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no horn, no cruise, and ABS light on


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John, start by rechecking fuses, specifically #18 in the interior fuse box (10A, center one in bottom row). It's common to the ABS and cruise control modules.

 

The roll spring is common to the cruise and horn.

 

Theory: I wonder if a problem in the steering wheel might have taken out that fuse.

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John, start by rechecking fuses, specifically #18 in the interior fuse box (10A, center one in bottom row). It's common to the ABS and cruise control modules.

 

The roll spring is common to the cruise and horn.

 

Theory: I wonder if a problem in the steering wheel might have taken out that fuse.

 

will do , thanks

 

i have never pulled a steering wheel, i'm hoping i don't have to, but we'll see.

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will do , thanks

 

i have never pulled a steering wheel, i'm hoping i don't have to, but we'll see.

 

Insert a new fuse in the holder, even though the existing fuse does not look blown. I have had the spades on a fuse or in the holder get dirty, and cause a bad connection to the fuse. I used a sliver of emery board to clean the fuse holder insert portion, as well as to clean the spades on a fuse. This did fix my problem.

 

You don't even want to think about pulling the steering wheel, but If you have to, be sure to learn all there is know about how to disconnect the steering wheel air bag. You do not want the air bag to blow up, while working on the steering wheel.

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so i will be not the guy who swears "the fuses are good, i checked them" i will check them again. but to have a bad fuse after my method of checking fuses would require 2 bad fuses in a row, or a bad fuse seat.

 

i start with a spare fuse that looks good. when i pull a fuse i replace it with the spare. if nothing changes i move on to the next, pull it and install the one i pulled from the first . keep doing this until i have covered all of the fuses of that size. on to the next size. the fuses that kill something when pulled are obviously good. the ones that do nothing may need further checking. i guess a test light would come in handy.

 

but i'll check again. i have read too many posts where the cause is a bad fuse after checking all the fuses.

Edited by johnceggleston
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so i will be not the guy who swears "the fuses are good, i checked them" i will check them again. but to have a bad fuse after my method of checking fuses would require 2 bad fuses in a row, or a bad fuse seat.

 

i start with a spare fuse that looks good. when i pull a fuse i replace it with the spare. if nothing changes i move on to the next, pull it and install the one i pulled from the first . keep doing this until i have covered all of the fuses of that size. on to the next size. the fuses that kill something when pulled are obviously good. the ones that do nothing may need further checking. i guess a test light would come in handy.

 

but i'll check again. i have read too many posts where the cause is a bad fuse after checking all the fuses.

 

That's a labor intensive way of checking fuses. Just get a test light. They sell them at AutoZone real cheap.

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99.9% sure it's the roll-connector/ clockspring...same EXACT symptons on my '98 Forester - no Horn/Cruise/ABS light on.

 

Replaced the CS and back in business.

 

Pulling the steering wheel isn't that tough...getting the damn airbag connectors apart and fishing the harness wires out was a PITA though.

 

You'll have no problem w/it.

 

Couple of links for reference #1 and #2....may have to register (free) to see all the pics.

 

GL,

TD

Edited by wtdash
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99.9% sure it's the roll-connector/ clockspring...same EXACT symptons on my '98 Forester - no Horn/Cruise/ABS light on.

 

Replaced the CS and back in business.

 

Pulling the steering wheel isn't that tough...getting the damn airbag connectors apart and fishing the harness wires out was a PITA though.

 

You'll have no problem w/it.

 

Couple of links for reference #1 and #2....may have to register (free) to see all the pics.

 

GL,

TD

 

thanks td, just what i needed.

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