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You must consider that there are Two Problems with the Sephia's Brakes:

  • Weak Brake Power.
  • Front Rotor Warp and Premature Wear on Pads.

The Weak Brake Power has Two Causes

After I Disassembled almost everything on my Wife's Sephia, I Noticed that the Proportioning Valves, which are Located in the Firewall, behind the engine, has some sort of Design Flaw: Vertical Grooves.

Those Vertical grooves made the Proportioning Valves to Leak Brake Fluid while letting Air to get sucked into the System; you can see the Leaky vertical grooves on the Sephia's Brass proportioning valves, in the Following Photo:



Those were the Original (stock) Proportioning Valves, made of Brass... The Local Kia Dealer had the Replacement for those, but made from a different metal, which looks like Polished Stainless Steel with chromed tops, and Does NOT have the faulty Vertical Grooves, as you can see in the Following Photo:


This is their Part Number:


Think about this: Any Brake system that Loose Brake Fluid and gets air inside the pressurized lines, will have a Weak performance; isn't it?

The Leaky Proportioning Valves with Vertical Grooves will make the Brake System Weak, no matter how many times you Bleed the System, they'll let go fluid while suck air; So, I changed the original Proportioning Valves that had Vertical Grooves, with the ones with Newer design without the vertical grooves and new metal alloy instead of brass; the ones you saw in the Photos.

So, the faulty Proportioning Valves was the First Cause for Weak Brake Power.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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The Second Cause for Weak Brake Power is the Cause of the Second Problem itself: Warped Rotors and Premature Pad Wear.

The Cause for Premature Front pad Wear and Warped Rotors, was Not on the front Brakes themselves, (Calipers, Front Wheel Cylinders, Pads, etc... ) No. I Found the Problem that lead to the Front Brakes to have such Premature Wear, and believe me or not, the Culprit is on the Rear Brakes! ... :eek: ... Let me Explain:

The Rear Drum Brakes has a Self Regulator that Moves the Rear shoes towards to the rotating Drum as they wear, in order to maintain the same distance between shoes and drum, that keeps the same travel on the Pedal before the Shoe touches the Drum, even if the shoe is worn.

But since the Rear shoe Regulators fail to adjust the Shoes towards the Drum, the Rear wheel brake cylinder has to move its piston in a longer travel before the shoe touches the Drum, because the Shoes are
"Far Away" deregulated.

That means: When anybody pushes the Brake Pedal, the Front Pads will engage pressing the rotating Disc, while the Rear Shoes are doing almost Nothing to brake the Car, due to the
"Far Away" deregulated Shoes, they barely touches the rotating Drums.

So, the Front Disc Brakes will take the 90% of the Braking effort, while the Rear Drum Brakes will rotate almost freely...

You Notice that your car has
"Far Away" deregulated Shoes on the Rear drum brakes, if:

  • You Need to Pull up the parking brake lever handle to the Top to hold the Car.
  • The Brake Pedal feels too Low or it goes Deep before really braking the Car
  • You have to push even "Deeper" the Brake Pedal while going in Reverse.

So Basically talking, with those Faulty Rear Shoes Regulators, you have a four wheel car, being stopped -almost only- by the two front wheels, that Really leads to an extreme Heat working conditions on the Rotors, for their extra effort; so that explain the Warped Rotors and the Premature Wear on the Pads; isn't it?

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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First, I changed the Rear brake shoes and manually regulated the Brakes to the Top; the Pedal was stiff and Brake power good; while the Parking Brake Lever had enough power to Hold the car in the first two or three tooth. ... :) ...

After three weeks of everyday use, the Brake Pedal got Lower, while the Parking Brake lever needed six or seven tooth to engage. ... :( ...

After two Months of Use since the first regulation, the Rear Wheels' brakes where doing nothing, because the wear on the brake shoes was not compensated by the faulty self adjusting regulators, so the Shoes where too far away to let the rear wheel cylinder brakes do enough pressure to stop the car with the Brake Pedal, also the Parking Brake became a li'l less than Useless ... :banghead: ...

After Trying to Clean everything up in the Rear Brakes, also trying the Self-regulating procedures used in other cars
(Such like Applying the Parking Brake while the car is Moving Forward / Backward with and without pressing the Brake Pedal, etc...) without any success, many many times, I ended doing the Manual adjustment every Month.

Tired of that Monthly rear drum brakes Disassembly / Cleansing \ Regulation; I went to the Local Kia Dealer to buy a pair of Brand New Rear drum brake self adjusting Regulators, The Rear Drum Brake system found on the Second Gen Sephia does Not have a "Star" Adjuster, it uses a Ratcheting Cam (Named "Strut" by Kia) that is suposed to take up play as Brake Shoes wear:





I Really Don't know why Kia named those as "Struts"

... :confused: ...

Maybe I'm Lost in Translation again.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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So I Solved the Mistery:D 

Lots of People have experienced that same problem, Brake Pedal Fade and premature wear of the Front disc brakes ... and some never found the Answer to the Mistery; as you can Read few examples on this Links:




And illogically, I found that the Answer was on the Rear Drum Brakes!!! :eek:

Let me explain: The Rear Drum Brake system found on the Second Gen Sephia uses a Ratcheting Cam
(Named "Strut" by Kia) that is suposed to take up play as Brake Shoes wear, but definitively, such thing doesn't work at all due to their bad design, and as the rear brake shoes wear, their surface gets farther from the rotating drum and during braking, the rear wheels spin freely while the fronts are doing the braking effort, because the rear brake pumps can't handle well the extra distance without a useful automatic shoes adjuster, that means that the rear shoes are barely "Touching" the Drums under Braking, while the fronts could be at Maximum clamping force.

So, in order to compensate the normal wear on the rear shoes, the car needs Monthly adjustments to the Rear Drum Brakes to Keep said shoes as near to the Rotating drum as possible, and thus means to have a firm & tall brake pedal, and ensure that it has the proper braking power to be Safe.

However, I changed the old Faulty self adjusting regulators with the New ones, only to discover that those are Faulty too ... They're are very Bad designed: some sort of Lifeless Lump that does Nothing to adjust the rear shoes... The old ones and the new ones Never worked; that must be a major design flaw from Kia ... :( ... Just like the tiny Hole behind the Backing Plate for adjusting the said strut adjusters: Both are Completely Useless, there's No Tool capable to slip thru such tiny, misaligned hole to "Adjust the Adjusters" ... :angry:
 ... nor the Adjuster works as intended.

The Rear drum Brakes on the Second Gen Kia Sephia has another problem related to those Bad designed self "Strut" adjusters: Both sides Never ever wear the Shoes equally, and thus means that the side with more wear is the side that does more braking effort.

In those Rear Drum Brakes of the Second Gen Kia Sephia, I noticed that the Driver's Side, trend to retain the Adjustment for more time than the Passenger's side, which loose it faster; it makes me think that Tire Rotation and its Vibrations might has something to do with that phenomenon: The "Strut" adjusters might suffer from that since they're Weak, while the Old-School style "Star" Adjusters were Stronger.

In Short words, that tendency of the Second Gen Kia Sephia of Loosing the Rear Drum Brake's Adjustment in one side faster than the Other, makes Emergency Braking more Dangerous, since one of the rear wheels could Lock while the other spins freely...

So, the Sephia with Regulated Rear Shoes and the New Proportioning Valves has an Excellent Brake System; the Brake pedal become way more Sensible and the Brake Power is really Good ... but only while the Rear Shoes are Adjusted properly, and said adjustment only last a month ... :( ... The Self Adjusters are Completely Worthless and Weak.

I need to do Monthly adjustments of the Rear shoes
(to compensate their normal wear) in order to keep a firm and tall brake pedal and thus means a Safer car to Drive, and that monthly adjustment means to disassembly the Whole Drum setup, because the tiny hole that they have in the Back (on the Backing Plate) is Useless: I never found a Tool that "Magically" slips thru it and could handle the "Strut" Adjuster to the Proper position... That is another Design Flaw!

Once properly adjusted, the Whole car's Braking Performance is Great.

The only Real Solution for this problem was found by Kia years ago, to install Rear Disc Brakes! ... But only Premium models of the Kia Sephia came with Factory Rear Disc Brakes, and Kia sold very Few of those...

I Started to Search for Rear Disc Brakes on Second Gen Kia Sephias at Junk Yards, Wish me Luck!

Edit: About the Search of Rear Disc Brakes for my Wife's "KiaStein", please read this Thread on the Subject:

~► http://www.kia-forums.com/2g-1998-2001-sephia/103954-need-help-rear-disc-brakes-swap.html

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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I Never has to Touch the Master Cylinder, nor the Brake Booster or the Brake Lines; everything related with those were alright.

For those who has Weak Brakes and believe that by Changing to a Bigger Master Cylinder could help, Remember:

A bigger bore master cylinder will Not improve braking power; It will make the pedal engage higher and feel firmer, but the braking force at the wheels is reduced for the same pounds of pressure applied to the pedal. So you'll actually have to Push Harder on the pedal to get it to Stop as quick after "upgrading".

Master cylinder bore size is in balance with the Wheel cylinder bore size; Go too Small and the pedal will hit the Floor before the brakes are at maximum Clamping force. Go too Big and you'll run out of leg strength before hitting maximum clamping force. Simple hydraulics: the piston ratio between the master and the wheel cylinders gives you the mechanical advantage.

So, to use a Master Cylinder with increased bore, could Help in certain situations, such like those Brakes designed with a Lot of free travel on their Brake Pedal, to reduce the free travel while gets rid of the Spongy Pedal by stiffening it; but in cars where there is very short free travel on the pedal, a Bigger Bore Master Cylinder could make braking even worse, becoming too stiff the pedal, and thus means to push very hard the brakes for the same stopping power.

A Change in Master Cylinder diameter should be done with enough analysis and measurements taken, and Tests done with the Trial & Error method on a safe area, before driving the car on the streets.

In the Case of the second gen Kia Sephia, Kia Motors chose to change the Regular 7/8" Master Cylinder that is found on the Regular Sephias with Front Discs / Rear Drums brake setup, to an upsized 15/16" for those Premium Sephias with Factory Rear Disc Brakes.

So I will seek to Upsize the Master Cylinder on my Wife's Sephia, when I could get the Rear Disc Brakes, which I'm searching actively, with the Kind Help of other Kia-Forums' Members in USA, as you can see details in this same thread's posts and also here:



Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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So, the faulty self adjusting regulators for the Rear Brake Shoes, are the Culprit of the premature wear of the Front Rotors & Pads, plus they are culprit in part of the Weak Brake Power, because the deregulated shoes let the rear wheels to spin almost freely, while the front wheels take almost all the braking effort.

However, despite that I changed the Faulty self adjusting regulators, those are very Bad designed and are some sort of Lifeless Lump that does Nothing to adjust the rear shoes... The old ones and the new ones Never worked; that must be a major design flaw from Kia ... They're Completely Useless.

If you have a second gen Sephia with Rear Drum Brakes and you want to know how the deregulated shoes affects the overall braking behaviour, you must be aware that the deregulated shoes reduces dramatically the overall braking power, while makes the brake pedal to be Spongy and travel free a lot before engaging the brakes. That is why lots of people won Lawsuits against Kia years ago: Those Brakes are Dangerous, especially during Panic Braking.

You can do a simple test to see how the brake pedal raises and becomes firmer with the Regulated Shoes, without the need of doing the manual adjustment: you only need to Pull the Parking Brake lever few teeth 'till the rear shoes starts to touch softly the rotating Drum, raise the lever but not very strong; the idea is to let the shoes to be as close to the rotating drum as possible, while still they let the rear wheels to spin; then drive the car and apply the brakes with the parking brake lever standing there: You will notice how the Brake Pedal becomes firmer and needs to travel way less to stop the car, while the car stops easier with less leg effort. That is due to the four wheels stopping the Car, not only the two front wheels.

But you can not leave the lever up like that, that was a short test only; you must do the Rear shoes' adjustment or take your Sephia to a qualified mechanic to do such adjustment for you.

Important Note: The more you use the Parking Brake, the Less that the Rear Shoes' adjustment will last. The use of the parking brake deregulates the rear shoes adjustment faster than regular braking.

So, I'm somehow "Condemned" to do a Monthly Rear drum brakes disassembly in order to Adjust the Rear Shoes to compensate their wear.
(Unless I swap Rear Disc Brakes there) In that way, the Car's Brakes works Great.





So, the Sephia with Regulated Rear Shoes and the New Proportioning Valves has a great Brake System, the Brake pedal become way more Sensible since the car has the New Proportioning Valves, and the Brake Power is like many of the other brands' Similar cars.

After I Solved the Mystery of the Weak Brake Power and Premature Wear on front Brakes' parts; Beside Changin' the Faulty Proportioning Valves and the Rear Shoes' Self adjustment regulators; I decided to Change the Front brake's Disc Rotors & Pads:





And I did the Best Brake Job I Could.


The Car does perform Flawlessly since then

... :) ...

Except that I need to do a Monthly manual adjustment to the Rear wheels' Brakes.

... :( ...

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Have you ever experienced a loose sunshade that falls down to the windshield and won't keep "up"?


The Passenger's side sunshade fell to the Windshield and it was completely Loose on my Wife's "KiaStein" ... it has broken its inner clamp that tightens the sunshade's oval shaft, so it will not stay "up".


An easy solution could be to go to a Junk Yard and buy one in better conditions, but believe me: Usually our Local Junk Yards (Called here "Yonkers") doesn't carry such cosmetic things... So we had to imagine a fix.


My wife was about to glue some velcro to the sunshade's top part and to the car's Roof... but I disliked that Idea. :-\


A friend of us in similar situation, has placed an old credit card between the door's top plastic and the roof's base, sliding the card's half in that area, lets the exposed part of it to hold in place "up" the sunshade, but I don't like the idea.


So, I decided to open the plastic wrap on the back of that sunshade, and place there a brand new steel clamp, over the Broken one...






...and "Voilá" ... :) ... Problem Solved.



The clamp does look Bigger and Uglier than it really is, but it was small enough to let me "Reseal" the plastic wrap with a small piece of duct tape, and since it is on the sunshade's Back, is almost unnoticeable, and the thing does work like new.


Kind Regards.

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When I purchased the new -to me- Low Mileage Kia Spectra Engine (third Gen T8D engine) to replace the original one which came damaged on the Kia Sephia (it was a Second Gen T8D engine) I noticed that the guys at the Local Junk Yard, did changed its oil pan with another one which had a worn thread for the oil Drain Plug, also, the Oil pan was missing two 8 mm screws X 2" (1.25 pitch) and two 8 mm screws X 5" (also 1.25 pitch) so, that oil pan was changed for sure... and it was the Lowest Mileage engine I could find (Around 63K) So, I purchased the engine like that and used Helicoil to fix that worn thread, also I placed New stainless bolts on the missing slots.


But the Helicoil didn't work well, so after six months of use (Leaking Oil) I decided to use the Old (second Gen) T8D Engine's oil pan on the New (Third Gen) T8D Engine; but beside they looked identical, I found that the Screws which holds in place the Oil pan, are Different in those engines.


The Older (Second Gen) T8D engine used 6 mm Bolts, while the Newer (Third Gen) T8D engine uses 8 mm Bolts; so I had to Drill the Holes in the Old oil pan to let the 8 mm bolts to pass.

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So, I Removed the Oil Pan from the Spectra engine, in the Sephia:


It is made of Aluminium, and had a worn aluminium thread for the Oil Drain Plug


The thread was so damaged, that certain turns of it, came along the Bolt:



Edit, that was another Bolt I added to match the Helicoil thread in an attempt to repair that.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Warning... the Following Picture is Disgusting!


The Engine's Block has certain empty splicing pilot holes, which does match with the pins in the Oil Pan; those serve as a Guide to place it right. The Holes in the Block are around an inch deep and doesn't go anywhere; the oil pan's pins are much smaller than the inch long, but they cap the holes, sealing perfectly them. Well, when I removed the oil pan...



...I found a Cockroach's Cadaver peering from one of those holes:






I guess that maybe the Junk Yard's employee(s) who swapped the oil pan, put that cockroach there before placing the oil pan... I don't think the cockroach get there by itself while the Junk Yard's employee(s) where swapping oil pans.


However, it was really "Toasted" by the engine's heat, in that "Capsule" ... thmda.gif ... I don't know what they was thinking / smoking when they done that... duda.gif...

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I have tried in the past, many Silicones and Sealants; in many different cars / trucks.

Even OEM from many car brands ...


... and from my own experience I have noticed that the one who works best,

does flawless seals easily and Outperforms the Rest

while being inexpensive, is the "Mega Grey" silicone, done by VersaChem.


The Package's Back has certain OEM Parts interchange Chart:


VersaChem claims this about their "Mega Grey" Silicone:


As you can Read / Download documentation in .pdf file format, ~►



It is Vibration proof and 650º F temp is enough; also it bonds to surfaces with a Strong "Glue" Feeling in short time ... I have even done an "Emergency" Repair once to a ford ranger pick-up, I had no time to finish and even only giving one hour to the Silicone to Seal, was enough: four years without a single drop of leaked oil so far ... while I was thinking it would last only few months.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
To Add more info.

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So, I Drilled the Holes in the old Sephia's engine Oil pan to match the Spectra's engine size, from 6 mm to 8 mm, then I Cleansed everything, the Oil pan was so deeply clean, that I could even eat cereal from it:  :D 









Then, after the cleanup, I smeared enough "MegaGrey" silicone on its surface:


Then I installed it on the Engine, without using any kind of Gasket:


Of course i take care about to not letting Silicone to get inside the Oil pan,

but I let enough to get to the outer side.

Even , I used some "Mega Grey" Silicone on the Exhaust Gasket:



Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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My Wife's car - the "KiaStein" - has been monitored with a GPS + GSM Vehicle Trackin' & Disablin' Device,


Without our permission! ... :eek: ... 


See Photos & Technical Data in the Following Thread: ~► HERE.


Kind Regards.


► Edited to update the Link

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Despite that seems like no one Cares about a Kia in a Subaru Forums, I'll continue to Update this Thread...


I Hope that somebody could find the ideas given here, Useful.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Some time ago, when I did the Crazy Engine Swap on my Wife's 2000 Kia Sephia, I installed the Long Block from the Third Gen T8D Engine taken from a 2003 Kia Spectra, and used the intake manifold, the exhaust manifold and all the EFi stuff from the original Engine, which was a Second Gen T8D engine; and Despite that many people told me that it was impossible to make it work properly due to the Different Port Shapes & Sizes, I made it work Flawlessly and since that, the Car was Renamed as the "KiaStein", which has been Working Smooth as Silk since then.


But Since I Used the 2003 Kia Spectra engine, I also wanted to Upgrade the instrument Cluster on the "KiaStein" from the Simple No-Tach instrument cluster which is the Original to this 2000 Kia Sephia, to the one from a Kia Spectra 2003, which have Tachometer plus a Nice coloured Display with symbols for the Automatic Transmission Gears: I Really Like to Have Tachometer, I find it very useful.


Also, I've Retrofitted White LED Bulbs in many Cars' instrument clusters, including my Subaru "BumbleBeast" (as you can see ~► Here) so, my Wife asked me to do such Retrofitting on her Car, and I Started to toy with the idea about Swap instrument Clusters...


...and I Did it, Successfully!  ban-cha.gif

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I've already retrofitted white LED Bulbs on 17 different Cars of many Brands and counting, it started with my own "BumbleBeast" Subaru long time ago, then my Wife's "KiaStein" in the Old Non-Tach cluster.
My Dad asked me to do that on his Cars, then some Friends who saw my cars at Night asked me to do such retrofitting on their cars and some friends of those friends too... and friends of my dad, etc... it is the Snow Ball Effect somehow ...
So, I Retrofitted White LED Bulbs on this New
-to me- instrument Cluster, prior to do the Swap.

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There is some kind of Confusion between the "T" (Tubular) Bulbs Names / Nomenclature and I've received some PM's and e-Mails from people asking more info about them, (I post in other automotive Forums) they ask especially Cross-Reference info & Measurements; since I've retrofitted White LED Bulbs on Many instrument Clusters (Not only on Subarus) I made an Easy Pictured Guide, in order to Help you to Understand those "T" Bulbs.


These are the Most Common Bulbs for instrument Clusters:



Here's an Easy Visual comparison Guide:

The Wedge Bulbs Themselves are sold separately from the Sockets, But beside those "Wedge" bulbs, instrument clusters' also Use another kind of Bulbs which comes already Mounted with the Base, those are known as "Neo Wedge" Bulbs and are intended to be non-removable Bulbs ... Despite that you can remove 'em from their bases, those aren't sold separately.
The Neo Wedges are Known as the T3, T4 and T5 and comes either with Long or Short Bases
(which could be Black, grey or white) usually are placed behind the Transmission's shifter position numbers on Automatic cars with such display on the instrument cluster. (You know: P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1)


Short Base LED Neo Wedge Bulbs:
Long Base Neo Wedge Bulbs:


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By the way, I had to build my Own Neo Wedge Long Base LED Bulbs (for Kia, Hyundai, etc...), because it was easier for me than to Buy 'em online and wait ... I have to Cut the Base from a Used Neo Wedge Bulb, then remove a Wedge T-5 LED from its base and weld its electrical contacts, the LED Bulb already comes with its resistors; as you can see here:



I also covered one of those I Made, with a Condom-like Green Rubber, in order to Dim a little the Brightness in the Kia Spectra's instrument Cluster; (the one I Used for my Wife's KiaStein) it was for the "D" (for Drive in a Automatic trans model) Display on the cluster.
Kind Regards.

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Years ago, when I did the White LED Lights Retrofitting on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" instrument Cluster, my Wife asked me to do the Same Retrofitting Job on her "KiaSteinSo I Retrofitted White LED Bulbs on the Original Non-Tach instrument Cluster.


I Started by Removing the instrument Cluster from the Dashboard:
By the way, that moment I Discovered a GPS + GSM Tracking and Disabling Vehicles Device, 
Hiding behind the instrument Cluster; the car came like that from the Previous Owner ...

... so I Removed that Device and I Fixed the Spliced wiring Harness,
since then, the Car does Start inmediately.

 (It had a Delay between the Key Turn and the Starter act.) 
This is How it looks Now, behind the instrument Cluster:
There are three (3) Plugs for the instrument Cluster.

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The 2000 Kia Sephia instrument Cluster without Tachometer, 
looks like This from Behind, and this are the Bulbs it uses:

Four (4) T-10 for Background illumination.
One (1) T-6.5 for the Odometer Numbers & part of the Background illumination.
Another one (1) T-6.5 for the Low Fuel Warning indicator.
Fourteen (14) T-5 for the indicator Signals.
I Tried to obtain locally LED bulbs for the Rare T-6.5 size, unsuccessfully, 
and one of those was Burnt, so I searched for its part number:

and I went to the Local Kia Dealer to obtain a New one, 
I found the equivalent from a Kia Frontier
(yes, you read it Right) 
K 2700 Truck, we have many Kia Trucks here in my Li'l caribbean country,
Since many years ago, as you can see ~► Here.


Also in Earlier posts of this thread.

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So, I only found locally the LED Equivalents for the T-10 and the T-5 Bulbs:
And I Had to Use the incandescent T-6.5 while I waited for some T-6.5's purchased online.

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This is How the Old instrument Cluster Looked Like with Retrofitted White LED Bulbs:
I Used the Multiple Tip T-10 LEDs for Background illumination. (Beam Pattern 270º) 
And I Used the Single inverted Tip T-5 LEDs for the Signal indicators. (Beam Pattern 120º) 
I used the New T-6.5 incandescent Bulb without its Blue condom-like cover,
so you can easily notice where it spreads its light.

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After some time Waitin' ... The New White LED Bulbs Package finally arrived:
It included the Rare T-6.5 Sized LED Bulbs in Multiple Tip Shape:
Here you can see How Perfect they fit onto the Kia's Grey Base for T-6.5 Bulbs:

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So, I was Ready to do the Instrument Cluster Swap!  :brow:  
Here you can see How Both instrument Clusters Looked Together:
The Speedometer's New Design is Less Crowded than the Older one!
The New one included Five more T-5 Bulbs and One Neo-Wedge T-3 Long Base Bulb.

(Explained at earlier posts of this Thread)
For the Automatic Transmission's Shifter Position.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Remember that LED Bulbs does Have Polarity (+/-) So, if they doesn't Lit, 
Remove their Socket from the Instrument Cluster, Turn it 180º and place it there again.

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