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Son and I are in the process of new heads, Tbelts etc...

 

I don't have the special subie tool to lock the flex plate when we torque the crank pulley.

 

Can anyone tell me how they have done it without damaging anything.

 

Then engine is in the car.

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About half way down on the sides of the bell (motor side). There are threaded holes on either side of the motor. I can't remember the size of the bolt off hand. But if you find one that fits (Pretty sure its a 14mm head, like the one that holds the ac compressor down near the dipstick) Thread it in till it stops and that will lock the flexplate/torque converter. You can also stick a strong screwdriver in there against the teeth on the torque converter and have someone hold it in there.

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it's really easy. there's an access hole right under the throttle body, remove the black rubber plug if it's still there. insert a long socket extension or very stout screw driver into one of the cut outs in the flexplate to lock it in place.

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it's really easy. there's an access hole right under the throttle body, remove the black rubber plug if it's still there. insert a long socket extension or very stout screw driver into one of the cut outs in the flexplate to lock it in place.

 

Thanks,

Is there another hole on the back side of the bell housing that the extension goes into after passing through the flex plate, or does it jsut kinda bind the plate against the opening of the timing cover/

 

I don't want to damage the flex plate. That is a lot of torque on the crank pulley

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Good call Gary, that is a bit easier. :)

 

There is no other hole to go through, it does just bind between the flexplate and the hole. You're not going to hurt the flexplate though, don't worry about that.

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Big screwdriver in the access hole is good to lock the flex plate. An extra pair of hands to hold it while railing on the crank bolt is helpful.

 

The real fun is try to undo flex plate bolts during engine/trans removal - fussy angle to get a wrench on those.

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it'll be fine. given how far that is from center the stress on the flexplate might not be as much as you think. it is bolted right to a crank and pistons experiencing thousands of cycles per minute of combustion so you're good.

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Here is a photo of the cover that you remove and can put a screwdriver/prybar in to hold the flexplate to torque the crankshaft bolt

 

06.jpg

Edited by Mike104
removed wrong photo

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The real fun is try to undo flex plate bolts during engine/trans removal - fussy angle to get a wrench on those.

 

Remove the intake.

 

don't reinstall the intake until after the engine is back in the car.

 

If you're just pulling hte trans, unbolt the intake, but don't unhook the fuel line etc, just flop it up out of the way.

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"Here is one photo that shows a screw driver but might be a bit tight with the engine in the car:"

 

thats not a picture of a car that has a Flexplate.. yours is a flywheel. Bad choice for picture......

 

Also, I have never had to remove the intake to get to the flexplate bolts to torque converter. use a 1/4 inch drive snap on red handled ratchet and short 6pt mm socket. Have done this in junkyards, at home, and in friends garages. Never remove the intake unless you are taking off heads......its an extra step and extra cost if you do that.

Edited by bheinen74

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its so much easier to remove the engine and put it on a stand to do headgaskets. that way you can use airtools to crank the crank bolt down. how did you do the correct torque sequence when u need to turn it in degrees?

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There was not enough room to use an a torque angle meter, so we marked the outside of the socket in 90 degree increments.

 

So is that hole referred to in the flex plate and actual hole or where a bolt is removed from?

 

Haven't had a chance to work on it any more yet?

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