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Found 28 results

  1. Hi all, I am freshly signed up, and also fresh to Subaru's. Must admit I'm a car freak from way back, so I know my way around most old school Aussie sold cars. But when it comes to computers and other new age electrical systems on most modern cars, I seem to have fallen behind. Now I'm hoping that somebody could give me a direction of where to look, I've got a 'no start' issue. Bought Subaru Wrx not running, thought I'd give it a go. Previous owner did an engine swap, ej20 replacing ej20. He never could start it after swapping, but it ran b4 that, low on comp in one cyl. Now I've tried a lot of things, had a auto electrician out here for 4hrs, changed Cam and crank gears, changed both sensors, even though the old ones appeared to send a wave on screen. It sparked once when ignition turned on, so I changed pulleys, still won't start. Any info appreciated
  2. Hi all, I've been under my dash pulling my electrical bits apart trying to diagnose something and today while pulling out my ECU to get at my fuel pump relay I noticed a wire coming from one of my ECU plugs that's more than a little janky. The FSM lists the wire as being "Line end cord output" which means a whole lot of nothing to me, so I'm hoping one of you lovely folks might have a better idea what that means so I can decide whether or not I should be fretting over getting it more properly connected. There's the wire in question, old solder barely holding on by one copper strand And here's the FSM labeling that wire as #11 on connector F108, "Line end Cord Output" Does that mean anything to any of you?
  3. Hi Guys, the last two days in a row now I've had a really hard time starting my '87 GL. this morning it took me about 30 minutes of trying, and I finally got it after about 30 seconds with the starter going, and gently feathering the gas pedal juuuust right. It almost started and then stalled a few times before I finally got it. This is something that has happened VERY infrequently while I've owned this car, like four other times in the last 8 months, and now two days in a row. Right now I'm traveling around rural Alaska and so having the car start consistently and correctly is an absolute must. While I was trying to get it started this morning I took off the kick panel to look at the ECU and see if it was flashing a code that might help me diagnose what's going on here. It flashed a very short blip 6 times, then a pause, and 6 more blips, all very short. By my understanding this means the code is number 6, but my FSM doesn't have a code 6 listed. Anyone know what that might be? After looking through the forums for similar threads I think my culprit is probably the CTS. Or maybe the fuel injector? There's a very strong gas smell as I'm trying to start it up that makes me feel like it's getting flooded. Though once I get it up and running it runs perfectly fine, and I put a can of seafoam in the gas tank just a few tanks ago so I'm not sure if the injector would be stuck I'm debating putting in new spark plugs and replacing my fuel filter as well while I'm at it, any thoughts or suggestions on a reliable startup are welcome and appreciated.
  4. I recently replaced an idle air control valve and the check engine light is still on and the idle is still rough. Do I need to reset the ecu? Or do I have a faulty wire? I'm a bit unsure because normally I've never had to reset the ecu.
  5. Hello, I've bought a damaged Forester XT Premium 2015 and I'm starting the recovery process. While I'm waiting for the body parts I'm focusing in putting the engine to run. First I sent the car to an mechanic and he told me that the engine ecu is not responding, because his scanner wasn't able to connect to the vehicle to read any fault codes. After that I sent the vehicle to the Subaru dealership and they confirmed that the ecu is damaged and needs to be replaced. I think that diagnostic is weird, because the crash didn't affect much the engine or any electronic parts. Does anyone know about something that might be 'blocking' the access to the ecu, maybe due to the crash? Something like the air bag system blocking the engine or something? The dealership is asking me $2000 for a new ECU, while I found an used for around $600. Is it possible to just replace the original ECU by a similar from another car? Is there any kind of locks, keys, passwords or something that might block the communication between the ECUs? Regarding the ECU partnumbers, mine is: 22765AH011, while the used I found is 22765AH010. All the other parts I found in the stores are not equal, but similar partnumbers: 22765AG970, 22765AG973, 22765AH510. http://parts.subaru.com/ http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/oem-subaru-parts.html Are all these ECUs the same, but with different 'software versions'? Is it possible to know if they are compatible? All of them are for the same vehicle version: Forester XT Premium 2015. Thanks in advance for any enlightenment!!
  6. Hey Im new to this forum and a bit new still to subies but i have this 1982 BRAT and i just picked up a almost complete EA82T to swap into it minus the wiring harness and ecu so i am in need of one does anyone have one that they would sell for cheap?-- i need every single wire and the ecu and also the hole MAF housing and the sensor and the downpipe so Please let me know. Thanks. -Jared
  7. This is really baffling me. Could use help. Pulled main relay and it bench tests fine. Had a crank sensor code, replaced with new. Timing covers off and all looks intact. Can see OBDII readout at port, but when I test probe connectors at ECU per FSM, I am not seeing power consistently at PIN 1 and 2 and there is no ground at 19. Cleaned as many grounds as I could find. Have new battery. Amazingly, I can hear fuel pump run on key turn and the main relay energizes the proper five ports. Have 12V to ignition control and coil pack, but no pulse. Noid light will not come on at any time at injector 1. Does this sound like failed ECU? Thanks, Matt
  8. Hello all, I have a 2002 WRX and I don't know how i could find out if my ecu is the problem. To start from the beginning, I was trying to find the output of my ECU that could turn it from automatic to manual in the hope of getting rid of p1596 error (automatic tranny diagnosis input signal high input). I made the mistake of of removing the ECU from the bolts that i now know that ground the ECU. I tried cutting one wire (which i found out that was for the knock sensor.. wrong electrical diagram) After i cut that wire, maybe 30 seconds later the car wouldn't start anymore. After re soldering the wire, i found that the fuel pump wasn't priming. After troubleshooting everything possible with the fuel pump, i replaced it thinking that was my issue. It didn't. Still wouldn't prime. I have tested all the wiring from the fuse all the way to fuel controller. All is good. I then thought to myself i will just bypass the whole line and wired 12 volt directly to the fuel pump to run it continuously to see if i could get the car started. With the pump running and car turning over, i get no start now. I assume that if the fuel pump is working now at full blast, will it drown the engine and prevent it from stopping? How do i know if i blew the ECU? thanks to anyone that can help me.
  9. I might have fried the ECU on my 2002 WRX. Wondering two things: 1 - which ECU's are interchangeable. 2003 Impreza? Found a cheap ECU in scrap yard. Turbo car vs non make a difference? I know the tranny doesn't make any. 2 - Trying to find the right fuse/ fuses? to the ECU. Just in case the problem is that simple. anybody know any systems that are run by the ECU that I could test to see if they work with the key on? Thank you all... always great help! 1000 heads are better than one..
  10. Hello all, I have been looking for this answer for a long time all over the place. I have a 2002 WRX manual. It was originally an automatic when produced, the previous owner got it switched to manual. The thing is I'm pretty sure the wire to tell the ECU it's a manual instead of automatic hasn't been put. I know the ECU is the same. I've looked everywhere on how to do this. Anybody have experience on this? I keep getting the error code P1596 caused by this I'm pretty sure. Thanks in advance.
  11. Hello, I have a 1992 Legacy Wagon, EJ22, AWD. A few days ago the motor would not fire up and has not fired up since. The wagon has not had any motor work done to it for over 3 years. It ran and drove great over these past 3 years. The wagon has never been in an accident. The timming belt was replaced 3 years ago. What I've checked: -Fuses (both under the hood and Under the dash) -Ran the codes (24, 11, 13) -Inspected crankshaft position sensor. Tested sensor and found it to be working and within spec. -Inspected camshaft position sensor. Tested sensor and found it to be working and within spec. -Swapped out both sensors with known working ones just to be sure - no change in problem. ALSO did this test - disconnected crank sensor, connected cam sensor, sprayed fuel into intake, turned over motor, no run - disconnected cam sensor, connected crank sensor, sprayed fuel, turned over motor, no run. - connected both sensors, sprayed fuel, turned motor over - runs like a frickin champ. *** Cant test the Air Control Valve (code 24) because the Haynes manual does not have that part listed in the book. -Inspected Coil, All plugs are getting spark and sparking properly when the motor is turned over. -Inspected Fuel Filter. Good volume of fuel flows through filter. -Fuel Pump. I did not have the proper gauge to test fuel pressure, so I replaced the fuel pump with a brand new pump. Fuel filter sock is new to. -Tested fuel injectors, all 4 have proper ohm reading. What I've discovered is the fuel injectors are not pulsing. -I tested each electrical lead and found that there is no power getting to any of the injectors. When I switch the key on, I should have 12V. I dont know what else to look at. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  12. Hey guys, first of all I need to confess: I don't really own a complete Subaru (sorry) ... Last year, we swapped a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine from a 2000 Legacy (156 hp) into our 1973 VW Beetle. We also installed the stock ECU and all the necessary parts from the original wiring harness. Combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox, a lighter flywheel and a custom exhaust system, the car produced 187 whp on the dyno. It is really fun to drive and nobody even remotely expects this kind of power in an old VW Beetle... However, the ECU constantly reports error code 38 "Engine torque control" or "Torque permission signal". When I checked the ECU with OBD2, I found values for "Engine Torque Request", "Torque permission signal" and some more stuff that leads to the conclusion that the ECU is expecting to have a Subaru automatic transmission with the corresponding TCU connected. I bought another ECU that was confirmed to be out of a car with manual transmission, but after installing it, I got exactly the same behavior and the same error codes as before. So there are two options: 1. Someone screwed me over and the new ECU is again out of car with automatic transmission 2. The ECUs are actually the same for AT and MT and the transmission mode is set somewhere else... For the older engines 1996-1999, I found some information about a "AT/MT identification pin" on the wiring harness, which defines whether the ECU should behave like AT or MT. Does anybody know, where to find that pin on my ECU (2000 Legacy, EJ25 SOHC 156hp) or if it even exists? I checked multiple websites for ecu pin-outs or wiring information, including this forum and also this one: https://hackedecu.com/ultimate_subaru_pinout ... but I did not really find anything useful for the 2000 Legacy... best, Chris
  13. I PICKED UP A 1986 GL 10 WAGON WITH A BAD ENGINE,FOUND ANOTHER ENGINE,ALL HOOK UP,ECU IS GIVING CODE 12,TROUBLE SHOOT,THERE IS POWER TO ECM,WHEN CRANKED.ALSO INJECTORS NOT GETTING POWER,TRIED ANOTHER ECM SAME THING.DO I HAVE 2 BAD ECMS OR IS THERE SOMETHIG CAUESING THE ECM TO FAIL.ECS LIGHT IS ON.I DON'T WANT TO TRY OTHER ECM.AND HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM,ANYBODY RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM,THANKS ED
  14. Hello, First post on this Forum! It has been killing me on my 1997 Subaru outback to get the pin connections out of the baby blue B84 connector. I am trying to ground out Pin #81 to remove the CEL for the egr valve. The previous owner swapped the 2.5 for a 2.2. They changed the original automatic transmission to a 5 speed, so I am getting the CEL for the EGR because originally the car had a EGR valve but the new 2.2 does not have an EGR. So after hours of research I found if you ground out Pin 81 at the ECU it will tell the ECU that the car is a manual and does not require an EGR. Here in lies the problem, I for the life of me can not get the pins to release to move them! Could some one please let me know the secret to releasing the pins! I have stuck tiny screwdrivers in every hole and cant get one to release, there is not wire retainers to release. If you look at the pic below you can see what connector I am trying to work with. Thanks! connector.pdf
  15. Hi there, So I just bought a high mileage 1990 subaru legacy with the 2.2l and auto trans. I went into it knowing there were some issues to resolve, those being primarily leaking valve covers and some throttle body issues. While talking to the seller he told me that the alternator had recently gone bad and that he had replaced it with a junkyard one. He assured me he'd had it tested and it tested out well. I drove the vehicle a few days to figure out some of it's quirks before I dove into the project. After a thorough cleaning of the engine bay I drove about five miles, noticing some serious electrical malfunctions with the gauges and the headlights dimming, and eventually the car died from a lack of electrical power. Obviously, I jumped at the alternator. Pulled it and the battery out. Took the battery to work (I work at a Chevrolet dealership) for a full charge and a diagnostic to make sure that it was not in fact the problem. Battery tested great, so I charged it fully and put it back in the car. Next came the alternator. Again, took it down, got it bench tested and it too tested out fine. So I came home, installed everything again, hit the key and it starts right up. I hopped in to take it for a test drive and made it maybe 100 yards down the road before the whole vehicle just shuts off like someone hit an on/off switch. The only time I've ever had electrical failure to that extent is when the battery cables aren't properly hooked up, so I checked everything out and it's all hooked up fine. Tried to jump it with my Jeep and the motor still wouldn't turn over. So like I said, I'm a newbie to the Subaru world, so I was wondering if there's some engine ground that may have come loose that wasn't readily apparent or if there might be a fuse or relay that would cause these symptoms. It's very clearly all of a sudden not getting power to the starter and I can't figure out why. Any help is appreciated.
  16. Ruby Sue

    EJ25 Swap help needed

    Hey guys. So I'm planning on doing an ej swap into my ea wagon this summer, and although I was planning on using an ej22, I have easy access to two ej25s. One is a SOHC with an incomplete harness, don't know what it came out of or what year it is. The other is a DOHC sitting in a wrecked 97 legacy, complete. From what I understand, the SOHC is the more desirable of the two. So I'm wondering if i can use the wiring and ecu from the DOHC on the SOHC? Is there anything else I would have to swap to make it work? I've seen people ask similar questions, but couldn't find any answers for my situation, so any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  17. I swapped a 97(?) JDM 2.5L in for a 99 2.5L recently. The 99 was driven about 60 miles with no water in it due to a blown hose, nuf said, it wasn't me. I installed the "new" older 2.5 with new timing belt blah blah blah. Timing set up nicely. Even though the JDM was injected, we transferred the inake and other appropriate items to the "new" block including drilling and tappping out the EGR hole in the head. I don't want to go into the 4 bolt vs 8 bolt "bell housing" issue as it doesn't seem to be an issue. Where my problem is at, is that I can get spark to the cylinders #1 and #2 but get no spark to #3 and #4. The coil(s) check out, the ignitor checks out and there doesn't seem to be a signal from the ECU to fire the #3/#4 ignitor circuit. I have checked the wiring between the ECU and the Ignitor and it appears OK. The connector at the ECU is clean and undamaged. So I assumed it was the ECU as I have read that it is the main source of "no start" conditions. I put in a used ECU. I got exactly the same deal, no signal to #3/#4 circuit in the ignitor. I find it hard to believe that a second (albeit used) ECU would have the same problem ........ or does it? What would cause the ECU to send signals to fire the #1/#2 circuit but not the #3/#4? I am baffled but it is probably something simple. Any help? I am new to this site and this is my first request. As far as my background. I have degrees in Electronics and Mechanical Engineering so I am no ametuer at troubleshooting and I am pretty much down to earth in that degrees don't mean spit sometimes. I usually find the simple things are the ones that trip us up.
  18. I'm new to the Subaru as well as boosted arena so please bear with my seemingly naive questions. Engine: 1998 WRX STI Version V RA 2.0L EJ207 (Completely stock internals) ECU: 6S Turbo: Stock VF28 Exhaust: 3'' Turboback 5zigen exhaust. I currently have an aftermarket MBC (Halman) installed running approximately 10 psi of boost (its a daily driven car). 1. Are there any issues running such low boost? Research suggests that these engines ran 17-18psi stock. 2. Wastegate pressure (if I remember correctly) is circa 7-9psi. I don't quite understand how I can reconnect the OEM Boost Solenoid, I'll appreciate if anyone can supply me with some images of an engine bay and the appropriate connections etc. Effectively then, will adjusting the MBC to run the desired 18psi be equivalent to reconnecting the OEM Boost Solenoid? IMO reconnecting the OEM solenoid seems safer as proper adjustments can be accurately made by the ECU. I recently installed an AEM Wideband and A/F ratio at idle was averaged to be 14.7±0.2 and 10.0 at WOT. The WOT A/F ratio seems to be quite rich which prompted my question regarding running LOWER than stock boost pressures and its effect on the ability of the ECU to compensate effectively. Prompt replies and any knowledgeable insight will be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  19. I have an 03 Outback 2.5 A/T w appx. 184k miles. Trans has been replaced and the previous owner took good care of and maintained the vehicle well. The past several months I have had starting/idling/stalling issues. This general is worse when the vehicle is cold. It is hard to start without giving the accelerator a little help it most of the time will not start and keep running. It will stall if the idle is not kept up but when it does it runs fine. Sometimes it will idle and or start on its own without help, but that is generally only when it is warm, however can periodically do so on a cold start. When it stalls out, often the "AT Oil Temp" light flashes. The car is not throwing any codes. When these issues first started the symptoms where worse and the idle on a few occasions started to run high on its own, yes while driving which was quite dangerous! A few weeks back I ran some Seafoam into the intake into two different areas as per the bottles instructions to try to ensure that all cylinders where feed properly with the remains in the fuel tank. I also cleaned the throttle body out the best I could (air filter good, pcv valve iffy.) I did not get the standard heavy white smoke on start up that I normally do on other vehicles leading me to question whether the process took properly. I had a mechanic tell me to reset the computers values by disconnecting the negative lead & touching it to the positive side and leave set for 15 minutes or so. All of this seemed to do the trick. However, it started again and I brough it to my mechanic. The only thing they could find was a reported vacuum leak next to the intake. That certainly could do it and assumed that when I reassembled the air cleaner, I must have not made a proper connection and was gald that was the problem. It was not. THe car is still doing the same thing. I am going to try and replace the fuel filter and pcv valve next but if that doesn't do it, I am stuck! Suggestions!?! Btw: The TPS switch was tested and all that seems to be good. Please HELP!?!
  20. Does anyone knows if a unisia jecs ecu of the 2005 impreza ts model 1.6l (N/A, with cable throttle) can be reprogrammed with ecutek tools or if is it reprogrammable at all? Because my tuner told me its possible but everybody else says the opposite..... this is a pic of the ecu chip
  21. I've got a couple of strange questions. I've got a 2000 OBS w/ standard transmission and was wondering if there is a sensor telling the computer what gear the car is in. I was thinking it's pretty unlikely but was just curious. If so is it possible to get this information from the computer to an external circuit? Does the computer read the tach? Again, if so is it possible to get this info from the computer to an external circuit? Thanks in advance. Jimbo
  22. So, I'm wondering about the potential of using a stock ECU for an engine swap. Does anyone know what would be required to use the stock ECU for a 2007 ez30r in a different vehicle? has anyone tried to swap this engine and had results with said stock ECU? I've heard that there might be a bunch of issues with regard to the fact that there wouldn't be a bunch of sensors that the ECU would expect to be present, but I'd REALLY love to save the $2200 that would be potentially spent on a aftermarket ECU (I'm considering the Haltech p2000 sport since it looks like it can run the AVCS programs) Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  23. 84brat_turbo

    84 Brat Turbo

    Hello All, I have an 84 brat turbo, which the car dies after driving, very intermittent, A quick Key off, on will get it going again. it idles for a few minutes then just shuts off. I replaced the computer, mass air flow, Distributor. I recently replaced the transmission. the car sat for a few months with the key accidentally left on (battery dead) after the automatic tranny swap, it had 2 bad injector coils. two injectors replaced, it would run, but had a bad miss at various rpms. so I ordered a remanufactured computer ecu. this did not fix it I then unplugged the mass air flow. it ran better, but not right, so I bought a remanufactured MAF. this made it a little better, I then replaced the entire distributor, no change. I unhooked the knock sensor unit, unplugged the altitude sensor, etc eliminated every electronic component I could still intermittent acts up. It does this with the anti knock control unit unplugged.(car will run without it) It idles better with the Mass Air flow unit unplugged as well. I measured all wiring from engine side of wire harness to the ECU, nothing measures bad. UGGGG!!! at this point. Tomorrow I plan on replacing the coil, and fuel pump. seems to act up when I hit a bump on a right hand turn. also, with headlights off it runs better. Im thinking either the fuel pump is getting knocked and acts up, Coil may be getting hot and drawing more current, or alternator is acting up when hot. Car runs with battery terminals unhooked, so I know alternator is charging. I will ultimately fix it and post my findings. I still love my little money pit.....BTW also has a new turbo....wheel bearings, got a small fortune in it.... I named it Johnny Cash..... one piece at a time....only wish it didn't cost me a dime... Bill https://www.facebook.com/bill.sherman.58
  24. Hi all, My 1996 Subaru Legacy GT had been through a crash but no damage to the Engine at all. So i decided to buy a 1998 legacy GTB body, so i could put my engine into that. I have got that done and now im down to the last couplie parts which is getting the timing done, and getting this ECU put in and hoping for the best that its gonna work. So my question is do i put the 1996 ECU chip in ? or the 1998 ECu chip in? because im getting it done as a home job. & unfortunatley the people doing it aint quite sure themselves. I hope someone can help me here , and also which is for which i have a chip that is black stickered with 87 on it and i dont know which MOdel its from, and ive been looking on line for 98 ecu's and their saying the 4g one is for that so im stuck. Also is it possible to do this? i have heard the car go before with the engine in but it didnt go for long, the coils and the ECU burnout, but its been soo long since ive looked at the car i have forgotten which one burnout. Both the cars are manual and the engine is a standard twin turbo engine that you get lol, even like wiring and stuff would some1 be able to help me there to do i put the 98 wiring in or the 96 wiring in. Some 1 please help thanks Cheerz
  25. New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
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