szybura Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 I have a 92 loyale ,that I bought new in Portland,Oregon. I know how this wagon has been maintained. It's a 5 sp 4WD that has developed a problem while turning a corner in 4WD. It binds up. If it's in 2Wd no problem exists. I can be on a hill and as long as the wheels are straight no problem but turn the wheel it stops. Take it out of 4WD and no problem. Shifting into 4WD on the fly is smoth,but shifting out you hear and feel it if it is in gear, in neutral it shifts out easily. I do not see brakes, as it needs to be in 4WD for the problem to exist. I feel a replacement trans may correct this,but I'm looking for some input. Can anyone help me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 DO NOT DRIVE IN 4WD ON PAVEMENT!!! Its NOT AWD, its 4WD just like any 4WD truck, ONLY use it on loose/slick surfaces. When you engage the 4WD, it locks the transfer gears and sends 50/50 power split to the front and rear diffs. its NOT AWD, there is no center diff or viscous coupler, and it was not designed to be driven in 4WD on pavement. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 It is completely normal for your car to "wind up" in 4WD around turns. You should only use 4WD for straight driving, or in slippery conditions. Even wet pavement is typically ok, as well as snow, gravel, etc. Don't use 4WD on dry pavement - you don't need it. I'm confused though - if you bought the car new, how is it that you don't know this? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 (edited) 4wd = the front and rear axles are connected the transmission with fixed gears. AWd = Front and rear wheels are connected to the transmission via some sort of mechnaical device that allows for some slippage between the front and rear wheels. You need to have slip someplace in the driveline, otherwise the drive train "winds up". Slip is allowed by a center diff, a clutch pack, or some other method. The front axle always travels at a differnt speed then the rear axle except for in a stright line. Even when in a striaght line the wind up (torque) is not suddenly disipated, it is still there. In 4wd the driveline is connected by fixed gears. In 4wd the slippery surface (gravel sand dirt snow ice) will allow for the slip. On dru roads this does not happen, and the wound up driveline binds, hence torque bind. Tis bind can be dangerous on dry and wet paved roads as it can tear apart the driveline, make shifing in and out of 4wd impossible, or cause a wheel to loose traction. nipper Edited October 28, 2009 by nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
szybura Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 You guys are harsh. Look it I've been driving 4wd and awd awhile . The subs were able to settle out a water convered hwy which is what we see down here. By the way even the awd/4wd rigs do not like dry road. My 84 gl 4sp dr would allow me to turn a corner in 4wd without binding up in hi range. The hill was ahill, no road. Drove a 84 brat that as soon as I shifted in 4wd going straight it bound up and it was binding in the front, tried to pull the sterring wheel out of my hand to the drivers side. With trees and such its had to get off road if I can only go straight. What could cause the binding going straight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 You guys are harsh. Look it I've been driving 4wd and awd awhile . The subs were able to settle out a water convered hwy which is what we see down here. By the way even the awd/4wd rigs do not like dry road. My 84 gl 4sp dr would allow me to turn a corner in 4wd without binding up in hi range. The hill was ahill, no road. Drove a 84 brat that as soon as I shifted in 4wd going straight it bound up and it was binding in the front, tried to pull the sterring wheel out of my hand to the drivers side. With trees and such its had to get off road if I can only go straight. What could cause the binding going straight? different tire sizes/treadwear. I cannot turn my 88 gl on dry pavement in 4wd hi or lo, without binding and chirping the tires all the way aroung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 You guys are harsh. Look it I've been driving 4wd and awd awhile . The subs were able to settle out a water convered hwy which is what we see down here. By the way even the awd/4wd rigs do not like dry road. My 84 gl 4sp dr would allow me to turn a corner in 4wd without binding up in hi range. The hill was ahill, no road. Drove a 84 brat that as soon as I shifted in 4wd going straight it bound up and it was binding in the front, tried to pull the sterring wheel out of my hand to the drivers side. With trees and such its had to get off road if I can only go straight. What could cause the binding going straight? None of those are AWD As far as binding while straight, it could be non matching tires, could be that you bound up either during a turn or on a dry spot and the drivetrain hasn't released the energy yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
szybura Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Tires. You know I had not thought about them. I have the same size but two different manuf. This gives me two different profiles. That I can understand. I'll change to the same manuf on all 4 and see what that does. Thanks, I appreciate the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Wear is also important. Mine is starting to bind in a straight line because I was lazy and haven't rotated the tires in the last 10,000 miles. That is with all 4 tires the same size, age, manufacturer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Put the matching tires on the same side of the car, so one type x on right front, one type x on right rear, type y's on left front and rear. That way differential speeds will match and the tire size won't effect the binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Put the matching tires on the same side of the car, so one type x on right front, one type x on right rear, type y's on left front and rear. That way differential speeds will match and the tire size won't effect the binding. That won't add additional wear and stress to the spider gears or anything though... :-\ If I had to, I would keep them like they are and abandon 4wd unless really slippery. Just to save my front and rear diffs My car had one different size on the rear when I got it, It SUCKED. Binding and the occasional chirp from a tire just in a straight line. Took me till I did some research and found that there is no center diff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 not good for the diffs. not good if you do an emergency stop and one side has more traction than the other. can end in a spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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