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Found 15 results

  1. ,85 BRAT, Hitachi, 49 state, new fuel filters, old loud fuel pump, new front and rear fuel filters. The car will hesitate and lurch under certain conditions. If I let the car just idle still for a while, and then accelerate, there is not problem accelerating, until about 20 seconds into it, then the balking begins. The normal acceleration indicates to me that both carb barrels are working. I just drove this car up a 1/10 mile 7% incline several times. I let this car idle, still, at the bottom of the hill every time before I did the test. 2nd gear, 2,000 rpm, the car makes it up the hill just fine. 2nd gear, 2,500rpm, the car starts balking halfway up the hill. I am guessing the problem is the fuel pump, or the valve which fills the float bowl. Am I missing something?
  2. I'm hoping someone can help me with an issue I am having. I have an 86 brat with the Hitachi Carburetor, I removed the Carburetor and cleaned it and installed a rebuild kit (mainly gasket) every since then when it first starts running it'll idle Really high (3-4000 rpms) then it gets to where it wont idle at all ! another thing it's doing (may or may not be related ) when giving it gas it acts like it's either not getting gas or has a hesitation in it until you rev it up about 25-3000 rpms then it'll open up and take fuel and run like it should. Any advice ? I'm planning on taking the carb back off and tiring it back down but, wanted to hear everyone opinions of what it could be (or what to look for). Thanks for helping !
  3. I am in the middle of a carb swap from a carter-weber to a hitachi and I just got the new intake in but the vacuum line cp (hard vacuum lines under intake) are different. not sure what to connect to what. curious if anyone has a diagram or information. thanks
  4. Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?
  5. Hi guys Have inherited a 1990 brumby from my grandfather who passed last november. I absolutely have fallen head over heals in love with it. The 'brumble beast' had done 305 000 kms and has bugger all rust in it. Engine has been tinkered with by subaru 'specialists'. Ive noticed all the hitachi carb haters out there and I must say I love them! I have no mechanical experience at all but am very mechanically minded. I am determined to keep the hitachi however doing away with all the emissions garb. You guys have great pics etc however I'm in Australia and everything is backwards lol. Anyhow I'll post some pics and your guidance would be fab! Zeb
  6. G'day I'm Richo and I come from a small country town called Singleton in Australia. Great board you guys have here ! Today I fixed my craptachi vac secondary that had rigamortis in the closed position. I've only just bought the Brumby (Brat) from an old bloke (just retired) way out west and typically of grandpa cars the throttle cable was as slack as a 2 dollar hooker. Soooo... adjust the cable methinks and all will be well. Wrong. That didn't make a scrap of difference. Damn ! Next I whipped off the air cleaner for a look at the carb. The sight that greeted me made my jaw drop. In decades of messing with cars and bikes I have never EVER seen such a nightmare of hoses and pollution control garbage hanging off a poor old carb. In all honesty It would probably have been a half decent carby before it was covered in super glue and dropped in a snake pit. Yikes !! The 26 year old hoses were all as dry as a bone, cracked and leaking like a sieve. 30 minutes later I cracked a beer, cracked out the spanners and got cracking with 3 yards of new 3/8" vacuum hose. It took me the best part of an hour to cut new hoses and install them all. I also treated the carb body to a good blast of carb cleaner for good measure... so now all will be well right ? Wrong. Didn't make a scrap of difference... GAH ! Finally found the dirty vac leak after another 30 mins of chasing it down. The vacuum advance diaphragm on my distributor was dead and leaking air big time. I pulled the line from the advance unit and plugged it with a bolt (for now). Success !! The vac secondary works like a champ now its actually got vacuum for the first time in a decade haha. I was happy for about 10 minutes and then it dawned on me I had best take a look at the distrubutor as well. I still had a slight surging under acceleration and it didn't want to rev out to redline either. Long story short ... 3mm side play in the dizzy shaft and the rotor button and rotor cap are internally machining themselves to dust. I jury rigged it for now by filing down the metal rotor cap posts and dropping in a new rotor button. To say my ignition timing is erratic is a bit of an understatement. I've got a reman Cardmon one winging its way across the pacific as we speak (no-one sells rebuilt or aftermarket distributors here in Australia). Here's my Brumby Immediate plans: Replacing the muffler tomorrow, new 14" mags and muddies also turn up tomorrow. Arriving soon: 3-1/2" tach, iridium plugs, sports steering wheel + boss, new front CV's, 4 x 5-1/4" speakers for the doors, rocker cover gaskets, 80 channel UHF. Future plans: HD clutch, Weber carb, powdercoat bullbar and rollbar black, LED light bars for the bullbar and rollbar, massively upgrade the stereo. Cheers, Richo.
  7. I got a 1979 Subaru DL today. Unfortunately it is FWD and Automatic, but the price was right!!!!! It is having a couple problem probably from sitting for a year. When I start it it runs at idle for about 2 seconds then screams like I have my foot to the floor! I used a can do carb cleaner, checked the idle and mixture screw, checked air lines and don't see any problems. Could it just be that the float is not seating and the pump is just pouring gas? I drove it home 4 miles, started it and put it in gear it would take off and start racing, when it got going to fast I would shut off the key and let it slow down, then when I needed to go faster I would turn the key on and it would kick start even though it is an automatic. Hairy ride home but I made it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Hey guys I need some help. I used to have a 1980 brat but this seems like a slightly different ea71. So, i bought it and it has been pretty bad since I bought it. the previous owner replaced the cap and rotor as well as the ignition coil. I have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump (it was spraying gas everywhere), sprayed liberal amounts of carb cleaner and seafoam to clean carb out (it was quite dirty), replaced altenator (it died resulting in voltage regulator failure), Volatage regulator, and a couple of fuses that were blown or looked warped. I have a rebuild kit for the carb and I think this is what i need to do to get it to run right. I'm currently stuck because I don't have enough power to reach 30mph or go up the pass I need to. It smells rich and backfires. Looks like one of the jets isn't working? I am also planning on replacing wires and plugs. I have a spare carb off my old 80, but it need help too but at least it ran? Should I just swap it, would my kit work on rebuilding it and swapping? I can't seem to find a year specific diagram. This has the round airbox rather than the tire forming ones. Any help would be amazing thank you.
  9. Hello all !!, My Car Is a 1985 GL 10 wagon 5 speed dual range 4wd with the HITACHI CARB After finding a 57000 mile ea 82 with good compression,I got it to replace my 262k with a broken block. I took it all apart, NO cracks between the valves!!. Took heads for resurface and valve job/seals, cleaned and re sealed oil pump and disassembled all lifters,cleaned re assembled, and pumped up. Put all new gaskets on re assemble.I had to use my old 2 wire distributor(see post )(HELP! 2 wire distributor). I ended up rebuilding the vacuum advance.MY PROBLEM IS the engine now stumbles HARD after 3000 rpms under any load.The engine will idle around 800,and rev up pretty good with no load,but shakes a little at idle,and it seems to "bind" a little when cranking,the timing is 8*btdc. I do not know whether to blame vacuum or distributor??I have re built the carb and cleaned it out real good. I used Indian head gasket sealer(it was old,but looked fine, it was liquid like new) for the intake gaskets and the carb base gaskets and spacer.As for the distributor,I COMPLETELY disassembled it to clean it and free up the advance plate.I did notice some wear from the counter weights on the inside of the disty housing,but it did not have any wobble or play I could feel.I have deleted the egr since this ea82 (1989) has no place on heads for it,and plugged the lines I cant figure out.I do not want to spend 250$ for a new disty if that is not the problem....How do I diagnose the issues? Do I need a vacuum gauge? I'm stuck................Any help is GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks for looking..............And I still have some extra parts I cant use from this '89 model.....1)Optical 4 wire disty w/cap ..1) intake for throttle body injection ..1) throttle body carb? injector ..1) Power steering pump.
  10. howdy all, am going to try and resurrect my 83 wagon which has been sitting since 2008. (i have spent time poring over previous pertinent threads seeing if this has already been adequately addressed, but did not find what i am looking for) when last running, "olive" had developed a problem in which she would fire up and idle just fine, but had no power and would not accelerate beyond a crawl. i am no mechanic, back in earlier days i learnt how to replace the clutch, axles, steering knuckles, but not much beyond that, my pal joe, who gave me olive, and i spent three hot days trying three different c-w carbs to see if we could affect a cure, but gave up, i left her parked and jumped on my bicycle and the bus for a few years until i found an 84 2wd sw ("silver car") locally for $800, which served me beyond the call of duty until she blew a head gasket on the james river parkway south of springfield, coming back from the eastern ozarks sunday evening. i managed to limp silver car adding water every 15 miles to get to the oklahoma border and within range of a free AAA tow back to tulsa (the gasket blew a hole between the water jacket and the exhaust, so no water in oil yet, but there is something knocking, perhaps a lifter, when started). anyhow, the next door neighbor came over having heard the tow truck come in and offered his services as a shade tree wrencher, since olive was sitting back in back with the mysterious ailment above mentioned, he thought it would be cheaper and easier to get her running again rather than trying to fix silver car which will need the engine pulled regardless. he spent the last two afternoons working on olive, he established that the fuel pump was working and fuel getting through the filters to the carb, and has dissasembled both c-w carbs and found the accelerator pump diaphragms on both to be rotted/perforated and thinks that may be the source of the no power/stall issue. am now waiting for surfside aauto parts to call about a new accelerator pump i ordered yesterday. meanwhile, the reading i have done on this board leaves me with the impression that the carter weber is a problematic unit, and i never did get very good gas mileage out of it, whereas the hitachi on silver car, even in the neglected state i allowed her to be in had delivered 28 mpg on the tank i used getting over to the ozarks. ok, so enough background ramble, the thesis question is, can i switch carbs from the 84 to the 83, and what all is involved? there is extensive documentation about fitting ea81 with SPFI, but i do not have interest or locally obtainable resources for that, but i do have both cars. i am thinking the dizzys may be paired to each carb, but are the manifolds and wiring different? as the carter seems to be a problem, and the hitachi seems to deliver better mpg and is much more widely available, i think the detailed discussion may be of use to others in the future. finally there is the chance that another part/function/system other that the fuel/carburetor may be the problem causing the idle fine but no get up and go that i last experienced when i parked olive six years ago. please help, this is not a leisurely project, being broke down right now is extremely destablising, i have had a challenging year of transition, and have only began to get on my feet, as recently as three weeks ago experienced being flat broke for the first time in years and really need to be able to get around to take care of some pressing tasks. i had planned to be spending this week running loads and assembling a multi ton uhaul load of vintage records to haul up to kansas. the title says it all in a nutshell, but i am also looking for insight about the c-w, i am so hoping just replacing the accelerator pump will fix the issue. thanks for any reply, and for being here to ask!
  11. Overview: If your stock carbureted Subaru EA engine feels Gutless, slower than it used to be, and some times, it overreacts during acceleration and sounds louder while your subie runs like a bat out of hell, and the Hitachi Carburetor has a Vacuum Operated Secondary (high) Stage; I Bet that the Vacuum actuator that activates it, is failing. Even with non failing vacuum activated secondaries; I've made Mechanical Conversions on those carburetors, always with Great Results. The Difference between the Vacuum operated and the Mechanically operated Secondaries (high) Stages, lies in the Moment for Reaction, and how the engine reacts to your acceleration behaviour; let me explain: In the vacuum operated carbs, the Secondary (high) Stage which gives the "Power", will work depending on the engine's vacuum; which depends on RPMs, and thus means that it will work accelerating indirectly; while on the Mechanically operated carbs, the "Power" is always there, to react at your very will, each time you press the Gas Pedal, and thus means that the acceleration is Directly. The mechanically activated secondary (High) stage on the Weber carburators and its Robust, pure smart simplicity, are the main factors why a Weber Carb is super desirable on the Carburated EA engines; it also helps you to get rid of tons of unuseful things from the crowded engine bay... on those states in USA with not too restrictive laws, regarding pollution control. But if you can't afford a Weber carb, or don't want to do ~► the Weber Carb Swap Job, then a Mechanical Conversion on your Hitachi Carb will help your ride to be more reactive to your accelerating behaviour. There is absolutely No Downsides with such Mechanical Conversion on the Carburator, if it is Done properly. How to do the Mechanical Conversion: Prior to explain that, I must say this: If you really don't understand and don't have too much mechanical experience, then I kindly suggest you to Ask to a Qualified Mechanic with Knowledge / Experience in Carburetors, to do that Mechanical Conversion for you, instead of trying it by yourself; because to instal a badly assembled / damaged carb, could be pretty Dangerous in many different ways, so Be Careful! (Disclaimer: Use all the info I post, at your own Risk) Basically talking, the Mechanical conversion is done at follows: ► Remove the Vacuum actuator attached to the secondary (High) Stage, along all its hardware, ► close any open threads with screws; ► then attach a piece of hard, inox wire, firmly secured to the mechanism that opens the primary (low) stage Butterfly, which is directly connected to the accelerator plate, (in the other side) where the accelerator cable goes. ► Then, Twist that wire giving to it the shape of a Hook or a curved finger that wanna pull something, in order to let the primary (low) stage butterfly, to touch and move the mechanism that moves the Secondary (High) stage Butterfly, just after the primary (low) has been moved and it reached around its Half (50%) opening. You must "Calibrate" that movement on the Secondary (High) stage, by twisting the Wire, in order to achieve Full Opening of Both Butterflies when the Accelerator Plate is at fully acceleration (Maximum) which equals to the Gas Pedal being floored, and also the Secondary (High) Stage butterfly shall remain completely closed, during the first half movement from the primary (low) stage butterfly. Let me Show you a Short Video that Demonstrates how it Works: Here is an easy Repair guide for those Hitachi Carburetors, plenty of pictures (Not mine, Found it online) Download it here: ~► Hitachi 2 Barrel Carburetors Visual Repair Guide If you find useful information here, let me Know by hitting the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.
  12. Hello all, So as of a few weeks ago, the idle on my '86 Brat dropped so low (to less than 100) that she'd stall after a couple of seconds at idle. However, when driving, performance is normal. I Imagine I'm going to have to take a look at the carb, there are various leaks, and I'm sure it's got a lot of gunk stuck in emulsion tubes...etc.. While I've never rebuilt / cleaned out a carb before, I know someone who's very good at it, and that will be helping me. Until then though, did some experimentation and developed a little quick fix that I'm not quite sure about being legit, but the result is an idle of about 1000. Here's what I did: In the picture above, noticed that there's a vacuum hose attached to some kind of thing-a-majiger (circled) that when the car is on, opens the throttle a bit. To get the car to idle again, basically fooled around with this, so that it opens the throttle more. Ended up moving the washer (orange arrow) to the other side of the bracket holding it and loosening the nut to shorten the arm that pulls on the throttle. Now it idles at about 1000. So my questions are: ... what is this thing? ...Is it part of the idle control? It was just a wild guess to adjust it like that. ...Is it safe for the engine to do this until I'm able to clean out the carb? ...and are there any other reasons why that would be causing her not to idle, but perform fairly well when driving? Thanks guys!
  13. I know it's been asked before, and I've read the responses, but I'm still at a loss. My 83 Brat has an intermittent problem of stumbling upon acceleration. It occurs whether the car is warm or cold. It seems to stumble only with slow acceleration and if I step on it, it surges and opens up, feels smooth. Doesn't seem to lack power overall and idles decently enough once it's warmed up. Stock Hitachi carb. So far, in attempt to fix this issue and just because it needed it, I have replaced both fuel filters, air filter, spark plug wires, spark plugs(with new NGK, properly gapped), new distributor, put a bunch of heet and seafoam through it to clean out any gunk or water and checked for vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses (no change in idle speed noted). I also only run 89 octane or higher fuel. Im thinking it could be a partially clogged jet in the carb. Maybe some other jet opens up with more throttle and thats why it only occurs at low throttle. I haven't opened up a hitachi, but I would be willing to rebuild it if that would help. And no, I'm not getting a Weber. I've gotten 31 mpg with the Hitachi properly tuned. Any advice would be appreciated. Let me know if more info is needed. Thanks yall.
  14. So I am rebuilding the ol' Hitachi and the top half looks great. Figured I'd pull the bottom portion to replace the gaskets because that is where I am positive a leak was coming from and after pulling it apart found that the thicker gasket that is wedged between the two smaller gaskets for the base has a crack in it. Anyone know if it is possible to get a replacement "thick" gasket for the base of these? My rebuild kit did not come with a new one only the two thin bottom portion gaskets. Uploaded with ImageShack.us The Break Uploaded with ImageShack.us The thickness. Two thin gaskets go on each side of this larger one. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Macgyvering very encouraged as I would like to get her up and running asap.
  15. The Ignition Module is the Electronic Part that Substituted the Points inside the Distribuitor; it usually consist in two parts: One Pick up the Signal and the other sends the Pulses to the Ignition Coil. How you Test an Ignition Module? This Test was Done with the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, from a Carburated EA82 Subaru Engine, from the 2WD version; but this test is pretty Standard. This is the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, without its Cap, so you can see its Interior: The Red Part is the Rotor, while the Two Black plastic covers under it, hides the Two Parts that conforms the Ignition Module, they only have two Wires Between them and other two wires that goes outside from one of them, to the Ignition Coil. To do the Test, You'll Need: - A Good 12V Battery and Jumper Wires to use its Power. - The Distribuitor with its Rotor & Ignition Module inside. - The Ignition Coil. - A Sparkplug's Wire. - A Sparkplug. The Distribuitor has two Wires that comes from the Ignition Module, one is Black with White Stripe, this is the Positive (+) while the Yellow one is the Ground (-) or Negative one. The Easy Test Procedure goes as Follows: If you Turn Manually the Distribuitor's Gear under it, Two things Might Happens: ► Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Good Ignition Module. ► No Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Dead Ignition Module. But you MUST Double Check that you have done Right the Connections. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.
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