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Found 3 results

  1. My Subaru turbo history: '87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD '90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD '98 Forester S - EJ22T/DOHC swap - SOLD '04 Forester XT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD '93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, SOLD '02 WRX wagon-SOLD '96 Legacy L - turbo to come>>>it's here Side note: I've wanted to build a '96-'99 Legacy Outback turbo'd wagon for years. It's still my favorite body-style, I like the higher stance, it's a very versatile vehicle w/its rear storage, roof rack and utilitarian interior, easy to work on and don't forget those Head Gasket issues (er, yeah whatever)...w/more power it'd be about perfect. Edit 6-2019: The kid that bought this 2+ years ago 'hooned it enough to need a new HG (he admitted to doing his best Ken Block imitation) and then appears to have crashed it....but I don't know that fershure. But it's totaled. :-( 8/20/15: Bought a '96 Legacy L Sedan w/128K miles for $1250. It had a 'tick' (look on here) that I thought was the Driver's side head HLA's but after swapping it out w/another set it still was making noise. Also was blowing some blue smoke on startup. Otherwise, car was clean and in fair>good condition - but definitely not a low(er) mileage gem. 9/20/15: I pulled the '96 EJ22e and installed a '91 (or '90) EJ22e. Block had unknown miles (paid $100 for it from someone who got it from someone else from our local PullnSave). I ran it in another project and knew the head gaskets were toast. So, I put an extra set of EJ22T (turbo) heads on it, plugged the oil and water lines on the passenger side head and have put about 3K miles on it since. Tangent: I have no proof and haven't driven a non-turbo 2.2 in a few years, but this 'hybrid' setup seems to have pretty good off-the-line torque. My guess is that it's the turbo heads as the stock EJ22T makes 20 more torque than HP, unlike most Subarus where the HP/Torque are about equal. But this setup sucks down the petrol. I'm guessing 20mpg is it for around town and when driving on the freeway @ 70-75mph it's the same. Maybe mid-20's on a 60mph highway cruise. Not a lot less than the stock 2.2, but not great. After having a local shop tell me what it needed during a 'buyer's inspection', I proceeded to save myself their $1500 estimate and did 99% of the work myself for about $500 in parts. I added the OB struts to lift it a couple inches so it'll be similar to a Legacy SUS: 1996 Subaru Legacy Maintenance and upgrades Suspension: 1998 OB struts with 45K miles (?) - LegacyGT.com Front and rear sway bar links Inner/outer tie rods R&P boot kit 1 (one in stash) Alignment Trans: ATF drain/refill Engine: Swapped in EJ22e from '91 and installed EJ22T heads and HG IM gasket Installed Delta 220 grind cams-cost $180>Removed 10/1/2015 - too lumpy New T-belt/waterpump, etc and reseal on the EJ22e/EJ22T when installed Tires: Summer: Michelin Defender 215/60R16 Winter: Hankook Ipike Snow tires 215/60R-16 on wheels + chains Other: Upper Radiator hose Tighten Trans Pan bolts to eliminate leak Adjust rear PARKING brake VC gaskets Power mode switch for AT trans 4WD Diff switch Upgraded to Legacy OB 10.7" front disk brakes w/dual-piston calipers (L model are single-piston) Mud flaps 2000 Outback front seats- power driver's (Tried some '97 OB seats first but the '00 are more comfy) Leather steering wheel Driver's side CV Axle - New Napa 12/2015: The car is 99% a city commuter as I have a 6 mile commute across town - top-speed of 35mph. Car runs great around town. I took it on its first road test to ski in Canada and had two experiences that made me think I needed a power boost (as someone w/a V6 RAV4 and numerous Turbo'd Subies I'm not a stranger to quick(er) cars): 1. Went to pass a neon (probably the last one with out blown HG/engine) and the guy was a jerk (hey, Canada has red-necks too) and sped up on a two-lane road. We were doing about 60mph and my car had nothing left when I went to 'go faster', so I backed off and pulled back in behind. 2. Went to pass a semi on another two-lane road and thank the gods we had plenty of open road ahead of us....I had time to note the weight gauges on each axle as I moseyed on by...painful. So, it was either the 2.5/2.2 franken-engine or adding a turbo (I'm not a fan of the EJ25D DOHC ticking-time-bomb). I had most of the parts for the turbo option sitting in my garage from past projects, so finally decided to go that route....although truthfully the 2.5/2.2 option was less work, and I had two sets of EJ22 heads I could've sourced. 2/7/2016: Here's my Legacy Turbo List for an NA (non-aspirated) car: * This is a 5 psi setup (wastegate pressure of the VF11 turbo) * This low-boost setup should run 'as is' w/out Engine Management (EM). The stock MAF can compensate for the extra air the turbo sucks in. * Notch Crossmember (I'll need to reinforce this. Use a '91-'94 Legacy Sport Sedan (SS) or Touring Wagon turbo crossmember for best application - and get the turbo front swaybar!) * Turbo - VF11 (stock from SS) - need the stock oil and water lines w/the EJ22T heads. Turbo’s coolant comes from stock EJ22T location and dumps into the return Heater-core hose by firewall. * Turbo inlet hose (stock from SS - bought one of the last new ones in the WORLD from a member on Legacy Central) * Re-route PCV, Breather, F-pipe, IAC - this is a PITA, and spent more time on this than just about anything else. I have the BPV, IAC and EGR all going into the same hose that connects the turbo inlet...have to wait and see if that'll blow up something. The stock EJ22T setup has a 'resonator' box between the air filter box and inlet hose that has the extra connectors, so I may have to come up w/another fix. * * EGR - reroute hoses: I'd already done the non-EGR mod when I installed the older EJ22 so some of it was already there, but had to redo it w/the turbo. * Stock SS Plastic pipe/hose from turbo to throttle body - it also mounts the BPV. * * Air filter box: Re-used Stock w/an existing reducer, to a piece of pipe, to connect to the turbo's 90° rubber inlet hose. * * Turbo IAC + one-way valve - The turbo IAC has a 90° elbow that allows it to clear. W/out it I don't think the NA version would work w/the VF11 due the turbo's bracket. * * Sti Fuel pump + kit - probably not 100% necessary for 5 psi, but I bought it w/30K miles for $40 so cheap insurance? * * Move wiring harness - the NA cars have the 3-connectors for the engine harness mounted right where the turbo and a bunch of other stuff must go, so I moved them more to the top/center of the engine under the throttle body...it's a tight fit. * * By-pass valve (BPV)- vacuum line source * Boost gauge - vac line * * Regap plugs to .030? (left @ stock unless I get misfires) * * Install turbo exh. Manifold and uppipe (new gasket) * Stock SS Downpipe, to an ‘04 WRX Exhaust w/about an 16" pipe (2.5" connector ends) extension in the mid-pipe, to a 2002 WRX axle-back muffler w/twin tips (slightly smaller than the ‘04’s single-tip muffler). Used two stock hangers bolted together to hang from the WRX hangers to get clearance.....for now. Edit: After getting a $200 quote from the exhaust shop, I replaced the mid-pipe hanger and 2 rear hangers w/longer ROL brand Rubber Insulator hanger. Part #: 511180. They got rid of 95% of the looseness in the exhaust and I'm going to just drive it as is. The hanger that's on the downpipe doesn't align w/the ’96 transmission's hanger, so it's not used. * REAR O2 sensor wire extension- 24" (my ’96 is a CA-smogged version and has the 2nd O2 closer to the front of car.) * LC-1 wideband sensor to read AFRs - I hope to be <12:1 when on boost. Any more Lean and I'll have to get a Fuel management unit (FMU)/ Rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR) to increase the fuel pressure to compensate. Most suggest a 6:1 for the MAF-based cars. (Not permanently installed.) * Run Premium/Super unleaded - we have 92 octane * Modified turbo heat shield * ECU / ECM from a 1998 GT, Outback w/the EJ25D. A '98 ECU from an RS or Forester may work also. I 'think' this ECU supplies more fuel due to the extra HP/torque and better flowing heads on the 2.5 engine. NOTE: I tried a '96 and got a code for the Purge due to the location of the charcoal canister. A '99 won't work either as it's the transition year to Phase 2 engines/Transmissions. ECU should probably match whether your car is Federal or Calif. model, too. * Edit 7/6/2016: Installed a cheap ($73 shipped) ebay downpipe (DP). Had my Subaru guru (just put new rings on the '96's original 2.2 - the bottom oil rings were seizedd, likely causing the smoke) install a bung (wire feed welder on stainless), and bought a used Grimmspeed DP adapter on ebay. Modified the connector piece used w/the stock DP. Added 50HP/Torque......not quite, but from what I've read online it should add SOMEthing. Still on WG boost. Edit: 11/4/2016: Bought an extra 90° turbo inlet hose but for an EJ20G as the EJ22T's sold out. Got it from Partsouq.com very cheap. Subaru 46023FA000 BOOT B JAPAN 87149900 $22.88, Total for This Shipment: $33.67. See attached pics: * IAC fitment of stock part - only about 1/4" between it and turbo. * Turbo one-way valve behind IAC. * STi vs. stock fuel pump (pic doesn't show actual size difference. The STi is MUCH smaller but flows a lot more.) * WRX exhaust * 16" Flex pipe for too short WRX exhaust. EDIT: swapped it out for a solid 2.5” ID piece I cut to fit. * Pre-fabbing hoses and wiring * Final hoses and wiring * Notched crossmember * Grimmspeed DP adapter - note it has the stock donut gasket installed - that's NOT included but just swap over the stocker.
  2. Ok so this is probably been answered someplace unknown to me. I have a 1999 Subaru legacy outback SUS EJ25D with the 8 bolt bell housing hookup. I continue to run into people saying that car is type specific as far as engines go. what are my options? can I use a JDM 4 bolt EJ25D or EJ22 because I cant seem to find a 25 that's not high miles and very expensive 1300$ was the best I could find. I am interested in these 4 bolt JDM motors. will they work Plug and Play with my 99 SUS? Thanks all this is the JDM I would like to use
  3. Hi, my 1999 Legacy SUS was recently totaled and I'm in dispute with the insurance company but perhaps I'm wrong and am hoping one of you good folks can help shed some light on the subject as google has NOT. I thought my vehicle was of the limited edition ilk and the vehicle was was repaired (body work) prior to my purchase several years ago. My question is this, "how can I tell for sure if my SUS was a standard edition or a limited edition"? Here's what it has: hood w scoop rear spoiler gold and silver wheels heated seats leather walnut interior trim around gear shift, stereo, door panels CD Sliding sun roof Power windows and door locks Keyless Entry ABS
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