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If everything has been reconnected, cam/crank sensors are connected, etc., I would do a compression test next. That's pretty quick and then you know for sure whether the timing belt is truly lined up correctly at all the marks and if by chance there are any bent valves.

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If everything has been reconnected, cam/crank sensors are connected, etc., I would do a compression test next. That's pretty quick and then you know for sure whether the timing belt is truly lined up correctly at all the marks and if by chance there are any bent valves.

 

If I had something off when timing it, wouldn't I have felt something during my test? I didn't feel anything, had to overcome no resistance other than the cams and didn't have to push hard at all. In fact, I used my 18" T-bar and set it in the middle.

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If I had something off when timing it, wouldn't I have felt something during my test?

 

Not necessarily. You can be a couple teeth off and it won't result in the valves hitting the pistons or each other. EndWrench says one tooth off it will generally still start but run rough and lack power; two or more teeth off it says usually is a no start.

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Not necessarily. You can be a couple teeth off and it won't result in the valves hitting the pistons or each other. EndWrench says one tooth off it will generally still start but run rough and lack power; two or more teeth off it says usually is a no start.

 

I'm almost positive I've got it right, but it's easy enough for me to pull the covers and check it.

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I'm almost positive I've got it right, but it's easy enough for me to pull the covers and check it.

 

i don't mean to be rude or condescending, but please describe the crank and cam marks you used for the timing belt. being off a tooth or two isn't as bad as using the wrong marks.

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Right, removing the covers to look presumes you are looking at the right marks, etc. (which is one of the reasons I changed my status to 'not the arrows!!!' a couple months back haha). Whereas the compression test will not lie.

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No offense taken at all. Worth asking, in fact.

 

Notch on the back of the crank sprocket lining up with the notch in the block (pointing straight up), intake cams with single mark pointing up and lining up with the inner timing cover notches, exhaust cams with double notches lining up with the ones on the intake cams and the single mark lining up with the marks on the inner covers.

 

Not with the arrows.

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It would certainly be easy to forget to plug in a cam or crank angle sensor. Also pretty easy to forget to plug in the coil pack.

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If you have a code reader you could try connecting it and see if you read any codes. I'm trying to remember but I think items such as unplugged sensors, etc., would throw codes immediately, even if the engine won't start. I believe I was able to cause that to happen on my '96 Legacy with the crank position sensor (that is, reading the code even though the engine wouldn't start).

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I don't know where the crank angle sensor is, though I did look at the cam angle sensor above the driver side intake cam. It's definitely plugged in.

 

Something I didn't remember to mention is that there's a buzzing noise coming from the engine bay when the ignition is on, the engine isn't running and the throttle is opened some. I don't think I've ever heard that, but I don't think I've ever opened the throttle with the ignition on and the engine not running before. It seems to be coming from somewhere under the airbox or at least in that area.

 

Might not be relevant, but I figured I'd mention it.

 

 

I'm looking forward to trying some of this stuff out; I'm at work right now and won't have a chance to play with it for a while.

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Oh, oh. Other thing to mention: it doesn't sputter, fire or anything of the sort like it's even trying. It feels like it's completely out of gas.

 

well it needs 3 things to start, air, fuel, and spark; along with the necessary compression, intake and exhaust. the air is a no brainer. the spark can be tricky unless you like getting zapped. but fuel, you can shoot some starting fluid into the intake and see if it fires.

 

it's hard to do with the intake in place and it probably won't run / fire for very long if the intake is loose, but if it fires at all you will see some light and narrow it down to a fuel issue.

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It lives!

 

Turns out what I thought was the oil pressure sensor and knew was plugged in was the crank position sensor and it WASN'T plugged in.

 

I thought the thing on top of the oil pump was the pressure sensor and the light told me I had oil pressure. Go figure.

 

Anyhoo, plugged it in, it fired right up and ran great. Had a CEL, so I test drove it across town to the nearest Advance and pulled the code. Sure enough, it was for the crank position sensor. Cleared it, all good.

 

 

Anyway, I plan to post writeup as soon as I get around to writing it up.

 

Thanks for the help, guys!

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Hey SchwarzeEwigkt,

 

Good news on the success! I'm about to attempt myself :)

 

Question:

 

How did you fix that alternator tensioner? When I last tried to take mine off it was real tight and I knew it was going to break so I undid the other bolt instead (it was a ballache to put back on though - had to tension the alt up with the leverage of a big screwdriver until I could get the securing bolt back in).

 

I wonder what my fallback plan is if it does snap off - I'm going to PB Blast it for several days beforehand just in case :)

 

Steve

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I ended up taking the block with the broken bolt in it and torching it. I was able to get the bolt out then. After that, I ran a tap through the block to clean the threads up. A got a couple replacement tensioner bolts from the local dealership. I think they were $5. It's working fine, though I think I got a faulty belt. It keeps loosening up, so I think it's stretching. I've got to go out and mess with it yet.

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I ended up taking the block with the broken bolt in it and torching it. I was able to get the bolt out then. After that, I ran a tap through the block to clean the threads up. A got a couple replacement tensioner bolts from the local dealership. I think they were $5. It's working fine, though I think I got a faulty belt. It keeps loosening up, so I think it's stretching. I've got to go out and mess with it yet.

 

OK, cool, thanks for the update.

 

Was thinking of trying to use my torch on it with it on the car - a tad close qtrs though :eek:

 

Steve

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Actually, I'll prolly just take the securing bolt out again and hit the block with the repeat torch/PB blast on cooldown technique while it is off the car - I've had reasonable success on stubborn bolts with that approach in the past...

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