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Found 2 results

  1. Silverbull3t

    Silverbullets' resto

    Hi all, this is my first post on this forum despite making an account some years ago so thought I would show off my project of 8 years which is on the road at last as of this week. I've been a member on the Aussie Ausubaru forum for many years, there's not so much activity over there these days but it is good to see so much activity on this forum To start with a little backstory; This is a 1981 GL wagon that my parents bought new in 1981. It was originally dual range 4 speed, EA81 of course. It used to be silver hence my user name and the name of the car (it used to be jokingly referred to as the silver bullet in my family because it was so slow) Even though it is blue now I don't think I can shake the name. It was also my brothers first car, and then my first car. By the time I got it there was a few rust holes and the engine was very tired, everything was very tired. I decided to take it off the road completely and do a ground up restoration with mods...I parked it for the last time towards the end of 2012! So this is the 9th year currently, but there has been a few years of accumulative hiatus in that time for various reasons. There is too much information to put into one post, I had/have 3 threads on Ausubaru detailing all the work that has been done on the engine, suspension, bodywork, interior. So I will just put a list of mods and a couple of collages so maybe you can get an idea of how much work has gone into this car. It is on the road at last and I'm currently breaking in the engine. All going pretty well so far, it gets better and better with each passing kilometre. I plan to do lots of camping and road trips in this car, with some light 4WD'ing as well. Mods: - EA81 twin carb (true twin carb engine with the larger swapped valves) fully rebuilt - Megajolt EDIS programmable ignition, distributor deleted - Custom made (by me) stainless exhaust, 2 1/4" mandrel bends and V band clamps, purge welded with TIG - A/C, power steering - L series 5 speed - L series complete front suspension, brakes, hubs, axles with slightly modified control arms, custom chromoly adjustable radius rods - Disc brake rear end, braided brake lines all round - 2 inch lift kit - 6 Gauge "tacho dash" instrument cluster, had to make a custom PCB to drive the tacho off the EDIS. Used the tried and true 555 timer tacho circuit - Full custom re-wire front to back, all designed by me, using a Liberty/legacy fuse box in the engine bay - LED lighting throughout - 90 amp Nissan alternator - CB radio mounted in a center roof console along with L series room light and map lights - Outback front seats, extensively modified mounting points on the seats so I could use the Outback seat rails. - Double DIN touch screen head unit with Android auto, 4 speaker sound system with amplifier and a slim sub in the boot inside a custom fiberglass sub box. - "cyclops light" passing light which wasn't a factory option hear in Australia - 4 x 114.3 stud pattern - this wasn't done by me but the previous owner of all the hubs and L series gear I bought. I'm wishing they hadn't done it now because ironically getting the wheels I want is easier for 4 x 140 now. I'm having to buy new steel wheels and get them extensively modified to change the offset and rim width. The alloys in the pics aren't right for this car in more ways than one. -Alloy front and rear bars with a rear spare tire carrier - Air adjustable rear shockers That will do for a start, I think that is most of it but I feel like I'm missing something. Of course something that isn't really a mod is all the rust repairs and body work that were done way back at the start. I cut all the rusty steel out and welded new metal in. Thankfully in this part of the world the rust wasn't too bad, I've seen the same car at wreckers that look like they've been stored under water. The paint job is something I got done professionally since I didn't want to compromise on the result and hate painting of any description. I think it was worth the money to get it done properly. I also got the rear seat re-upholstered professionally, and this was the second most expensive thing in this car after the paint job! Also worth it though. Well done if you read through that novel, here's a few pics. I need to take some more updated/recent pictures of it though, and shoot a decent video so you can hear what it sounds like. Feel free to ask any questions on any of the mods I've done.
  2. Hi, My gyroplane has an EA81 twin carb engine that was overheated to siezure and has now been rebuilt but it runs rough and does not develop the power it should. The rough running does not allow an idle below 1200 RPM as it causes the gearbox to chatter, previously it would idle down to 800 RPM. The engine seems to smooth out as the revs increase but the power is down as the new engine will not rev past 4800 RPM whereas previously it would go to 5400 RPM with the same pitch on the propeller. The engine was 700 hours old before this rebuild with compression significantly lower than has now been achieved. The work done Cylinder heads professionally machined and rebuilt, new valve seats, valves and valve springs Cylinder blocks decked, bored 0.5 oversize. New pistons and rings Pushrods checked for straightness Pistons, rods and crank rebalanced Camshaft checked, it is believed to have been mildly ground in the past but I did not measure it up when I had it out. Reconditioned carburettors with butterfly shafts bored and bushed, Hitachi carbs, float levels correctly set. New sparkplugs, distributor cap and points, points were set with dwell meter. New spark leads were not replaced as they were only 30 hours old. One lead measured high resistance and was replaced. All 5 leads were then exchanged with a set from another engine that is running well without improvement of symptoms. Alternator reconditioned. New oil pump Waterpump approximately 30 hours old. Battery is 30 hours/12months old and in good condition. Engine was rewired approximately 30 hours ago, some was heat damaged and repaired. Spark plugs,coil and points have been replaced yet again in sequence without improvement. Currently cylinder compression ranges from 175 psi to 195 psi. There is no water in the oil or other indication of head gasket issues. Ignition timing is set at 30° BTDC at 3500 RPM, this results in 4°BTDC at 1200 RPM (with vacuum line attached). Distributor has not been rebuilt but timing light gives a very solid and stable visibility of marks on the flywheel up to 4000 rpm, and was not tested any higher. Valve clearances have been checked and rechecked at 0.25mm inlet and 0.35 mm exhaust. I have sprayed carby cleaner liberally around all manifold and vacuum connections looking for a leak without success. I have balanced the carburettors with a vacuum meter. I have disconnected the carburettors one at a time and sealed the air intake forcing each carburettor to be the only carburettor in turn, no change in symptoms. Carburettor idle solenoids were disconnected in turn with a significant deterioration of the idle in both cases. I run the engine on 98 octane fuel with a valve seat protection additive. The engine does not overheat when running. Oil pressure is good. I cannot hear any pinging or knocking but engine is run without a muffler so these would only be heard at low rpm. Is it possible for symptoms to be caused by missaligning the camshaft by one tooth? Would the compression suffer if this error was made? I don't believe this is at all likely as I remember viewing the alignment mark through the large bevelled hole on the crank when reassembling but if somebody knows the symptoms of this error it would save some hair pulling on my part. Otherwise I am devoid of ideas having replaced or swapped out everything I can think of. Any suggestions out there? Cheers and thanks