I imagine it is other passages? Does anyone have a diagram of how the passages run? Any other tests I can do? Many thanks!
  17. Hello Working on my '85 go 1800 wagon. I've been having some trouble with ignition for a while and I'm thinking it was a failing ignition module that has now totally died. I found a disty in a scrap yard and had it shipped. As far as I can tell it also has a bad module. Both distys have pickup coils that have good resistance so I don't think they are the problem. I've found the module at various sites and stores but the cheapest I've found was over $160, which seems like a lot, especially if this is going to be a recurring thing (which I read on another post on here that it likely is). My first thought was "points are cheap and easy" but quickly found out that would take more fabrication skills than I have. So my next thought is, could I wire in an ignition module from a different vehicle and just mount it near the disty? I've found other modules for Honda and other makes that are much much less expensive, but I don't think they would fit inside. Would this work? It's basically just a switch, right? Thanks in advance!!
  18. Evap/egr system is bad enough to make replacing the efi with the weber look like a good idea, but how's the ea82 to rebuild when its time to do so? Are any of the newer engines candidates for transplant/drop in instead of rebuilding the ea82? By the way, thanks for all the help I've gotten so far from your forum.
  19. Alright boys, this ones got me scratching my head. Leaving work last night, I went to fire up my 1992 Loyale and every thing was fine at first. Being winter, I sat and let it warm up a few minutes. It was running a little rough, but I live in Anchorage, Alaska and its pretty chilly. Maybe 20 degrees. When i say it was running a little rough, it's normal steady rhythm was off, like it was missing a beat or two. Typical for a cold start. I went to pull from thr curb. About a block down the road, still running rough, right after shifting into second, the engine quit. No extra noises. After trying to restart immediately failed, i pushed it to the curb. Popped the hood. I found nothing obvious. I improved the battery's ground and the ground off the transmission (by the way, i do not understand this wires function. It runs from the top of the trans housing to the upper framework that would hold the spare. If it is disconnected the car still operates, but at 8 volts not 12-14, and fluctuates with the clutch. If someone could explain that I'd really appreciate. Ive owned and turned wrenches on this thing for 10 years and still dont understand that wire. Its a manual. There should be no electrical in the gear box, right) Anyways. It was pretty darn low on fuel, but the gas light wasnt on yet. To be sure I put a few more gallons in. Checked the oil, also low but not terrible. Topped it off. It still won't fire up. It turns over, theres good power. It tries to start weakly. It sounds like it wants to. Its dark so I'll check it out more tomarrow. I just dont understand what it could be. It was running good, then just quit just like that. Ive done a lot of work to this ride. Timing, alt, new batt, throw out bearing, valve cover seals, etc. Any help I'd deep appreciate.
  20. I have an 86' Gl-10 4x4 that has a blown headgasket and seized engine, I want to get the thing up and running again because I love driving it, but I also wanted to look at doing an EJ swap instead, what type of Ej is going to be the most straightforward for the swap, I want to keep my 5 speed in it, although I know I'll have to swap out the 4x4 hi/lo 5spd trans for a newer awd manual trans, what kind of tips and advice can you all offer? Thanks for whatever help I get!
  21. I have alot of parts for the 86,87,88 subaru xt coupe. Should fit the XT6 also. I want these out of my basement. I have stored them many years, tried to sell them on here before. I would like someone to buy these as a lot. I will separate the smaller items but do not want to ship the hood, deck lid, dashboard or seats. The items are in NH. Let me know what you want and shot me a price. Here is a partial list. hood with turbo scoop rear deck lid front and rear seats door panels, front and rear center console drive shaft (4wd) door glass seat belt motors (retractable) both sides innner rear window panels, around glass too upper door glass seals headliner dash board, no cracks lower seat belts spare tire with cover rear tail lights with center section, center section has very small crack window motor and tracks, both sides visors defroster vent door threshold, both sides vanity light third brake light side mirrors passive belt control unit module ECU A11-000-R06 power window relay cont. unit h/low module distributor trip computer front kick panels heat ducts wiper switch steering lift handle rear view mirror moon roof and seal I believe I have the starter, will have to verify. bunch of relays rebuilt turbo EA82 motor most likely a couple more items. I do NOT have doors, fenders, motor, bumpers, wheels, exhaust or front axles. Email me at fdgwolfeboro@hotmail.com or call me at 603-715-5670. Remember I want to get these out of the basement and would love someone to buy the whole package.
  22. I did a search, but most of what came back was about adjusting windows. I've got an EA82 coupe that doesn't like to fully latch the driver's side door. When the door is closed, you can push the trailing edge of the door in towards the body about a 1/4 inch and when you get up to highway speeds, the wind noise is pretty unbearable. I tried adjusting the striker closer to the driver's seat, but nothing seemed to change. I tried adjusting it outwards, away from the seat and still, nothing seemed to change. What am I missing? The 1987 FSM isn't much help either.
  23. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    The "BUMBLE BEAST"

    This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here, which have more Background info of my Former White, Wagon. ______________________________________________________________________________________ My Dad Purchased This Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' new, from there to my Country, Honduras, at the caribbean central america... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! This Subaru wagon is a GL and came with white paint, EA82 carburated engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Since child, I learned Automotive Mechanics with my Father, working in a 1969 Mercury coupé, a diesel Truck and this Subaru; With time I did all the maintenance on our cars and eventually this Subaru became mine; since then I started to modify it ... ... The Subaru ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytics, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here became available unleaded gas just until 1994) so we Removed both Cathalytic converters, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR... This is a very old photo which I scanned: After hurricane mitch hitted and devastated our country in 1998 ( if you want to read statistics and see photos, click ~► Here ) a friend of my dad that owned a similar Wagon with a blown engine, sold it to my Dad as parts car; eventually we obtained the engine off from a wrecked Subaru Alcyone XT6 (ER27) and we managed to fit it on the former parts car, painted it on yellow and that was how we started the Project "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" and thus explains my Screen Name. That 2.7 Wagon lasted ten years, I had the Two Subarus, the White EA82 and the Yellow ER27 during that time. In the following photo, you can see them together: Despite that there were no place on engine's bay to put a normal Radiator on the 2.7 and it was running hot with a tiny pair of lateral radiators and electric fans, (You can read the complete details of such engine swap, ~► Here) the car worked, until it was wrecked in a huge frontal car crash, as you can read the details, ~► Here. Since I Lost my Dark yellow 2.7 wagon, I took some parts from it to Transform my Good Ol' White Weberized EA82 Subie onto a Much Better Machine, with the Best parts from the Two, and made many, many modifications to it. I still wanted to drive a Yellow Wagon, so I Choosed to paint my White Wagon in Yellow too, but with some Style Changes: ► I Used Brighter Yellow Paint for the Body and Deep Black Paint for Stripes! ► I "Shaved" the Subie's Body. (Paint thread ~► Here) ► Lifted it for medium duty offroading! ► Some minor Body Design Changes, ► and I made many, Modifications, Retrofittings & Swaps. Here in my Country, ALL the Taxis are White, and 85% are Wagons! ... ... So, My white wagon was Looking like a Taxi ... ... also I Really Love How those wagons Looks in Yellow; That was my Motivation to Change its Colour. Part of the Minor body Design Changes are, a sheetmetal Hood Scoop, which I name: the "InterFooler" ... ... the Original Idea was to Let the engine to Scream out Loudly thru the Weber Carb's throat during deep acceleration! ... ... Also I changed the Lug pattern redrilling the hubs to use Different Rims, and many, many more Modifications, which will be explained in this thread. After all that, my former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as: The "BUMBLE BEAST"
  24. A little background: My RX has no A/C. The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it. In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool. Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on. Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter. It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour). I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time.
  25. Has anyone had any experience chasing water leaks into the hatch area of their EA82 3-door coupes? I have a feeling it's coming from the taillamps/trim panel, but I suppose it could be coming from the hatch itself too. Anyone solve this problem? I've got two coupes and they both enjoy collecting water in their smuggler's hatches.
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