Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'non turbo'.
Found 3 results
Help!!! Had a severed wire in trans when pan pulled. Blue wire going solenoid in bottom when pan was pulled. Reconnected the wire connector broke but have rechecked since and is fine, was reading the torque convertor solenoid voltage code, went away when vehicle started. Have EGR code now but trans only drives in 1st and 2nd gear. If it shifts to 3rd which is rare, slips all the way. When lifting car letting it engage 1st or second gear when hitting brakes (all new hardware) torque convertor. Sounds like a bunch of bolts rattling around or a heat shield loose type of sound. Where do I start? Pulling trans now, but need fixed now and have very little money. 96 outback 2.5 4eat. Also gear shifter does not line up with gear selected. Reverse is N, drive is 3 no real click between 1 and 2 on shift lever.
I am nearly at my wit's end with my '09. 2.5i non-turbo. I bought it in January 2016 with 203,000 on it (All highway, original owner, full maint log, good shape, ran great). Noticed it had a significant oil leak from both heads (head gaskets, external oil leak) Pulled motor this fall, resurfaced both block and head with the manual block-sanding method, installed new gaskets, torqued as per specification, reinstalled motor. Noted oil on plug wires, replaced valve cover gaskets and got cheap auto-parts store wires* (we'll come back to this shortly), installed new NGK iridium plugs. Reset valve clearance to stock (was slightly loose by a few thou on most valves) Shortly after getting it back together it got a flashing MIL on hard acceleration (misfire codes on cyls 1 and 2 (P0301, P0302)). Didn't really feel the misfire however, it is very faint and only noticable under full throttle, light throttle to redline and you can't feel it, sometimes the mil will flash on part throttle pulls, but will ALWAYS on full throttle pulls.then the light goes out, only comes back if I push it over 4000 and over 1/2 throttle, enough of these will result in it staying on and getting the flashing cruise control (perm codes set) Figure well the coil is probably ancient, I just changed the wires, with the HG job, so lets replace the coil. NO CHANGE So I tried a new set of plugs (NGK iridiums) NO CHANGE So at this time I'm figuring that the ignition system is completely replaced (with the exception of the main ECU), I turn to fuel. clean out MAF (non-chlorinated brake cleaner + compressed air) NO CHANGE This one has an in-tank filter instead of the nice easy to replace one of the pre '05 models, so it was cheaper to get a junkyard pull full pump assembly instead of the fuel filter itself, so I got a pull from a car with 78k miles and install it, NO CHANGE So I figure, maybe the one I got has a clogged filter, so I rig up rube goldberg fuel pressure gauge I can watch while driving, 52 PSI all the time, even at full throttle pulls when the MIL flashes the misfire blues.. so it's not the pump or plumbing up to the engine. Googling seems to indicate a remote possibility of the timing belt being off by one tooth, so I drop the coolant, pull the radiator, and pop off the covers and double check, nope it's SPOT ON, and the tensioner is fine (not leaking) So googling some more seems to indicate all but OEM or NGK plug wires are garbage, so I order a NGK FX-101 set and install them (fits great), NO CHANGE Running out of things to replace. Only thing I can think is left is a possibly burnt valve, or a bad pair of injectors (that are flowing less than they should) Using my OBD-II tool (Obdlink-SX and OBDwiz) shows the misfire counts are highest on cylinder number 1, and about 1/4-1/6th as many on cylinder two, never any on cylinder 3 or 4. Was going to swap the 1&2 injectors to the 3&4 position next to see if the problem follows it.. Anyone else have any suggestions? I don't have a leakdown tool, but I'm sure amazon does, though the engine cranks evenly, so if it was down on compression it would typically be noticeable during cranking from the weak cylinder.. -- frustrated.... I really miss my '98 OBW with the 2.5 NA quad-cam
Hi there! I am brand new to the world of Subarus, and I am having trouble tracking down basic info. I am interested in the differences from the very very basic to the technical between the Baja turbo and non-turbo cars from 2005-6. I have found a few discussions about repair expenses, but want to know about power differences, gas, terrain they can handle etc. Also does anyone know if Subaru would back a special project car if it were brought to their attention? I plan to do something with it that's not been done before, and it's a niche, can't say much else right now. Thanks!