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Showing results for tags 'neutral switch'.
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suprunner posted a topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXHi all, '98 OBW, 2.5L high compression build, 5MT After moving to Las Vegas, Nevada about two years ago, I've finally begun wanting to use my air conditioning system. Before moving down here, I had a mechanic pull vacuum on the system and charge it. I think he put in less than 2 lbs? It was a very minimal amount. Here are the symptoms that I'm experiencing. Blows cold while driving, and cool while idling. While driving, when the A/C compressor kicks on, there is a VERY noticeable decrease in performance... almost like I've instantaneously been loaded with a 700 lb 4x8 U-Haul trailer...It'll buck/shake the car slightly. I know I've read multiple times on the forum that the A/C can rob power, but this seems exceptional. The motor has good compression (in the 200s) and has lots of power when not using A/C. I am in the habit of turning the A/C off when accelerating from stops. With this amount of strain placed on the motor though, why doesn't it just stall out when idling? The motor doesn't stumble or strain when cycling the A/C on/off while idling. What's the deal? I've checked the gap on the clutch, and it seems to be within specifications. It also appears that this clutch isn't replaceable? I've looked at the different write-ups on this forum, and the videos available, but NONE of them show the type of compressor that mine has... The Triangle with the 3 circular pieces and the single bolt in the center... I've attached the pressure gauge from one of those auto-store recharge kits, and supposedly the system is topped-off. Does this have anything to do with my neutral switch? I've checked my Short Term/Long term fuel trims while idling and I think I don't have a vacuum leak, as they're in the negatives. I'm just worried that I'm going to jump timing because of the instantaneous loading that is presenting, or the A/C is going to catabolize itself while driving and having to replace EVERY part of the system. Thanks for your time, Greg
2002 H6 3.0 auto won't crank. For the last month when the car gets warm it would not start (just silence). Always started after sitting overnight. Now with the weather getting warm, after sitting for a day and a half its just silence apart from fuel pump and starter relay click, dash lights good. Tried a jump and still nothing. Narrowed it down to the inhibitor switch (in a MT this is called the neutral safety switch). Sits on the passenger side of the transmission and provides a short in P and N gear selections to allow the starter to crank. You can fool it into starting by shorting two pins together with a small paper clip. Connector is on top of the transmission just ahead of the firewall. T3/B12 pins 11-12. Looks like a new inhibitor switch is needed. Rear backup light also does not work and the dash gear shift position indicator lights are wonky. Problem is now my gear shift is locked I think because of my tinkering. I can unlock it by sticking a paper clip in the little hole to the right of the shifter...but what else is going on? I started the car with T3/B12 disconnected (despite a sudden electrical buzzing sound from underneath the car with the key in run position). Does the TCU get upset with B12 unmated and lock the shifter? How do I clear this? Reset the TCU/ECU or will it clear itself once the inhibitor switch is replaced and the car can start normally... code 852 is the neutral switch input circuit high