lostinthe202 Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I'm making an adapter plate to mate an RX trans to a SOHC 2.5L and the two top bolt holes from each pattern are too close together to accommodate. I've thought of a few of solutions, the most favorable being to bolt the EA side to the adapter and use nothing for the EJ side since there are two more top bolts on the EJ side on this model of EJ. How does this sound to those experienced in this? I'll be using all four dowel pins so I figure rotational forces are taken care of. What other solutions have you peeps come up with? Will- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 you need the clamping force at the top. there have been a few ways of making adapter plates, either with two holes drilled and tapped, or the area on the plate hollowed out and two studs welded together with the threaded ends in opposite directions. search and ye shall find... good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 ....or the area on the plate hollowed out and two studs weldedtogether with the threaded ends in opposite directions..... This I've seen on SJR's page, but I didn't really understand how it was supposed to work. With the studs welded together there is no way of telling where in the rotation the EJ side would tighten up so the relative angle at which to weld the studs would be individual for each engine/bolt combination and pretty subjective at that. Is loctite used? Or is the setup just counting on the fact that the welded bolt can't rotate so having it tight to the EA trans is enough? you need the clamping force at the top. So you don't think the extra two bolts is enough? They aren't on top for sure, but they are fairly high up. Note that the bolt you see below the starter is not the starter mounting stud but rather a bolt located just below EA = Yellow EJ = White there have been a few ways of making adapter plates, either with two holes drilled and tapped, Not sure what you mean here, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 (edited) That looks alot like my adapter plate for my EA 5 Spd D/R and yes the top two holes were super thin/close togethe, whenthey were threaded. Here is what I did..and if I have time tommarrow I will take some pics to show as reference. I first clamped the adapter plate to the trans with some vise grips and measured how long of bolts I would need to bolt the top part to the trans (this include the extra length for 1 flat and 1 lock washer per bolt.) I then bought the apropriate length bolts in grade 5 because it is sheer strength and not tensil strength. For me the bolt came through a bit...but if I added another washer to it it back it up into the tread too far in my book. So I stuck with it protruding a bit and then ground the ends flush (even a little recess into the metal) with the adapter plate. Next I took off the adapter plate and measured the bolts the will come from the engine....NOTE the bolts will now have to come from the front to the back of the engine since the tranny bolts are coming from the "stock" direction...In order for this to happen you have to drill out the exisiting threads of the EJ motor ....ONLY THE TOP TWO !!!!! I then bolted up the plate (using 1 flat and 1 lock as well washer per bolt) and then ground the bolts flush with the plate on that side as well. For engine install it is easier to bolt the plate to the engine and install as a unit. Because now all you have to do is put the bolts back in the "stock" location...bolting them in from the tranny side. OH and yes I used all dowel pin as well. Two EJ and Two EA Hers a couple of pics I found in my photobucket...they may help...will try to get mor etommarrow Hope this helps. YMMV Edited January 7, 2010 by Mugs found pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 (edited) Regarding the two top-most holes that are so close together - if you make the outer holes a smaller diameter thread than the inner holes, you can fit both of them on the plate with about 1.5 - 2mm of material left between the two. That's how the laser cut plate I have was done. I beleive the inner's are 10mm, and the outer's are 8mm. Being that it's most common to use the EJ22's in combination with the 5 speed D/R, most of the plates disregard the extra holes of the EJ25's and just go for the bottom studs and the top holes with properly located and chamfered holes for the dowel pins. GD Edited January 7, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 OK, I didn't realize drilling the top two bolt locations through and bolting in from the back side was an option, I'll have to scrutinize that. That must mean on the welded stud that the upper hole is drilled out and a nut is placed on the each side eh? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 heres mine Ive never used the allingment dowels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 So you drill out the engine side and thread those studs into the plate from the engine side then use the existing EA bolts on top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I think the idea is that you use studs on both sides of the plate on top. Threaded into the plate, the plate can then be mounted on the engine (after drilling the threads in the bell-housing), and then the transmission can hang on the studs pointing away from the engine. The trick is to just use a smaller OD thread for the engine side studs - this allows enough material so the threads don't interfere with each other and normal studs can be used. Proper location of the alignment dowels prevent incorrect alignment between the input shaft and the pilot bearing in the flywheel. If this isn't done accurately you risk uneven loading on the bearing and potential premature failure of either the pilot or the transmission input shaft bearing. I got my plate from Rguyver and he said he went through about 8 designs before he got the alignment and the fit where he wanted them - though he needs to change his design again to accomidate a pitching stopper mount. Don't forget to add that to your design Will.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 he needs to change his design again to accomidate a pitching stopper mount. Don't forget to add that to your design Will.... GD That is not nescessary..though nice to have. I justy used an XT pitch stopper and the middle piece of another one out of the junk yard. Bolted one end up, measured and cut accordingly and then welded all three "stems" side by side to each other, and it mounted it to the tranny. I think I used the EJ mount on the tranny side it had a better offeset and clearend then the stock one. Again YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 I cut two bolts to length and welded them together as studs, I have a jig that holds the bolts the correct distance apart while you weld them. You thread the short side of the studs into the engine, index them and the plate holds them from turning. The trany slides onto the 4 studs and you put the nuts on top and bottom. They've worked fine for me and lasted for 3 motors and god knows how many trannys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPGsuperchargedBrumby Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 i drilled an tapped the holes (10mm if i remember)...they were close but do-able i also drilled out the alignment pin holes so i would know at least i had the plate mounted right on the gearbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomcrooner Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Man I didn't even realize that the engine side holes on the top were threaded. I'll just weld some studs together and mount it that way, its pretty fool proof as long as the alignment is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 I just made the top holes smaller and drilled and tapped them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Man I didn't even realize that the engine side holes on the top were threaded. I'll just weld some studs together and mount it that way, its pretty fool proof as long as the alignment is correct. Ok but how are you going to tighten the adapter plate to the bell housing and still mount the trans to the engine? Because if you put studs in the engine side then you need to run nuts on the adpater plate side which will then create a gap between the engine and trans :-\ Or are your just going to try and get the same thread pitch and diameter bolt to go through the enging and into the adapter plate...those ware some big bolts I say. And then you will not have any room at all for the the other bolts that need to go from adapterplate to engine. One thing I have learned from doing my conversion is keep it simple as possible. Everytime I tried to over think it it bit me in the but and some times cost me a lot of money. Just a thought/question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomcrooner Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 (edited) Ok but how are you going to tighten the adapter plate to the bell housing and still mount the trans to the engine? Because if you put studs in the engine side then you need to run nuts on the adpater plate side which will then create a gap between the engine and trans :-\ Just a thought/question I am going to weld two threaded rods together, not bolts, then thread the welded and offset double ended bolt into the engine, slide the plate over this then slide the trans up to that and put the nuts on the trans side. over lapping two threaded rods, laying them side by side, welding them together and making a racetrack oval hole in the adapter plate so that the welded piece will fit into it. :banana: Edited January 13, 2010 by phantomcrooner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 makes sense.. Show us some picks of when its done. and on the way back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Take a look at the 2nd page of this: http://offroadingsubarus.com/downloads/EA2EJ.pdf That's a picture of my adapter plate (machined out of a scrap piece of aluminum, thats what all the extra holes are from), with my offset welded studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomcrooner Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I knew I had seen that photo before, just couldn't remember where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 My plate is tapped for M10x1.25 both sets of holes. Very close, and steel so it holds well. Had to drill out the threads in the top holes of the EJ. bolt the plate to the engine with bolt in from engine side. Then bolt up tranny to adapter once installed. Drilling hte EJ holes is no big deal as there is plenty of room for nuts later if I had to install this enfgine back to an EJ trans. Gotta cut the bolts to excactly the right length though, that way they don't protrude through the plate and push the whole deal apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thurstenson Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Is it possible to do this to put an EA81 in to replace an EA71 (centered starter)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Is it possible to do this to put an EA81 in to replace an EA71 (centered starter)? No. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Gotta cut the bolts to excactly the right length though, that way they don't protrude through the plate and push the whole deal apart. I just bolted to the tranny side and then gound them down in place. The did it to the engine side. The labeled the bolts as to which ones go to which hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thurstenson Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Thanks Bill. I'll quit looking for that option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thurstenson Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 I have someone offering me an EA71 with the side starter. Can I just swap the bell housing from the center starter on to the engine with the side starter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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