Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
diamondjumper

front lift blocks

Recommended Posts

So Im doing a 5 inch lift, (4 inch body, 1 inch suspension) And Im going to start making the front strut blocks, as all of the other lift blocks we just cut out. So what materials do i need to make the front blocks, and what angle do they need to be?

Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use the styling search option at the top and you will find loads of info. Also the sticky at the top of the threads http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24980

Somewhere in all of that you will find the angles for your strut top lifts. But it all depends on your car because i think ea81's are a little different angle than the ea82's. So knowing what car you are trying to lift helps also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You would use 1"x1"x 3/8" (some use 1/2" but it doesn't need to be that thick) square steel tubing. Two of the blocks are cut at 15* with the holes centered, and the other block is square with the holes cut at 15*. All pieces are an inch wide

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well , really if you were gonna do it that way, it would need to be 4"suspension, 1" body....and it wouldna work.

just like 4 inch body and one inch suspension.all that does is push your engine, trans, and rear diff lower to the ground.

 

the suspension part of the lift is what puts you in a position to get bigger tires.which is how you will gain your ground clearance...

 

 

cheers, brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

not true.the Body lift on a subaru spaces the engine,tranny,suspension,etc that much much further away from the body so you can fit bigger tires,But won't actually increase your clearance with out the bigger tires.However the suspension lift,forces the the tires away from the body for an increase in ground clearance.

For a 5" lift with 1" suspension lift you will need to find some pipe that will fit over the rubber section of your strut top-hat(the rubber section sitting through the body).Use some thick wall pipe 1/4" min if you are going to offroad it.Then some 3/8" or 1/4" plate for for the mounting pads.As for the design itself: piece of pipe big enough to fit over rubber bits on top hat with the ends cut at about 7*,then weld on the mounting pads.To clarify the pipe is vertical with the ends angled in.That should get you in the ballpark,but you may want to leave enough material on the pads to make some adjustments to bolt holes if camber isn't quite perfect.

 

BTW to all those just screaming search: that actually makes it harder to find some thing because then people have to wade through tons of posts just saying to search for it instead of a couple explaining what it is...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

not true , really?

if you drop everything but the suspension 4 inches, and the suspension 1 inch, you have no room for tires.you have a belly dragging low COG car...i have dropped everything but the suspension before.

so, true.

and as far as searching,there is plenty up in the FAQ about this to warrant him actually knowing the difference to this already....

 

cheers, brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure what he means is that it's going to be 5" because he's lifting the body 4" and the suspension will be an additional inch over that making it 5". It's not hard to figure out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm pretty sure what he means is that it's going to be 5" because he's lifting the body 4" and the suspension will be an additional inch over that making it 5". It's not hard to figure out.

 

Well see...

My SJR lift isn't 5" just because the suspension is 1" over, it's a 4. All that means is that you'll have an additional inch of ground clearance, with 4" more for tires.

 

So for a lift like that you'll need 4" strut blocks, and 3" for all the cross members.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok to clarify:

I have already cut 4 inch crossmember blocks for all the body. Now I need to make the front strut blocks, as well as extend the rear struts was my plan. I planned on doing 5 inch blocks and extending it 5 inches in the rear. Wouldnt that give me 5 inches of TOTAL lift, with 1 inch more of an angle on my CV axles. that would lift the body 5 inches and drop the running gear 4. that is the plan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Exactly, that's a nice lift design. An inch up isn't that hard on the axles...but that's an extra inch of clearance you wont need on the tires. :grin:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well see...

My SJR lift isn't 5" just because the suspension is 1" over, it's a 4. All that means is that you'll have an additional inch of ground clearance, with 4" more for tires.

 

So for a lift like that you'll need 4" strut blocks, and 3" for all the cross members.

 

If its 4" strut blocks and 3" at the cross members that would be more like a 4" lift. since it's a total of 4". It's just all in how you think about it or word it. You could all it a 3"+1 or some crap. As you can see now what he was saying what exactly what I said he meant.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well then call me captain literal.mister i can ************ing figure out anything........:rolleyes:the point is that people that have no idea how this ************ works will look at that and think exactly what i said.

cheers, brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So's by "blocks" for the front strut tops, I assume you intend to use pipe. I'm curious as to whether blocks, say 3X5's, braced together would even fit? Just educating myself on Lifts 101 for future plans of my own design. :banana:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I think we are going to use blocks, but I was wondering the same thing, except I dont even think they need to be braced together, as long as you make sure they are all going in the same direction when you initially bolt them on so the angles are the same. Im trying to figure out the easiest way to do it. Pipe, or individual blocks?:confused:

While contemplating i will finish my bumper!:banana:

-Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LOL! INTERNET!!

Take it easy guys!

 

Well I think we are going to use blocks, but I was wondering the same thing, except I dont even think they need to be braced together, as long as you make sure they are all going in the same direction when you initially bolt them on so the angles are the same. Im trying to figure out the easiest way to do it. Pipe, or individual blocks?:confused:

While contemplating i will finish my bumper!:banana:

-Jeff

 

You could do it that way, but if you don't brace them, you gotta tighten those bolts pretty hard. That can cause problems in a few ways. If you super-tighten those bolts, they have give more in extreme cross-stressing due to being deformed more from the tightening. Also, if you're going through some tough ruts and your car gyrates suddenly from one direction to the other, you could push those offsets into a different angle. There's a good chance none of that will happen, but it's possible. Bracing them together allows for more of the energy to be transferred through the bracing struts instead of the bolts: Greater stability and peace of mind. I recommend bracing the blocks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×