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Showing results for tags 'gaskets'.
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Hello everybody! Just a little background on my situation. I stumbled across a 1990 legacy for 600 bucks. Guy said he put in new tranny and had the engine out to replace seals and gaskets. Well 380 miles into my trip I stop and find I've lost 3 quarts of oil. Holy cow! Get home and see the oil pan and passenger side of engine has a thick coat of oil along withe a few drips of oIL on the underside of the timing belt cover. What are your thoughts on what might be my issue? M valve cover gaskets are clean and I can see that they are new. -
I'm new to this board, but I'm on several other ones. I need to know the answers to this problem quickly, please help! I'm doing the head gaskets on my 1998 Legacy Outback EJ25 DOHC. I've rounded off several of the cam cap bolts on the passenger side head because the metal is very soft. 1. How can I remove these bolts without getting metal shavings in my head? 2. What can I do to prevent having the same problem on the other head? Thanks in advance. -
Recently I noticed a burning oil smell when parking our 2003 VDC 3.0L H6 after a drive, despite not seeing evidence on the floor of my garage of any serious leak. Brought the car into our very good independent garage and they found (and I also saw) an oil leak, which they said was coming from the Valve Cover Gasket and the Front Timing Cover Gasket. Alldata Repair S3000 lists the Valve Cover Gasket as 2.7 hours labor for one bank, 3.5 hours to replace both banks, with parts coming in at $29.95 for the Right, and $29.95 for the left, and $9.95 for the inner. Alldata Repair S3000 lists the Timing Cover Gasket Replace Outer Cover as 2.7 hours labor and $375.30 total. He quoted $700 total for the full job. And they are usually the best guys in both quality and price not just in town but over a dozen nearby towns. Does this sound right? Any general recommendations for this repair? I didn't have time to do it that day. The tech must have tightened up the gasket, because the leak has been very slow. Counted not more than 5 drops hitting the floor of the garage in a 24 hour period, but no doubt you can't leave a repair like this hanging or you're asking for trouble so I plan to do it this week. I figured as long as we're in there, we'll have easy access to the spark plugs and since the car is at 118,500 miles, just 1500 miles shy of the 120K inspection when sparks should be changed, might not be a bad time to change them. Any recommendations for good spark plugs?- 9 replies
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Does anyone know where I could get a set of head gaskets for my (EJ253) 01' lego with the 2.5 SOHC, But I want to get a set of head gaskets for the turbo'd 2.5 and need to find a place to get them that would my 01' lego -
It's a 96 Legacy LS 2.2 L SOHC with 202,000 miles on it, and unsure of previous maintenance. It had a bad water pump, replaced water pump, timing belt, thermostat, wires/spark plugs, changed oil. It has a slow oil leak coming from the front passenger side of the engine, so I am planning to replace both cam seals, crank seal, and cam oring(s). It has a constant check engine light, it kicks the knock sensor code so I am planning to replace the knock sensor too. The battery terminals corrodes really fast, so I am planning on replacing the battery, battery cables and terminals as well. It seems to run great most of the time, but it sporadically will crank and not start (cranks fine, not slow or tired at all). I have tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting the battery in case of a sensor issue, and tried jumping it in case of low battery issue. Tried flooring it to start it as well. Previously, when it decides not to start, it won't start at all, but if I try to start it the next day, it'll start immediately. Last night I was out and it wasn't starting so i had my boyfriend bang on the fuel tank in case of a fuel pump/fuel filter issues. A few minutes after the fuel tank banging, it's started fine. It also sporadically has trouble responding to me depressing the gas pedal. I'll depress the pedal a bit more to accelerate, and it'll almost seem to do nothing, until I depress it a lot more, then suddenly the rpms will jump and it will suddenly start to accelerate. It seems to have this issue more when I am driving up hills. Other times it will maintain speeds of 40+ for a bit with my foot off the gas ans without decelerating much. So I believe that replacing the fuel pump and filter will fix the starting problem, and the acceleration issue. I am hoping that the acceleration problem is not the transmission. Do my proposed repairs align with the issues I'm having? And is there any other maintenance that would be recommended on my car since it's got so many miles and an unknown maintenance history?