monstaru Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 you do awesome work Bill...i was more praying to the gods of subaru modifications....they seem to let things dissapear alot:-p....cheers, thanks for the update!i can't wait...cheers, b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 this will fit either the T 5 or the TKO toe either the first or second gen narrow block 4G63 or the 4 through 9 EVO engines well i'm putting this on my list of things to buy :slobber: Hey Bill with all your playing around with the 4g63s have you ever found someone that built a rear sump for them. I got about a half dozen cars i think that would be cool as hell in, but most of them would need a rear sump. i'm sure also i could make something, but it's supporting the pick up tube so it's not just this long run to the back of the motor with no support. figured if anyone would know, you would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill hincher Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 I am a dry sump guy, I can build the rear sump with the long pick up but I am afraid of breaking the longer tube with engine vibration I would prbably build a spacer between the engine and the pan and use a outside pick up hose, but by then I could have the dry sump system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 I am a dry sump guy, I can build the rear sump with the long pick up but I am afraid of breaking the longer tube with engine vibration I would prbably build a spacer between the engine and the pan and use a outside pick up hose, but by then I could have the dry sump system see that was my thought with the rear sump, the pick up only being supported by air and crossed fingers. so as the poor racer once said "how cheap can you do a dry sump on a 4g63":) is it crazy external oil pumps and fancy bits. or can you make any of the stock stuff work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill hincher Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 it would be real easy to use the stock oil pump and put the pick up in the rear sump, by using a sandwich plate between your engine block and the oil pan, then you could place your pick up in place and attach your oil lines and then put the new oil pan cover in place butttttttt after all that , you could just support the new pick up tube so it didnt vibrate.......dont get me started! I gotta finish the bellhousing for the Sub first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 it would be real easy to use the stock oil pump and put the pick up in the rear sump, by using a sandwich plate between your engine block and the oil pan, then you could place your pick up in place and attach your oil lines and then put the new oil pan cover in place butttttttt after all that , you could just support the new pick up tube so it didnt vibrate.......dont get me started! I gotta finish the bellhousing for the Sub first! ha, well my shopping list is getting longer and longer with you. might as well add something else to the list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 A propeller shaft for the rear diff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 A propeller shaft for the rear diff! ************in what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill hincher Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 sounds like I better build a drive shaft machine now:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 ************in what? For the really big water crossings:banana: 36s on an ejed brat with lots of foam and some sheet metal to skim the bottom and top gear here we come ! A pto would be the next far fetched mod Id pipe dream about! That would make a killer lumber wagon! Winch out some timbers and mill away on your roomill. Put a backhoe on the rear? Whatever you need. You are already making a 4 wd roo tractor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampbrat Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 sky is the limit with your imagination. Top Gear rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 For the really big water crossings:banana: 36s on an ejed brat with lots of foam and some sheet metal to skim the bottom and top gear here we come ! A pto would be the next far fetched mod Id pipe dream about! That would make a killer lumber wagon! Winch out some timbers and mill away on your roomill. Put a backhoe on the rear? Whatever you need. You are already making a 4 wd roo tractor! OH,i see....your in fantasy land..............right:lol: meanwhile , back on planet earth the diligent earthlings toil away at there beloved cars.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 ha, well my shopping list is getting longer and longer with you. might as well add something else to the list Sorry monsartru I didn't mean to offend you or get in they way of your dilligence. Now, Mr Hincher, your work is beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) no offense taken.......it was a joke man.relax.if i wanted to crawl up your rump roast i would meet you in person and do it.:headbang:bill is doing some things i have dreamed about for years.i am mad excited about it, and have a hard time focusing on it when other ideas are introduced to the mix.......the reality will not set in until i have one sitting in my lap, getting gently caressed,like a smooth , supple............ cold piece of metal...........get your mind out of the gutter! like i said before, there have been a bunch of things started and not finished.so i am trying to put as much good energy towards this as possible...... cheers Edited January 15, 2011 by monstaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 no offense taken.......it was a joke man.relax.if i wanted to crawl up your rump roast i would meet you in person and do it.:headbang:bill is doing some things i have dreamed about for years.i am mad excited about it, and have a hard time focusing on it when other ideas are introduced to the mix.......the reality will not set in until i have one sitting in my lap, getting gently caressed,like a smooth , supple............ cold piece of metal...........get your mind out of the gutter!like i said before, there have been a bunch of things started and not finished.so i am trying to put as much good energy towards this as possible...... cheers well at least we know one exists. and it's farther then any other person has ever taken it so we all just sit and wait for new pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill hincher Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 (edited) This applies to all the Toyota transmissions, this just happens to be an R 154 but it will work on the W series just as easy that long rod with the finger at the end of it is the key to building the remote shifter that is low enough to fit under the trans tunnel and move the shifter back as far as I wanted you can see here how the finger fits in the three shiftshafts to move the R 154 through all the different gear selections at the other end of the shaft away from the finger end I built this recepter at an angle in an attempt to keep the shaft low, I built this as a starter project, I will take the numbers I found here and continue to lower it further I built a couple pillar blocks and found the correct numbers to build the shift ratio for the sideways motion in the shifter, it was about 72% I cut away the rear housing so I could see the shift motion in all gears, it shift as smooth as silk >;o) Edited January 30, 2011 by bill hincher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 AHHHHHHHH!!!!!! You keep torturing me! It's like looking at the victoria's secret catalog, ONLY BETTER!!!! I guess I'll just keep eating and waiting... Twitch PS: Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 once again bill, WOW much better looking then the way i figured how to make a remote shifter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 so, how much will the remote shifter cost , in conjunction with the bellhousing?cheers, b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill hincher Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 everytime I start the build, I never know where it will go, so I have no idea on cost of the shifter I am having trouble with my server , I been trying to upload some more pic's of the bellhousing but my server wont upload from my computer, sorry for the delay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill hincher Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill hincher Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 I cant edit the previous post but I am finishing this casting out and re using it as the final pattern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 hey Bill not to really question your awesomeness in your fab skills. but i had a slight consern about your shifter relocator. And I guess it comes down to how you're going to finish the shifter end of things. If you left it as is, and just mounted a shifter to the rod coming off the back when you would push forward or pull backwards as much as we would all love it to only move on a single axis, that rod will move up or down slightly when shifted, like lifting it up when going for 1, 3, 5, and down for 2, 4, R possible resulting in binding as it goes through the hole. just maybe something to think about. and maybe you left enough slop in there to grease the snot out of it, and in that case it may be just fine. just food for thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill hincher Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 well, the first thing I had to do was find the leverage point I wanted, the shifter has a given ratio both forward and back to the shifter lever to give the driver the right ' given' distance for the shifter to pass across the gate ( sideways rotation) Because the forward and backward motion of the shifter stays the same no mater where the hiegth of the remote shift shaft was placed, the rotation would increase or decrease by the hiegth of the pivot point relationship of the 2 intersecting linkages between the remote shift shaft and the exiting shift shaft Thats why this one detail was so important to laying the ground work for the remote shifter, I was trying to find how far I could position the pivot ball off to one side so I could place it low on top of the case and well as maintain the proper ratio ( which came out to about 71% ) that came with the original shifter Now there will be 2 linkage inputs attached to the newly mounted shaft, one arm will be attached that allows rotation and the end of the shaft will be attached to allow forward and rearward motion At the rotation arm lever, I can then readjust shifter swing distance by where I attach the linkage ( shorter or longer) increasing or decreasing the ratio between shifter input and work done oddly enough, its the obvious pull and push that is giving me the most time thinking out, because this all must be done with the fewest parts required, in a simple clean movement, ( more parts equals problems) so it has to be done with the fewest moves available. This has to bolt on the existing shifter hole on the trans, be no more then 1.25 inch high and give and exact 'feel' to the driver in both motion and distance of motion building this first step is like writting down everything I am thinking, I need to find what really works before I can press forward, this is my 4th set up that really worked, I didnt post the first 3 versions that didnt work >;o) but right now I am going to finish this bellhousing, the T 5 is finished, the W and R series Mits bellhousing is finished, the Motor mounts are finished, I found a 8 bolt Sub engine to mount up and I gotta finish the Sub so I can get back to work on the 6G72 v6 / powerglide unit and the T 56 wide block set up plus I got to do a write up on my findings with the Toyota sudden acceleration problems for a lawsuit against Toyota ( I tried like hell to get out of it ) but I do expert witness work for local attorny's on auto related class action suits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 i wanna do dirty things to that bellhousing.dirty , dirty things.like this.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.