Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Sign in to follow this  
Markus56

camber, angle blocks, and revelations

Recommended Posts

I have been thinking, when you are doing a complete lift, cross members, struts, the works, do you still need to build the front strut blocks with an angle?

 

if everything is going to be the same after you drop it, then you wouldn't need the top of the strut to be pushed in... correct?

 

or was i just being unobservant and the top struts were already straight...

 

or am i just plain wrong?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to make the blocks with the 12 degree angle that the stock strut towers have. If you dont cut the blocks with that 12 degree angle, you will get massive F'd up camber, worse than you already have. If you make the blocks straight-cut, when you install them they will sit like this looking from the front of the car

 

/ \

 

which will push the top of the wheels out and make your camber look just like this

 

\ ______ /

 

12 degrees is the factory angle, if you cut them a little more (say 15 degrees) you can get some negative camber, which will make the car handle better in turns.

 

-Bill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i found that it easier to lift the body 1.5 inches less than the suspention on the front. ie 4 inch strut tower lift with a 2.5 inch cross member lift,

 

the rear would be , 4 inch shock bracket and a 2 inch body lift .

 

you can over flex the front by 1.5 inches and the rear bu 2 to 3 1/2 inches

 

I would not want to lower the engine any more than nessasary or the rear diff any more than nessasary

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×