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Showing results for tags 'gasket'.
Found 16 results
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---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ---- Hey all!! This is a car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana and its my camper project.To be clear I haven't started this car in 2 years. I'm taking every preventative measure that I know of before I start this thing so I don't cause any extra damage. I was the last person to drive it 2 years ago and it was overheating a bit (or the gauge was saying it was), bubbles coming up through the overflow tank, we only drove it about 2-3 miles pulling off every few hundred feet to let it cool down and pour water in the radiator since its all we had. without having turned it on yet the head gaskets appear to be in tact and they were changed to MLS about 3 years ago, so I certainly hope I haven't blown anything from that small drive. Nothing crazy happened that I could tell, no loss of power or anything abnormal while I was driving it all seemed normal other than bubbles coming up through the overflow reservoir.Anyway my goal is to not damage anything else when I turn it on. When I changed the oil it was not milky and showed no signs of coolant mixing with the oil, it looked like normal oil and I don't quite know if I can say that that means I didn't blow a gasket so if anyone could tell me what else I should be worried about and from a visual inspection, the Valve/Rocker cover gaskets seemed to be dripping oil or maybe it dripped from somewhere else I'm not sure but again I'm taking every precaution I can other than super expensive overly involved repairs like a water pump, timing belt and head gaskets.other than advice for my general goal of getting this thing running without extra issues or at least turn it on and have it running well enough that I can identify bigger issues that require me taking it into the pros, I need help with the replacement of these valve/rocker cover gaskets.I am changing these valve/rocker cover gaskets, grommets and bushings out along with the spark plugs since ill be down there anyway.The owner service manual says I should put "fluid packing sealant" on the corners of the semi circular part of the covers and a couple other places. I have no clue what an appropriate amount of sealant is, and I'm not confident enough that the diagram from the service manual shows all of the right spots.So if someone could help me out and maybe provide a thread, video or personal advice on how to do this properly.Other precautions I'm taking before turning the key for the first time in 2 years (please help me add to the list or let me know what steps to do something properly:1. Oil change and oil filter change2. Drain old fuel from gas tank3. Drain old coolant and add new, as well as bleed system of air with radiator funnel kit.4. OEM thermostat replacement5. Replace spark plugs.6. Fogging oil sprayed in cylinders while spark plugs are out.Tell me what I'm missing and feel free to ask me to clarify anything I left out -
It’s kind of crazy to think how long I’ve been in the Subaru game and yet I’ve never replaced a 2.5 head gasket! I only want to deal with this repair once, hence this thread: I was under my wife’s 1999 Forester for an oil change over the weekend and noticed the bottom of the driver’s side of the engine was COVERED with engine oil. I had long suspected that it was the cam seal leaking, but the volume of oil and the area it covered has been slowly growing over the last few oil changes. A little research revealed that the EJ253 in this Forester likes to pop its head gasket and then leaks oil externally, which correlates with what I’m seeing. We lose about 1-2 quarts of oil between changes (I top it up often) but the engine doesn’t appear to burn any oil (no smoke out the tailpipe, hot or cold). The head gaskets were originally replaced at 78k miles (w/ P/N 11044AA633 head gaskets) and the engine now has about 205k miles on it now. We’re past due for a timing belt as well, so here is the list of parts that we’ve got so far: Timing Belt Parts: Timing belt Tensioner/idlers Crank pulley bolt Water pump & gasket Thermostat & gasket Cam seals F/R Crank seals A/C idler pulley Oil pump reseal/O-ring kit I’ve been doing a bunch of research on what else I should touch “while I’m in there.” In past posts @GeneralDisorder has suggested changing out the piston rings, installing knurled pistons and upgrading to a 10 mm oil pump. I will have the heads milled (if still in spec) but what else should I consider? Valvetrain work? Is there anything I can do to help oil drain back to keep the pistons from getting clogged? Head Gasket Parts: 770 head gaskets Exhaust manifold gaskets Intake manifold gaskets Valve cover gaskets Valve seals (int. & exh.) (I’ve read that the SOHC engines have a tendency to drop exhaust valve guides and that these should be knurled to keep them from dropping?) Sparkplug tube seals Valve cover bolt grommets Misc. Parts: Spark plugs Spark plug wires 10mm oil pump PCV valve Knock Sensor (original is cracked) Battery cables/tie down/j-bolts (battery terminals/tie down are fuzzy and have read this is a potential cause of driver’s side gasket failures) So, flame suit on, please let me know what you think of my parts list! Are there obvious omissions? Are there parts I could swap in for little expense that will help power/longevity (such as uprated camshafts, pistons, etc.?) Note, this isn’t a performance build, so I’m not thinking about forged, high-compression pistons or anything, but if there is an OEM piston that I could swap in that would provide a slight performance advantage, I would be interested in something like that, or Delta Cams, etc. How far away from a Frakenmotor would I be? Would an STI oil pan be something to install? -
Hello USMB! Our beloved EA81 chassis is now well over 30-years-old and the parts supply is rapidly disappearing. Rubber parts, specifically, are mostly gone. In fact, RockAuto only lists the front windshield gasket and, as of this post, there is a single gasket left to order. My proposal is that we, as a community, band together like we did for the Gen-1 windshield gasket group buy, and have a run of parts made for the EA81 chassis. Right now, I'm thinking of four parts: BRAT/wagon/sedan/hatch front windshield gasket Wagon rear windshield gasket Coupe front/rear windshield gasket The first part is common across the listed body styles, so that makes perfect sense to me. I feel like the EA81 wagon is the most common body style still on the road, so it would make sense to target that application as well. I'm not an expert and have done exactly zero research on that, but it's my gut feeling. Finally the coupe has unique front and rear windshield gaskets, so it would need its own specific parts. Based on the previous group buy, I would estimate the cost per gasket to be between $50-80. These would be BRAND NEW rubber parts, not some 30-year-old NOS that has been sitting on a dusty shelf for the last three decades. So, who is interested? The minimum order will likely be around 50-units, so I'd hope we can get close to that number of members committed to buying. If you have any questions, comments or general input, please reply below and I will update this post with the usernames of interested parties.
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I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission. -
Blast, double post. Moderator, please delete.
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I am ready to put the engine in, but first I need to install the oil pump. "Keep Your Subaru Alive" says to not to use gasket sealant when installing the oil pump. The surface the pump will attach to is scratched, is "no gasket sealant" still the best course of action? Hopefully, picture below
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I am replacing seals on the intake manifold of my 1992 Loyale with 187000 miles. The surface around the water passage is covered with some stuff that is hard to remove. What is it? Is it possible that they leveled the surface at the factory? Do you guys coat the new seal with something? RTV maybe? Sam
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I have been marooned for months now, living by my wits, doing evertything to save my Subaru Brat and my practical life. I have now succeeded in getting carb rebuilt, replacing water pump & almost a dozen gaskets, and other parts/ewprk/etc. Same problem persists.| Some months ago mechanic rebuilt carb, used two carb gaskets instead of one, after that water was spewing into carb, blew out whole water/coolant stystem, caused all kinds of problems. It has been HELL, and any other engine, I could not have got this far. Got it barely/technically running, was able to come into town, gtet supplies and to use wifi and post this. Not sure when I willo be able to c heck this post/thread/etc again, maybe tomorrow or soon, depending on all too many things. How is water still going into my carburetor?!? How can I stop it? Engine runs, very hard to start, for potentially obvious reasons. I suspect something wrong where the intakje manifold is concerned. There is a small coolant hose, about the size of a fuel line in diameter, going from one part of the manifold to another ver near each other near the distributor. Could that be it? Can I plug them up without causing serious danger or problems for engine? I have to stop this water from coming into my carb!!! Help ?!?!? -
Hey ya'll while taking apart my IAC I partially broke the gasket (it's useable, but super hard and now part of it is missing). I was curious 1) if it's supposed to be a non-flexible plastic or if mine is just really old. 2) Could I use a gasket maker to make a new gasket for it? I'd rather not go through the trouble of ordering a new gasket and waiting around for it to show it. would be awesome to grab some RED RTV and just do it today. Not sure about gasket maker cause I've never used it before. I've been reading on here, but couldn't find any solid info. Let me know what ya think or if gasket maker would be okay which one ya'll could recommend. Also! check out that new prof pic. GAMES GAMES vinyl on the GL now for free via school....
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Hey Gang, I just signed up. I'm new to Subaru's, but am not a newbie. I an experienced DIY wrench. I just bought (traded, really) a dead 1997 Outback wagon EJ25D from my brother in law for effectively $100. He bought it three years ago for his kids, but the engine coughed up a lung two weeks into ownership. The car began to miss on one cylinder and he limped it home. Professionals told him it was probably the timing belt. He parked it at the back of his driveway and there it has sat, until now. I'm starting a new business, and need a roof rack. The car spent the first 16 years of its life garaged in NYC, and it has only 80K miles. The interior is like new. The exterior is good, but could use a respray. This wagon IS WORTH FIXING. It has only 80K original miles on it. The Obie experts on YT, from my research, seem to suggest pulling the motor to fix the valves/timing belt/cogs/pulley issues. So that's the plan. I bought the Haynes manual and read it thoroughly. I've watched the Mike Bauer and Briansmobile1 video on YT. I've bought a good quality engine stand, and following Mike Bauer I've removed the battery, accessories, and the intake manifold yada yada yada. I've freed the exhaust manifold, the two motor mount nuts, and the four engine to bell housing nuts/bolts. Also freed are the four flywheel bolts. I've completed the list via the Haynes manual and am about to rent the hoist. And for your information when I pulled all four spark plugs I found that #3 was smashed in. Houston, we got a problem... Once the engine is on the stand I shall remove the DOHC heads carefully. I've found a local machine shop in Yonkers, NY, that claims to fix "...about ten of 'em [subaru cylinder heads] a week." The shop gave me some good instructions on how to remove the DOHC heads off the motor. The shop told they will call once their diagnosis is complete. I will have to choose what parts to buy, or perhaps a rebuild kit. This is where I'm open to advice from the gang here. I don't know if I will need new cam shafts, or just new valves and springs. I'm pondering if I should do a bottom end rebuild as well. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks. -King B. -
Hello, At work right now so my full research will start when I get home, but figured it would be nice to have some pointers of where to look in the forum ( keywords, etc) and maybe where to look on my car to better assist my research phase. **my 1998 subaru Outback 2.5l auto with about 130k miles popped check engine light. -Drove it about 12 miles, checked fluids ( oil, Brake fluid, trans , coolant ) all looked good. - pulled battery Cable to try and reset light in case it was a one time thing. -Reconnected battery, Started car , idled until temp guage started reading, still check engine light. -Turned off car fluid check again . . . oil was way low, looked under car, 0.5 + quarts dumped right under the car. seemed to be coming from Driver side left of engine above the lower Radiator hose connection behind the plastic cover that is behind the belts. Wondering if it ends up being a big issue if swapping from the 2.5 to the 2.2 is a common thing ? The research and Adventure now begins! Any thoughts, questions or pointers would be awesome. ( will be doing a photo bucket account or the like to get plenty of photos flowing :0)
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All: So I got the motor pulled yesterday!!! Thanks to everyone for all the help and great threads. Now the adventure begins. Clutch, oil sep plate, cam seals all on the list. I cannot find any thread on how to replace the drivers side rear cam seal. Anyone have any advice? Part numbers? 1995 Subaru Legacy L. EJ22. Not sure if leaking...or just spray from the valve cover leak...but planning to replace as many seals as I can while I have the motor out. Thanks, Tom -
All: I am the proud new owner of a 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon L. EJ22. Getting ready to pull the motor to replace the clutch and fix the wobble in the shifter. Any advice? While the motor is out does anyone have a list of things to change? I do have some oil leaks so I know the oil separator is on my list. In addition I see full gasket sets on eBay. Are those any good or do folks have a recommendation of which gaskets to use. Thanks in advance. Tom
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So I'm in the process of revamping my exhaust. I've taken the ASV brackets off of the exhaust manifold, and I'm going to extend my Y-pipes up to the engine itself without the brackets. I took the old crusty gaskets out, and I'm buying new ones. But all of the gaskets that it seems I can order are just simple rings, whereas the ones that I took off were the shape of the pipe flanges on my Y-pipes. My engine is an EA81 on my '83 BRAT. What kind of gaskets do you guys have at this spot? Will the simple, circular ones work? My whole point of working on the exhaust in the first place was to keep it from leaking right at this spot, so I want something that will hold well.
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Im looking to see if anyone has any awesome ways of repairing or re-sealing the gaskets on my t tops for my 86 brat. its seems they are leaking through the latch on the outer side. one on the locking latch as well in the middle. Id assume i could probably open them up and put sealant in there. but before i do that i am looking for the best ways to do it. -
Hi there, I've only owned my Subaru (92 legacy L-EJ22) since the end of April and I love it! But now its sad Had a small oil leak which I figured was the valve cover gaskets. In the process of changing them I made a VERY dumb mistake and loosened my head bolts inadvertently. I tightened them back up to spec, went ahead and did the valve gaskets, plugs and wires, and changed the oil. I now have smoke (steam?) coming up from under the passenger side head and A LOT of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Didn't see any bubbling in the reservoir but I might have just missed it. I have the gut feeling that I need to do the head gaskets and wanted some input. Thanks in advance!
