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bushbasher

samurai t-case instead of nissan?

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The island is flooded with sammys but datsun 720s are hard to find. Also, sammy cases have a 1.4 reduction in high range as well which would work out well with bigger tires. Then you'd have 1.56 low range tranny reduction, 1.4 high range t-case reduction, and 2.3:1 low range t-case reduction. The samurai t-cases are the same divorced up and down style I think, and they have drive flanges but I'm not sure that they match subaru like nissan does. Has anyone else pursued this?

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i wouldn't recomend it. for a couple reasons...

 

that's what i was looking at originally or a yota tcase. i can pick those up no problem. but the outputs are offset for the front which adds odd driveline angles. you might be able to be fine doing it. because the diff doesn't move. so you might be able to swing it.

 

but i will warn you. if you go with anymore of a reduction you are asking for more stub axles to be broken. the main reason they seem to break more often is the torque multiplication of the extra gearing throuwn in with larger tires. if you have problems getting up and going in town use 2 low. for better gearing , just don't drop the clutch. trust me i would know. boom!!

 

i'll be calling WARN one of these days to try to get them to make me chromemolly steel stubs. so they ain't gonna be breaking this easy. but then... i'll see what else will go breaking.

 

the times i've noticed that the actual stubs break. is not just under normal 4xing or driving conditions. ie dropping the clutch on dry pavement... really getting a run at a hill climb, i mean letting the clutch go in low range and flooring it up through second gear on loose rock... those are the only times i've broken them yet. but i'm still gonna try to get ahold of WARN industries.

 

i seem to be one of the few that will keep dumping money like this in my roo, for offroading though. i know a few others. but i always get the lecture. "you'll never get that money back out of it when you sell." in my opinion... if you are planning to do major mods or spend the money to do it right. make sure it's not something you are planning on selling. little roo i'm planning on always keeping!!

 

if you want you will be the first. and i guess you'll find wether it will hold well or not.

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You can rotate the Samauri transfer case to get the Drive shafts to line up but, the shift linkage will be kind of goofy. The drive shaft flanges/transmission input shaft wont bolt directly up to the Samauri T-case, but adapting the drive shaft flange from one to the other is pretty easy.

 

Matt

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Okay just wondering, I would still take a 720 over a sammy case just cause its been done before, I've got enough new territory with doing the ea82 anyways. I'll probably run 30" tires max without suspension lift just to keep the axles and stubs durable as possible. Im gonna keep trying for a 720.

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If / when I do a transfer case mod, I'm planning on getting ahold of some hummer differentials, and axles - shorten the axle, and weld the outer end of a subaru axle to it (just the hub interface part - not the CV joint). Mounting the diffs has to be fabbed in anyway, and the stock gear ratio of a hummer diff is 4.55:1, and you can get 4.88 gears if you want - also air lockers are redily availible. Nissan T-case, Hummer diffs and custom Hummer/Subaru axles.... should be wicked. No more broken diffs and the axles will be considerably more durable (they are faily durable on a Hummer, and with less wieght on a soob, they should be nearly indestructable). I'm sure the cost won't be cheap, but the lower gearing, and the durability should be outstanding.

 

GD

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don't turn the tcase, you'll lose all the ground clearance.

 

as for hummer running gear... there's a lot and i mean a lot involved in what you are thinking of doing. not to mention if you can get ahold of all that running gear. not likely from any normal pull a part. you could get military surplus hummers for about 6000 dollars or more. you'd also be looking at several grand for the shortening of the whole gear and modifying.

 

if you are willing to spend that kind of money. there's a place in cali, that will make you custom high travel shafts for about 800 to a 1000 bucks a piece. and also warn makes custom shafts. you could get the stubby's from them.

 

or if i was gonna spend a lot of cash again. it's getting yota axles and tcase. a lot more capable and cheaper. about 1000 dollars for all the running gear and axle width being shortened. cheaper parts and all kind of goodies. ie 5.89 ring and pinions, marlin dual tcase. up to 400+:1 crawl ratio...

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I am just curious what the difference woud be in ground clearance between turning the samauri case so the output shafts were closer to being straight down, and already having the nissian case's output down?

 

Matt

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yeah, We'll see how faithful I remain to independant suspension after I've broken a handful of axle stubs! Toyota Axles are cheap around here, or jeep d30/d35s, they should be strong enough on a lighter car, the max they can handle is 35s on a jeep which is at least 3000lbs

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Not as much work as you think actually - I will shorten the axles myself - not that hard, and I can do it so they won't break. Balancing is not an issue since axles are very close to the center of rotation, and thus the balance won't matter unless you are going VERY fast. I may get them balanced at a driveline shop anyway. The only change to the diff is to remove the inboard brake rotors - which I'll probably just plasma cut off so they aren't in my way. The rest is just fabbing a frame for the diff which already has to be done anyway even with Subaru diffs. I am quite aware of what's involved - remember, I'm a mechanic in the ARMY ;)

 

I'm not going to get pull-a-part stuff - I'll probably buy everything I need brand new. I'll check the military surplus channels that I know of but it will probably be ebay for the diffs and brand new axles....

 

GD

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If we were to have custom stubs made, one thing I would do is instead of making the massive hole through the center, extend the bolts so the heads are near the outside of the stub, with a smaller hole through the center just big enough for the shaft, then use setscrews or something of the type to hold the axles onto the stub. That way you could get alot more material in there. Get it cryo-treated too :D

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chromealloy axle stubs i'm sure would be plenty. my dad has them front and rear on his truck with over an 80:1 crawl ratio. and a 350 v8, and never has had a problem . but i'm sure you could have more material shoved in there too. that wouldn't hurt. except you make the bolt longer and possible to break, but it might not... hmm...

 

as for the reason why i said you'd lose ground clearance. is cause if you are using a zuk tcase it'd be more practical to get the extra height out of the tcase then deminish it. also it's offset enough it should hang down lower than the nissan. andn all the extra shift linkage. he's trying to keep it simple. one thing i'd reccomend is to stuff the case in the body.

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MUCH more difficult to fab in the hummer hubs. But yes - I know what you mean. The exra gear reduction would be sweet. Unfortunately, with that diff ratio, and the gear reduction hubs, the vehicle would become completely undriveable on the street if you managed to somehow get those in.... the front is the hard part - with the steering and all..... plus you would need the brakes too, since the outer hubs have no brakes. Gawd that really would be nasty.

 

GD

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ya but leave the disks on the diff, but I see what your saying would be nice thou all that ground clearance............getting way off topic now so I'll stop now. :D

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