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Found 5 results

  1. Ok Guys, Greetings from Chile. First time Loyale owner, 1989 1.8 ea82, carbed 5 MT /DR. Lots of previous owners, rough life and history. Lets hope any of the Gurus here can lend me a hand. A week after i got it, and without any signs of overheating head gasket on passanger side went off, just sitting iddle on the driveway . From there on it was engine out and rebuild, I have done the following so far: -Full gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, oilpan) -Resurface heads( usual cracks between the valves found, did nothing) -Polished piston cilinders (Cilinder N°3 had a broken ring and was scratched) -New rings -New timming belt kits -"New-ish" valves, couldnt find them brand new arround here ( a couple of the old ones had cracks in their heads, so they had to go) -Helicoil in sparkplug hole #1 and #4. -Helicoil and new studs on exhaust drivers side. -New filters all arround -New heating elements hoses. Oil and water pump havent been touched. Mechanich crash course it has been Took it to the emisison test, and it did not pass. Cilinder 1 was low on compression and running on 3 cilinders. TImming belt was off one tooth, fixed it...still wont pass...but almost. A little tinkering with the carb screws and presto, emission passed, now street legal. Took it on a highway and street test, all seemed fine, smoother than ever, little noise, Kinda torquey! and averaging 29 MPG Life seemed good! Yesterday on the ride home (some 40 miles up the mountains) Hot it went ( outside temp barely 60F)...halway up the road it felt kinda slugish, low on power, always kept it between 2.000 and 3.000 rpm range, and the needle kept creeping its way up, when it reached halfway mark i slowed down on the side of the road and it kep going up until the red zone...started praying and it went down Ha Ha, after that i let it sit, and then cheked all fluids, all was good.oil, coolant, everything... Kept driving her, and then again after a some 10 miles..Temp started going up again everytime a hill was on sight. Intake and exhaust hoses for the radiator, both hot and seem to be flowin ok. So here i am, with a freshly rebuilt ea82 that doesnt seem to wanna stay ...well...fresh nor cold.. Sooo...What could cause it to feel low on power, kinda draggy, and at the same time could cause overheating ? *It is Not, burning oil, drinking coolant, nor dripping in any excess way, there is a small oil leak from the oilpump pulley, and Hidraulic fluid leek from the steering as far as i can see. ** There is a kinda of rattling arround the 3.000 rpm mark, under load, like a tinggling, or bell-like sound.(maybe valve rattling)
  2. Hi, My 1990 american legacy wagon I've just bought has an over heating problem. It drives fine and the coolant temp stays slightly below the centre of the gage on all flat and downhill roads no matter how much you thrash it. It's only when I drive up a hill that it slowly starts to overheat. If I pull over and let it idle it will go back to the normal operating temp in less than a minute, as soon as I start driving up hill again it starts to overheat. It doesn't seem to matter how much I accelerate, it seems like the only thing that makes it heat up is going on the up hill slope. Does anyone have any clue what could cause this? Thanks
  3. The actuator for the vent system on my 1997 Brighton Legacy wagon has died and I am desperately looking for a replacement. My local Subaru dealer as well as my local mechanic have not been able to help so far. Does anyone have any suggestions? The mechanic is afraid if I keep driving on it, the door to the vent will fly off and damage something else.
  4. I have a 1988 DL, excellent shape, under 67k miles (really). This car sat for nearly 10 years mostly inside, some outside, and under a carport. It was just started and driven a couple of times a month. Lots of TLC has revived this little gem into my daily driver. Just recently, the R-134 converted A/C compressor and blower cuts out and just stops working while driving. None of the selector buttons or fan speed switchs work. Ocassionally, it will turn itself back on only to stop again the next day. I checked all fuses both under the drivers side dash and the two relays and fuse behind the passenger side strut tower under the hood. All check ok per the Haynes manual I have. I've not pulled the blower resistor block yet because when it does come back on, all fan speeds function. I have disassembled the dash and glove box area and removed the stereo looking for an additional relay that is mentioned in my Haynes manual, but can not locate it. Other than this invisible relay, I'm running out of ideas. Anyone had similiar problems? Could it be the selector button switches? I hear the vacuum system moving duct levers when the buttons are pressed. Is this something simple that I am overlooking or over analyzing? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  5. New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
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