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GOING POSTAL!!! The de-rice/resto saga begins

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The tow hooks were probably chopped off because the airbag recall. People would drive into curbs and hit the tow hooks. So the fix was chopping off the tow hooks...

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Alright. I know I've been gone for a while. Lots of bull has happened. I had to sell the pink 02 struts, but I got a set of 07 wrx shocks with sportline springs intaled and now the car sits almost completely level. The outback hood that I got didn't latch one day at the pump and flew up, breaking my windshield. Got them replaced, but had to go with a smooth hood. The scoop is still good on the outback hood, so I'm gonna see if I can chop it out and put it on the current one. The twin pot front brakes and the rear disk conversion was nice to. I got rid of the crappy scion wheels and slapped on a set of bug eye alloys. I also got my hands on a GT front bumper! The car looks friggin sweet now! Then, sadly, last thursday the water pump failed, overheated the engine, and blew the head gaskets sky high. I honestly am not surprised though. 300k+ on a motor that munches lucas about a quart every 150 miles was a hint. And that's just the car! It didn't help that my truck broke down and my computer took a giant crap either! Eh, such is life. Anyways, now I have a legitimate excuse to do a full teardown of the car and start from the ground up! If only I had some money to do this though...

BTW, if anyone is interested, there's a front clip on CL with some parts I need. Here's the link. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1082154#post1082154 Thing is, I can't afford a front clip but I can deliver almost anything. Maybe someone is interested?

Edited by Xanadu62

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BIG UPDATE!!! The auto trans destroyed the front diff. Barely crawled its way onto the trailer. I'll post a few videos of what has happened since I've been AFK. Since then, the car has been lifted up onto jack stands, had the suck (i.e. the auto trans) removed, 5mt from a 92 with 4.11 ratio and exide clutch, new starter, outback hood and rear bumper, gt front bumper and wing, clutch pedal assembly (took months to get because the guy we bought it from was a complete rump roast clown and ************ tard. He didn't even include everything we paid for, didn't refund us for it, didn't ship it correctly, and when it finally got here it looked like a retarded three year old with touretts did the packaging while having a seizure.), and a lot of patience. It's almost complete except for a couple things. I still need the rear shifter bushing (ordered from subaru and getting on tuesday *crosses fingers*), the wagon MT drive shaft (only one fits >:( ), and reassembling the interior. That's all mechanical though. This whole project has been an electrical nightmare! After I was finally able to get a starter for it, I hooked it up, turned the key, and nothing. Fuel pump would prime, but not go while cranking. Had to jump the positive to the starter to make it crank. I've heard so many different things about wiring that I don't know what to believe. I've heard that you don't have to cut anything and it'll fire right up, that you have to cut a wire on the ecu to identify the 5mt, that the wire you just cut has to be grounded (blew the fuse instantly), the neutral safety switch has to be connected (but with no diagrams or instructions how), and that these pins are easy to find (on the gen 1 harness which was the only one I could find with instructions). I figured out that two pins shorted on the trans harness will let it crank, and the "MT" identifier pin stops the fuel pump when disconnected. Here's the big problem. It starts up, revs to 3k comes down, sputters, smells like gas, and dies. I've replaced the TPS, MAF, coil, and IAT. No change whatsoever. I also cleaned the IAT, and double checked the intake. All good. I've heard that if the ECU thinks it's still a manual that it will freak out, but I just don't know. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated, or even just any ideas. Thanks, and hopefully I can drive this thing soon!

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Ok, did the proper ground on the "MT" identifier pin. Learned from a buddy that the old FSMs are wrong. It was actually pin 50 on the connector that needed to be grounded. Finally got it done, started it, and it still revs to 3k and dies. The only thing I haven't done is the O2 sensors. Do you think that might be why it runs so rich? I gotta get them anyways because of the previous CEL, so no big deal. Still though, if anyone has any ideas, let me know. The only dumb idea is the one that doesn't get a try. ...Except for Billy's ideas (robot chicken reference). Anyways, thanks guys, and hopefully I can be driving a 5 speed postal wagon soon!

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Pictures! :headbang:

 

I wanna own a RHD subaru someday...

 

In my recent 2 month search for the right Legacy wagon, I ran into 2 or 3 of them on the Seattle Craigslist so they aren't impossible to find.

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BIG UPDATE!!! The auto trans destroyed the front diff. Barely crawled its way onto the trailer. I'll post a few videos of what has happened since I've been AFK. Since then, the car has been lifted up onto jack stands, had the suck (i.e. the auto trans) removed, 5mt from a 92 with 4.11 ratio and exide clutch, new starter, outback hood and rear bumper, gt front bumper and wing, clutch pedal assembly (took months to get because the guy we bought it from was a complete rump roast clown and ************ tard. He didn't even include everything we paid for, didn't refund us for it, didn't ship it correctly, and when it finally got here it looked like a retarded three year old with touretts did the packaging while having a seizure.), and a lot of patience. It's almost complete except for a couple things. I still need the rear shifter bushing (ordered from subaru and getting on tuesday *crosses fingers*), the wagon MT drive shaft (only one fits >:( ), and reassembling the interior. That's all mechanical though. This whole project has been an electrical nightmare! After I was finally able to get a starter for it, I hooked it up, turned the key, and nothing. Fuel pump would prime, but not go while cranking. Had to jump the positive to the starter to make it crank. I've heard so many different things about wiring that I don't know what to believe. I've heard that you don't have to cut anything and it'll fire right up, that you have to cut a wire on the ecu to identify the 5mt, that the wire you just cut has to be grounded (blew the fuse instantly), the neutral safety switch has to be connected (but with no diagrams or instructions how), and that these pins are easy to find (on the gen 1 harness which was the only one I could find with instructions). I figured out that two pins shorted on the trans harness will let it crank, and the "MT" identifier pin stops the fuel pump when disconnected. Here's the big problem. It starts up, revs to 3k comes down, sputters, smells like gas, and dies. I've replaced the TPS, MAF, coil, and IAT. No change whatsoever. I also cleaned the IAT, and double checked the intake. All good. I've heard that if the ECU thinks it's still a manual that it will freak out, but I just don't know. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated, or even just any ideas. Thanks, and hopefully I can drive this thing soon!

 

You would probably be better off just getting the ECU and wiring harness from a vehicle that originally had a manual transmission.

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It runs! It runs!!!!!!! I did an injector swap, and the idle smoothed out. I've got it set to about 1k for asurance reasons. I found a set of 22t injectors from a motor my friend was rebuilding and slapped them in. Revs kinda high at first, but comes back down. All I have let is the driveshaft and I'm done!

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It runs! It runs!!!!!!! I did an injector swap, and the idle smoothed out. I've got it set to about 1k for asurance reasons. I found a set of 22t injectors from a motor my friend was rebuilding and slapped them in. Revs kinda high at first, but comes back down. All I have let is the driveshaft and I'm done!

 

 

Before you put the driveshaft back in, make sure that the gear ratio on the transmission matches the one on the rear diff. Bad things happen if you've got any sort of AWD binding and the ratios don't match. Bad things as in a rear diff that litterally smokes. And yes I know this from experience.

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Believe me. I know all about unmatched ratios burning up diffs. When I robbed the swap, I took everything. Trans, cross member, drive shaft, shifter assembly, flywheel, clutch, and especially the rear diff and cv axels. I'm gonna lift it up and put in the shifter bushing tonite and finish the interior. I might even wire in a few kill switches in random places while I'm at it. I can't wait to drive my wagon again!

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Warm idle should be 700. Do you have it set to stay at 1000 or will it not come down below that? It should run up to about 1500 on a cold start but should come down over the course of a few minutes.

 

I have a set of grey top injectors that are correct for that engine for sale if you need them. Thought the 22t injectors were a higher flow rate? You may end up running pig rich.

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