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Found 2 results

  1. Hi again! Tried searching the forum for similar issues and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for - this might be two issues, or fifty-three issues, or they might be related to one unifying issue, so I'm just gonna put it out there. Recently (last 6 months or so), when I turn my ignition to "ON" without starting, the check engine light flashes (instead of just being steady-on) and there's a relay clicking constantly. I think it's probably the fan relay, because the fans also come on, but only for a second, then it clicks off again, sort of like when the green diagnostic connectors are connected under the kick panel, except they're not. Don't know if those two things are related (the CEL rapid flashing in "ON" position and the relay clicking), but the second part of the issue, or maybe a brand-new issue, started today. While driving around today, after having installing a new battery a couple days ago, the check engine light came on steady. So I stopped, attached the test connectors (the black ones) and got a fistful of codes. But the weird thing is, while waiting for them to cycle through again so I could double-check them, they changed. As in, started throwing codes that don't exist. Like..."8." and "5." It looks like the CEL got interrupted in the middle of flashing, so like, going from a long flash to a quick flash - maybe the code was supposed to be 18, but the long flash got cut off and made a short one, making it look like 8. This happened a few times, to a few different codes, leaving me not knowing exactly what the hell numbers I'm looking at 😂 What I *think* the codes were trying to say: 45,23,24,13,14,15,16,18? (Atmospheric sensor; airflow sensor; air control valve; cam angle sensor; fuel injector #1-3; and oh wait there is no code 18 so I really have no idea). The car appears to be driving fine. No stumbling, no cutting out, no weird smells (mostly). The only eyebrow-raising thing as far as function goes is that when I first installed the new battery (fully charged, of course), it didn't want to start right away, and then stumbled, almost died, and blew a lot of smoke (light-colored) out the tailpipe (sort of like my previous MAF problems, which I thought were solved). But once I got it to stabilize and the smoke cleared, it's been running fine since then, and only hesitated slightly to catch today after I pulled the codes. Does anyone know what the issue might be? Bad ECU, maybe? It's been replaced once, but not terribly recently, so I don't know how long the things should last. Or am I overlooking something really basic? Many thanks!
  2. hello USMB members, I've had a break in my upper radiator hose this past summer which may have been due to my cooling fans not switching on. The driver didn't realize they weren't coming on prior to the hose break either so i initially changed out the thermostat, thinking that it may have stuck in the closed position. After replacing the Thermostat and its gasket with those crap paper gaskets that are nothing like the molded rubber one I removed.... I then realized the cooling fans were not switching on. i've unplugged the Thermo-fan switch (single spaded connection) with the car running at temp and the fans did not come on, as someone on this list suggested in an older post (2010). This car has two electric fans and came with A/C although I removed the compressor during the lift operation, so I will break out the test light / multimeter this weekend and try to determine where power is or isn't but I thought I'd ask the list for any further suggestions. Also, I noticed a broken spade connection on 1 of the 2 relays mounted on the firewall (passenger side) of this EA81 engine. The relay with the broken spade is nearest the fender and both relays are black cubes with a single mounting screw attachment to the firewall.. Are these relays easy to find? Rockauto, or..? thanks for any help anyone can offer; I'll try posting a pic of the relays in this thread too... best regards!! Gadberry
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