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Swapping the 4.3Runner....IT RUNS!

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Picked up some tires today....

 

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going back for the other 2 tomorrow

 

 

on the truck:

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Almost brand-new 35x12.5r15 Cooper Discoverer STTs, and wheels, $650.

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The housing was there. But someone had pulled the hi-pinion elocker 3rd out of it, and in the process left the remains of the knuckles scattered all over the place.

 

 

Got the front tires on last night. Going to have to trim a bit, but it'll work.

 

As of this morning, the driveshafts are in. The front shaft that was on the truck had a couple of pretty large balancing weights on it. Well, I got the shaft almost all the way in, and realized they were going to hit the tranny pan.

 

Luckily I saved the front shaft from the '86 I parted out a couple years ago. It had one little weight, which does clear. Just another issue since I'm not doing a 4" bracket lift, like they recommend.

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doing some POR15 work on the rear wheel well rust.

 

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apparently Marine Clean takes year-old iron ore mud off with ease....

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Cut out a chunk from an old Thinkpad laptop case to cover the hole where the old tcase shifter was. Then I drilled 5 holes in it.....

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Then I started the wiring...with 3 tabs per switch, there was a bit to do

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I decided to integrate a number of circuits into a custom add-on harness so that I can continue to add to this setup without having a rats-nest of wiring. So I found a matched pair of plugs from an old subaru harness so I can unplug the shifter trim for future maintenance. Then 5 relays will mount behind/under the radio.

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Then the wires go over towards the passenger side, where they will tap into a 6-position fuse box mounted to the body under the glovebox. And then the wires that go into the engine bay will tie into the Blazer engine harness for a nice, clean, OEM look.

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the 6 circuits are:

radiator fan (using a SPDT relay, using the "normal-on" side to reverse the polarity of the switch. So the light on the switch will be ON when the fan is OFF. I have also added a plug so I can add a temp switch in the upper radiator hose in the future for automatic control)

On-Board Air (plan on using the blazer A/C compressor, also wired for a pressure switch)

E-locker (using the Land-Cruiser control unit which is why there isn't a relay, and a covered toggle switch so it can't be accidentally switched)

and 3 sets of lights (probably 1 on the front bumper, 1 on the roof, and rock lights)

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Long time without a major update. Lots of tinkering, lots of frustration.

 

But, with winter coming, I needed an upgrade for the shelter over the truck. So...I got a nice roundtop shelter on sale at Menards. It's got a much beefier frame, thicker tarp, and the tarp is only 3 pieces instead of the 5 of the last one.

 

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Earlier this week, I started cutting the stock 4-link bracketry off the FJ axle:

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I was pretty sure that the distributor was not set right. So when I couldn't sleep last night, I started searching for good information on how to get it set. Suddenly I realized that every diagram I found online showing the firing order and spark plug wires was a mirror image of the one in my Chevy FSM, which I used when I installed the plug wires long ago.

 

So, this morning, I went out and pulled the plug wires off, and re-did them.

 

Turned the key, and the fuel pump didn't kick on. After some messing around with it, I realized that the fuel in the tank had definitely gone bad. Just a reminder of how long I've been working on this, I've already put fresh gas in the tank once since I started this swap......

 

 

 

So, while it was draining out, I got out the cutting tools, and went to town on the hood:

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Then I got a temporary fuel system setup so I could get some fresh gas to the motor:

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And......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just open headers, no radiator hoses, ignition coil power wire just wedged in the positive battery terminal, etc. etc.

 

But, there's a light at the end of the tunnel.

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little work with a sawzall and drill, and a piece of angle-steel, and I made a holder to use the toyota throttle cable:

 

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Gas tank hung, mounts need to be beefed up, but it's hanging from the truck. Test-fitted the shock too now that the tank is there.

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started installing this '82 supra LSD in the front diff:

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and in the housing. With a little modification, the 4runner stubs clipped right into the supra carrier. And while I had it apart, I knocked the studs out of the axle flanges, still have to grind out the splines so I can re-install the studs as bolts.

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And, soldered a tee fitting with a reducer so I can attach one of the heater hoses to the upper radiator hose.

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Long time without a major update. Lots of tinkering, lots of frustration.

 

But, with winter coming, I needed an upgrade for the shelter over the truck. So...I got a nice roundtop shelter on sale at Menards. It's got a much beefier frame, thicker tarp, and the tarp is only 3 pieces instead of the 5 of the last one.

 

IMG_0950.jpg

 

IMG_0951.jpg

 

Earlier this week, I started cutting the stock 4-link bracketry off the FJ axle:

IMG_0952.jpg

 

I was pretty sure that the distributor was not set right. So when I couldn't sleep last night, I started searching for good information on how to get it set. Suddenly I realized that every diagram I found online showing the firing order and spark plug wires was a mirror image of the one in my Chevy FSM, which I used when I installed the plug wires long ago.

 

So, this morning, I went out and pulled the plug wires off, and re-did them.

 

Turned the key, and the fuel pump didn't kick on. After some messing around with it, I realized that the fuel in the tank had definitely gone bad. Just a reminder of how long I've been working on this, I've already put fresh gas in the tank once since I started this swap......

 

 

 

So, while it was draining out, I got out the cutting tools, and went to town on the hood:

IMG_0953.jpg

 

IMG_0954.jpg

 

 

 

Then I got a temporary fuel system setup so I could get some fresh gas to the motor:

IMG_0945.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

And......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just open headers, no radiator hoses, ignition coil power wire just wedged in the positive battery terminal, etc. etc.

 

But, there's a light at the end of the tunnel.

 

 

Isn't that the bestest feeling EVAR!!!!Looks good man.I weent wheeling in our 93 Runner and wished it had more juice.It was a 3.slo though.It seems that I just acquired a whole heep of HP for the Huggy .I am pretty excited that i will be able to have some wheel spin with power behind it.:drunk:cheers

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So...Very little time spent on it over the winter. But I spent some good time on it last week.

 

One thing that did happen over the winter....I bought these:

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More backspacing, and an inch narrower. Should help keep the tires tucked under the bodywork, and keep the bead seated when aired down. Also, I love this style wheel....

 

I test-fitted them on my FJ80 axle, though. That's going to be interesting. The FJ80 came with 16" wheels, and the rear brakes reflect that. I might be able to grind down the caliper enough to get these to clear, I know that's been done with lower backspaced wheels....Or, I'll have to step up to 16s before I can use this axle.

 

 

Other progress. Upper radiator hose and intake done:

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Custom Power Steering hose made:

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And installed:

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Manual brake proportioning valve installed, and brakes bled:

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This is not enough room for a radiator fan:

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I put it in gear the other day, and loaded up the drivetrain. I'm glad my fan was held onto the brackets with zipties.....cause they broke. Going to have to find a slimmer fan, and/or modify mounts to push the radiator forward a bit

 

 

But I've run the engine for probably 20 minutes or so last weekend. Has all fluids, and none of them leak :banana:

 

Power steering works, brakes work, transmission works, temp gauge works.

 

Tach does not work, the little LED on the tach signal modulator flashes, so it has power, and is receiving a signal. So either I don't have the output hooked up correctly, or the signal isn't correct (like the EA82 digi dashes with an EJ engine issue...I might poke around to see if I can add a resistor to the dash to get it to work). This is not terribly high on my priority list...

 

Oil pressure gauge does not work. I'm using the stock toyota sender that matches the gauge, so calibration is correct, this must be a connectivity issue (either unplugged, or miswired). The chevy fuel pump is controlled from it's own oil pressure sending unit, so I'm not too worried about the gauge, as if I loose oil pressure, the engine will quit.

 

 

Monday, I'm going to start on exhaust. I'm just going to weld a reducer onto the flange for the headers, and just use slip fittings and muffler clamps for the Y-pipe. Space is tight, and if I need to take stuff apart, I'll need it to come apart in many places.

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Hood cowl arrived today

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Debating whether to cut it down a bit. It doesn't need to extend that far forward on the hood. I could cut it back, and then it would lay flat more easily.

 

But, it does look pretty good as-is. Might be able to sand down the flange a bit to match the shape of the hood.

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Well, the cowl as-is will hit the windshield once the hood is open, so it's got to be cut back. So it might as well be cut back quite a bit for a better fit...

 

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Also made progress on the exhaust. Welded a reducer onto the flange on the passenger side. And reusing the Y-pipe that was on the Blazer (cut shorter, of course). Since space is so tight, I'm just going to use slip fittings and muffler clamps to put it together. It might leak some, but it'll do, and remain serviceable.

 

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Fuel line cracked while mocking up tank mounts...

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Compression fitting, bulkhead fitting, right angle, and hose barb.....

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Since I had it apart, I mounted my new fuel pump down in the tank in place of the old one.

 

 

 

Old "Genuine Steel" rear bumper:

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New 4xInnovations one. Designed for a 2" Body Lift, with VERY beefy tow points which are solid mounted to the frame without relying on welds at all, and a class 2 rated 2" receiver hitch.

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And with some POR15

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Some rattlecan paint to come later, this combination will prevent rust, and be easy to effectively touch up.

 

 

 

Also did a test-fit. If I adjust my radiator fan mounts, and lower the fan to the bottom of the rad, it will give a lot more clearance from the water pump.

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Well I can tell by the collection of stuff under the truck how long it has been since it moved anywhere, but progress, even slow progress, is progress none-the-less. Helluva build man! :popcorn:

Also think I need one of those tents. How much did that set you back?

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Also think I need one of those tents. How much did that set you back?

 

It was on sale, $300 after tax, I think. It's amazing, though. We had a pretty light winter, but everything stayed completely dry inside.

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It moved under it's own power today.

 

Mounted the gas tank, hooked up the wiring (now using stock fuel pump wiring, as it's in the tank now), hooked up the extended fuel filler, and the high pressure fuel line. Then I poured a few gallons of gas in there. After priming the pump a few times, gas came out of the return. So, since I knew it was hooked up correctly, and pumping, I connected the return line.

 

Once it was running, I moved some crap around, and backed the truck out into the daylight. First time it's moved under it's own power in almost 3 years.

 

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Looks sweet, IMO. Loving that rear bumper in the daylight

 

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Set the cowl on it again to get a look at it with the rest of the truck

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Then after putting it away, I wired in the alternator and a couple other piddly things. Then I painted the cowl black, and set it on there again:

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I think I'm going to paint the center section of the hood black as well.

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woohoo! nice!

 

yes, that's a nice rear bumper. the original one reminds me of the SmittyBuilt one that was on the 4-runner I got my rear axle out of....

 

yes, after seeing the "tent" in person, it is really nice! I need to look into where to get one locally....

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Rear shocks are mounted:

IMG_20120609_151251.jpg

 

The lower mounts use a 1/2" bolt, but the bushing in the shock have a 5/8" hole. So I got a spacer to take up that slack, this also means I can tighten the bolt without squishing the rubber bushing. And then another spacer to keep the shock body off the bracket:

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The uppers use a 5/8" bolt, so when I first put it together, as soon as I tightened the bolt, it smashed the rubber bushing before I got it very tight. So I cut one of my standoff spacers in half, and put another nut in there. So I can tighten the nuts against the plate/each other, without squishing the shock bushing:

IMG_20120609_151159.jpg

 

Fuel filler and vent extensions:

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And cowl scoop mounted....not sure if I'm going to paint over the pop rivets or not...

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This arrived today, and I did the paperwork and money exchange to get collector plates. It will be ready for a test-drive very soon!

 

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Muffler on (needs another hanger...but close). So I took it for a little test-drive.

 

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Not running 100%. Not a lot of power, it bogs down more than a bit, but it does OK. It's got a few vacuum lines that aren't connected, and the 02 sensor isn't connected, so I'll get those issues fixed, and see where it's at then.

 

Also, I don't think I'm getting anywhere near full travel out of the throttle plate. Need to look into that.

 

 

But, getting closer still

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