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hackasubaru

Manual Tranny Axle Seals

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I'm replacing the Axel seals on my manual transmision EA82 engine. The cap that holds the seal unscrews and there is an O-Ring on it. I am wondering if there is any type of special adjustment or if i can just unscrew it replace the seal and O-ring and put it all back together. I'm not very good with transmissions... :(

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I'm not real familiar with the old gen, but if you were doing this on a new gen (and it is probably the same idea), you would want to mark that retainer over the o-ring and count the number of turns as you unscrew it. Then putting it back exactly the same number of turns to the exact same spot it was. If you don't do this it changes the backlash/engagement of the gears which could cause problems/abnormal wear over time.

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I'm not real familiar with the old gen, but if you were doing this on a new gen (and it is probably the same idea), you would want to mark that retainer over the o-ring and count the number of turns as you unscrew it. Then putting it back exactly the same number of turns to the exact same spot it was. If you don't do this it changes the backlash/engagement of the gears which could cause problems/abnormal wear over time.

 

Ya your right, i found some web sites saying the same thing.. but they were on newer models also. I'm hoping my 87 isn't the same way.. unfortunately i've already removed the right side with out knowing this :banghead: any idea of how i can get it back on getting the backlash/engagement correct? I have a friend that works at a tranny shop but i rather not have to take it in.. I don't wanna mess up the front diff.

Edited by hackasubaru

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right on man i'll poke around and see if i can find anything. I'll talk to my buddy maybe he's got an idea of how to adjust it. thanks for the info, it helped alot :grin:

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Screw it back in until it gets just snug. Then do the other side. Leave the Axles off the stubs.

 

Once you have done this, if you havent yet, drain all the gear oil.

 

reach you're finger in the drain hole, and use you're finger to rock the ring gear back and forth.

 

You should have between .10mm -.15mm backlash. Which feels like barely a little wiggle.

 

If there is a big clunk, move the drivers side cup in, and the passengers out Each by just one notch.

 

If there is no bakclash, then you need to do the opposite, move the drivers side out, and the passenger side in.

 

remember, you want just a tiny little bit of wiggle.

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Hey cool thanks man! Can't wait to get home and tear into it. I was looking at my chiltons and hanes an couldn't find anything... I'll let you know how it goes

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So I felt the left side to get an idea of the play in the axle. Then I replaced the seal on the left side(marked and counted the turns). Put it back on how it came off and it felt pretty much the same. Tightened the right side to where it looked like it was in about the same spot as the left(it actually only goes on one way and will screw all the way down until it stops). I got it nice and tight and then felt the play in the axle. I had to loosen it alittle bit but it felt really good. There was just alittle bit of play on each side. I replaced the output shaft seal cause i hadn't done that yet. The transmission is now back in the car :banana: Just have to put the engine back in and see how it feels. Thanks for the help!! :grin: I'll post after i get everything back together.

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Everything seems fine, i did a 300 mile road trip to the beach. Thanks for the help everyone. Although, I did find out how to adjust backlash finally. Thanks to GeneralDisorder :)

 

"set the backlash correctly with a dial indicator through the drain plug hole. You remove both the o-rings on the adjuster cups and then set the gear tooth backlash to .003" - .005" IIRC. Mark those locations and then install your o-rings and seals."

 

Thanks man!

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