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Is this too much of a good idea?EA81 *PLOW HATCH!!* BEEFY rear end


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Plow Midget R & D

 

So,the key here is that I'll be using a hatchback for a plow vehicle.The thought it that it could use some counterweight in the rear with that plow rig up front and Subarus being not exactly balanced machines.(front end already more heavy than the rear by a few hundred pounds.

 

Thought for the rear bumper is to make it like a long(wide)metal basket bumper that can hold a container with sand and some shovels.I could mount trailer lights on the rear for more visiblity if needed.Basic frame would be based on the 2x4 iron box stock with steel mesh as the basket bottom and sides.Kind of like a longmetal flowerbox.

 

I figure it's stick out about 18" from the rear body panel.Hang down about 4-6 inches below where the normal bumper would hang to.It's replace the existing bumper and mount up with the same method,maybe some bracing from underside too through the trunk.

 

Thoughts?

 

Open to criticism if it helps in the end.

 

Naturally,this means it'll stop snowing for the year.....you know that,right?

 

:rolleyes:

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Call me crazy, but why not slap the plow on the rear end? It's gonna be harder to see, and steer, probably, but my dad's been plowing using a tractor with a plow mounted on the three point hitch (in the rear, for those of you non-tractor types) for years...

 

Keep in mind that all the tractors done up in this method are rear wheel drive... not to mention that they usually have pretty beefy tranny's, even reverse gear. Not sure how a 4wd Subie would handle plowing in reverse.

 

Oh... and if you decide to go through with this, and it stops snowing... mind moving to Troy?

 

;):banana:

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Make a mini-Brat out of it...cut off the hatch, put a sedan rear window in, and seal off the rear to make a pickup bed out of it. Spray in some bed liner and use that--that way you'll have to do about the same amount of welding, maybe a little more fab work where the rear window goes in--but you'll have the weight right where you need it, directly over the rear wheels instead of 2 feet behind them.

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Make a mini-Brat out of it...cut off the hatch, put a sedan rear window in, and seal off the rear to make a pickup bed out of it. Spray in some bed liner and use that--that way you'll have to do about the same amount of welding, maybe a little more fab work where the rear window goes in--but you'll have the weight right where you need it, directly over the rear wheels instead of 2 feet behind them.

 

Sure Andrew,but I don't have time for all this.Thanks anyways. ;)

 

Skip's idea seems like the way to go.Why didn't you reply to my email and spare me this post oh mighty man of green bottle beer?:-p ....but one thing I don't like is the centered mounting.I think the weight should be evenly distributed by using the bumper mounts.I can see taking a turn and all the weight making the basket crank over a little.Maybe I'm overly concerned with that....don't know untill I see how sturdy it is.What's that basket rated at?I'd also like higher sides.....and would like it closer to the body.But it's still probably the best idea yet.

 

Hi Konrad.Do you all plow that way in PoleLand?:)

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Moose of NS, I wanted to give you some impedes to

"Just do it"

The lift is a Reese small tube reciever hitch from a Ranger

It is hinged at the point where the front tow hitches mount.

The plows (one, you no doubt recognize) are both spring loaded.

The up/down winch is controled from the cockpit

plowbracket.JPG

plowfnt.JPG

 

This is my rear rack. It slides into the 2" reciever.

The castor makes reversing over things easier, and turns the rack into a wheelbarrow type convayence.

Two struts can be added under the bumper to prevent tipping, but have not found it ness.

rearrack.JPG

 

 

Hope this gives you some ideas

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Only idea right now is that I need to be in rural PA,or somewhere like that with no kids,with some equipment and a little money.

 

Actually I'm considering making the a true junkyard wars project

and scrounge for all or most of the material.I've got no extra coin right now.I do have metal cutting blades for circular and of course the Sawzall.Have a couple fair grinders.Can get welding done or experiment with the old GE I have.

 

My intentions for now are to at least get the plow hooked up and sorted out before the last snow.If I use it once this year I'll be amazed and satisfied.

 

Next year I want to be rockin 'n rollin at the first storm's dumping.

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just in case..... i thought i sent you a PM about the info *I found out* for ya. Granted it will probably be a few more weeks considering the guy is kindly offered to use his film camera take pictures and send them to me snailmail for free then i can scan them for ya as posting them in a album is faster then snail mailing to ya from here after the wait from his house in south-central Michigan :>)

 

 

 

Skipper I really like that "pair of old lawn tractor blades" makes me want to tinker and have then both sit on a swivle arm and allow for either side to rotate out for a few set pin holes of say...20 degrees arc each....

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At work we have some plows for sale. They are for a small compact tractor (front) and are roughly the width of an EA81 vehicle (I can measure next week). If I remember correctly they have a pin in them to swivel and I know for sure they have the springs on them when you hit something. They of course have the skid shoes on them too. I am not sure how much they are but I know they are in the mid $200 area. They are all steel and are of good quality. If anyone is interested let me know and I will get more specifics and measurements. Limited quanity... (4)

 

Matt

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Did someone say Hatch with a snowplow?

presto-bango

 

This set up uses a powersteering pump ,resovior, and valve to operate the plow lift.Angle is manual.

I live in a snowbelt and plow 3 driveways with it.My drive way is a mile long with hill.I have had good luck with little breakage, so much that I didn't even use my fullsize chevy plow this year

I did add a couple hundred pound of counter balance to rearend.

Here's a tip:

If you are looking for heavy to diff to take the punishment , a Nissan front diff bolt in a subaru using sub stub axle.I have one in the front right now after grenading minesubaru+plow.jpg?b***CMABDHUot6Gg

 

 

ever have one of those days?

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I will admit right now that I don't know much about plow equipment, but I'll tell you what I've seen:

 

In Carson City (NV), there's an early-70's era F-100 with a plow attachment that's got what appears to be a semi-clear (possibly) fiberglass blade. The top and bottom are supported by steel of course, and IIRC, there's a couple of vertical steel pieces supporting the fiberglass blade from the rear, following the curvature of the fiberglass blade. Not sure of tilt, but I think the up and down may be electric.

 

Carson and Reno are not a really heavy snowfall towns (not nearly as heavy as Tahoe, 2000 ft. higher), a big dump in Carson is around 5 or 6 inches, and not every day.

 

Closest I figure, that truck is owned by an apartment or small casino.

 

If interested, I can keep a sharper eye out for it, and get a closer look.

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I did add a couple hundred pound of counter balance to rearend.

 

Just what Iwas thinking,about a couple hundred elbows.Want to have a good tub of sand and shovels for starters,then add a tree stump or something if needed.

 

I couldn't see the picture.Anyone else?

 

Thanks for the Nissan info.I've got a few Subaru rear diffs handy at the moment.

 

Try to send that pic to me please.Thanks

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