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Found 13 results

  1. So, still ticking away at my ej swap and I'm just trying to sort out what I'm going to do as far as my radiator is concerned. All the radiators I have seen over here for the leone are plastic tanked single row things, which makes it hard to add larger ports for the ej hoses, and the two i have currently are in pretty rough shape (leaks and bent fins). The legacy radiator would take a bit more cutting then I think I'm willing to do to install. So as I see it, I could; get a custom radiator (which means getting another custom radiator if it breaks) and spending a fair chunk of coin. Then there's an xt6 wrecking which I could try and get the radiator from, pretty much the same size as ea, large ports, but then the same thing applies if it breaks, cheaper then a custom rad though. Or what I'm leaning to, is the BRZ radiator, roughly the same size as the ea, large ports, easier to fit, potentially better cooling and the advantage that if anything breaks, another brz radiator will bolt in. Now, the downside to the brz (at the moment atleast) i can't source one in NZ (except for one oem with delivery k's for $500) Or an aftermarket one early march. Which lead me to ebay, and this post. Now, since I'm probably going to get it off ebay and if it doesnt work out returns going to be pretty much a waste, if anyone has done it or can recommend a radiator I would like to know more. If no one really pipes up I will probably go with the cheapest brz rad shipped and give it a go with that. Anyway, some i have been looking at (pretty much cheapest on ebay+shipping to nz) Cheapest http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2013-2015-SU00301172-FITS-SUBARU-BRZ-SCION-FR-S-RADIATOR-1-ROW-/221581932248?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item33974ff6d8&vxp=mtr Next cheapest (has brand at least) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-1-Row-Plastic-Tank-Aluminum-Core-CSF-3569-/151562377074?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item2349d25772&vxp=mtr#shpCntId All aluminum http://www.ebay.com/itm/SICKSPEED-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-ALUMINIUM-RADIATOR-FOR-BRZ-FRS-2012-GT86-FR-S-TOYOTA-/111222456232?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item19e55fffa8&vxp=mtr Cheers for all those that looked Tom
  2. Hey all Ive read on a couple topics with ej swaps people swapping out cv axle studs to use the ea generation cv axles. Any threads on this? or any one have advice on this? would like to use the ea cv axles so i dont have to do custom ones and keep cost effective in the future. any help appreciated
  3. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3h8j6sXR813blBiY05haDVJcWc/view?usp=sharing I have a 98 EJ22 in my 92 Loyale Wagon. I put in a D/R tranny, gave it a 2-4" lift and just last week put on the stronger springs that JesZek suggested along with all new struts and all new 1/2 shafts. She's running pretty awesome! But first! I need my AC for the upcoming hot summer! I scavenged all the R-12 parts out of a 93 Legacy (compressor, compressor bracket, tensioner pulley, lines, receiver/dryer/pressure switch) and paid Mac's Radiator here in Portland a large chunk of change to mate all the fittings together and integrate it into my Loyale (so it hooks up to the Loyale condenser and evaporator. They also ran through the system, changed out O rings, flushed and pressure tested it. They said it's all clean, flushed, the compressor seems to work fine, the system holds pressure and they also replaced the drier. Unfortunately they wouldn't put R-12 in it until I re-installed the Sub Fan and got it wired correctly. So I've spent the day searching for all the different wiring diagrams for each donor car and locating most of the necessary wires from the EJ ECU. I already have 2 fan relays that I set up. Plus 2 slim fans, pulling from the inside of the radiator. The main fan is switched on with Pin 74, a Red/Blue wire that goes to ground when the engine gets to about 90 degrees C. I was told the sub fan is switched on with Pin 73 after an even higher temp is reached. Pin 73 is a Green/White wire that I tried to use for my 2nd fan. It never seemed to work no matter how hot I got the engine so I ended up wiring a toggle switch next to the steering column for its relay. My understanding now is that it (Pin 73) is grounded when the A/C is turned on. My goal is to get the A/C wired up properly, so that the ECU does what it needs to do: Kick up the IAC for 1/2 a second and then switch on the A/C compressor relay and fire up the Sub Fan simultaneously. I would like to run the compressor trigger line on the A/C relay through the pressure switch on my drier so that it has that as a backup safeguard as well. I will also run the toggle switch to the A/C relay ground so I can keep manual control of the 2nd fan as needed. Here are my questions: Where on my 92 Loyale can I find the wire that is activated when I press "Defrost" or "A/C" on my dash? Is it grounded or hot when I turn on the A/C? If it's hot like I imagine, then I want to run this +12v wire to the hot on my A/C relay, and to the compressor trigger wire via the Pressure switch and A/C relay contact? I am assuming that Pin 31, Blue and Orange will provide the ground to fire the A/C relay and turn on the compressor. I'm also assuming that Pin 60 receives a +12v signal from my A/C "on" hot wire when I hit the A/C buttons and this gives the ECU the heads up that I'm calling for A/C so it can do it's job. Right? So, yeah, my biggest questions are: Where can I find the A/C wire on my Loyale? and is +12v the correct voltage to input into Pin 60 on my ECU when I call for cold air? Hopefully my link above shows the picture I drew of what I intend to do. Can anybody confirm or deny my ideas??
  4. I have just purchased a 1988 subaru GL wagon dual range 5 speed transmission SPFI ea-85 with 162,xxx for $500 little to no rust. everything works except when you switch into four wheel high or low the car will drive but once you start accelerating a nasty shake / shudders start shaking the whole car and when you try and turn the whole car locks up completely. It drives in 2 wheel perfectly fine except at high speeds (50+) the car will vibrate from the rear differential a little bit. My guess is that the rear differential is not functioning properly somehow. I also have a 92 legacy that has 140,xxx that I want to swap the ej22 into the gl. If someone could help me diagnose the problem with the four wheel that would be much appreciated and if someone could point me towards a how to ej swap thread and tell what all I might need that would also be beyond helpful.
  5. Hi Im Scott Im the Owner and builder at SJR my stores at www.sjrlift.com I build and sell Lift kits from 1"-9" , EJ into EA car engine swap kits, you can also put a EA dual range into the newer cars with my parts, I make and sell tube bumpers, and redrill EA81 and EA82 hubs to allow mounting other pattern wheels on the EA cars, I prep the EJ harness for the EJ swap, just send me your complete harness from the EJ car and Ill thin it out rerap and label the wires, can also do custom stuff at your request, Im located in Bellingham Washington , stop by and Ill give you a ride in my latest Offroader on my private land, check out my site here www.sjrlift.com
  6. Hi! So as the title says, my speedometer, odometer and tach are not working after an engine swap. I have a 99 impreza L, which had 2.2 in it. Few weeks ago i swapped in an ej25 from a 99 RS, and changed the transmission as well (it's the same 3:9 transmission, mine was getting old). Everything seemes to be working nice, except the tach and speedometer. I have everything hooked up, speed sensor on tranny, all the sensons on engine. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated, using speedometer app on the phone is not as convenient
  7. So after a bit of thinking and a whole bunch of 'why not' coming to mind I've decided to undertake an ej swap on my 84' wagon. Since I now have my 83 sedan to drive around throughout the process times not going to be too much of an issue, and with work taking a 4 week holiday over the new year I decided it would be a perfect time to get it done or even just the bulk of it. My car as it sits now is a carbureted ea82 4wd hi/low wagon. The plan: Replace ea82 with ej20 Recase ea82 hi/low gearbox front with ej hi/low front case (Like el_freddo has) except I plan on just keeping it 2wd/4wd. Use a FI Leone fuel pump and FI hose Radiator, unsure on this one, the one in my car needs replacing due to a slow leak so this bit is up in the air. Strip down the wiring myself (What could go wrong) Hopefully someone i know will help with an exhaust, if not get an exhaust made. Swap rear drums to disks, maybe swap fronts to turbo for the 25 spline? This should keep the cert guy happy. Hopefully get it certified no problem (Plan on contacting the guy on monday to hear his thoughts) The Donor: 1993 Subaru legacy wagon 2.0 4wd http://puu.sh/cfeJo/afe1518548.jpg http://puu.sh/cfeIJ/f475a49924.jpg http://puu.sh/cfeHJ/b5e5b012e8.jpg Quite rough on the outside and its been sitting a couple of years but it starts and runs fine with no known faults. At the moment I'm waiting on somewhere to do all this, I could do it here at home but it wouldn't be nice. Would love to do it at work (everything I could ever need there) but they may not like it even over the holidays. But I will see. Will try and rope in some help from friends I suppose as well. So thats where I'm at, the beginning. Cheers, Tom
  8. Was just wondering if anyone has managed to keep the spare wheel under the hood with an EJ swap? I would like to with mine and was just after any previous experience if anyone has done it. With the EJ in place it seems i either need to drop the intake ~2" so it will fit under the wheel (2" lift with 2" spacers) and maybe a block between TB and intake to angle it level or down slightly with this i run into the problem of 2" lift with 13" wheels, or get the intake away from the back all together, now I know they use flipped manifolds in later model subarus to shorten FMIC piping but I'm not sure about these early ones? If i tried flipping the intake my problem would be pipe to hood clearance over the alternator (also trying to keep A/C) on the bright side with a flipped intake my throttle cable would be the perfect length (nowhere near long enough at the moment). So, thoughts? Should i give up and just accept the spare wheels going to be in the cargo area? Cheers, Thomas
  9. czny

    99 Lego OB trans

    Can the cable TO brg fork be used in this later hydra clutch trans? Has anyone here done the ej R&P swap to a EA d/r trans using the late 99 up 8 bolt bell housing 5 mt trans? Replacing the d/r 3.90 R&P with a 4.11 R&P from a 99 Lego OB & adding the viscous center diff for AWD. Here are links to similar threads about this; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129898-4444-x-1592-x-3545-251/?hl=transmission http://www.offroadingsubarus.com/outbacklowrange_part1.html Thanks!
  10. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make a cold air intake for a swapped ej22 brat? i want a real cold air not just the short ram. thats what i have right know and it real sucks with the rapid changes in temp here in colorado. I lack power when its above 65 degrees. Don't know if thats related to a missing rear o2 sensor though or coming from engine bay temp. But i still would like to make a Cold Air system for the Brat. Any suggestions would be much appreciated (mainly where to put filter and material to use)
  11. simenlang

    EJ swap Autocad file?

    hi, looking for a drawing of an adapter plate to put a EJ into my brat( as long as the drawing is to scale), im on a tight budget so buying one is not an option.(i have access to a CNC) its my daily driven so the swap has to be done in a weekend. i need to have all the parts ready to go. Thats why i am woundering if someone whould share, if they have one with me? send it on PM or something, I WILL NOT USE IT TO SELL ON, ONLY FOR ME, MYSELF AND I based on the help i get from you guys i may make a project thread on it, if you are interested. Sorry in advance if my grammar, et cetera is bad. Thanks in advance for the help, i appreciate it.
  12. So heres where im at: My 1987 RX blew a head gasket. Two options im considering: EJ "swap" or rebuild w/mods I read the ej swap threads and a bit about the ea82 so i have an idea of the work involved in swapping, and i know the limitations of the ea82T. So I need some input on this. Reading the ej-ea document(sorry cant remember the author off the top of my head) the part that has me a little anxious is the wiring, mainly the removal and installation of the wiring harness. so for the swap my questions are: Is there anyone who would splice the harness for a fee? is there a shop who could do the whole swap? Whats the ideal(easiest) donor for this project? for the ea mods, i know it cant handle a ton of boost so i’m mainly looking at the rebuild to begin with: Is there a difference between the turbo and non-turbo blocks? and the different years? my current block has been tapped in two locations, and id like to have stock threads for the distributer and the tensioner pulley. I guess my overall question is what donor block can i use and how can i tell if the head is warped ahead of time? and then besides all that, while i have the engine out, ill be doing the belts/water pump, but what else should i do as far as maintenence and reasonable mods? i dont want to spend more than 4k on the whole thing, but the cheaper the better. but obviously i want as much quality as money that money can buy.
  13. Hi all, I've been searching this morning on information regarding the charcoal canister. Anything that I've come across dealing with this, only pertains to 2.2-2.5 swaps.. The Legacy donor vehicle had hit a deer, so the passenger fender/radiator/light/charcoal canister were destroyed. I have the EJ in the Loyale now, and I'm wondering how to correctly hook up the Loyale's canister to the EJ motor. Is this possible? I believe I connected the two (available) EJ lines correctly. But there is the third line off of the cannister that I'm not sure where to hook up. It says VC I believe. My next question is about hooking up an EA temp sender unit, and a fan relay together... I will be hooking up two 10" fans to my brand new EA82 single row radiator. It is identical to the old one that I pulled out. There is a port on the side, that I believe I can put in some type of temperature sensor in... On to the subject... I will be using the EA temp sender so that I can keep the gauge working. I also will be using a 30amp relay/circuit/switch system to operate my fans. I do not want to make a sleeve for the sender, then to put it in-line with the upper radiator hose. My idea is to make a T-adapter that can be used in that radiator port. Any reservations? I was thinking of getting a small length (maybe 1/2" long) of threaded pipe (to the size of the hole..) then attaching that to a T of some sort that I can put in the temp sender for the gauge, and one for the fan sensor... That might not make any sense, my brain is firing sparatically from all the coffee... This is similar to what I'll be using for the fan relay... Any thoughts would be great! Thanks, Greg
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