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Trevor

88 GL D/R Wagon - Another EJ Swap

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These are the Hankooks, price is a determining factor. Good eye on the Nascar logo, they must have an offroad division now :).

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Couple questions.

 

Is the eBay water pump / timing kit worth getting?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-LEGACY-IMPREZA-OEM-GRADE-TIMING-WATER-PUMP-EJ22-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255ad9d71eQQitemZ160438015774QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

The other question is, has anyone managed fit a legacy radiator into their EA? I feel that my cooling is inadequate with the stock EA radiator which is why I am also looking at a water pump.

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Couple questions.

 

Is the eBay water pump / timing kit worth getting?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-LEGACY-IMPREZA-OEM-GRADE-TIMING-WATER-PUMP-EJ22-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255ad9d71eQQitemZ160438015774QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

The other question is, has anyone managed fit a legacy radiator into their EA? I feel that my cooling is inadequate with the stock EA radiator which is why I am also looking at a water pump.

 

I didn't use that vendor, but I did get an eBay kit like that, and everything's been fine. I have an EA81 radiator and a low-temp thermostat, and I haven't had any problems with heat with that combo. Before going nuts on fitting a different radiator, make sure everything else is working right.

 

Jacob

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I didn't use that vendor, but I did get an eBay kit like that, and everything's been fine. I have an EA81 radiator and a low-temp thermostat, and I haven't had any problems with heat with that combo. Before going nuts on fitting a different radiator, make sure everything else is working right.

 

Jacob

 

Do you have a source or part # on the lowtemp t-stat? I used an OEM one from the Dealer. I want to be able to crawl up-hill for extended periods at low speeds. Also does anyone know if a worn waterpump will provide less pressure at low RPM?

Edited by Trevor

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Do you have a source or part # on the lowtemp t-stat? I used an OEM one from the Dealer. I want to be able to crawl up-hill for extended periods at low speeds. Also does anyone know if a worn waterpump will provide less pressure at low RPM?

 

In Portland, yes. In Bozeman, I recommend you do a search here for "56mm thermostat" or "low temp" or something. Any car part shop will have them. 170 degrees was the sweet spot for me. If you can't find one, send me some Moose Drool, and I'll get you one:)

 

Jacob

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Low temp t-stat isn't a good idea. If you have an inadequate radiator or water pump, a low temp t-stat won't fix the problem. What a low temp T-stat will do however is get you crappy mpg and shorter engine life.

 

If the engine oil can't get hot enough to boil off all the moisture from condensation in it, it will form acids and slowly eat the bearings. Colder engine also means the parts aren't up to operating temp, and many parts in an engine are expand to fit, ie they don't fit right until they're hot. If the engine never gets up to temp, the computer won't go closed loop and adjust fuel based on the O2 sensor reading. So, you will be running on the default cold startup map all the time. Pretty much like leaving the choke partway on all the time. That will reduce MPG and increase cylinder wall wear and oil dilution.

 

Put the right T-stat in, and put big enough fans on the radiator to circulate air through.

 

My EJ22 on the stock single core EA82 radiator with one Saab 9000 pusher fan running backwards as a puller fan would never overheat under normal operation. I could get it cooking if I was doing hard extended deep snow plowing, like 1/2 hour or more of hard uphill with the engine under full load at 4-6k rpms. I had 1 undersized fan, running the oposite direction of what it's blades were designed for, on a 10+ year old single core radiator. It doesn't get much worse than that.

 

Put a couple decent fans on and all will be well.

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Okay, I will stick with the OE t-stat and just add another fan to the radiator and see where that gets me. As for a worn water pump, do they loose performance or just start leaking?

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Low temp t-stat isn't a good idea. If you have an inadequate radiator or water pump, a low temp t-stat won't fix the problem. What a low temp T-stat will do however is get you crappy mpg and shorter engine life.

 

If the engine oil can't get hot enough to boil off all the moisture from condensation in it, it will form acids and slowly eat the bearings. Colder engine also means the parts aren't up to operating temp, and many parts in an engine are expand to fit, ie they don't fit right until they're hot. If the engine never gets up to temp, the computer won't go closed loop and adjust fuel based on the O2 sensor reading. So, you will be running on the default cold startup map all the time. Pretty much like leaving the choke partway on all the time. That will reduce MPG and increase cylinder wall wear and oil dilution.

 

Put the right T-stat in, and put big enough fans on the radiator to circulate air through.

 

My EJ22 on the stock single core EA82 radiator with one Saab 9000 pusher fan running backwards as a puller fan would never overheat under normal operation. I could get it cooking if I was doing hard extended deep snow plowing, like 1/2 hour or more of hard uphill with the engine under full load at 4-6k rpms. I had 1 undersized fan, running the oposite direction of what it's blades were designed for, on a 10+ year old single core radiator. It doesn't get much worse than that.

 

Put a couple decent fans on and all will be well.

 

I don't disagree. I put in a lower temp t-stat because my car is for rallyx only, and it was overheating halfway through runs. It seemed like it wasn't opening early enough. It works for me, and that's what I said earlier. If the same thing applies to quick hill crawling in the wheeling world, then I think it's a fine solution.

 

I'll still take the Moose Drool, though:)

 

Jacob

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Overheating, especially in these swaps can be common if you really flog your car and is a sign that the radiator isn't radiating enough heat fast enough to keep up with the engine. By putting in a lower temp, 10 degrees? you just delay the inevitable.

 

Look at the stock radiator on a Legacy and you'll see that the entire thing is covered with 2 large fans. If the same amount of CFM is not used on your swap you will surely overheat.

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I'll still take the Moose Drool, though:)

Jacob

 

I'll keep that in mind :)

 

I have a 12" fan on the drivers side (cold side) of the radiator now, and have a 10" that I just got to install as well. Both will pull. Guess I'll see what that does for it. Not sure how old the EA radiator is so maybe I will look for a stock replacement instead of trying to get the EJ one in there.

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Overheating, especially in these swaps can be common if you really flog your car and is a sign that the radiator isn't radiating enough heat fast enough to keep up with the engine. By putting in a lower temp, 10 degrees? you just delay the inevitable.

 

Look at the stock radiator on a Legacy and you'll see that the entire thing is covered with 2 large fans. If the same amount of CFM is not used on your swap you will surely overheat.

 

I mostly agree with you, too, but even if you mounted 4 fans, it wouldn't help if the t-stat doesn't open in time. The cooler t-stat seems to work with my setup. I'd switch to a normal t-stat if it shot open and closed, but that's not how they work.

 

Jacob

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I'll keep that in mind :)

 

I have a 12" fan on the drivers side (cold side) of the radiator now, and have a 10" that I just got to install as well. Both will pull. Guess I'll see what that does for it. Not sure how old the EA radiator is so maybe I will look for a stock replacement instead of trying to get the EJ one in there.

 

I had EJ sized inlets brazed on my EA radiator to keep the factory fit. I also put 2 fans on it, one on a switch and one for the ECU. So far no overheating issues to speak of and I have put alot of long hard mile on the swap. It actually keeps really cool.

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I had EJ sized inlets brazed on my EA radiator to keep the factory fit. I also put 2 fans on it, one on a switch and one for the ECU. So far no overheating issues to speak of and I have put alot of long hard mile on the swap. It actually keeps really cool.

 

I think thats what I am going to have to do. My hoses will have to be changed with the lift anyways.

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So my lift will be here tomorrow. This might be a good time to swap out my tired 260k D/R 5spd. Someone is trying to sell me a blown up RX with the AWD and difflock. Opinions? If so, what should I pay for it?

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Update:

Just bought a set of 14" Mazda B2200 wheels with some 25" cooper tires and went ahead and bought the RX parts car for the trans, diff and brakes. There goes my paycheck :-\

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Looks great! Love the wheels...looking somewhat stock. What did those come from?

 

Wheels are from a Mazda B2200 with 195-75/14s. I did have to remove material from the hubs to get them on because the center hole was too small. Still climbs great in low range. Took it camping lastnight. Could not have been happier with it.

 

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