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Hello

 

I have a rather annoying exhause leak at the junction of the catalytic converter and (the other thing that looks like one!)...I gather there is a gasket there but as you can see, the bolts and the springy things are pretty rusted...if there is just a gasket in there, any tips on freeing those bolts?

 

cheers

 

scott

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Here's what I do.

 

I have a local exhaust place that bends pipe.

 

They will put a new section welded in there for 40.00.

 

Probably less than I'd have in 2 of those flange clamps and the tapered donut gasket and fancy spring setup. And was less time consuming and better in my opinion.

 

As GG has pointed out I get a good price because they do a lot of these for me.

 

And you can't take it apart there without cutting it in the future - but usually I've just done a complete reseal and engine swap or HG job so who cares for quite a while.

 

Fixing that is a real pain. And I was never happy with my fix.

 

So it may be worth a few calls.

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Here's what I do.

 

I have a local exhaust place that bends pipe.

 

They will put a new section welded in there for 40.00.

 

 

I second this. I can't remember how much Subaru charges for the bullring gasket, but between the loss of money, time, and skin, you are further ahead to take it to an exhaust shop and have the flange deleted. I hate exhaust work, and I'm a welder. Take it to the pros and have a coffee while you wait.

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Yeah mine surprisingly didn't leak until I replaced the clutch and removed that gasket and it..... crumbled... lol so I've gotta hit some pull and pay yards and find a new flange I have the seal and the new pipe just need a flange... also had to replace one of those springy bolts as well.... and my neighbor is gonna weld it onto the cat for a 12 pack. But quick question I can use the flanges from a Loyale I figure but any later/alternate models as well?

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Probably depends on where you live (rust issues, etc) but I've had fine luck with replacing the donut seal - takes a bit of chiseling to remove the old one and then proper application of a wire wheel to clean everything up. Clean up or replace the bolts/spring and liberal application of anti-seize. Here in the PNW this seems to work fine.

 

Of course, none of this will likely apply to the rust belt folks. If it's really rotted out then replacing the whole section would likely be better, faster and cheaper.

 

GD

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We see this almost every day at the shop.

 

What works for us is the old NAPA part # 31884 split-flange kit.

 

This hugs the rusted out flange behind the cat (which almost ALWAYS breaks) and with a new donut gasket... will cure the trouble almost 100% of the time.

 

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