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Splinter

Steve's AWESOME Brat

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On the offchance that anyone cares, it was the pickup coil. Just tested it with a multimeter, 680ohms from wire to wire and the yellow wire is grounded to the body.

 

Weird that it would just suddenly fail like that though...

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Jumpy tach usually is because the disty bushings are worn and the shaft is wobbling around.

 

How much can the shaft wobble around when the car isn't running?

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Pull the cap off, and remove the rotor.

 

Then grab the distributor shaft, and see if it has any side to side play.

 

Any play more than VERY slight should warrant a dizzy replacement.

 

RUdiz05.jpg

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Guys, the car doesn't run. At all. The tach moves with the engine SHUT OFF.

 

How can the shaft possibly be moving around causing the tach to bounce when the motor isn't turning?

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Guys, the car doesn't run. At all. The tach moves with the engine SHUT OFF.

 

How can the shaft possibly be moving around causing the tach to bounce when the motor isn't turning?

 

someething with the alternator or charge system failed. I had a alternator voltage regulator go bad, and a turn of the key would send the tach needle to like 3000 room without even kicking the starter on. Wipers would move around, even though the switch for them was off....

Edited by bheinen74

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someething with the alternator or charge system failed. I had a alternator voltage regulator go bad, and a turn of the key would send the tach needle to like 3000 room without even kicking the starter on. Wipers would move around, even though the switch for them was off....

 

It's a single wire alternator, reg doesn't even see the rest of the car. I tried unhooking it, didn't change anything. Unhooked the dizzy, no more tach bounching :)

 

It failed an ohm test, it's grounded to the casing, I'm fairly confident it's the dizzy pickup coil at this point

Edited by Splinter

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Just picked up a free 87 EA81 3 door (back end totally rusted out, been sitting for 5 years, not savable)

 

Time for a manual transmission swap, a new cowl and new front right fender! yay!

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Yea, the only reason it survived at all was it was mostly garage kept.

 

 

So I'm having some pretty weird electrical problems. The lowbeams on the car work normally, but when you put the high beams on each bulb only sees 6 volts instead of twelve so they're super dim (confirmed with a multimeter)

 

Also, on the right side only, there's some significant problems with the tail lights. With the lights on and the indicator on, the indicator and brake light alternate flashing, same if you put the reverse lights on. With the other lights off, it just flashes very fast and dim. The only ground I could seem to find was in the bed just behind one of the access panels. I cleaned it up and it didn't seem to make a difference. I've been searching for an answer for a few days so far and been pouring over the wiring diagrams but so far nothing.

 

Any ideas?

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There is a wiring connector behind that rearmost panel, check to see if there is any corrosion there. It is the last connection before you get to where the wiring harness splits to go across the back of the BRAT to feed the Driver's side lights.

 

Bad ground for the rear lighting can cause all sorts of wierd lighting issues.

 

 

Yea, the only reason it survived at all was it was mostly garage kept.

 

 

So I'm having some pretty weird electrical problems. The lowbeams on the car work normally, but when you put the high beams on each bulb only sees 6 volts instead of twelve so they're super dim (confirmed with a multimeter)

 

Also, on the right side only, there's some significant problems with the tail lights. With the lights on and the indicator on, the indicator and brake light alternate flashing, same if you put the reverse lights on. With the other lights off, it just flashes very fast and dim. The only ground I could seem to find was in the bed just behind one of the access panels. I cleaned it up and it didn't seem to make a difference. I've been searching for an answer for a few days so far and been pouring over the wiring diagrams but so far nothing.

 

Any ideas?

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Cleaning that ground helped some, thanks. Still some weirdness with the flasher speed but at least people can see I'm indicating now thanks.

 

On another front, here's the parts car I was given:

223629_10150282429109609_511244608_7199490_5435989_n.jpg

 

3 hours pass...

 

189334_10150282428449609_511244608_7199482_4449065_n.jpg

 

Monday we pull it out of there to remove the powertrain. Unfortunately I didn't notice the damage on the passenger side fender before, which is the same fender that's damaged on my brat. Damn. Oh well, I still got lots of good parts like a non-rusty cowl, shiny wiper arms and a 4MT swap!

 

The round headlight it only there because the front end was gone and the previous owner was using it as a bush vehicle and needed something for a headlight. The passenger side under the door almost collapsed when I sat on it due to rust. Yikes. This car was a gonner for sure.

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185351_10150284886459609_511244608_7225985_3266450_n.jpg

 

Managed to get myself a brand new clutch cable, so as soon as I put new seals in the trans and I'd like to sort out a new shifter bushing, I'll be ready to do the swap! Stoked.

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293374_10150294144139609_511244608_7305631_5244439_n.jpg

 

Monday I'll worry the fenders until I can turn the steering wheel in a full arc. The backs wheels SEEM fine, have to see how they respond to actually driving.

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Yea I think I'm going to put a little more juice into the torsion bar (It's still got lots left, and I have a spare if I break it) and give some abuse in a controlled environment to make sure it's all ok before I drive it on the street.

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