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JacksonRally

So. California EA82 Wheeler

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Finally got around to finishing my roof rack last december. I tabbed it and used .125 alum as the floor. I had to cut the aluminum into 3 pieces but love how it turned out. I also painted the roof rack and the entire roof including the a pillars semi gloss black. No more rusty racks....hehe.

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Thar she sits

 

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Waiting a sponge bath and 2.5 liters of fury!! And a little hole to fit the new heater/ac under the stock dash

 

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View from inside

 

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The 01 Impreza hvac unit. I had to tab both halves together then mount to car.

 

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Quick little mount for the new fuse block

 

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All the bits on the rack

 

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Amazing build! Glad you're still updating.

 

Have you considered tearing out the carpet and spraying it with bedliner or rubberizer?

 

And what're you going with for a clutch? Can you use the clutch for the newer motor, or are ya gonna hafta use a clutch designed for the d/r trans?

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I have tossed around the idea of doing some type of truck bedliner stuff in place of the carpet but it is not on the current to do list.

 

As far as clutch I have to use what the d/r will allow although I've heard a clutch from an xt-6 model would be better for the new motor.....I dont know much about that but if someone has some good intel, please do share.

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I have tossed around the idea of doing some type of truck bedliner stuff in place of the carpet but it is not on the current to do list.

 

As far as clutch I have to use what the d/r will allow although I've heard a clutch from an xt-6 model would be better for the new motor.....I dont know much about that but if someone has some good intel, please do share.

 

Yeah, xt6 clutch is the way to go, but from what I've researched, the replament models you get from oreilly or carquest or napa actually don't have very much clamping pressure for some reason. The one you want is the oem replacement from the dealer. However, they're really fjdjsjsl expensive. Like $350 for the full kit.

 

One glimmer of hope is that apparently Exedy now makes one, and I think of all places Amazon has the best deal at like $120.

 

I've got an EJ22 in my GLW, and when I'm in 4low and doing some serious offroading, my clutch does start slipping a lot, and after a bit it starts smoking and slipping badly. And that's just with a 140hp motor. You might ask Randy in Bozeman what he uses. Roostema something is his username.

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Here you can see the added clearance with out the lift blocks. Solid mounted rear suspension beam.

 

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Tied in rear diff bar to trailing arm pivot beam

 

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Plate work to hard corner of unibody

 

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Firewall all patched up. I just need to patch in the fresh air inlets in the cowl then some paint and then I can install the harness for good and the hvac.

 

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All the brackets I had to make for the hvac and fuse block

 

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Sweet, K!

 

So what's going on in the lift with this 'ol gl?

Do you have a writeup on what you finally ended up going with on the lift?

I just saw that solid rear bar in these last couple posts and it made me wonder what the final design was on this one..

 

:brow::brow:

 

Nice job with the old-school dude!!

Edited by superu

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Nice work. I just picked up a 1999 Impreza and have the dash off to pull the wiring harness. These pictures make so much more sense after seeing all the hvac stuff in the 99. I think I'll keep my 1987 hvac and just deal with the engine swap. Its a phase II ej22.

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I was finally able to save a little loot after Christmas to buy the last tid bits for the engine. I got valve cover set, plugs, wires, pcv valve and all new bearings for the timing belt assembly with new belt and tensioner.

 

I also got a chance to work on it again. I ran the engine bay harness and mounted the fuse block and the windsheild washer fluid bottle.

 

Harness

 

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Fuse block, tight fitting with battery!

 

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Harness ran along drv framerail

 

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Washer fluid botttle

 

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I did two things I told myself I wouldnt do. 1 was tear into the harness to remove abs stuff. Hours later I pulled out all of the abs crap from the engine bay harness. 2 was make my own motor plate. Oh well its almost done then I can finally drop the motor in. Still have a ton of work to do but its getting there.

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looks very nice. I have two questions:

 

1) Through my readings, I've found that the space between the engine bell housing and the transmission bell housing should be 0.5" to accomodate the clutch differences between the stepped EA82 stuff and the EJ stuff. How thick is yours? It looks like 3/4". Any reason for that, or am I all buggly eyed?

 

2) Do you plan to shim the engine mounts at slightly more angle than is found on the EA82 crossmember so they won't tear? There are tons of threads on this. I have a few tapered aluminium leaf-spring shims which should be perfect for this. They're a wedge from about 1/4" to 0" and 2.75"x4" and a hole in the middle. I'm sure you're familiar.

 

Also, what was your process to make the plate? I'm buying one, as I don't have great shop to do that sort of fabrication in, even though I'd do it if I had the right tools (sharpie & cardboard?) :)

 

I can't wait to hear how your engine runs. I've finished cutting down my '99 impreza harness and all I need is a fuel pump and adapter plate. If you need any of the a/c stuff from the 99, I still have all of it and can cut a good deal.

 

Best,

 

SK

Edited by kanurys

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Makin progress

 

Widdled out this bad boy saturday

 

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That's sweet K, Which gearbox is that? Is that an EA dual range 4x4? The front cases look strangly similar to an EJ AWD gearbox.

 

Nice work on the wheeler, it's gunna rock your work with the 2.5 in front of it!!! :Flame:

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looks very nice. I have two questions:

 

1) Through my readings, I've found that the space between the engine bell housing and the transmission bell housing should be 0.5" to accomodate the clutch differences between the stepped EA82 stuff and the EJ stuff. How thick is yours? It looks like 3/4". Any reason for that, or am I all buggly eyed?

 

2) Do you plan to shim the engine mounts at slightly more angle than is found on the EA82 crossmember so they won't tear? There are tons of threads on this. I have a few tapered aluminium leaf-spring shims which should be perfect for this. They're a wedge from about 1/4" to 0" and 2.75"x4" and a hole in the middle. I'm sure you're familiar.

 

Also, what was your process to make the plate? I'm buying one, as I don't have great shop to do that sort of fabrication in, even though I'd do it if I had the right tools (sharpie & cardboard?) :)

 

I can't wait to hear how your engine runs. I've finished cutting down my '99 impreza harness and all I need is a fuel pump and adapter plate. If you need any of the a/c stuff from the 99, I still have all of it and can cut a good deal.

 

Best,

 

SK

 

Thanks! Its definetly a labor of love.

 

(1)The plate I made is actually .5'', I did at one point do all the proper measuring and it should actually be some where around 14.5mm-15mm thick (dont remember the exact number) But from what I've read 99.9% of the folks doing this run a .5'' plate. Im pretty sure the difference can be made up in the clutch cable adjustment. I started out with a $70 piece of 6061 aluminum at 17''x14'', now its only worth like 3 bucks in scrap :rolleyes:. To make it I had a ej block and a d/r case lying around and started with the 2 bottom bolt/stud holes and made those super precise and then transferred all the ej holes from there (including dowels). Then with the 2 bottom holes dead on I slid the plate onto the d/r case and transferred those holes to the plate. Then cut the profile with a jig saw. Total 8 hrs of my own labor.

 

(2)As far as the motor mounts I guess I never caught onto why they would tear but what you said makes sense. I will just fix it like I did my trans mount. Im gonna set the motor then just weld a piece of strap from plate to plate on the motor mount itself. This will not allow the mount to move at all. I know this will dramatically increase the vibrations from the motor into the chassis but thats how I do it on race cars. If its too much for a daily driver then I will just mimic the way the mounts already have the hard stop just a bit closer so they dont allow the motor to jump when they stretch.

 

I think I have all of the a/c stuff I need but if I dont I will see if you do. I really cant wait for this to be done Ive been missing out on too many wheeling trips. The next real hurdle I have is to make all new a/c, heater ducting. Not gonna be fun. A little at a time I guess.

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