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Found 5 results

  1. Just bought a 1998 Legacy Outback from a lady who told me she could not longer drive a stick due to foot surgery. Car has been idle for about 2 months. She assured me there is nothing wrong with it. It misses both at idle and acceleration and check engine light starts flashing. I put in fuel injector cleaner 2 times Auto Zone scan says misfire on all 4 cylinders and EGR valve, but EGR seems OK. I have replace the fuel filter and crank sensor. Also, it did not want to take gas when I tried to fill the tank. Couldn't put more than 10 cents in before it tried to overflow. Did I get screwed?
  2. My 06 WRX wagon with 43K doesn't see many miles and most of my maintenance is done on the 'time' side of the schedule. It came from the factory with Iridium plugs. Recently, it has begun intermittently making a 'chk' sound and I can feel the car jerk very slightly. No CEL. I waited till the tank was nearly empty, put in some SeaFoam and filled it up. No help, No CEL. It may be on its 3rd or 4th tank so, I doubt it's a fuel issue. I did pull the MAF connector to force a CEL so I could get FreezeFrame data with my scanner. Fuel trims were all low single digits (dunno what else I should look for there) This weekend, I swapped out the plugs. And of course, all four I removed 'look' pretty good. Sigh - well, I have new plugs in even though the old ones probably had another 20K or more life in them. Car still has the miss. It is very random. never seems to do 2 in quick succession, and there could be one, followed by another in 300 yards, or it might be a mile. I have an 11 mile commute on side streets. I have heard it at idle maybe 2 times. I THINK I've heard it decelerating 3-4 times. Of course, at high RPM I can't really hear anything so, not sure if it's happening. But cruising around at 1800 to 3 K or so, it could happen 10-20 times on the way home. so, I figure I may as well ask what you guys what you think. If I were gonna change something, what would it be (crank angle sensor ?) or even take it to a dealer (what would they be able to do?) I'd really rather not just wait until a CEL comes on or something breaks.
  3. A few days ago, all of a sudden, I noticed a very low (400-600 rpm), shaky idling issue coupled with terrible gas mileage... Today it started stalling at every stop unless I give it gas. I believe cylinders 2 and 4 are missing, though it's hard to tell because the idle is constantly fluctuating and randomly stalling. When I get into gear the engine runs fine (still crappy MPG) and when the choke is on it runs fine. I have new Bosch spark plugs and NGK wires replaced less than 200 miles ago. New fuel filter. Cleaned the crap out of the carb. I pulled the plugs and they look normal. Wires are certainly carrying a charge. No random arcs. No visible crack in distributer cap, terminals look fine. Pretty sure there is no vacuum leak but I'm about to do a carburetor cleaner spray check. Head gaskets look fine, no coolant leak or anything. Could this be a problem with the ignition coil pack? I planned on picking up a better one anyways, hopefully tomorrow. Could this be a thermostat issue? I flushed the radiator not long ago, I'm sure the current thermostat is 166,000 miles old. PCV valve maybe? What other checks/cleaning should I do before I go on a random part-buying rampage with money I don't have?? I certainly won't be driving this thing until I figure it out. Thanks
  4. Hello All, I have an 84 brat turbo, which the car dies after driving, very intermittent, A quick Key off, on will get it going again. it idles for a few minutes then just shuts off. I replaced the computer, mass air flow, Distributor. I recently replaced the transmission. the car sat for a few months with the key accidentally left on (battery dead) after the automatic tranny swap, it had 2 bad injector coils. two injectors replaced, it would run, but had a bad miss at various rpms. so I ordered a remanufactured computer ecu. this did not fix it I then unplugged the mass air flow. it ran better, but not right, so I bought a remanufactured MAF. this made it a little better, I then replaced the entire distributor, no change. I unhooked the knock sensor unit, unplugged the altitude sensor, etc eliminated every electronic component I could still intermittent acts up. It does this with the anti knock control unit unplugged.(car will run without it) It idles better with the Mass Air flow unit unplugged as well. I measured all wiring from engine side of wire harness to the ECU, nothing measures bad. UGGGG!!! at this point. Tomorrow I plan on replacing the coil, and fuel pump. seems to act up when I hit a bump on a right hand turn. also, with headlights off it runs better. Im thinking either the fuel pump is getting knocked and acts up, Coil may be getting hot and drawing more current, or alternator is acting up when hot. Car runs with battery terminals unhooked, so I know alternator is charging. I will ultimately fix it and post my findings. I still love my little money pit.....BTW also has a new turbo....wheel bearings, got a small fortune in it.... I named it Johnny Cash..... one piece at a time....only wish it didn't cost me a dime... Bill https://www.facebook.com/bill.sherman.58
  5. I have noticed some missing in my 2006 WRX lately and, even though miles are low, according the the 'time' side of the schedule, it may need new plugs so, I ordered some. any hints, tips or warnings for pulling the wire boots, changing the plugs, access, etc. appreciated. anything else nearby I should inspect or change? thanx guys
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