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Found 5 results

  1. Hey team, I recently changed my oil and redid wiring for my crank angle sensor my car is performing and idling better than it was before, but it periodically has a rougher idle (more vibrations when idling) - usually, it is remedied by flipping the car into neutral and then back into drive which I find really odd. Once in a while, the idle goes a tad lower but usually, it's around the 700-800 rpm mark which is good. any ideas what could be causing this? maybe a dirty IAC? maybe spark plugs/spark plug wires? I'm at a loss!! Thanks in advance! Edit - My car is a 1991 Subaru liberty/legacy with 161'000km on the clock (100'040 miles)
  2. Need some help after our actions did not fix the problem: Outback got an oil change and check before a trip in September, at 135K miles. For the first time I experienced the car not shifting into lower gear when accelerating up a hill on the highway. The RPMs went up, but no downshift. I slowed down and the problem did not return. Two weeks later the car died at idle in drive on an incline and threw code p0028. Car started idling rough at a stop or when in reverse at very low speed. Sometimes it died but restarted fine. We found some moisture in the spark plugs and tried removing. Ended up breaking a wire so we took it to our trusted mechanic for new plugs and wires. After that the car performed well for two weeks until last week on a trip in the foothills. Threw the p0028 code while on a straightaway, but the idle problem did not return like before. We cleared the code and chose to install a new variable valve timing control solenoid. We also cleaned the switch. The code is gone but the car is again idling rough and sometimes dying at idle in drive or reverse. Today we put in a new switch. Husband confirmed switch and solenoid are opening properly. But no change to our rough idle. We drove it around the block, it did not throw a code. What is our next best option?
  3. My wife drives a 2010 Impreza auto with a EJ20 fitted. On the first start of the day it runs rough like it's only firing on one cylinder. After between 15 -45 seconds it suddenly comes good and operates normally. Following this first start and warm up the car operates normally for the remainder of the day even if left to stand for 5-6 hrs I have returned the car to subaru dealer who changed the in tank filter assembly (not sure why) I have cleaned mass air flow sensor and upper engine manifold clean with pressure pack + added injector cleaner with no result. I am planning to remove throttle body and clean as next step. Has anybody experienced a simmilar problem. Also my OBD 2 reader will not recognise this car can anybody recomend a good reader as an alternative? I appreciate any suggestions or advice
  4. Hello people, This may sound ridiculous to some of you, but for others -like me- this would have been very useful. I have been very busy lately so I have barely done anything to my '01 Legacy. Something I did, however, was to fix an *incredibly* annoying vibration of the gas pedal, which I had felt since I put the engine back after doing the head gaskets. Some time ago I read a post by someone asking for help with a similar issue, but (s)he ended up taking the car to a dealer, who diagnosed an incorrectly routed gas pedal and/or cruise control cables. They fixed the problem, but this person didn't offer a more detailed description of the solution. Last weekend I went to my u-pull of choice, and found a '00 Legacy sedan "totaled" (light right side damage) with a *pristine* -and apparently untouched- engine bay. After getting what I needed (power steering pump), and somehow I remembered to take a picture of the junkyard's car engine bay. When I compared it to my car's, I found the routing of the cables was fine, but I had (mistakenly) fixed them to one of the A/C hoses. The car still runs a little rough, but at least you don't feel anything on your right foot, which I consider an absolute success So... here's the picture: The cables are fixed using plastic clips in three places: - The (wrapped) positive wire from the alternator to the battery. - The positive wire from the battery to the starter motor - One of the A/C hoses (only the cruise control cable) Best luck!
  5. I have a 2005 Impreza 2.5 RS with a 4EAT transmission. It was good for the first 4 or 5 years, but then shifted rough when cold 1-2 and especially 3-4. It gradually got worse, to the point where I kept it in 2nd gear until the transmission was hot. In spite of many trips to the dealer, their only solution was to replace the transmission. Recently, my car wouldn't idle consistently and the dealer cleaned the throttle body and did a re-learn on the idle. Besides fixing the idle, cleaning the throttle body made the transmission work nearly perfectly, even when cold. Does anyone know why cleaning the throttle body would improve the operation of the transmission so dramatically? Is there some vacuum feed to the transmission? I though it was all hydraulic.
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