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Showing results for tags 'tach'.
Found 6 results
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Hello, Back ground info: I have a 1994 Legacy Wagon. 2.2L, AWD, NA, 200,000 + miles. Conditions: 25 degrees for the past month. Snow on the ground. Recently replaced the Alternator. -- Problem -- Today I started my Legacy and it fired up like always. I drove about 3 miles. Motor warmed up like it should. All was running normally. I pulled into a gas station and filled my tank. Back out on the road, the motor began to run poorly. I could not accelerate, the motor lacked power. The check engine light NEVER came on. As I drove forward the car seemed to buck back and forth, yet the tach remained at a set RPM. Back home, I looked the car over. The car would run and Idle. The exhaust smelled sort of sour. There were some sounds of a miss fire. The motor did not bounce or vibrate as if to be running on 3 plugs. I could rev the motor up to 3K with no complaint. I let the motor cool. Then tried to drive it down the street. The problem had not gone away. Now, the motor will not fire up. When I turn the key to the RUN position, 3 seconds after I get a wild relay clicking sound coming from under the hood. While this sound is happening the fuel line going from the fuel filter to the motor (injectors) is pulsating to match. BUT, the lines coming from the fuel tank are not pulsing. Also, the check engine light comes on and matches the relays click sounds. And the tach needle bounces wildly. The motor will turn over but will not fire up now. I mentioned that I'd changed the alternator, just in case someone might have a connection. I changed the alternator two weeks ago and the car has run perfect since them. Also the cold weather has been on the ground here for the past month or so. I recall replacing the alternator in an icy cold wind storm. The pulsing fuel line from the motor to the fuel filter is a good clue. But I cant find any relay in the area that matches the clicks. I've felt the injectors and they are not making any sound or movement. If you might have a hint, please send it my way. Thanks for reading this. Rog -
Started my Loyale this morning and the tach isn't working. Cant find anything in my Chilton manual about it. Anyone have experience with this?
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Hey all. JUst did an EJ18 in a 87 GL-10. Runs great but I've got the typical non-op tachometer after hooking up the EJ ECU. This isn 't a big deal, but the owner would like to get it working at some point. I know this has been solved by some of the awesome electro-techno guys on here. Anybody got a solution for me? Hook it up to the coil directly? Some kind of modifier circuit? Thanks in advance. -
Hi All, I have a gorgeous 1985 Turbo Sedan in incredible condition inside and out, but the car hasn't been starting for months. And a snowy Boston winter is when I need it most! Car can be seen here: http://www.checkoutthiscar.com/2012/09/pleasant-pleiades-83k-mile-1985-subaru_14.html I hate to see the car garaged and not running, and I bought this little mountain goat to use it!! Just to preface, this is my first post, though I've read every last thread I could find related to this subject. I must be missing SOMETHING, but I can't figure it out. I've been at this for literally five weeks and I feel like I'm at a dead end. Here goes... Car cranks but no spark at coil. Primary and secondary circuits are within spec on a new Accel 8140(?) coil. Coil reads ~12V at both + and - terminals. Importantly, the tach does not respond when cranking. I have tried 2 separate digital gauge clusters to no avail. Coil is connected as follows: black/white from distributor to + 12V from harness (black/white) to + yellow from distributor to - yellow from harness to - thick black ground from harness to - I have a loose plastic connector from distributor not connected (what is this?) I have tried 3 separate distributors. Original, junkyard, and rebuilt/tested from Advance Auto Parts. Same problem with each = no spark at coil. Tested all HT leads from coil to distributor and cap to plugs. All good. Cleaned all pickups on old cap and rotor. Tried new cap and rotor. Took off both fenders and tested continuity of all wires through engine compartment and under dash, etc. I cannot locate a fault anywhere! I've installed a new battery and have not checked the charging system since the car won't fire. I'm getting fuel and the pump functions with green connectors attached, and also as the starter is cranking. Pressure and compression are great and consistent among all cylinders. Timing is set properly, and rotor points at #1 cylinder when flywheel is at TDC. I'm sure I've gone through other systems and sensors over the past 5 weeks as well, but they're escaping me at this point... Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions for me. I'll be forever indebted! Many thanks, Andrew -
I've got a couple of strange questions. I've got a 2000 OBS w/ standard transmission and was wondering if there is a sensor telling the computer what gear the car is in. I was thinking it's pretty unlikely but was just curious. If so is it possible to get this information from the computer to an external circuit? Does the computer read the tach? Again, if so is it possible to get this info from the computer to an external circuit? Thanks in advance. Jimbo -
My cluster only has a speedometer and the subaru car HUD (4wd, parking brake, etc). I kind of wish I had a tachometer. If anyone had a spare cluster like this, I'm willing to buy it. Anyone know if it's plug and play? Would it be easier to buy an aftermarket tach gauge to stick somewhere on the dash? Thanks
