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The Beast I Drive

What Im workin on now.....Update: IT LIVES!!!

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Nice shocks, Rancho makes good products (Dad/Mom had a '88 Hilux and dad added stiff rump roast Ranchos to it!)

 

Anyway back on topic, Just had a thought pop in my head. How come no one ever took some stiff gas charged shocks and use them in the rear on a wagon? Why do you need a coilover? To me, it you can get a stiff shock there is no need for the coil spring. (Any thing I'm over looking?)

 

-Tom :)

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Nice shocks, Rancho makes good products (Dad/Mom had a '88 Hilux and dad added stiff rump roast Ranchos to it!)

 

Anyway back on topic, Just had a thought pop in my head. How come no one ever took some stiff gas charged shocks and use them in the rear on a wagon? Why do you need a coilover? To me, it you can get a stiff shock there is no need for the coil spring. (Any thing I'm over looking?)

 

-Tom :)

 

You could, but you would need Nitrogen charged struts. Shocks are for dampening, not load bearing. The springs bear all the wieght, and the shocks just keep the springs under control

 

-Bill

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Did some minor work on it since last night. I made up the primaries for the exhaust, then ran out of 1 7/8" bends :mad: so I ordered some new ones from Summit, and am waiting for those to build my new exhaust. Took off the oilpan tonight, and was a little disturbed by what appeared to be small chunks of metal in the oil :-\ Oh well, it ran fine, so Im not worried about it. Found both my motor mounts are broken, so those will be replaced after the new OEM oil pan dries (painted it to match my lift blocks :grin:) Also will be getting some new 4 speed mounts from Logan (Schatzi). I also modified my horribly mangled anti-pitch rod to accomodate the lift, and I rigged my shifters to work better, extended the gearshifter 1" below the bushing, so it shortened the throw a little. Also bent it a little bit more toward the driver seat, so I dont have to punch my passenger in the knee to get in reverse now :banana:. Also took the struts out and did some much needed strut tower clearance bashing (didnt do enough the first time) and now there is no more steering binding.

 

This weekend I have to build about 4 full lift kits, but I still plan on getting my radius rods extended 1" and sleeved with pipe, as well as plating my new (straight) lower control arms with 3/16" diamond plate :grin: and trimming the front fenders to clear the mud tires. Once its able to move under its own power, I will put the street tires on and make diamondplate fender flares and fix the tail light wiring, install the correct shocks, replace the lower radiator support, finish the exhaust, build a skidplate and bumpers, and then go wheelin'! :banana: Or something like that....

 

-Bill

 

Hi, what were the symptoms of the steering binding you mentioned, relating to strut clearance issues? I have had a problem with my steering binding up on my '78 lifted gen one brat. Instead of figuring it out I started driveing the '87. But I am soon to start on the brat, thanks. DP

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Hi, what were the symptoms of the steering binding you mentioned, relating to strut clearance issues? I have had a problem with my steering binding up on my '78 lifted gen one brat. Instead of figuring it out I started driveing the '87. But I am soon to start on the brat, thanks. DP

 

It was a clunking, kinda grinding sound from the strut tower, all it was was the spring perch rubbing against the bolts for the washer fluid tank... How tall is your Gen 1 Brat?

 

-Bill

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It was a clunking, kinda grinding sound from the strut tower, all it was was the spring perch rubbing against the bolts for the washer fluid tank... How tall is your Gen 1 Brat?

 

-Bill

 

I've got 185/14's on it, I bought the brat lifted, it is a 3-4 " lift. Someone put alot of nice work into this brat. The wheels are 14" 4 hole, wagon wheels, can't find any ID on them. Pusher front bumper,weber, custom steering wheel, low roll bar. I put a import hydro lifter engine in it 1600 and probably have 30 40 thousand miles on it. It's been sitting for years now and I am going to get it moving again. I'll be back for some more ideas when I try to figure out the binding in the steering.

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If it has 3" blocks at the x member and 4" blocks on the struts I think that might be the problem. The control arms on the Gen 1's are so short that you really can't do that kind of lift on them... The tie rods will be at too extreme an angle, and that could be where the binding is coming from... I tried a 2/3 lift on a gen 1 brat of mine and it made my camber go waaaaaaay off the scale positive and made it hard to steer, so I think that might be the problem... Check it out

 

-Bill

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I plan on having some fun in the snow this year, these tires will either be super awesome for it or suck totall rump roast and dig to much, Guess Ill find out when the white stuff hits

 

-Bill

 

I ran some 6X14 R1 tractor tires last year.They did awesome in the mud, but in the snow they were too argressive/too narrow.They dug right in and I was getting high centered everywhere.Now I am running 235/75/15 mud tires so I will see how those work..But those atv tires look pretty wide.You may want to consider running tubes in them.With the weight of a car on them turning in the mud they like to roll off the bead...

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I ran some 6X14 R1 tractor tires last year.They did awesome in the mud, but in the snow they were too argressive/too narrow.They dug right in and I was getting high centered everywhere.Now I am running 235/75/15 mud tires so I will see how those work..But those atv tires look pretty wide.You may want to consider running tubes in them.With the weight of a car on them turning in the mud they like to roll off the bead...

 

I am running tubes in them, they are designed to run at about 7 psi, and coming off the bead was a concern of mine. I know these work great in mud, they were on a mud dragster ;) but I will find out if they are any good in the snow when it comes...

 

-Bill

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