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Showing results for tags 'voltage'.
Found 3 results
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Hi, I've a 2005 Forester which seems to run OK driving, but when I come to idle it stalls. In my analysis I am up to testing the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. After 4 tests I get a voltage of 3.6v out of the signal wire with the key on - engine off. The manual says it should be 1.7v - 2.4v With ignition running it drops to 2.9v - 3v. The manual says it should drop to 1.1v - 1.6v. I am asking as my manual does not specifically say it's for my car as it's description for telling me model and VIN numbers are different to mine. I suspect it's an American manual and this car is a Japanese build. Thus this question is to confirm I'm right before dropping > $AUD450 on a MAP sensor. My results above imply that the MAP sensor is working somewhat due to the voltage drop, but it's no where near the suggested ranges. Can anyone confirm I'm right please? -
Additional info required: A while ago (like a year or more) there were some threads floating around about O2 sensor voltage readings in the 3+ volt range on diagnostic scanners. I don't recall there being a clear answer as to the reason at the time. I have had some O2 sensor issues recently so I went digging for info and basically found that the reason for the trouble was that I bought the wrong type of sensor. I bought an O2 sensor, when what I needed was an Air/Fuel Ratio sensor. The problem was on a Toyota, but the same principles of how the sensors differ apply to every brand of vehicle. The link below comes from a website we use in school, and has tons more info about various sensors and their functions, as well as dozens of other tech articles that can be useful during diagnosis of a problem. What my issue boiled down to is the ECU was getting a reading of incredibly lean mixture from the O2 sensor. Because on an O2 sensor rich = high voltage and lean = low voltage. but wih an A/FR sensor its the opposite, rich = low and lean =high. The ECU would add more fuel and get a rich voltage back rom the sensor,except the ECU is programmed to read high voltage as lean, even though the sensor was responding as it should. And so the cycle repeats itself until the ECU can no longer adjust, which in this case pegged the Long Term Fuel Trim at 44.5%. But back to the point, if you get oxygen sensor voltage reading in the 3V range on a scanner, its because you have an Air/Fuel Ratio sensor, which gets supplied a reference voltage of 3.3V from the ECU. The sensor then bumps up (if lean) or bumps down (if rich) the return voltage signal back to the ECU. Some ECUs convert scanner output to a normal O2 sensor output voltage to avoid confusion, but not all. Be sure of what you have before purchasing a replacement sensor. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf -
alright so, recently I got this 88 GL and it was great for about a week. Since then I have replaced both the alternator and the battery and I'm still getting a charge reading of 11.5v when the car is started. I've cleaned some connections and still the same. I've been getting suggestions to swap out the battery cables and I just wanted to chime in here and see if anyone has any good resources for trouble shooting or has had a similar experience and can point me in the right direction..... Oh also! I'm now on my second NEW alternator in 3 days.....got the first new one tested today and they told me it was bad....literally bought the thing 3 days ago....good thing it was under warranty. Let me know what y'all are thinking.
