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Found 7 results

  1. We fixed it but, I am leaving this post up for two reasons. If it happened to us then it may happen to someone else. I have attached the photo because I have a question as well. The plug connected to the small housing had a missing bolt and it was moving around. I noticed when I moved it with my hand the engine would stall. My question now that we put a bolt in and it fixed the car is, What is this housing and plug? I am very curious as I cannot find anything on it. Thank you all. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi all, My son has a 203 Impreza RS 4 door sedan. We are having a terrible time figuring out the problem to the point that we are just throwing parts at it. When he is driving the car, full tank or not it literally stalls on a left or right hand turn. When going over bumps in the road is loses power like it is going to stall, but he usually still has his foot on the pedal so you notice the hesitation until it catches again. We have done the fuel pump that is in the tank, IACV, TPS, Fuel pump relay under the passenger side kick plate and the fuse. IT has its' tune up, but I think this is a fuel issue and I am not sure where to check next. Any ideas? It sits and idles fine and runs fine. It is the turns and the sharp turns and bumps. The typical bend int he road does not affect it. Thanks all for your help. If we cannot figure it out it will go to the mechanic next week. I am tired of messing with it.
  2. First time poster here, have gotten some good advice from this forum. I have a 1993 Legacy wagon with the original 2.2L ej22 motor, which has developed a perplexing problem. When I engage the a/c (defroster also), the motor has a serious rpm drop when the a/c disengages. This problem developed when I started to have difficulties with the a/c, which led me to have the compressor changed, system swapped to the new freon stuff, and the problem continues. It doesn't matter whether I am at idle, driving steady at freeway speeds, whenever the compressor stops, the car has such a rpm drop that it feels like a stall, or even like I hit something. I started it up today and let the car idle while turning on the defroster, and watched from the front; sure enough, when the a/c stops, the engine drops rpms (like 500 rpm) and almost stops, and it takes almost 2 seconds for the engine to recover. It takes the engage portion fine, speeding up a little right before the compressor engages. Anyone else experience something like this? All the searches turned up drops when the compressor engages, not when it disengages. Almost like the computer is over compensating for the end of the power drain. Any ideas? I suspected the iac, but the fact that the engage portion of the a/c works fine causes me to question that conclusion.
  3. Hi all, I've been poking around the forums and I've noticed plenty of great suggestions. Hopefully you all can help me out. My wife's beloved 96 Outback has been stalling for a month or so now, and we can not figure it out what is going on! We've had it in and out of two different shops with no luck. It stalls hot, cold, at speed, at stop signs, turning, not turning, AC on/off... It isn't reproducible, and has seemingly no trend. In general, it seems to stall as it is going to idle. The power stays on, and no engine check light appears. Poking around the threads, I've noticed MAF seems to be a common failure point. I cleaned it out, and although it seemed to run better, it still stalled. Reading elsewhere that if you unplug it, it may solve the problem, but the car ran terribly, idling wildly. Perhaps this points to something? The car will usually start right back up, however I did have one time at a light I could not get it to stay on. The starter kicked the rpms up, and then as the rpms came back down, it would stall, with no response from pumping the gas. This seems to point me in the direction of a fuel issue, although the fuel pump is new as of last year. I'm thinking of just replacing it again myself, or at least tracing down some of the fuel lines to make sure there are no pinches? The car doesn't have much worth as it is, so I'd hate to go down an expensive wild goose chase with mechanics. The shop doesn't want to deal with it because, of course, it never stalls when they drive it... I've been downgraded to my bike since my wife has to commute, and the upcoming Oregon rainy season is putting the pressure on. Any help is appreciated!
  4. I inadvertently left the ignition on while cleaning the car, and after 18 hours it was seriously dead. Got it started with a jump (yes red to red, black to black) which did take some cranking and fussing. Since then it is hard to start, idling way low (loping between almost zero and 250 rpm), stumbles, feels like it's hovering on the edge of a stall in traffic, and hesitates when driving. We live in Kailua-Kona village, a no highway beach town, so all subsequent trips have been short, slow, and in traffic. I've driven it on sport mode and kept the rpms up in the high threes and low fours a couple of trips, and I've opend the gas ca and resecured it. Has it forgotten how to Subaru? I'm thiking the computer needs to be retrained? Best way? Highway trip, reprogram, has something been damaged? :-(
  5. I inadvertently left the ignition on while cleaning the car, and after 18 hours it was seriously dead. Got it started with a jump (yes red to red, black to black) which did take some cranking and fussing. Since then it is hard to start, idling way low (loping between almost zero and 250 rpm), stumbles, feels like it's hovering on the edge of a stall in traffic, and hesitates when driving. We live in Kailua-Kona village, a no highway beach town, so all subsequent trips have been short, slow, and in traffic. I've driven it on sport mode and kept the rpms up in the high threes and low fours a couple of trips, and I've opend the gas ca and resecured it. Has it forgotten how to Subaru? I'm thiking the computer needs to be retrained? Best way? Highway trip, reprogram, has something been damaged? :-(
  6. First I would like to say hello and thanks. I have been using this forum for years but this is my first post. I bought this car 2 years ago with close to 200,000 miles. I was told it had a bad MAF but when I got there to test drive it (with an untested junkyard replacement MAF) it had a huge hole in the plastic next to the MAF. I duct taped the hole and tested both MAF and got the same results (crappy but better than before duct tape). The car was throwing solenoid codes that were not MAF related...so I thought maybe she took it to a mechanic that did not understand Subaru's and mis diagnosed the MAF. The guy who said it was the MAF also missed the giant hole in the plastic. How is beyond me, but his credibility went to zero! So far I replaced: - The plastic/rubber housing that the MAF (and most vac hoses) mounts into. (whats that called) - PCV (new) - O2 Sensor (new) - 2 solenoids (EGR and purge control) - IAC - Plugs, wires, d cap (new) - MAF (junkyard) and cleaned the original - Fuel Filter (new) I also tried: - Seafoam - Alcohol and water into vacuum lines - Alcohol in the fuel PS... The alternator was brand new. First I did all of the above to clear a bunch of codes. The codes returned. I re-replaced both solenoids and IAC again (new, not junk yard this time). Codes are now gone again but the car has no change in performance. NONE. The car continued to idle poorly, surges really bad when trying to maintain a slow speed (parking lots), has a hesitation when accelerating (rpms drop when clutch is released...then after a 1-3 second delay it kicks in...it feels almost like a power band kicking in ...but it goes from crap to normal not normal to overdrive). I tried to drive the front wheels up on a curb but could not get the low end power to climb up onto it. When I start it, it usually idles between 1000-1500 sometimes between 2000-3000 and sometimes it fights to stay between 200-1000 or just dies (200-1000 is more common when warm). I have been playing with the throttle cable constantly to keep it from stalling so all of these RPM values may be irrelevant. I have found cracked vacuum hoses but no matter how many I fix nothing changes. I also removed several vacuum hoses (on purpose...as a test) but it does not get worse (removed charcoal canister, removed vac hose to pcv...one at a time...no response). It runs fine at highway speeds, gets pretty good gas mileage and starts instantly on even the coldest nights. I am at a loss! - I suspect a vacuum leak but my heater vents and 4x4 button work properly. Then again, my brakes have been acting up but introducing a major leak does not make it worse?!?!!?! - Maybe a fuel pump or sock issue. - Maybe a computer issue caused by playing with the screw on the carb (I read not to do that...it was too late) - Maybe I need a new battery (lots of corrosion on one tower) - Maybe my fuel filter got clogged instantly after replacement. - Knock sensor? IDK anything about this but it came up in other forums. - EGR...I can't get it off Random stuff that might matter: - I noticed a hose that does not go anywhere. It is a 1/2 inch hose that sticks through my passenger side firewall. It is about 9" long but does not connect to anything. It is dangling onto my exhaust pipe. Its a foot below the windshield wiper apparatus. - Charcoal canister also has a 1/2" hose on the bottom that goes nowhere (I think thats for water... is it not) - Charcoal canister has 4 nipples on the top. Only 3 have a hose connected, one is capped. If we call the 4 nipples a,b,c,d and c and d come from the riser then its a (If I'm not mistaken thats the one from the gas tank...this seems like it could be bad....No gas vapor odors though). - The lady I bought it from said she took the belt of the AC compressor - I keep hearing a clank that I suspect is a broken motor mount - Has the tick of death PS I am not a mechanic but can follow directions well enough that I do most of my own work. This is my 7th sub $1000 Subaru and I keep learning. Things like hoses, alternator, oil change, cv joints, and everything I mentioned above are easy for me. I don't have many tools or gadgets (vac or compression test stuff) but I have a muti meter. Things like clutch, tranny, head gasket mean its time to sell.
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