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Found 11 results

  1. Hi all, EJ251 block/EJ25D heads in '98 OBW, 5MT Recent work done in the past year: Plugs (ngk) wires (ngk) Timing belt kit (oem) Timing cam gears (oem) Cleaned and swapped out IACV Swapped out MAF Swapped out TPS New Fuel Pump, Strainer, Filter, Pressure Regulator New OEM Oxygen sensor Compression test cylinders 1-4: 214, 205, 225, 209 (unsure if these numbers are good for a High Compression build, it is consuming some oil. Maybe a half quart to full quart every few months of mostly short trips and some highway) I live in Las Vegas, and the temperatures are now at the usual hot. When city driving during the heat of the day, the engine will idle very low (has approached stalling, entire car shutters/shakes) and will often bob up and down +/- 100 rpm. It seems to be at its worse always when the fuel tank is at or below half-filled. If I use the A/C it helps with the issue because of the idle-up function. I've checked for vacuum leaks with a propane tank, and can't find anything. If I unplug a vacuum line, the engine idles up. Upon startup for the first 5 minutes, the exhaust smells very rich. Should I be looking to test next? The valves are kinda loud, should I do a leak-down test? When I press the accelerator pedal, from 1800 rpm to 2500 rpm, the motor behaves as if it is unbalanced. Anything above 2500, it is smooth and responsive. I am using an air intake from a '96 legacy wagon... is that an issue? Too restrictive? Any help would be appreciated. Greg
  2. Car shudders when coming to a hard brake and then stalls. From what I have found online, it's a known issue with 2010, 11, and 12 Legacy. I took it to the dealership and they say it is a blockage in the torque converter and that it and the transmission need to be replaced - $7500. From posts I have seen online elsewhere, most have replaced the converter ONLY for $1500. Anyone have any experience with this? And can one tell me as to why if both are replaced the cost is so high?
  3. This is really baffling me. Could use help. Pulled main relay and it bench tests fine. Had a crank sensor code, replaced with new. Timing covers off and all looks intact. Can see OBDII readout at port, but when I test probe connectors at ECU per FSM, I am not seeing power consistently at PIN 1 and 2 and there is no ground at 19. Cleaned as many grounds as I could find. Have new battery. Amazingly, I can hear fuel pump run on key turn and the main relay energizes the proper five ports. Have 12V to ignition control and coil pack, but no pulse. Noid light will not come on at any time at injector 1. Does this sound like failed ECU? Thanks, Matt
  4. About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
  5. Hi, First time posting but I'm hoping you guys can help. I've got a 96 Impreza Outback with the EJ22 and 90,000 miles (an old grandma car). The car will seemingly start and run fine for a while but will start to sputter, lose power and eventually stall. I have to then have the car sit for about 5-10 minutes before I'm able to get it running again. The difficult thing about this is that it is fairly random. Yesterday I drove 10 miles without issue. Got in the car again and made it about 300 yards before it stalled on me (fortunately I was able to make it to a parking lot). After about 5 minutes I started it back up and it was fine the rest of the day, another 40 miles. I live in the city so it doesn't see much highway mileage. Given the randomness I don't like the idea of driving down a highway with no shoulder. The dash lights do not light during the sputtering. Things I've replaced: -fuel filter -fuel pump -valve cover gasket (this definitely seemed to be leaking as one of the covers had oil all over it) -plugs (wires and plugs also were replaced about a year ago) I've already tried taking it to a mechanic but of course it was running fine for him and not exhibiting any symptoms. I next tried a dealership but they said it'd be about $500 just to diagnose/look into it because it's so hard to reproduce. I'm kind of running out of options. I really don't know how to troubleshoot cars too well. Any ideas on where to look next? How can I determine if this is an electrical/ignition issue vs fuel system, etc? Thanks!
  6. i need help with my car. just got a 3 door 1988 GL 4x4 and it ran good when i bought it, but now it wont stay running when i put any load on the engine. i can get it to idle, then if i put load on it, it sputters really bad and stalls. takes a bunch of tries starting to get it to stay running again. the ea81 was put in by the previous owner, and it has a 2 barrel weber carb that i was told needs adjusting. im stuck cuz i have to drive 700 miles and my other car just broke down
  7. I have a '99 Outback with about 186k that I bought for the kids. My daughter complained about it running rougher than usual at idle. I picked it up from her school and she was right! It tripped P0301 and P0303 codes (misfire on 1 & 3). I was able to limp home with it. Here's what I have done so far: 1. Changed plugs and wires 2. Changed Coil and Air Cleaner After doing this, I tried the car. It kept stalling (see detailed description below). I was able (barely by giving it lots of gas) to get it the 20 feet into my garage so I could work on it out of the rain, but that's about it). 3. Changed timing belt, hydraulic tensioner and all idlers (see below, they were past their expiration date) 4. Changed water pump (well, I figured since I was in there anyway...) 5. Changed upper and lower radiator hoses and thermostat (again, since I was there..) 6. Changed alternator/PS belt and AC compressor belt, as well as idler on the AC belt tensioner (after all, my kids are driving it...) So, here's where the story gets interesting. When I opened the timing belt cover, I found a rubber-covered metal ring floating around in the sprockets. It ends up it is the ball-bearing cover on the idler wheel that has the teeth (don't know the technical term for this). So, clearly that idler was fubar and it's a fair assumption that this foreign body probably caused the timing belt to skip, resulting in the misfires. I put the car together and started it up. It started right away, sounded smooth, revved up to about 1500 RPM, and then died. Thinking that maybe the computer needed to relearn the idle, I disconnected the battery for a minute or so and then turned the ignition on for a minute or so, and then started it up. Some thing. No CEL and no codes came up, but it just doesn't run. If I give the car lots of gas, I can keep it running, but it tries to die every few seconds and I need to pump the throttle to keep it running. Don't think that I can move it like this, since every time I try to shift it into gear, it will stall. Suggestions are welcome! Thank you.
  8. hey everyone! just having an issue with my 94 loyale. I recently replaced the distributor cap and I will be installing new spark plugs and wires, however when driving, my car will have a very unsteady idle or even drop so low that it will die altogether. i have to feather the gas just to keep it running while its on the road and if i dont it will stall out and ill have to start it up again. I have sprayed around the lines for vacuum leaks and i have done research on wether its the fuel injector or maybe one of the sensors or the solenoid is stuck open. i am not sure where to go from here. I have a chiltons repair manual and have looked over what it could be, I would just like a bit more input and direction and hopes its not a big endeavor in both cost and time. thanks!
  9. Hi all, I've been poking around the forums and I've noticed plenty of great suggestions. Hopefully you all can help me out. My wife's beloved 96 Outback has been stalling for a month or so now, and we can not figure it out what is going on! We've had it in and out of two different shops with no luck. It stalls hot, cold, at speed, at stop signs, turning, not turning, AC on/off... It isn't reproducible, and has seemingly no trend. In general, it seems to stall as it is going to idle. The power stays on, and no engine check light appears. Poking around the threads, I've noticed MAF seems to be a common failure point. I cleaned it out, and although it seemed to run better, it still stalled. Reading elsewhere that if you unplug it, it may solve the problem, but the car ran terribly, idling wildly. Perhaps this points to something? The car will usually start right back up, however I did have one time at a light I could not get it to stay on. The starter kicked the rpms up, and then as the rpms came back down, it would stall, with no response from pumping the gas. This seems to point me in the direction of a fuel issue, although the fuel pump is new as of last year. I'm thinking of just replacing it again myself, or at least tracing down some of the fuel lines to make sure there are no pinches? The car doesn't have much worth as it is, so I'd hate to go down an expensive wild goose chase with mechanics. The shop doesn't want to deal with it because, of course, it never stalls when they drive it... I've been downgraded to my bike since my wife has to commute, and the upcoming Oregon rainy season is putting the pressure on. Any help is appreciated!
  10. I have an 03 Outback 2.5 A/T w appx. 184k miles. Trans has been replaced and the previous owner took good care of and maintained the vehicle well. The past several months I have had starting/idling/stalling issues. This general is worse when the vehicle is cold. It is hard to start without giving the accelerator a little help it most of the time will not start and keep running. It will stall if the idle is not kept up but when it does it runs fine. Sometimes it will idle and or start on its own without help, but that is generally only when it is warm, however can periodically do so on a cold start. When it stalls out, often the "AT Oil Temp" light flashes. The car is not throwing any codes. When these issues first started the symptoms where worse and the idle on a few occasions started to run high on its own, yes while driving which was quite dangerous! A few weeks back I ran some Seafoam into the intake into two different areas as per the bottles instructions to try to ensure that all cylinders where feed properly with the remains in the fuel tank. I also cleaned the throttle body out the best I could (air filter good, pcv valve iffy.) I did not get the standard heavy white smoke on start up that I normally do on other vehicles leading me to question whether the process took properly. I had a mechanic tell me to reset the computers values by disconnecting the negative lead & touching it to the positive side and leave set for 15 minutes or so. All of this seemed to do the trick. However, it started again and I brough it to my mechanic. The only thing they could find was a reported vacuum leak next to the intake. That certainly could do it and assumed that when I reassembled the air cleaner, I must have not made a proper connection and was gald that was the problem. It was not. THe car is still doing the same thing. I am going to try and replace the fuel filter and pcv valve next but if that doesn't do it, I am stuck! Suggestions!?! Btw: The TPS switch was tested and all that seems to be good. Please HELP!?!
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