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I think those of you with experience will know this right off.

 

I have a 99 Outback with a hydraulic clutch.

 

Will a trans with a cable operated clutch work in it?

 

Of course I'd have to use the fork from the hydraulic one.

 

As far as I can figure out, any 4.11 trans will work for me if the clutches will work right. Right?

 

Any other issues with this plan?

 

Anybody have a 4.11 EJ trans they want to get rid of cheap?

 

Thanks for your help, I'm getting frustrated trying to figure all this out. :banghead:

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You can use a cable-clutch tranny - just have to swap over the fork's and hardware, etc. You CANNOT use a turbo transmission unless you also swap over to the turbo clutch system. Just FYI in case you run across a fabulous deal on a Forester XT 4.44 tranny and are thinking about that.... :)

 

What you want (ideally) is a 97 to 99 OBW transmission. That will be the most direct swap with correct gear ratios and final drive of 4.11. Though a 97/98 will be a 4-bolt bell housing vs. the 8 bolt on the '99. Not a big deal though you just leave the unused 4 out.

 

Also the '99 has a different center diff system. More advanced I beleive. This does not affect the swap but it might affect how it drives (slightly).

 

The other way you could go is with a 90 to 94 Legacy transmission - they were also 4.11 final drive but the gear ratio's will be different due to the smaller wheels/tires. Additionally you would have to either fabricate a center exhaust hanger or swap the rear output housing off your old tranny in order to use the fancy 95+ exhaust hanger that bolts to the side of the tranny. Also on the 90 to 94 transmissions you would have to use some of the linkage parts from your old tranny as they changed ear spacing on the linkage bushings, etc. Notably the shift rod peice that is roll-pinned to the tranny shift rod.

 

I'm about to do the same swap on a '99 OBW I aquired with a blown 5 speed so if there's anything beyond what I just outlined let me know or I'll let you know - depending on who gets there first :rolleyes:

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder

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I really hate those eight bolts anyway. They irritate me every time I pull the engine.

 

I just had to buy the most oddball Outback around. :banghead: Should have gotten a 96.

 

Great info. Thanks a bunch. I'll just keep looking for a 97-99 OB trans. I don't really have time to figure anything else out or run into issues. Gotta have it fixed. Apparently I have to actually go to work to get paid and I only have 1 car.

Edited by daredevil1166

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Just out of curisoity, why would you want to go back to a cable?

 

I don't.... well actually... I kinda do. I hate the hydraulic system. But that's not what I'm going for here.

I was wanting to know if a trans from a car with a cable operated clutch would work in my 99 with a hydraulic clutch.

 

Someday I might get ambitious and try to rig a cable operated clutch and hill holder from a 96 up in mine.

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I think his intended question was *if* he could use a transmission from a cable clutch car by any amount of bolting/unbolting of parts - ie: "is there a fundamental difference that would *prevent* me from using a cable tranny". I doubt very much he intends to go back to a cable.

 

Although they do tend to have less issues in some cases with all the slave cylinder/hose problems on some years. At least with a cable you pretty much know where you stand - it's either a bad cable or a broken fork if you are having problems that aren't related to being worn out.

 

GD

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Actually it's just a matter of swapping over to the '96 pedal assembly and installing the cable and fork/hardware on the tranny end. Really simple.

 

You don't want the HH - they are dangerous off road because they won't let you roll backward without jiggery-pokery with the pedals to get the HH to release the brakes. If you *need* to roll backward for some reason it slows the reaction time.

 

GD

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jiggery-pokery

GD

 

HAHA.... I'm stealing that.

 

I figured out with my old 88 DL that if you messed with adjustments you could make the hill holder ONLY hold when you pushed it REALLY hard.

 

No, I don't remember exactly how I did that. But it was cool. I could decide when it held.

 

I was thinking I could figure out something like that with a newer one. I don't know. Never even seen a newer hill holder system. That's on my someday/maybe list.

 

First I've got to get rid of the horrible racket my trans is making.

 

And get new BFG TA KO's. F-ing nails in the road.

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It's probably the rear main shaft bearing - you might be able to rebuild the trans and it will be cheaper than a used one. Going rate for a used '97 OBW trans is about $400 with 100k on it. Newer is more - cheapest I've found for a '99 trans is $900. And that's USED. I would pull it before it totally grenades and replace the bearings.

 

In the case of the one I have it doesn't even move anymore. The tranny is TOAST. So I don't have that option. But it's not that hard to replace the bearings and I would be doing that if I could since the results would be superior to used and cheaper. This is a common problem with the 5MT's - in fact it's the one thing that makes the 4EAT's more reliable - which sucks. :-\

 

The HH's never really changed. The last one I played with was a '96 and it was the same as the HH on my EA81's. Slightly different cable on the tranny end but otherwise basically the same system.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder

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Hmmmm... I'm thinking I have other issues too.

 

I have a general noise when I'm driving. Like a bearing.

 

And I have a horrible noise in reverse. Sounds like I'm beating two pieces of metal together when I back up.

 

What kind of an issue does that point to?

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I do not know if it matters, but the hydraulic is a push and the cable is a pull. I always prefered Hyd to cable as cables seize, snap, and need adjustment. Not often but it does.

 

I'm just curious as I find this interesting.

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