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Found 12 results

  1. Hi first post, EA81engine. Been having issues with the car sputtering and then eventually stalling. All runs fine when its cold but once its warmed up the revs go up and down and acceleration is rough, backfiring and stalling at stops. So far I've changed the -ignition coil, leads, air filter, fuel filter, even adjusted the idle to no success and sprayed the carby with cleaner a few times. Checked vacuum hoses, distributor looks clean. What else could I check/be the issue here? Help please.
  2. Anybody have any experience converting the EA81 Quad Headlight setup over to the EA81 Single Headlights with Cyclops? Or know of a writeup? Believe that I have everything needed: Single Headlight Core Support Single Headlight Buckets/Bulbs Single Headlight Bezels with Turn Signals and Pigtails Third Eye (Cyclops) Full Assembly with Pigtail Third Eye Grill Relays that sit on the passenger side (RH) strut tower Third Eye Switch from factory that's used with the HighBeams on. Part that's confusing me is how the wiring goes from twin lights, one for low and one for high beam, to single units that do both functions. Guessing that the turn signal wiring that goes to the front bumper will have to be rerouted so they will go to the corner flashers of the Single Headlight Style. And then there is adding the Third Eye to the equation... The easiest method in my head; Take the entire front harness from an '82. Place that harness in the body of the '86. (thats the year of the EA81 chassis its going into.) Not sure if the connectors between those years are the same or if they were changed? I have an '82 that is badly rusted and is more like a donor vehicle. Ideally would take the cyclops light setup from it and put it on the '86 which is still structurally sound.
  3. So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
  4. Hi guys, I'm new here and will definitely stay active. Recently bought a 89' Leone Wagon, called L Series over here in Australia and absolutely loving it for my daily drive. I'm trying to restore it as much as I can so I'll keep everyone updated with progress pictures! I'm in need of new tyres, and saw this wagon (NOTE: Not my car), and want these exact same tyres. Anyone have an idea on the exact size of them? I'm currently rolling on 13" rims. Thanks in advance!
  5. kaszlarz

    Subaru Leone GLF aka FakeAE86

    BRAND: Subaru MODEL: 1800 GLF Leone 83' ENGINE: EA81 NA Intake system: custom intake to adopt throttle body from EJ22 + BLOS LPG EXHAUST catless ,and no restriction muffler ELECTRONICS: Electric mirrors, Lambda, an additional radiator fan switch TRANSMISSION: Manual 4 gears, conversion to RWD, differential LSD SUSPENSION: Front McPerson with springs from BMW E32, rear torsion bar with new mounting holes (for lowering) and shocks from VW T4 BRAKES: Stock BODY-KIT: no WHEELS / TYRES: Rims original with 4x140, tires 175 / 60R13 INSIDE: Velour brightly colored coffee CAR-AUDIO: Original Radio CD Speakers enough 2x with one Rema HiFi column OTHER: Installation of LPG BRC with cylindrical tank 35L located on the back. Aluminium fuel tank 25L Evaporator BRC AT90. BLOS PLANS: efi convert [video=youtube]
  6. Just finished up some engine swapping and have an extra EA82 engine and a lot of engine parts. Including: - Short block 100$ OBO (NOT rebuilt. about 150k miles, cylinders are clean almost no ridge, was running, doesn't even need rebuild - just put back together) - Heads 25$ each OBO (needs valve job) - Long block 140$ OBO - Oil pump - Water pump - All pulleys - Valve covers - Some timing belt covers and the tensioners - Flywheel - Oil pan -Engine mounts - Ask if you don't see the part you're looking for, I may have it NO -Alternator - Intake manifold - Carburetor - Transmission - Radiator - Power steering - AC - Distributor email chasewell@gmail.com I can give you pictures or more history or information about any of these parts. Suggest a price for the little stuff if you are interested, let me know if you want the engine for a different price and we will discuss (via email)
  7. HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED. Yesterday, I discovered the green connector for CEL testing has been plugged in forever. i unplugged it, and proceeded to do what I know, in order to read the check engine light. The oxygen monitor showed codes 21(coolant temp sensor), 24(idle air control valve or circuit) and 34(EGR solenoid or circuit). It got dark, so I went inside and proceeded to look online for a replacement IACV gasket, so I can clean it. I also looked at an EGR solenoid and planned on cleaning the EGR today. When I went to start my car this morning, it fired but died immediately, and I knew something was wrong. One more start and die, and without pumping the throttle or having it wide open, the car just cranked and didnt fire. What the heck? So I read the codes again, and nothing had changed. As far as I know the only thing I did was make a red light blink, so i'm a little confused. Is it possible that the car is acting up because the ECU "didnt know" about the bad egr and iacv until i put it in test mode? before having gone inside last night i started the car, and it RAN FINE. Again, what the heck? Does anyone have any ideas? car has always had idle issues, and at one point an ignition coil that arced to the negative ground. ask me questions and i will answer, but so far, thats what i got. Thank you guys in advance. -walker
  8. So, I bought a 1990 Loyale coupe in early January. I have to admit, though, I'm not too terribly knowledgeable about the Loyale RS, or the Loyale in general, so I'm really just looking for any info I can get on this particular car, which has been less than forthcoming on the Googles. I suppose it might help if you knew what I was planning on using it for? Autocross. More specifically, running in H Stock (for you SCCA peoples). It's a five speed, naturally aspirated with that funny push button 4WD option. If you'd be so kind, could you learn me a bit about my car?
  9. Last week I finally took possession of a 1989 RX coupe with 74,270 miles on the odometer. I have decided to name her Ruth after her original owner. The car was purchased new in New Hampshire, and I bought her from the original owner's granddaughter in Washington, DC. Ruth is pretty solid overall, and the interior is immaculate but for two holes in the driver's side headrest and a bit of wear to the trunk carpet. I've decided to get her back on the road and clean her up to the extent I can without going broke. I wanted to take Ruth to Carlisle, PA this past weekend, so I launched into a flurry of activity to make sure she was roadworthy. The front brakes turned out to be completely shot, but the calipers moved easily and worked fine, so all I needed were rotors and pads. The rear pads and rotors need replacement, but they could wait. I ordered a full set of rotors and pads from my local Subaru dealership; apparently I got the last set of NOS rear pads in the country. While driving home, I noticed that the temp gauge didn't work. When I checked the connector, the terminal popped right off. Unfortunately, the dealer ordered the wrong temp sensor, so I had to improvise. The copper wire was still lodged in the sensor, and there was just enough length to crimp on a connector from my toolbox. Not ideal, but it worked. Now I can replace the sensor at my leisure. Next up: the passenger outer CV boot was completely gone, and the bearings were clacking around in the race. When I got home with the replacement drive axle, I discovered that the crown nut had been crossthreaded so badly that it was unusable. I packed grease into the joint and jury-rigged two boots I cut off of old Forester axles, tying them together with twine and reusing the metal clamp near the hub. This somehow lasted 62 miles before disintegrating in spectacular fashion. Surprisingly, it was the metal band that failed - the twine had held together and had to be cut away to remove what was left of the boots. I drove another 200 to Carlisle and back to DC with a completely bare outer joint. The last thing I checked before taking Ruth on the highway was the timing belt. The belt itself looked good, but it was frighteningly loose. I was about to give up on driving her to the show, but then I discovered that the tensioners on the ea82 are manual, not hydraulic. And there are even access holes to reach the bolts for the pulleys! Ten minutes later, the belts were nice and snug. I started to feel nervous when I felt some nasty vibration from the outer CV joint around 65mph, but I discovered that it smoothed out above 75. Cruised all the way there and back at 75-80, grinning like a madman the whole way. Among the highlights at Carlisle was meeting Nipper, whose posts on all these Subaru boards I've been reading for years now. Also loved seeing his CVT-powered Justy. My biggest problem now is some odd noise from the rear suspension, along with left rear camber that is not exactly within factory specs. I suspect it might have something to do with this: The worst area of rust is the rear crossmember. If anyone has a replacement in good condition or knows where to find one, please let me know. I'm not terribly keen on the rear suspension falling apart while I'm driving. I also need new bumper beams front and rear, because the front is bent from a small accident, and the rear is more rust than metal. I'm holding out hope that the plastic bumper covers will be reusable. In the 250-odd miles I've driven, I have fallen completely in love with this car. It's small, sprightly for its age, and like few other cars on the road in my neck of the woods. I am grateful for any assistance I might receive here, and I hope to keep you posted while I return Ruth to her former glory.
  10. I have a 1986 Subaru Leone fitted with a MPFI EA82T. Here the other day the engine kept "dying" shortly after it was fired up After a long session of troubleshooting, I managed to narrow the problem down to the ECM. It seemed though as it didn't manage to give the proper grounding to the fuel pump. I tested this by providing the grounding from the "outside" of the ECM. With this the engine ran smoothly and was on the verge of stopping only when the grounding was removed. So the problem appears to be the ECM which I now have to replace. The spare-ECM comes from a slighly older Leone with a non-turbo MPFI EA82. Some of the partsnumbers on the on the module itself is different.(Check the pictures) But the connectors are all the same. My question then is whether or not it is a smart idea to use the spare-ECM. Any ideas? Turbo ECM Non-Turbo ECM
  11. I'll Try my Best to Shorten this Very Long Story: Today, I Was Drivin' my Weberized "BumbleBeast" Wagon in the Parking Lot of a Huge Shoppin' Mall, when an Old Gentleman Started to Yell at me: "Stop!, Hey You Stop!" ... ... He Took me by Surprise and I Was about to Park my Wagon nearby, so I Did it and the old man approached Saying: "...That's a Really Beautiful Old Subaru you Have..." and he Started to ask me Questions about How did I manage to Fit Those "Standard" wheels in my Subie, also about the Engine's Deep & Loud Sound; Very Kindly I explained some Details... "Weber Carb, I Knew it!" he Said... Long Story Short: He accompanied me to do my errands while we were Talking about Old Subarus for almost the whole afternoon... even we ate lunch Together. He said that He was the Master Mechanic at the Local Subaru Dealer's Repair Shop Long time Ago (Late 1970's to Late 1980's) and he had the opportunity to go in 1983 to FHi in Japan for Training Purposes. Also he Said that at the Training's end, the Japaneses took the Students for a some sort of "Tour" around their Factories, including their Research & Development areas; he saw some Prototypes and some Engines; also some sort of museum and many other Things... He Said that the Third Gen Subaru Leone (Usually Known here as "Loyale" or EA82) was ready to be sold since 1983 but the Japaneses wanted a New Engine to suit the New Car before Launch it Worldwide. Well, Looking to the Subaru's History, you can Confirm the date of the first prototype of that Model... ...they were in the Development of the New Engine for that car; He said that they originally wanted to have a 2.0L Engine to be their "Top of the Line" propulsion for that Model, and the Developments were going on that Way, having the USA Market on Mind as their First Costumer who demanded \ wanted / needed more power from their compact cars. They Already got the EA81 that was a 1.8L engine so, to Make a Newer EA Engine with the Same Displacement does not make any Sense, Right? But their Problems were two: First the SOA's Old Campaign that sounded since 1975: 'Inexpensive, and built to stay that way' broke part of their enthusiasm as the Bigger Displacement engine would Killed the "Stay inexpensive" Idea by increasing Fuel Consumption numbers in EPA charts and somehow increasing import taxes... And Second: the EA Engine Design Platform was Pushed somehow to its Limits... especially with the addition of a Turbo as they where already selling Turbo MPFi versions of the EA81 in Japan since late 1982. So, the Japaneses downgraded the Prototype EA91 engine by destroking it, and Built the EA82 as we Know it, Basically Their novelty was limited to the implementation of Timing Belts ... ... and using the SOHC designation which was in fashion, along with the "Turbo" word, on the 80's. The Old Man Shared many more Stories with me, but the one about the 2.0L EA engine in the Original Prototypes (Codenamed EA91) of the Third Gen Leone, was the Most interesting to Share here... After some errands together and an awesome lunch time, we've talked for hours, He Left the Place with a Big Smile in his Face, going to do what I Did with my Subaru "BumbleBeast": to Change the 4x140 Lug Pattern, redrilling the hubs to let fit "Standard" 4x114.3 wheels on his Old Subaru Leone... Kind Regards.
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