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My '95 Legacy: Trashwagon10


TheLoyale
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Jon,

 

Just thought about this, your Dodge is gonna get some bad milage with the plow on it! Its like 20 miles round trip from your place to mine and my place to yours. (Does that make sense?) lol

 

Have you been out to Al's at all in the past week/end? I hope Norm is a man of his word and that '96 is still there, I am hoping to snag it for no more then $325 ...

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I see that someone cut the axles off instead of pulling them off the proper way... I bought one of those. $150 for a 5speed with driveshaft and rear end..

 

Not only did they cut the axles off, they got a punch stuck inside of the roll pin and broke the punch off. On both sides.

It took me an hour with an angle grinder and my BFH + subaru axle pin tool to get the stuck pins out.

 

Then the axles were stuck to the stub shafts.... so more BFH fun....

 

Just don't give the diff bearings too much love...

 

Hope those axles come off nicely for you.

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Yeah, a Junkyard isn't going to waste time removing the axles when they have a Torch. Hell, they even cut the exhaust and trans crossmember off (So I have to replace the Tranny mounts with my original ones) they also cut the shifter cable and burn the o2 sensor wiring (Which I can all swap from mine) no biggie.

 

The axles came out easy, someone replace the axle once on that car (Aftermarket DOJ and roll pin) and I think someone was messing with the diff stub bearings/seal or something, as the retainer clip was loose. So I just checked the it out and tightened it up.

 

My end play is good, and there is no other play in the stubs, so I think we're in good shape so far. :headbang:

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Yeah, a Junkyard isn't going to waste time removing the axles when they have a Torch. Hell, they even cut the exhaust and trans crossmember off (So I have to replace the Tranny mounts with my original ones) they also cut the shifter cable and burn the o2 sensor wiring (Which I can all swap from mine) no biggie.

 

The axles came out easy, someone replace the axle once on that car (Aftermarket DOJ and roll pin) and I think someone was messing with the diff stub bearings/seal or something, as the retainer clip was loose. So I just checked the it out and tightened it up.

 

My end play is good, and there is no other play in the stubs, so I think we're in good shape so far. :headbang:

 

Wait a min, the weird gear-looking ring on the transmission that goes around the stub was loose?!

 

There's supposed to be a lock nut and tab to keep those from turning. They set the diff backlash. If they've been messed with, the backlash is wrong and the diff won't last long.

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Wait a min, the weird gear-looking ring on the transmission that goes around the stub was loose?!

 

There's supposed to be a lock nut and tab to keep those from turning. They set the diff backlash. If they've been messed with, the backlash is wrong and the diff won't last long.

 

The Gear-looking ring thing was tight, but the little retainer (Locknut thing) was loose. So it makes me wonder. But it feels ok, smooth and easy, and has the same amount of lash on each shaft. Guess we'll see.

 

(Hence the reason of buying an FJ60) the gear box can be someone elses problem ;)

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What, no update Tom? I guess I'll spoil it for you, Safariwagon II lives on!

 

For the moment, The transmission shifts fine, and enter TC lockup. But in Reverse, I have some serious vibration (This is not a trans mount issue) I also have a tapping in drive while stopped off and on.

 

Also while cornering it feels like something is grabbing the outer most wheel and slowing it down, wonder if the Diff just needs to be worked in?

 

This might have been a waste of $400 and our labor.

 

I am going to adjust the shifter cable today, and look at this thing more. My tranny pan also leaks, after I resealed it (So I am going to use my Original one) as the flange on this one was bent.

Edited by TheLoyale
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maybe that diff ring had been screwed with. Good luck with the car.

 

I will drop a hint that the guy who bought my engine might be interested in the xt for a premium, and if this comes true, i would make an offer on your car that reflects the asking price. I need something that is appropriate to haul my child around if i have to do errands while the woman is at work. the rusty GL with a broken window is not wise. This is just an idea at this time.

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$1,100 takes this car, I'm already an extra $400 into this thing with the trans swap, car comes with everything, as is.

 

I am really done with this car, I am just to that point (You've been there)

 

The trans swap did not yield the results I had hoped for.

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$1,100 takes this car, I'm already an extra $400 into this thing with the trans swap, car comes with everything, as is.

 

I am really done with this car, I am just to that point (You've been there)

 

The trans swap did not yield the results I had hoped for.

 

:-\ Bummer, but I'd buy the tires and wheels. Or trade for you BFGoodrichs on steelies back or something inbetween.

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These are $900 Potenza G019s. A trade would not be worth it, and it is even more pointless since I would have no use for those BFGs.

 

:-\ Bummer, but I'd buy the tires and wheels. Or trade for you BFGoodrichs on steelies back or something inbetween.

 

Keep in mind, if I get this thing acting the way it should, no noises, shift lever lines up with correct gear etc. The price of this rig goes up to $2,000, and will be listed on CL as such.

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These are $900 Potenza G019s. A trade would not be worth it, and it is even more pointless since I would have no use for those BFGs.

 

His offer actually could help you out substantially, if you think about it.

 

If you have a car with $900 of nearly new tires, and you're going to sell the car as a whole for $1100, then you're basically selling the car portion (not counting the tires) for less than scrap price. When you consider that alloy wheels are $50/each at the scrap yard, and not terribly much less when sold private party, then the car itself is basically free for whoever buys the wheels and tires!

 

Here's the benefit: A swap+cash for some lesser wheels/tires would help you recover your investment in the tires, and then let you still sell the car as a rolling drivable car. YOU yourself don't need the BFGs - the future owner of your Legacy does. It might be an easy way to get more $$ overall, with a very low level of effort.

 

 

That is, of course, assuming you don't get it fixed first. ;)

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That is true, but I'm looking at it as, everything works together on this car, its stance + wheel/tire combo + paint scheme + Decals + Interior + Lights. It all works together, with every detail, if I throw on some black steelies with some 27" BFGs, it won't look that same and would probably make it less appealing to buyer(s)

 

Incase you haven't noticed, I am a very detail oriented person lol...

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