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Kia Sephia Sporty


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You were really revving that Kia motor ;) ...

 

Yes, the Engine on these cars is pretty Awesome, it is called T8D and was developed from a Ford / Mazda Design, for the Kia Elan; when kia purchased the Licence for the Elan from Lotus...

 

 

KiaElanExterior.jpg

 

 

KiaElanInterior.jpg

 

 

...and according to Wikipedia, it develops 151 Hp, not bad for a Natural Aspirated, Twin Cam, non-interference 1.8L engine; see:

 

~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Elan#Kia_Elan 

 

 

...What software did you use to make the video?

 

I use "Pinnacle Studio" version 14,

 

in fact I've been using Pinnacle Studio since the very early versions,

 

you can see other videos I've uploaded, here:

 

~► http://www.youtube.com/user/loyale27turbo/videos 

 

I've tried newer versions of that software, and I dislike that they made it Backwards, Easier for "Newbies", Just like what happened with Opera... a huge disapointment.

 

In my YouTube's channel you can see Videos of my Subaru "BumbleBeast" and my '69 Mercury Comet Coupe, as well ...  :D ... among other few Videos more.

 

Kind Regards.

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I drove the car this Weekend, and gave it to my Wife to test it, so she could learn the New Brake Feeling / Behaviour, during Sunday's Night; and at first she was a little Worried, because the brake pedal Travel has increased a noticeable amount; seems like we already got used to the High Pedal we obtained when I changed Master Cylinders, increasing the Bore...

But after some tests, she noticed the same as I: Along with the increased brake pedal Travel, the Braking Power has increased a Noticeable amount as well; and the Pedal is Soft and very Responsive at the same time.

So, she needs to push it a little bit more than it used to be with the rear drums, but the car stops Quicker and Smoother.

The Noisy Drums and their easiness to Lock, are Gone... Forever!!!
 
:banana: 

She went to her job driving the "KiaStein" today... and very Happy called me, to let me know that the Brakes are performing "Awesome, like never before", She was pleased ... That was Great to hear from her for sure. 

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Let me Explain Why I wrote that the Braking Power has increased.

The Kia engineers used a Master Cylinder of 15/16" for the Sephias with Rear Disc Brakes, instead the 7/8" Master Cylinders on the Sephias with Rear Drum Brakes, to compensate the increased chamber size for the Brake Fluid at the Rear Calipers, otherwise the pedal will go very deep prior to engage the Brakes at Full Clamping Force.

I had to change Master Cylinder as well, but since I never found the 15/16" one in Honduras, I Changed the 7/8" bore Master Cylinder to 1", that change increased the Volume of Brake Fluid moved on the System, Versus the Pressure.

Why? ... Because the Chambers for Brake Fluid at the four Wheel's, got filled earlier and that explains why the Pedal engaged Higher but needed more Leg Effort to get Full Clamping Force, even more: I calculated that there were certain little percentage of Brake Force Reduction, with the increased bore master cylinder; and to compensate the added extra leg effort, I changed the Single Diaphragm Vacuum Booster, with a Double Diaphragm Booster as well, just like the Kia Engineers did on their Rear Disc Brakes + 15/16" Master Cylinder Sephias.

So, when I changed the Rear Drum Brakes with Rear Disc Brakes, the increased Chambers' Size on the Rear Calipers, needs more Brake Fluid to be Moved, that lowered the Brake Pedal a Noticeable Amount, increased its Travel, and due to the Leverage Effect, that increased Travel lets to use easier the Full Clamping Force once again, at the four wheels.

So, despite that Disc Brakes has less friction area than Drum brakes, the Braking Force has increased due to the increased size of the Calipers, which also lets the system to use an increased amount of brake fluid, which compensates the increased size of the Master Cylinder's Bore, Perfectly.

Overall Braking Distances has been Reduced to the Half, during Panic Braking. Also without Dangerous Wheel Locking as used to happen easily on the Drums Brakes. There is a Reason why Sporty cars usually comes with four Disc Brakes: Safety.

Kind Regards.

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Believe this or Not, the Overall braking behaviour on the "KiaStein" has improved even More, seems like the more the car is used, the better it Gets; the reason should be that the brand new parts are still settling, you know, new Rotors, brake Pads and Calipers...

Once again: Many thanks to my dear friend Robert
(GottaCruise) for his Kind Help in searching those parts and sending them to Honduras; now a small honduran family has a much safer ride! 
thumbsup-1.jpg

Kind Regards & Blessings.

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I use "Pinnacle Studio" version 14,

 

in fact I've been using Pinnacle Studio since the very early versions,

 

you can see other videos I've uploaded, here:

 

~► http://www.youtube.com/user/loyale27turbo/videos 

 

I've tried newer versions of that software, and I dislike that they made it Backwards, Easier for "Newbies", Just like what happened with Opera... a huge disapointment.

 

In my YouTube's channel you can see Videos of my Subaru "BumbleBeast" and my '69 Mercury Comet Coupe, as well ...  :D ... among other few Videos more.

 

Kind Regards.

 

 

Ok, thanks for the info on the video editing software, I appreciate it!

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In another Subject; the engine on the the "KiaStein" is really a Nice, Noble and Reliable Engine, which Survived Flawlessly two (2) different horrid Overheating incidents.


The first one was long time ago: My wife called me from her cellphone, saying that "the car lost almost all its power, don't want to move" ... She pulled to the side of the Road. I asked how the instrument cluster's Gauges were Reading; she said everything was onto normal readings... except the Temperature Gauge, which was Pointing to the Sky!!! :wacko:

I asked her to turn the engine off, I went to help her and found the disintegrated Cracked Plug that sends Power to the Radiator's Fan; I cut the wires and tied them together, isolating with electrical tape... after that horrid overheating, I was expecting a blown Head Gasket, but No; the only blown thing was a very small hose of 7/16" diameter, that sends hot coolant to the intake manifold; beside that, everything survived like if nothing happened.

I Changed that Plug, with another Male / Female one from a Ford F-150 with thicker gauge wires. :D

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The Second overheating happened some months ago; also while Driving... This time she heard a huge "BOOM!" under the Hood and suddenly a cloud with sweet odor, covered her... She was in intense traffic but somehow managed to drive the "KiaStein" to the nearest Shopping Mall's parking lot.

The drive took so long, that once again, the Temperature's Gauge was up above the Red "H" Mark, pointing to the Sky!... She called... I went there and switched cars once again.

I found a Blown Main Hose from the Radiator's Upper Tank, to the Engine; let me show you the Culprit:

 

1618319_665951980117500_663608507_o.jpg

 

As the past overheating, I let the engine to cool down enough time, prior to pour fresh Coolant to it... so I took off the Blown hose, went to buy a new one, installed it and left the car sitting there the whole afternoon. Then, after I came back from my Job, I poured the Coolant and the "KiaStein" Started and drove like if nothing happened... and it Keeps working Strong, thanks to God.

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The Starter motor was acting with a Delay in 2012, I Changed the basket that holds the Carbon Contacts, which was Damaged, with a newer one that came off from a Hyundai Elantra's Starter; and it worked fine like that. But suddenly a couple of weeks ago, it developed a Delay once again, this time, caused by the Coil... so I had to change it,

 

 

let me Show you:

 

StarterMotorRepair.jpg


It is workin' fine once again.

:)

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Long time ago, when I swapped the Engine on the "KiaStein", I also changed the Motor / Transmission Mounts Nº 1 and Nº 2, as you can read here:

 

 

When I Swapped the Engine on my Wife's Kia Sephia, I took the opportunity to change the engine & Automatic Transmission mounts Nº 1 and Nº 2 from the Four it has:

 

HPIM7453.jpg

Here you can see the Brand new Sparkplugs I installed on the Fresh engine: Nippon-Denso's U-Groove.

Yes, I broke the Chair too...

 

 

but now, the other Mounts Failed... So I had to Change the Nº 3 and Nº 4 this week, let me Show you:

 

 

EngineMounts.jpg

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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It Really Amazes me how much Difference could make Brand New Engine & Transmission Mounts on the Overall vehicle's Feeling and Handling; I almost couldn't believe that the Difference could be so Big; let me Explain:

Prior to change those worn mounts, the Car used to engage the Reverse gear with a huge "Bump" Solid hit & noise, also it has a small "Bump" between first & Second Gear; plus the car was noisy on irregular terrains.

Since the Motor Mounts change, the car engages all gears, includin' Reverse, so Smooth that is almost not Noticeable, also all the noise is Gone!

But something "Extra" Gained, is that the car really feels Rock Solid in an Awesome Way, I almost cant believe that the car now could stand engaged in "D" completely stopped at a Traffic Light
(Semaphore) and the car does NOT shake nor vibrate, just like if it is in Neutral! :eek:

Definitively, I was underestimating how worn motor mounts could affect the Car's overal performance. Lesson Learned. -_-

Kind Regards.

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The "KiaStein" developed an Electric System Overcharge last week, the alternator is sending Directly all its Power and above 18 Volts, seems like it already damaged the magnetic A/C clutch ... banghead-1.gif ... The last time I changed the integrated voltage regulator, was in 2010, with a "Regitar" unit, seems like the Repair jobs on that Kia, are neverending...

 

 

EpicFacePalm.gif

...meanwhile, my almost 30 years old Subaru, continues working Flawlessly.

Thanks to God.

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Usually when the integrated regulator fails, the alternator starts sending all the Power out... for a while, then the Regulator shuts down the power output to prevent damaging sensitive parts; this one is overcharging... and continued doing that.

 

So, I decided to obtain a Second (used) Alternator, in order to have two; the idea is to install a known good one in the place of the bad one, then with enough time and patience, search for the Right replacement parts to fix the bad one, and once it will be fixed, store it in a dry place 'till the other one goes bad... so I'll never be in a hurry for repairing an alternator anymore.

 

I has done that with my Subaru, I obtained a second Alternator and I only needed to change it once... I have the removed one already fixed, waiting for its turn, on a shelf...

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Oh my waffles! ... :o ... After I purchased this unit, which was the Newer / best looking one, from all of the junk yard's ones, I realized it is an Aftermarket unit, not an original Kia product...

So, that was the reason why it looked like an Almost New unit.

This, is a Mando AB180140 which replaces:

The Kia 0K30D-18300

~► Click Here

I hope this unit will last enough to worth the price I paid.

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Yesterday I changed the Old Alternator from the "KiaStein" with the above one, that came off from a 2003 Kia Rio; the differences between the Sephia Alternator and the Rio Alternator, are these:
 

 

Kia Sephia Alternator's part Number:


AlternadorViejo.jpg

 

Kia Rio Alternator's part Number:


AlternadorNuevo.jpg

 
 
 
The one from the Kia Sephia has only 70 Amperes power.
Part Nº 0K241 18 300

While the one from the Kia Rio has 80 Amperes power out.
Part Nº
0K30D 18 300

Also, the Rio's unit has a slightly bigger Pulley for the Belt, comparing it with the one on the Sephia. But beside those differences, everything is identical; Plug & Play.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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It is important to be known that the Basic Sephia, which has manual crank windows and no power locks, etc... is the model that came from factory with a 70 amps alternator; the Luxury Sephias, which came with Power Windows, Power door Locks, etc... came with a 105 Amperes alternators... the Luxury first gen Spectras came with 110 Amperes alternators as well. All of those are phisically interchangeable, but they must match or surpass the amount of Amperes from the one that came from factory on your Car, otherwise there could be a poor charging issues with lower amp alternators.

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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