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Kia Sephia Sporty

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In the Followin' Picture, you can see both my Diagrams I Did after Proceed to the New Plug's install; one diagram is for the Face of the New Plug, in order to be Sure which terminal belongs to Which Wire; the Second Diagram is to Show and to be Sure how the Car's wiring is intended for.


The Old Plug is the Red, hangin' next to the Dash, the New Plug is the one with Thicker Wires, next to the Plug's Diagram.




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Well... After all the Wires were Properly Welded and isolated independently each one, I proceed to Cover all the New Wiring from the New Plug's end to the Car's Wiring end and as Far as Possible, with the Best Electrical Tape I can Find.

The only wire that comes out from the New Wiring is the Ground, that already has a Welded Ring eye terminal of good quality, that one goes to a Clean Screw on a Metallic area from behind the Dashboard.


This is How I found the Wiring:

= Speaker Position

Kia's Wiring Colour ---
(Polarity) --- Standard Stereo Unit's Colour


Rear Left Speaker:

Brown / Green ------- (+) ------- Green
Brown / Black -------- () ------- Green \ Black


Rear Right Speaker:

Orange / Green ------- (+) ------- Purple
Orange / Black -------- () ------- Purple \ Black


Front Left Speaker:

Yellow / Green ------- (+) ------- White
Yellow / Black -------- () ------- White \ Black


Front Right Speaker:

Yellow / Red --------- (+) ------- Grey
Yellow / Black -------- () ------- Grey \ Black


This is How it ended up:




Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Wow, that turned out really well with the new plug-in! Very clean and thats how I like it. Wiring gives me a headache sometimes, and that definitively would have gave me a big headache haha!


As for those twister connectors, wow. I never use that, if I do need to connect two wires together I will either use butt connectors and then tap it well or I will use bullet connectors so it will be removable/plug'N play. Soldering is always a good idea, especially for trailer wiring.


I like that LED light bulb, never seen that style before, although, SuperbrightLEDs.com might have something like that.


As for the Processor cooling fan! WHAT!? That sounds like a very cool idea to keep the Head Unit cool.


Keep up the good write-ups, people sure enjoy them and gives us good ideas!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

When my Wife and I Purchased the Kia Sephia, it came from USA to Honduras in Regular shape, but the engine was Blowin' a cloud of white smoke that with time got worse, as you can read about that in prior posts of this Thread.


After changing the Muffler with a Brand New one and other minor jobs, we used the kia Normally as Daily Driver without issues but the White cloud of smoke became even worse; the Head gasket was Fine: I Test Compression plus there was no oil in water, nor water in oil and everything was working just Fine.


I thought it had worn Valve's seals and the engine was Leaking Oil; so I scheduled a Complete Engine Reseal, but then, after Checkin' everything around... I Found a "Dancing" (Wiggling) Main Pulley, let me Explain:



I Noticed that the Main Pulley, that comes at the Bottom of the Engine,


was moving almost an inch side by side on each Turn, so I Obtained a New one...






...Thinking that maybe the Old one was somehow, Bent.



I started to Change that Main pulley and What an unholy Surprise I Found!!! :eek:



The Timing Belt's Sprocket were Loose and the Previous Owner (or its Mechanic, I Don't Know),


instead of Obtaining it New, or at least a Good used one, did This:






With That Stupid Idea of Welding the Sprocket to the Crankshaft, not only the Sprocket wasn't well alligned (Making the Main Pulley to "Dancing" -Wiggling- as it is attached to the Sprocket) but also the Welding Burnt the Oil Seal there!!! banghead.gif


So the T8D engine was Leakin' Oil from that seal and the Welded Sprocket to the Crankshaft makes to Change it a Nightmare that involves to Change the Crankshaft and the Sprocket too...


First I Obtained a Good used Crankshaft at a Junk Yard, then I Was Searchin' for a Good Sprocket and evertything involved, but then I Realized that the Pulley's Vibration must have "Eaten" part of the Engine's Life with its Vibration that should damaged the engine's inner parts...


We continue to use the car as Daily driver while we got enough amount of Money to do a Complete engine Overhaul.


The engine was Blowin' White Clouds of Smoke and leakin' oil from that seal, but otherwise it was working Great.



That days, my other daily driver, my Subaru "BumbleBeast" Wagon, was in need for brand New two timing Belts, plus tensioners, etc... and we were short of Money & Time.


So instead of Doin' a complete Overhaul... I did a Crazy Engine Swap!


I Obtained another T8D engine but Second Generation. (From the '03 Kia Spectra, the Sephia came with the First Gen T8D engine) but I Only Purchased the Block along with the Head (Long Block) Already Assembled as it came from Factory, in other Words: my Wallet wasn't enough big to purchase the Complete engine from the Junk Yard, so they Taken off This Parts from the Engine:


(Parts Removed from the new Engine, in order to Lower the Price)


► Intake Manyfold complete.

► Exhaust manyfold Complete

► Flywheel.

► Front main Pulley

► Engine Mounts, except the one in front of the Timin' Belt Cover. (The old one was Damaged)

► All the E.F.i. Stuff, including ignition Coils, etc...


My Sephia still Ran with its original engine (Blowin' a Cloud of Smoke) and I Went to Purchase the New engine Driving it.


The New (to me) engine was Pretty Clean, came from a Spectra with 67,000 Miles; the car was in a Huge rear Crash and the engine was inmaculate, even its oil was Clear.


Since it came without intake or exhaust manyfolds, Flywheel, etc... I wanted to Use the ones from the old engine on the New; that way I will be Able to Run the New Engine with the EFi / Computer Stuff from the Old one... and the Swap becomes Cheaper! :)



Here you can see the Spectra's T8D Engine, inside the Sephia's Trunk, as it Came from the Junk Yard:




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This is the Sephia's original T8D engine (First Gen, says K6-1) when I Just Removed it from the Car:






Compare it to the Spectra's (Second Gen, Says K6-2) T8D Engine:







And here is a Picture with Both engines and their Differences,


so you'll easy Understand how the Swap Worked:






The Port Shapes & Sizes are Different:


The Sephia'a T8D engine Ports are Oval while the Spectra's T8D Engine's Ports are Squarier and bigger,


But the intake Manifold of the Sephia Cover Perfectly the ports on the Spectra Engine: I've Just "Been There, Done That"


So I Used my Sephia's old Engine Stuff on the Spectra engine and Worked 100% Well!


Now it has more than a Whole Year Working Flawlessly. :)



A Closer View of How the Sephia's Manifold cover the Spectra's Engine:






Here Both engines together, the Spectra's one is Inside the Car, while the Old sephia's one is Lying on the Floor:






I had to use the Sephia's engine Valve Cover,


because the Spectra's engine came without the Oil filler Cap,


and the Older one does Not match the New one.

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So, my Wife's Sephia is now the "KiaStein"




A Little Update: Do you Want to Know & see what Happened to the Removed, Old T8D engine?


I can go further and Show you:



I Dissasembled it...






...and Checked its inner parts Carefully...






...Piston by Piston...












The Welded Sprocket only took a Couple of SledgeHammer Hits to be Removed...


I Decided to Keep the Head, as it was in Good Shape...






...and Guess what I Will Do with the Rest of the Engine?



It is on its way to be transformed onto... A Glass Table! ... Like This one:












Kind Regards.

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The Second Gen T8D engine that came originally on my Wife's Kia Sephia and the Third Gen T8D engine from the Kia Spectra are almost Identical engines.

The Spectra
(Third Gen T8D Engine) has one Hp Less than the Sephia (Second Gen T8D Engine) Engine, but it has eleven more ft lb Torque.

But the Third Gen Engine is Built with Better Quality Materials, Better Castings and also has an improved Design.

In example: the PCV Valve on the Sephia's engine is Plastic, mounted on a Rubber O-Ring directly to the Head's Cover; while the PCV Valve on the Spectra's engine in fully Metallic, threaded and directly screwed to the Head's cover, as you can see in previous posts of this thread; also the Screws that holds the Oil pan are Nº 6 on the Sephia's engine, and Nº 8 on the Spectra's engine; etc... 

Funny Fact: Yamaha has a "T8D" engine designation, designed for outboard small ships.

The Main Advantage gained with the Swap is to have a Very Low Mileage, better Built engine which doesn't leak or drink a single drop of oil nor coolant, plus it doesn't blow any noticeable smoke, unlike the huge cloud of smoke of the previous one, due to its internals' damage; as shown in the pictures on the previous posts.

Driving Differences: Almost unnoticeable difference, because both engines are smooth, easy revving engines!

But now the Car Holds the Gear a Little Better on Low Speeds and it has way more than enough power to Pass, even on a Steep Hill Climbs and very Loaded... almost unbelievable Performance for a 1.8L engine ... see the Wikipedia info Below.

You might ask: Which was the First Gen T8D engine and in which model did it came?

When Kia Purchased the Lotus Elan Design License, They Built the Kia Elan and they Developed the T8D Engine for it, as a Huge Upgrade over the Isuzu 1.6L Engine that Lotus used on the Elan; so the Kia Elan was the Model that came with the First Gen T8D engine; as Follows:

First Gen T8D engine = Kia Elan. (1995 ~ 1998)

Second Gen T8D engine = Kia Sephia (Second Gen Model) and Kia Clarus. (1998 ~ 2001)

Third Gen T8D engine = Kia Spectra (First Gen Model: 2001 ~ 2003)




More info on Wikipedia: ~►Here.

Please, note the Engine used on the Kia Elan...


...is the Same T8D which is a DOHC 16 Valves Non-interference engine.


So my Wife's Kia Sephia still runs on a T8D engine, but the Third Gen of it from the Kia Spectra, which is improved; and that is the Reason why it was Renamed as the "KiaStein" :D

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
mispelled word, fixed.
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Good facts and thank you for all the info! That is pretty amazing it has 150hp, I am guessing torque it about 175ft.lbs?


How many speed transmission does the sephia have? 4 with some type of overdrive?


WOW! I am very shocked that Kia took over the Elan name from lotus, amazing. I liked the 60s Elans, fun tiny cars.

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...WOW! I am very shocked that Kia took over the Elan name from lotus, amazing...




Remember that Ford has agreements with Mazda and the Kia Company usually remake Mazda Products ... so Being based on a Mix of the Ford Scort / Mazda Protegè and the Lotus Elan, the Kia Sephia / Spectra is somehow a great car for its little value... I Know it has thin sheetmetal and could easily have dents... but is a Highly underestimated car for its real being.



...How many speed transmission does the sephia have? 4 with some type of overdrive?...


Yes! ... it is Automatic, it has the 4EAT transmission: Four Speeds plus Overdrive.


Did you Know that the 4EAT that first appeared on the Subaru EA82 GL10 is not a real "Subaru" Transmission? ... it also appeared on the Nissan Pathfinder from the Same era... by that time Subaru and Nissan were somehow Partners... But the 4EAT isn't a Nissan transmission either.


The 4EAT is Designed and Patented by JATCO (Japan Automatic Transmissions Company) and they changed some specs as each car maker asked.


Want more Info & Technical data?


- For Subaru 4EAT, click ~► http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/transmission/4eat.pdf


- About JATCO: ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jatco


- More info on Wikipedia:






~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions#4EAT



Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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About the Four Speed + Overdrive Electronic Automatic Transmission (4EAT) on my Wife's Sephia, it started acting some months ago...


First my wife Noticed the the Speedometer Needle started to read Lower Speeds than the actual car speeds, in example, the car was runnin' on a Highway at sustained 45 MPH speed and then, without any vehicle's speed variation, the Needle went down to 25 MPH while the car was doing the same speed...


Sometimes the Speedometer's Needle was reading Zero while the car was still in Motion... That caused the Blinking O/D (overdrive) Light on the Dashboard.


We went on a Weekend trip to a Mountain village in unpaved roads with the Sephia... and I had to do an Emergency U-Turn and Run Fast over Rocks, and that car Handles AMAZING on such hard Conditions, the Poor car suffered constant vibration for around Half Hour and Nothing got Damaged, no Shock Absorber, Coil, Steering Part, Brake, nor a Rubber...


But the O/D light still Blinks and the Check engine came On along that.


Since the Automatic Transmission is the Original on the Sephia and it has 140,000 Miles (the Spectra engine on it, only has the Half of that Miles) and I Doubt that the previous owner ever changed the ATF Fluid; (I changed it when I Purchased the Car, I just used Chevron ATF.) I Imagine that there should be lots of greasy, Muddy Buildup, Gum & Varnish...


The Overdrive button on the Shifter, Still Works! ... :eek: ... Because the Transmission downshifted when I pressed the O/D button, and it Returned to Shift Up when I pressed the O/D button again; like if it where working Normally...


Now that's Weird... Because the O/D Light continued Blinkin' and the Speedometer (the Low reading needle) Dropped to Zero when I Was Cruisin' on the Highway at 45 MPH... for about ten Minutes and that Thing suddenly started to Show 5 MPH... Then Returned to Normal Reading at 45 Mph... Hhmmm....


So, beside the Dirt on the Trans, I Suspect on Loose Wiring / Bad Solenoids \ Bad Sensors... but I started to Clean the Dirt first.


So I scheduled a weekend to Clean it the Best way I Could without removing the Trans from the Car. My Idea was: if that deep cleansing Fails, I will remove the whole Transmission to do a better inspection of its internals.


I went to our Local NAPA Store and I obtained a Can of "SEAFOAM Trans Tune" and I poured it all (a pint) to the actual ATF; then I Drove the Car for an Hour on hard "Stop'n Go" Traffic.


We Drove it with the Seafoam Detergent on it for a couple of days.


After that, the next weekend I removed the Transmission's Bottom (Oil Pan?) to Clean it all with Kerosene; and to Clean (wash) the two metallic ATF Oil Filters it has inside.

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The Cleansing Procedure Worked... Let me Explain:


I Drove my Wife's Sephia two days with the SeaFoam Trans-Tune, but only for a total of Fifty Miles, I Drove it on 1st Gear only for ten Miles, then on 2nd Gear another Ten Miles, in Slow Traffic, The Rest where Driven on Highways at Cruise Speeds.


Then I Went to Remove the Oil Pan of the Transmission while the Car was Still Hot at its Normal Operatin' Temps.


I Cleaned both Metallic Filters and everything I Could clean there with Kerosene; and I had to Say: Holy Cow! :eek:


Why: I Found around an Ounce of Metal Chunks... Some of them where very Big like a Bean, and there was Metallic Dust on the Residues; also the the old ATF Mixed with the SeaFoam Detergent, came Plenty of Nasty Lookin' Muddy and Greasy appareance.


The Thing Looked more like a Dirty Gelatine than ATF oil... :o ...


I only could remove a total amount of Four complete Quarts of Oil, from the 5.7 that the 4EAT Trans uses... So after Closing the Trans with both Filters already Cleaned, I Poured four fresh Quarts of Valvoline ATF oil.


The Results: That thing Drives Smooth as Silk, is Really unbelievable how the Trans has Smoothed like That, because I already was thinking (before the problem happened) that the Auto Trans on the Sephia was Smoother than many others I've drive, but now I cannot "Feel" the Gear Changes, only I Hear the Engine doin' Rpm Changes. ;)


But I've Noticed that the Speedometer Needle tends to Wiggle at Slow Speeds, in example: if I Cruise at 35 Mph on a Street for more than Ten Minutes, I Notice that the Needle Drops for a second to Zero, then it Goes to 35 Mph; and / or the Needle decreases to 20 for a second and then goes Back to 35, while there is No Real Speed Change on the Vehicle.


But that Flush I Did seems to work as Magic to Renew a 140,000 Miles old Auto Trans on a Sephia. :D


My Next Step was: To Change the Vehicle's Speed Sensor.


That is the one that sends the Vehicle's Speed to the instrument Cluster, so the Speedometer Works and the Auto Trans really Depends on that Reading to measure the Proper Speed to do a Gear Change.

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Avoiding Electrical False Contacts.

If you look behind the Radiator, at the driver's side, next to the Batterie's Base, you will see the two main electrical plugs with the Transmission's Wiring. One of those is Wide and is above the other, this one is wider and is for the Shifter / Gear Selector.

The smaller one, which is Squared and located in a placement under the other, is the one that could be the Culprit of the Transmission's issues, because it is the Link from the internals with the Computer, for processing the Speeds, Signals, etc... I marked it on the following Photo, as the "Seven Wire Plug" see:





In Short Words: If this Plug develops an Electrical False Contact, will cause to the Automatic Transmission to Shift Erratically / Stay in Neutral 'till you press the Gas Pedal, and display a Blinking O/D Light + Check Engine Light in the instrument Cluster.


"Electrical False Contact" = Means when a Fuse or Bridge wire is proven to be good / alright (Passing current from one of its sides to the other) but its ends / terminals are loose and \ or have enough corrosion to don't let the current to flow as it should, flowing intermittently or not flowing at all.


Usually this Plug gets Loose, Dirty and / or Breaks, which lets it develop such Electrical False Contacts... So, I carefully removed that Plug for inspection and did a complete Cleansing to both ends. I used Electrical Contact Cleaner in a Spray Can and a clean Soft Brush.

Cautions! ... If you want to service the Electrical Parts on the Automatic Transmission, this ideas could be helpful:

That plug has a Plastic Tab that usually Breaks easy, and it needs to be Lifted, to let you pull that Plug, so lift it slowly 'till you can remove that Plug.

Wait 'till the Engine is completely Cool prior to place your hand there, it get extremely Hot and could be Dangerous.

♪♫ Don't Forget to Disconnect the Battery, prior to start these Procedures.

Disclaimer: Use all the ideas / information \ photos I post, at Your Own Risk.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Thats great how smooth it shifts now! I want to drop the Transmission pan on the Loyale and clean it out really well soon, perhaps even run SeaFoam Trans-Tune thru it. Did you add it to the already full ATF, or did you drain some of the ATF out to compensate for the SeaFoam?


As for the needle shaking, I would suspect the speed sensor as well, is it Electronic or cable? I know the speedometer on the Landcruiser wiggles up and down when driving slower than 25mph, seems to be a common issue with them. Perhaps it is also common on the Kia?

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It is Electronic, so it Shall Not wiggle at all.


I Did not removed any amount of ATF Oil from the 4EAT before to pour the Seafoam:


I Poured it over the Old ATF so it was Overfilled, but that amount only lasted for Fifty Miles.





The Followin' Picture shows you the Metal Chunks that came of the Flushed 4EAT along more dirt, gum, barnish and mud:




Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Since the Flush & Cleansing, the Auto Trans on my Sephia worked smoother than ever, but I Noticed that the Speedometer Needle is Wigglin' and sometimes it Drop to Zero when the Car is Still in Motion at Cruise Speeds...


That makes the O/D Light to Blink.


...and that O/D Blinking makes the 4EAT to Shift too soon or too Late Sometimes.


Since there is Not enogh "Clear" info or Pictures for easy understanding the Sensors Question on internet, I did my own Pictures and here comes my Guide; I Hope it will Help many People with Same Problems.

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OH MY! Those are some large chunks. That will sure clog a valve body, very happy you cleaned out the Transmission more indepth :clap:


Yes, you're Right.



... I want to drop the Transmission pan on the Loyale and clean it out really well soon, perhaps even run SeaFoam Trans-Tune thru it. ...


WARNING! icon4.gif


Be Careful when you remove the Old, Dirty ATF oil with the Seafoam "Trans-Tune" detergent, because is better to do that while the ATF is still at Normal Operating Temperatures ... which means it could be Very Hot and Dangerous.

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I Choosed to Remove one of the Two 5/8" Hoses that comes and goes from the 4EAT to the Radiator, the one that sends the Hot ATF Oil to be Cooled there, and let it Pour (With Engine at Idle and Trans in "P") less than a Gallon...


Then I Shutted off the engine and I let the Rest of the Dirty ATF Oil to bleed out from the Transmission while it was still Hot...


After almost all the ATF came out, I waited 'till the things got Cooler and then removed the 4EAT's oil pan to do the Cleansing with Kerosene.


Around two pints of the Old ATF Fluid remained inside the Turbine...

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