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Found 20 results

  1. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  2. Hey ya'll, I'm talking to a guy right now on a Peugeot message board about picking up some wheels off him and I had a question I couldn't find an answer to through the search bar. (does that thing ever work? I can never find what I'm looking for on there...) The wheels he has are 15" diameter and 6" wide. I'm curious if 1. 15" will fit under a non-lifted 88 GL and 2. if anyone knows if they will line up well and not stick out. I'm having trouble finding backspacing information for the subaru wheels and the peugeot wheels. Here's a pic just so you know what I'm looking at.... Dude told me his are 4x100 bolt pattern in the e-mail, but I think he just doesn't know?? They are coming off a 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo Wagon. He also said mine should be 4x100....so either he mistyped or is just misinformed right? Any help would be great. Thanks ya'll.
  3. Looking into a new radiator, mine seems to be leaking at the spot where the cap tube meets the radiator as well as a main hose. I'm looking at the one pictured, but realizing mine doesn't have those outlets I labeled in the photo. rather there are just two metal screw plugs. possible to get a radiator that doesn't have these or is this what we are working with now? Also, what are those for? where would they go? Thinking I can just cap them off, but seeing as that just adds more spots for a leak to happen I'd rather get one without those. Maybe I can unscrew them and put my metal screw plugs there? any info would be appreciated.
  4. Hello! I have oil leaking from front of engine and would like to remove my oil pump to check for pump and seal failures. I am wondering if anyone has had experience performing this without removing the engine or if this would even be possible. I would love to hear any advice/steps involved in the process if so. I drive a 99 Subaru legacy outback Wagon with the ej25 engine. To me it looks like it can be done, but I wanted to get an experienced second (or more) opinion before diving in. Thanks in advance!
  5. I have a 1987 GL 4-door wagon with push button 4WD. It has a 3-speed auto trans, A/C, Carb, 1.8L, all power options. When searching for transmissions at car-part dot com, I see FWD or AWD. Under descriptions provided by the wrecking yard, I see 2WD, 4WD, FWD, and AWD. I know that 1987 had both 4WD and AWD, carburetor and fuel injection. 1) Was there such a thing as a FWD (no 4WD button) during 1985 - 87? 2) Which transmission do I need? 3) Does anyone have a good used one with torque converter for sale that will ship, preferably in the pacific northwest? Thanks
  6. Hey all. I'm in the middle of doing the ball joints and CV axles on my 1988 ea82 4wd wagon. Getting them out wasn't hard, and one side went in like a charm (with some hammer persuasion), but the passenger's side will NOT pop into the steering knuckle. I've tried PB blaster, lightly wedging the pinch bolt open with my pickle fork, lithium grease, BFH treatment, and last but not least installing the new joint into the control arm first and wedging the knuckle down onto the ball joint with a breaker bar. Anybody have any tips for getting the new ones in?? for the record I'm using ACDELCO ball joints from Rockauto, they are both identical and seem to be the same in all critical areas as the old ones.
  7. Hi all, so a lot has happened since I last posted, right now I'm up to my neck in rebuilding my engine. Sort of. Long story short, my last oil change I decided to try synthetic blend because my buddy kept bugging me about how good it is and how much better it wears and blah blah blah. I know it's good stuff, just when it's used in the right situation. I put blend in and then unknown to me, my engine started leaking oil a lot faster than I realized. One day coming home from work the engine died on me and when I started it again I got a terrible knocking noise. My oil had gotten way too low, and the damage had already been done. All my rod bearings were shot and I just found out my crankshaft is toast. Due to time and money restrictions I've got a reman'd short block on it's way as well as a new clutch and a master seal and gasket kit that has new oil and water pumps. The only thing left is I would like to replace the timing belt and all its paraphernalia. I've looked at the stuff direct from Subaru and I've also looked at kits on eBay and Amazon and I'm not sure which would be better. Can anyone recommend one or the other? I'm not afraid to just get them from Subaru but are the cheaper kits on eBay and Amzon any good? Thanks for any help in advance David
  8. So the interior of my GL that I'm restoring smells like a old wet gym sock, IT'S GREAT! But all great things must end and I would like to find a fresh carpet. Thing is, my usually go to places either come up with universal carpet kits or nothing at all and worse yet, tell me my car doesn't exist. So I know someone at some point here must of sourced one before. Has anyone been able to find a pre-molded carpet for a EA82 wagon before? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  9. Need help finding a replacement, don't know the name of this line or where to find it. It is in the very front/bottom, it has a rubber fitting on each side, and two tabs holding it onto the timing chain cover. It comes from the thermostat area and goes to the oil filter area.
  10. I just bought a used 1998 Legacy 2.2 5spd MT with ~169,000 miles on it. I'm looking for replacement knock and downstream O2 sensors for it. For the O2 Sensor, I am looking at the Bosch 15726. Is this a good sensor or should I go with the more expensive OEM part? For the knock sensor, I have not yet found a suitable part. Are there any non-OE parts or should I stick with OEM?
  11. Any recommendations for a long-lasting Timing Belt? In my 2002 Forester EJ251, I replaced the original Subaru factory Timing Belt at 163,590km (101,671miles), as a maintenance precaution. That Subaru belt looked like almost new, with no cracks or other visible deterioration. The next belt was part of a MizumoAuto timing-belt kit (incl. pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump). After another 62,633km (38,927miles), I discovered that the belt was badly cracked. There are transverse cracks on the back-side of the belt, opposite to the ‘valleys’ in the toothed side. See the attached photo. That replacement belt only lasted 38% as long as the original Subaru belt, and I have removed it from service. I can buy a replacement timing belt on line for a variety of prices, and from a variety of manufacturers. The most expensive belts are the Subaru OEM (13028AA231), followed by Gates and Mitsuboshi. And there are many others available for a fraction of the price. Which belts are the best buy for the price (I have an interference-engine)? I know that the Subaru OEM belt is good (no visible deterioration at the recommended change-interval), but it is expensive. And the MizumoAuto belt was scarily inadequate, with cracking after a much shorter interval (I have asked MizumoAuto to tell me the manufacturer’s name, but no reply). I have seen lots of online reviews, mostly with comments about how the belt went on easily, or looked nice when new, etc. But I haven’t found any reviews that comment on the longevity of the belt, or otherwise. So I welcome comments/recommendations about what make of timing belt to buy, preferably with first-hand experience on how long the belt actually lasted.
  12. i have a 2006 Outback 2.5 XT and the turbo failed. I am looking for alternative options for replacement other than another stock turbo. Would prefer to spend less that what i was quoted for a new turbo from Subaru (approx. $1400 for parts and gaskets + install per my mechanic). While I wouldn't mind a perfomance upgrade I dont want my mechanic to have to do any fabrication or modification to install the new unit. I'm sure there is a great bolt on option, but I just dont know about it. We bought the Outback new, it is all stock, and has 130,000 miles on it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
  13. I was tuning up my 95 Legacy yesterday with cleaning/testing throttle body & Position Sensor, PCV, MAF, etc. Started looking for my EGR valve to take a whack at but could not find it. Checked the Chiltons manual & tells/shows where it "should" be also says that testing the EGR is done by OnBoardDiagnostics & I have OBDII so wouldnt it be somewhere Checked online for pictures and where the EGR Pipe should be is crimped off. What is the meaning of this? Im boggled.
  14. I'm back! I've been working on a my "new" hatch and have run into a problem with replacing my driver's side front cv shaft. Mine was TOAST, no wonder it was making that horrible chattering sound. I ordered a new production oem style shaft from Autozone, and hoped that what would come up would be the right length. Nope, later I found out it was a 27 and 5/16" (compressed) long shaft. Not only was it too long, but the metal "head" right behind the wheel/hub side spindle was too fat to fit the suspension assembly. ~~~ 27-5/16" new oem style shaft too long and too wide on the spindle "head" Next one ordered, 27 and 1/4" this one looked like the one I pulled off the Soob (same aftermarket style head). The "head" wasn't as fat either, but again, it was about half an inch too long for the lower ball-joint to fit into it's bracket. -Something I noticed was that if I mated the engine side of the shaft and slid it as far in as it would go (preventing me from pinning it in place), it still need < half an inch to properly fit the ball joint. ~~~27-1/4" new oem style shaft still about half an inch too long to fit the suspension assembly properly. I've orderd my last option from Autozone (and they dropped the price for me thankfully), and the system checks it in as having a 25-3/4" compressed length. I've got the part already and I fear this one will be too short. ~~~Going to try a 25-3/4" cv shaft today, fear it's too short even if it bolts on. On the forum, someone pointed me toward Rock-auto for the "shorter" EMPI cv shaft listed for my car. That one has a 27-1/4" compressed length, I'm guessing the shoddy build of the New OEM style 27-1/4" shaft is to blame? What's the compressed length for the GL hatch front (driver's side) CV shaft? Has anyone ever experienced this same issue before? Thanks in advance!
  15. I was trying to remove the balljoint pinch bolt from the steering knuckle in my 2001 Legacy and the head sheared right off. If I were able to get in and drill out the bolt without damaging the threads, does anybody know the sizing of the bolt I would use to replace it? Any pointers on removing the old bolt are appreciated too... It's my first time attempting to replace a sheared bolt like this one!
  16. I have a 1987 GL Coupe. It's a fun car, but, finding parts is hard. When I bought it, the passenger side tail light was cracked, which was okay. The driver's side tail light, as of about 2 hours ago, was broken because I was having too much fun on a snowy road and I may have bounced it off a tree. No real dent, didn't scratch the paint, just broke the signal lens off. (The actual brake light is fine, just the orange bit is missing). I'd really like to replace it, but, I can't find this easily. If someone knows where I can buy one or will sell me one, I'd be very happy! Is it possible to use the lights from a sedan instead? Even with a little modification? Or that definitely a no-go?
  17. Hey all. I was in a minor highway accident yesterday in my EA82. Nobody was hurt, and it was rather low speed, but I've bent my front left quarterpanel up and bent the valence under the bumper. The bumper itself is shifted to one side but it looks okay. I didn't even crack a headlight. However, it leaked coolant immediately after the collision, leading me to believe that the radiator took some damage. I assume this is from the valence under the bumper coming into contact with the radiator, and hopefully NOT from the center support. But on to my real question: I found a good fender/quarterpanel at a pick n' pull nearby, but didn't have the tools necessary to remove it with me at the time. What size are the bolts used to attach it this piece, and does anybody have a good writeup on replacing body panels? This will be my first wrenching on this car and I'm hoping for some guidance. Thanks! edited to add tags
  18. So I am rebuilding the ol' Hitachi and the top half looks great. Figured I'd pull the bottom portion to replace the gaskets because that is where I am positive a leak was coming from and after pulling it apart found that the thicker gasket that is wedged between the two smaller gaskets for the base has a crack in it. Anyone know if it is possible to get a replacement "thick" gasket for the base of these? My rebuild kit did not come with a new one only the two thin bottom portion gaskets. Uploaded with ImageShack.us The Break Uploaded with ImageShack.us The thickness. Two thin gaskets go on each side of this larger one. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Macgyvering very encouraged as I would like to get her up and running asap.
  19. Hello All, I am posting in search of some help. I am currently helping a friend work on his 86 brat. Due to other issues and finding a new carb off a EA82 , we are replacing the intake and carb with that from a EA82. We removed the intake with no problem but the EGR piping that goes from the top of the block into the intake will not come unscrewed from the block. We have tried using a torch to heat it up and also penetrating spray. There also seems to be a case of 17mm being slightly big and 16mm being too small. This is the pipe we are doing with. I should note we do not particularly care about reconnecting the EGR as we also were able to get a very nicely machined block off for it from the EA82 intake. But the pipe still will pose an issue. Does anyone have a secret for taking this off or possibly going another route?
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