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Found 13 results

  1. I just had the headgasket replaced on my 2010 Outback. They also replaced the water pump, timing belt, and resurfaced the heads. It doesn't overheat anymore, but the passenger compartment smells like gas and it idles rough- which it wasn't doing before.
  2. Hello, The car I recently purchased has 96,000 on it. 2006 Legacy has a small issue that I have noticed. When I am pull up to a traffic light the engine rpm's drop down to the point I think it may want to stall. This is more prevalent when the A/C is on, but it still does it a little less when it is off. I have read that the IAC (Idle Control Valve) sometimes get clogged/restricted a little. Can the EGR also cause this? Thanks for any help
  3. Hello all, I have a 99 outback with a 2.2l swap. The motor has 180,000 mi, and chassis has 205,000mi. I was having some idling issues, so i replaced the fuel filter. Was easy enough. Put some new gas and an injector cleaner in it. its been a week and still drives like its thirsty. Can someone tell me if i should look at replacing the in tank filter, or am i missing something. Thanks
  4. Hi folks.... My 03 Outback is throwing the iac valve codes and having typical high idle, then rough idle at stop lights, etc. Took off the iac valve and cleaned it out as well as the throttle body, which I cleaned while still on the car, reaching in with a rag, as best I could. But it all back together with no improvement. So, I looked up the IAC at Advance Auto.... found it to cost $343! Then, at Rock Auto, 3 options $182, $252 and $232, So.... I googled the number on the blue sticker on my IAC..... A33-661 R02 .... and found one listed at alexnld.com for $13 .... wtf? Here's the link to the cheap one..... http://alexnld.com/product/idle-air-speed-control-valve-for-subaru-22650aa19c-a33-661-r02-iac/?gclid=CjwKEAiAj7TCBRCp2Z22ue-zrj4SJACG7SBEcBcsQu9JiwehHyavJQOITly2ihpk0zHVy04iejhutxoC1U_w_wcB So.... what's up.... will the cheap one work? I guess I could just order and see, but I thought I ask if anyone else is familiar with this issue. Thanks! Mike
  5. Hey y'all, So I have a '93 Legacy, and it has recently been doing this funky idle dive. When warm and idling, the RPMs hover comfortably around 500. While driving (most often when engine braking), when I depress the clutch either to coast or shift, the RPMs dive down close to 0 then fluctuate between 500 and 0 for a few seconds before settling in at 500 or a little less. It doesn't always do this, and it has no fluctuations when idling at a stop light. This problem was more of a curiosity until the engine actually died on me yesterday. I was camping around 5,600 ft at the end of a small mountain road. The car restarted fine, but as I descended (using the engine to brake), the diving idle kept happening but without killing the engine completely. As I descended back into the city, the problem seemed to return to its normal "once in a while" standard. Could it have something to do with altitude? I want to get this fixed b/c I need to drive up to Alaska in January, and I don't want to get stuck somewhere. Thanks for any help you can give. Dave
  6. My 1990 legacy didnt idle for about a week so i replaced the MAFS, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the air intake valve, replaced the PCV valve, replaced the PCV hose to the air intake. After all that she finally idles but its really rough it bounces from 0- about 1000 rpm is there any reason it is still idling rough? fuel filter? im not sure please help me out
  7. Hey all, New user here but been searching the forums for a few weeks and getting lots of good knowledge. I am from Ft Worth, Tx and this is my daughters car. 95 impreza l sedan 225k. I have already done the IACV cleaning, cleaned the TB off the car WELL. plugs (NGK G-Power), wires (NGK 7mm) O2 sensor (bosch universal). Car runs great over 1000rpm. At idle it will drop to 300 to 400 rpm shake like crazy for about 15 to 20 sec then jump to 1500rpm. after it's really warmed up and ran for a while in will stay at the idle speed longer (3 to 400) but still shakes like crazy. I have went though every vacuum line I can find and I found 1 with a leak but nothing changed.. Also found this part (see pic). Looks like someone RTV'ed the hell out of it. any idea what that is?? I can find anything on it or talking about it.. It has an electrical connector and 2 vacuum lines 1 to intake by the TB and the other to the Air intake just after the MAF. Any help at all would be great! Thanks
  8. So I have a 1998 Legacy 2.2. This is my first subaru timing belt change, but I've change half dozen timing belts on other makes and models. This thing is driving me nuts. Car was running great previous to timing belt change. I've taken off and have redone the belt three times, all with it ending with a rough idle and a motor vibration. I align the cam sprockets to rough noon (using hash marks, not the arrows), and put the crankshaft at the right spot too. I'm using a belt with marks, but I always make sure the tooth count is correct 44 on rhs (passenger), 40.5 on lhs(driver). The alignment is good, both before and after turning it back on. I've watched videos, read many forum post and nothing seems to help it smooth out. It sounds and runs like the timings off, but everything is aligned. Can the cams be 360 out of sync? I dont' think so, because the mark is the mark, right? But maybe not. When I put on the belt the passenger side cam is 'unloaded' no spring action when the hash mark is at noon...but the driver side cam is loaded (likes to jump off if I'm tweaking the belt too much without holding it in place). The only other thing that comes to mind is with the battery being disconnected it reset the ecm, and thinks it has a clean throttle body, when it doesn't. So the mix is off. I've had other cars with that problem, but not sure about subarus. Does that happen with Legacys? I've seen conflicting posts with regard to cleaning throttle bodies. This would explain the rough running, but maybe not the motor vibration Any help would be much appreciated.
  9. I finally got my car running, and took it for a drive. Here's what my problem is: * My car idles really low, and it will die unless I give it gas. * Sometimes, when I press the gas pedal, it will stick. * It backfires at higher rpms when I'm cruising. * The ECS light is on. I've replaced the spark plug wires and both the main and secondary fuel filters. What should I check next?
  10. I've recently been having problems with my 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5l I am the second owner, and have never had any real issues with this car. Swapped out alternator and starter, and cleaned and fixed a vacuum leak within the EGR system, all this over the course of 6 years of ownership (so, nothing huge or costly). I have 25,000 miles until my next timing belt change. In April I took it in to a mechanic because it was coding for the EGR system again. . . They couldn't find anything wrong with the EGR and said it was the knock sensor and replaced that. However, the check engine light kept coming back on and they couldn't figure it out despite my subsequent 3 visits to have it looked at and the code pulled (their assurance was that it was the knock sensor, and that it just needed to go through a drive cycle). I took it to a different mechanic (whom a friend with an 03 outback trusts), and he found 3 issues with the EGR and fixed it for fairly cheap. The check engine light has not come back on since. HOWEVER, since getting the knock sensor replaced in April my outback will randomly idle roughly, and has since gotten worse. More recently it will start up oddly (it kicks over, but it's almost like it's not getting gas but hitting the throttle doesn't change), it idles rough at stops, and when I hit the gas after it idles rough the RPMs drop suddenly before the car goes. . . It feels like it's going to stall out and die but never has. It has, however, died/stalled twice when it's idling rough and I put it into park, but always starts back up. The only thing that seems to make a difference--If it has sat overnight it will work perfectly the first time I drive it anywhere. If it is idling rough, if I "gun it" and speed up fast it will usually clear the symptoms and it will drive fine for the rest of the drive. And it seems to be worst whenever I am stopping frequently, i.e. stop to get coffee, stop at the grocery store, stop to get gas. . . With frequent stops the problem seems to get worse. Hoping for an easy fix (and without the blessing/guarantee from my mechanic it would work), I put a new throttle position sensor in it, but the problem persists. Has anyone had anything similar to this?
  11. So the idle on my car has become very irregular, at first it just sat at about 100rpm and I tried using the idle adjustments but they had no effect And my should be right I just checked right before this started Now though all of it sudden it idles at between 6-900 rpm just constantly going up and down up and down, if I give it a little throttle it smoothes out and sounds find but will try to die unless I back off very slowly. One of my friends said to check out the idle air control valve but I can't find it, so anyone have suggestions?
  12. Having an issue with my 95 legacy. It will start, and have a rough inconsistent idle, and will stall out when the accelerator is compressed. I have recently replaced the fuel pump, spark-plugs, and the mass-airflow sensor. Wondering if anyone has an idea what the issues could be.
  13. I have a 99 legacy outback that has got me stumped! Everything is best with a little background, so here is mine. I have owned the car for 2.5 years and have put on about 20k miles (currently at about 134,000). There have been no major repairs that I know of, and the timing belt was replaced 10 months ago. I have had no serious issues up until.....The car was driven by a friend 200 miles, then parked in his driveway. The parking lights were left on, killing the battery. Two weeks later I came to pick up the car, and discovered the battery. I charged it back up, then went to start the car. It idled very low and rough, requiring a little throttle to remain on. When I attempted to bring the throttle up, it would reach 1000-1200 RPM, then immediately drop to 300. There is a bunch of smoke, that seems to smell a little odd, but that might just be my nose. There is no CEL on. I changed the plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter. I did not have a pressure gauge for the fuel line, but fuel squirted right out when I turned the engine over. I cleaned the PCV and checked all the fuses. There is no obstruction in the air filter. At this point I am stumped. A CEL sure would be nice! Anyone have an idea, or experienced this?
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