dcmille290 Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 I found a leak on the inside of the LR tire this morning on the way to work, and little to no brake pedal. I suspect a blown wheel cylinder. I tried in vain to remove the castle nut, forget it. Not rusted, the threads are really clean. I just cannot budge it loose. Also, what is the torque for read wheels, GL wagon? I read somewhere it was possible to remove the hub without taking off the castle nut? If this is true can someone tell me how that is possible? I am stopping at a buddies shop this morning to see if he can break the nuts loose for me, then I'll limp it home and finish the cylinders and linings. Thanks, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backcountrycrui Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Ive had to use a real long extension from time to time. Like a breaker bar with a three foot pipe. I have even had to use air tools once, but that one was rusty as hell. Lots of penetrating oil too. Good luck Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 A good 1/2" impact usually will crack them loose. They are torqued to 150 Ft/Lbs and there is a spring washer and a taper-lock behind the nut so they can be tough to get loose. If all else fails, the best method is to get a 36mm "VW Axle Nut Tool". It's a primitive peice of cast steel and will break loose even the most difficult axle nuts. They are about $10 to $15 and are very handy to own (and the ONLY way to roll if you are a junk yard rat). With a largish hammer and one of these, no axle nut stands a chance. Even with no way to keep the wheel/hub from rotating. One of these: https://www.vwparts.net/BP7023.html GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcmille290 Posted August 17, 2010 Author Share Posted August 17, 2010 Thanks guys for the help. I stopped today at my buddies tire shop and his 1/2" impact wrench busted them loose in a heartbeat. I tightened them up to drive the 6 miles back home, now I am attempting to get the whole thing back together again. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcmille290 Posted August 18, 2010 Author Share Posted August 18, 2010 Wow, that had to be one of the worst rear drum brake rebuilds I have ever done. The linings were fairly easy to replace and re-install, as was the cylinder. The biggest issue was trying to get the hub back on over the new linings. I backed the self adjuster back as far as possible and they appeared to still be out way too far. The wheel cylinder was all the way in, so that wasn't an issue, so when it was almost dark, I left the adjuster off and managed to get the hub back on the axle. If anyone has any experience with putting the rear brakes together, please let me know. I am going to try and get the right side done this weekend. Thanks, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssquires74 Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 new to this site but this is the exact problem I'm having with my new 87 GL. Replaced the shoes just fine but I can't get the drum to fit over the new shoes no matter what I try. Any ideas? I know this is an older post so maybe it will bump to the top. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 The adjuster should shrink enough to allow the drum to fit. I never had a problem getting them on. Maybe you have a ridge / rust build up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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