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eulogious

New First Gen Legacy Build Up (Lots of pics)

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Howdy all!

 

After totaling my 1990 Loyale Turbo Wagon, I picked up a nice 1990 Legacy LS Wagon w/AWD (4EAT), with the help of Turbone (thanks again man, as always!)! It's got 146,xxx on the clock. I am the 3rd owner. It was owned by the girl's grandparents before she got it, and then she got a newer "upgraded" Legacy, so she sold this one :D! I have the maintenance records for the last two years. At about 135,xxx they had a compression test done, did a brake job front and rear, and replaced the drivers side axle. At about 100,xxx, one of the Air Ride shocks went out on it, so instead of paying the $600+ or so for 1 new shock, she just replaced them all with "normal" shocks, so all the shocks are new as well and it shows. It's a very nice riding car, especially compared to my Loyale!

 

It's a little bit dirty, but it should clean up super nice with a good wash, wax, and a good going through of the interior. It does have a few cosmetic things I am going to fix on it, but I got SUPER lucky and scored a new hood and a new fender at the JY yesterday that were PERFECT :banana: :banana: And it only cost $50! So the drivers side fender is getting replaced with a mint used one, and the hood is also getting replaced with one that only has a few rock chips in it, but NO dents at all! I was super stoked about that. I do need to find a way to either repaint or replacing the bumper coverings on it, but they are not THAT bad. Replacing the fender and the hood will make a world of difference!

 

It also has it quirks on the inside as well, but nothing major. The first thing is the door sensor (the switch that turns the interior light on) on both front doors doesn't workd correctly, so the interior light is always on. Hasn't killed the battery yet ;) But I picked up 2 new switches at the JY yesterday, so that should fix that problem. Then front door locks don't work all that well either, BUT it's not that big of a deal now that I have figured out how to work them. So I will have to tear the doors apart and see whats up with them, but that should not be that big of a deal to fix. Oh, and the power antenna doesn't work, so that will be getting replaced as well.

 

So overall I think I got a great lego that should last me quite a while, provided I don't run this one into a barrier :rolleyes:

 

Instead of starting a bunch of different threads, I am just going to update this on with what I do, so I am going to be installing all my stereo gear, as well as fixing all the things that are wrong with it, and installing my paddle shifters :grin: So I will be updating this thread often!

 

Ok, so now on to the pics!

 

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Here you can see the hood damage, but I don't care since a great hood is going on it real soon!

 

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Here's the drivers side fender, someone got into a wreck here, so new fender it is!

 

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Edited by eulogious

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Continuing with the pics!

 

New%20Legacy24.jpg

 

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The engine bay is a little dirty, but it runs like a top!

 

New%20Legacy28.jpg

 

I almost forgot his name! Since my loyale was named "Mr. Roo", I only thought it was appropriate to name the newer one with less miles "Junior", so everyone meet Mr. Roo, Jr! You can call him "Junior" for short :grin:

 

That does it for now. I will be installing the hood hopefully this weekend, as well as the fender and the switches!

 

I will post up more when I get more done!

Edited by eulogious
Almost for his name!

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The interior light/door switch problem is a common issue with the 90/91's - it's actually not the switch - you need to readjust the door latch and striker on the jam. I've had to do this with every 90/91 I've owned including my SS - haven't had to replace a switch yet.

 

Looks good - that interior is amazing, and the mileage is fantastic for a '90. The small exterior issues are not bad considering. You'll be real happy with this one - especially with paddles, frankenmotor, and brake/suspension upgrades.

 

Dirty engine bay. I have a steam cleaner for that..... :)

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder

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The interior light/door switch problem is a common issue with the 90/91's - it's actually not the switch - you need to readjust the door latch and striker on the jam. I've had to do this with every 90/91 I've owned including my SS - haven't had to replace a switch yet.

 

Looks good - that interior is amazing, and the mileage is fantastic for a '90. The small exterior issues are not bad considering. You'll be real happy with this one - especially with paddles, frankenmotor, and brake/suspension upgrades.

 

Dirty engine bay. I have a steam cleaner for that..... :)

 

GD

 

Ahh, that would make total sense with the doors. Would that also be why my locks aren't working really well :lol: ? When I shut the door, they tend to lock themselves sometimes, and it would make sense that the doors not closing all the way would cause this. But I replaced the switch anyways, it was missing the boot, and it was all sticky from the electrical tape they put on the door to try to make it stick better :rolleyes: They work great now! But we will have to adjust all my doors when I come down, sounds like that will fix up all those "problems" :grin:

 

I am really liking Junior now. He's a much better ride and gots more power for sure! When I get the fender and new hood on, he will look even better! We will definitely be using that steam cleaner!

 

I need to go through and seriously deep clean the interior, but its in good shape considering it's age. I really like it. I can't wait to start installing my stereo gear and my paddle shifters, but that will wait until after his tune up. I want everything else to be good before I dive into tearing it all apart and modding the crap out of it :grin:

 

All in all, so far I am really happy with my purchase. It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but I think I got a good one for the price I got it for. But only time will tell!

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You should put you're paddle shfiter set-up in this car!

 

You built it off a Legacy TCU anyhow right? should be plug and play?

 

And for the doors......I just put a small screw into the door where it contacts the switch....head of the srew acts as a bumper and depresses the switch fully.

 

Door locking on there own when closing is a fault in the lock mechanism, you;ll need to replace those to fix it.

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Looks nice, miss my 91 legacy in white :)

Unfair you Americans get: AC, Cruise and ABS nearly as standard.

 

That one is an LSi model......not a standard. Premium sound, sunroof, power antenna, door step lights, upgaded interior.

 

There are LOTS of 1st gen legacies here without ABS or Cruise.

 

Curiously though......I've never seen an EJ ANYTHING here in the states without A/C.

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That one is an LSi model......not a standard. Premium sound, sunroof, power antenna, door step lights, upgaded interior.

 

There are LOTS of 1st gen legacies here without ABS or Cruise.

 

Curiously though......I've never seen an EJ ANYTHING here in the states without A/C.

 

True - my 89' EJ22 Legacy doesn't have cruise control, or a sunroof, or ABS, or A/C. Less things to get in the way I figure!!! :)

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You should put you're paddle shfiter set-up in this car!

 

You built it off a Legacy TCU anyhow right? should be plug and play?

 

Well, it will plug right in no problem, but having the AWD work is another story :lol: One of the things that had to change was the how the AWD was caluculated using the final drive of the car. For my 1990 Legacy TCU, the final drive is 4.11, but for my Loyale Turbo wagon it was 3.7. This was enough to make the awd fail because it thinks one of the sensors is off. This is what happened when I plugged an unmodified Legacy TCU up to my loyale when I was testing my harness splicing. So "I" will have to modify it back to the 4.11 ratio. Technically its one variable that needs to be changed and that variable is the number of tire rotation per min @60mph. So I will figure out what that will be with a final drive of 4.11 and 27" tires so I can get it right on the money. Figured I might as well do that since it's going to get 27" sometime soon :grin:

 

But yes, the Paddle Shifters will be going into this real soon, I just want to make it mechanically sound before I go and start modifiying the crap out of it zzz I might not add the shifters right away, but my DCCD knob will be getting installed right quick. I want full control of my AWD :brow:

 

I will also have to see what part number my TCU is, since it is a 1990 Legacy wagon, and that is the same TCU that I have modded. So I might have 3 TCU's around that I could mod, hmmm what to do with those guys...

 

And for the doors......I just put a small screw into the door where it contacts the switch....head of the srew acts as a bumper and depresses the switch fully.

 

Door locking on there own when closing is a fault in the lock mechanism, you;ll need to replace those to fix it.

 

For the switches I just went to the JY and figured out how to take them off a car in there, and then I just swapped them out. Once you figure out how they work and are installed, it's super easy to swap them out. Since I replace the switches, it's been working great, no issues :)

 

The doors on the other hand I do think as to do with them not closing properly. It's doing the same thing my Saturn did when I used a tree and my door as an e-brake while backing up :rolleyes: After that my door didn't shut right and the lock didn't work. It was doing the same thing my car is now, and if it is a problem with this year of the Legacy, then it would totally make sense that that is the problem. If readjusting the doors doesn't fix it, then off to the JY I go for new locks...

 

That one is an LSi model......not a standard. Premium sound, sunroof, power antenna, door step lights, upgaded interior.

 

There are LOTS of 1st gen legacies here without ABS or Cruise.

 

Curiously though......I've never seen an EJ ANYTHING here in the states without A/C.

 

Technically it's just the "LS", the "LSi" didn't come out till 1991, but really it was just a name change so this is all just semantics :grin: They changed the name from "LS" to "LSi" in 1991. Same options and what not, just a new name. Got love it when the manufactures are figuring out a new naming schemes :rolleyes:

 

Funny that AC seems standard in the states. That's kinda strange for 1990 anyways :lol:

 

True - my 89' EJ22 Legacy doesn't have cruise control, or a sunroof, or ABS, or A/C. Less things to get in the way I figure!!! :)

 

I love the fact I got all that stuff, and it all works! The nice thing about the legacy's is that they are a dime a dozen, so you can get JY parts for cheap that work great! So I don't mind having all the bells and whistles since parts are somewhat abundant in these parts.

 

Speaking of which... I replaced my power antenna with one out of a 1995 (gen 2 body). It didn't fit right in, but with a little bit of massaging, cutting, and wire splicing I was able to get it to work! Wasn't hard at all to do. And for $8 and the JY, you can't beat that price!

 

For reference if somebody wants to do this, the wire colors are as follows:

 

Gen 1      Gen 2Black      BlackRed        WhiteBlue       Green  

 

I just cut the older connector off the broken antenna, and then used it to splice into the new antenna. I effectively made an adapter harness for a Gen 1 to Gen 2 power antenna. I then had to cut a little but of the bracket holding the antenna up because the drain hose location moved for the Gen 2 antenna. No biggie. Other than that it just went right in!

 

It's great finally being able to listen to the radio again. I must say that the radio in this thing isn't all that bad. It's not good, but not that bad considering it's the stock 1990 stereo. I like the fact that there is an "Aux" input on it! And it works! So I can listen to my iphone will driving without anything special. I was impressed by that. Granted it's not staying in there for very long since all my stereo gear is going into it real soon, I still think it's cool that I can use my iphone on the stock stereo in my 1990 Legacy, it's just kinda neat :)

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It's great finally being able to listen to the radio again. I must say that the radio in this thing isn't all that bad. It's not good, but not that bad considering it's the stock 1990 stereo. I like the fact that there is an "Aux" input on it! And it works! So I can listen to my iphone will driving without anything special. I was impressed by that. Granted it's not staying in there for very long since all my stereo gear is going into it real soon, I still think it's cool that I can use my iphone on the stock stereo in my 1990 Legacy, it's just kinda neat :)

 

Yeah, they did that because of the new fangled CD craze back in the late 80's/early 90's. I think by 92 they eliminated it from the tapedeck and offered a CD player optional.

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I managed to fix my locks today :banana: The inner door handles were actually broken. One of the spring "retainer" clips for the spring that pulls the handle back broke, causing the lock to spring back to the lock position while operating the handle. Really annoying to have your car lock on you with it running :rolleyes: So after replacing the inner door handles on 3 of 4 doors, by door locks now work properly. Don't know why the broke, but at least I figured out why they weren't working.

 

I am not too happy with the parts I got from the JY though... So I am on the lookout for some new ones in better condition!

 

After a few days of driving it, I have come up with a list of stuff I need to do to the car to make it "perfect" :D

 

1. Timing Belt

2. Knock Sensor (I am getting a CEL for it )

3. Duty B Solenoid (The trans started throwing a code for it about a day ago I am just going to pull the one out of my old trans here and just replace the bad one with that one for now)

4. Passenger side axle

5. A/C Recharged

6. Replace all the fluids/new trans/air filter/flush rad?

7. Plugs and wires

8. All belt(s)

9. All hoses?

10. Steam clean the crap out of the engine

 

So ya, I got a CEL and the trans flashing on the same day about 2 days ago. Piss me right the ************ off I tell you what. Not about the codes, just the timing. :mad:

 

The Duty B Solenoid is the Torque Converter Lockup solenoid, and it's located in the valve assembly, on the bottom and is accessible by just dropping the pan. Since I want to replace the filter anyways, this should not be hard. In the next couple days I will actually test the solenoid with a DMM to make sure it is actually bad. If it is, I will drop the pan on my T-wagon and remove the solenoid and swap it out with the filter change.

 

From what I have read the knock sensor is a regular maintenance item anyways, so no biggie on that...

 

The passenger axle just has a boot that is torn. No noise out of it, but it should be rebooted or something at least.

 

The A/C blows "cool" but not cold. I will figure this out after everything else gets done with the car. After talking to GD about it, I will probably just try to convert it over to the r134 system found in tht '94's... But we shall see.

 

So this weekend I will be going down to GD's to get his help to get all this work done. It should be fun, and when I am done, I won't have to worry about my car for at least 60K if not longer :)

 

Slowly but surely I am fixing all the issues my car has! I can't wait until I can install my keyless entry/remote start and my stereo!

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Ok, so I managed to fix my door lock problem without having to replace anything :banana:

 

After some extensive searching here, I was only able to find one reference to the fix, and that was to a link that was dead. So the actual useful info can't be found, at least on USMB. Here's a link I found referring to the fix:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54202

 

I found several others that mentioned the fix, but again no details on how to do it. So I am going to copy and paste this info I found on legacycentral:

 

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=40575

 

wtdash I give you all the credit for finding this info and reposting it :)

 

Repair of Door Locks on a Subaru Legacy

 

 

by Gary Friesen

 

November 4, 1996

 

If your Legacy's door locks insist on locking themselves every time you

try to open the door, you probably have a bad "Lock

Remote." The Lock Remote consists of a plastic rocker Toggle that

locks/unlocks, and a chrome handle that releases or opens

the door. Here is an explanation of what is causing the problem and two

ways to fix it.

 

In the Lock Remote there is a spring that brings the opener handle back

to the resting position after you have pulled it to open

the door. It is a coil spring with one end on the door opener handle and

the other end is held on a small piece of plastic that

holds it in place to keep spring tension against the opener handle. When

the small piece of plastic that holds the end of the

spring breaks, that end of the spring then pushes against the inside of

the forward end of the Toggle. When the handle is pulled,

the spring exerts a force against the Toggle and causes it to lock. You

can open the door when this happens by pressing on the

unlock button (forward end of Toggle) as you pull the opener handle.

 

The popular cure is to buy a new Lock Remote and install it. I have come

up with a way to repair the existing Lock Remote

and my fix should last longer than a new Lock Remote, since a new one

can be expected to break also.

 

I will explain how to remove it from the door for those of you who will

be doing this yourself, as well as how to repair the Lock

Remote. I will refer to each side of the Lock Remote mechanism as it is

oriented when installed in the car. The front is the end

toward the front of the car and the outside is the side that faces the

outside of the car, etc.

 

I recommend reading this text at least twice before using it as guidance

as you do the work. Some parts are fragile and I believe

that understanding what is printed here may save you from damaging some

parts.

 

Removal of Door Panel and Lock Remote:

 

Open the door. Open the window about 3 inches. Remove the upper and

lower screws that secure the armrest to the door that

have phillips heads and are concealed. The upper one is behind a black

foam plug that resembles one of those foam earplugs

and can be plucked out with a pair of sharp nose pliers. The lower one

is behind a square 1 inch plastic access panel that can

be pried away with a screwdriver.

 

Remove the rectangular trim piece that is around the Remote. This is

done by inserting a thin flat object such as a butter knife or

a thin flat blade screwdriver between the trim and the Remote at the

top-center and the bottom-center while gently pulling

inward on the trim piece. The clips on the trim piece are grasping on

the upper and lower outside edges of the Remote. They

need to be flexed upward (upper) and downward (lower) away from the

Remote. Be Careful, they are fragile. Once the two

clips mentioned are free of the Remote, apply a slight rearward pressure

to unclip the rear fastener that is clipped around the

rear side of the Remote.

 

Lift the edge of the perimeter of the door liner at all edges except the

top edge. There are about 3-4 plastic fastener snaps, per

edge, that will come unsnapped as you pull the liner away about 2

inches. When you pull part of the liner away from the door,

your fingers can be inserted between the door and liner so that you can

feel where the next fastener to be released is. Try to lift

close to each fastener as the door panel material is rather fragile on

most cars. When the liner is detached at the front, back,

and bottom edges, pull it away about 4 inches and lift it upwards to

unhook it from the top edge. It hangs by a lip at the top.

Now disconnect the wiring harness from the panel by pushing on the

release clip on the male (door) side of the plug and pulling

it out of the female (panel) side.

 

Remove the two rod linkages that are connected to the Remote. There is a

plastic clip that unclips from the rod and swings

away, then the rod is lifted out of the hole in the Remote. Leave them

attached if unable to easily remove them. Now remove

the Remote from the door by removing the one screw at the forward end of

the Remote and then slide the Remote forward

while lifting it gently away from the door.

 

Repair of the Lock Remote:

 

Identify the end of the coil spring that is pushing on the inside of the

forward end of the Toggle. It is on the inside of the

mechanism and is pushing the forward end of the Toggle toward the inside

of the car, especially when the opener handle is

pulled. The spring is about the diameter of a staple and has an "L"

shape bend on the end of it. The short side of the "L" is

about 1/4 inch long.

 

Note that there is a small, approximate 1/8 inch, square hole in the

plastic housing located just outward from the "L" end of the

spring. You will need to insert a piece of 16, 18, or 20 gauge iron or

copper wire (about the size of a paper-clip) up through

this hole and snag the "L" on the spring with it. Then you need to draw

the "L" outward until it touches the plastic housing. The

iron wire should then be routed around the outside of the housing, one

end up and one end down.

 

Here is how it is done: Take a piece of wire about 6 inches long and

fold it in half. At the fold, spread it at the fold to make a

loop that is still small enough to fit through the square hole in the

plastic back of the lock remote assembly. Lift the opener

handle, insert a small screwdriver or other narrow shaft tool into the

mechanism from the bottom or top and use it to lift the "L"

wire away from the toggle. Push the loop of the folded wire into the

mechanism from the outside, inward. Snag the "L" with the

loop in the folded wire. Once you have captured the "L" in the loop,

remove the screwdriver shaft. Now, pull outward on the

folded wire until the "L" hits the plastic on the inside of the outside

of the mechanism, right at the square hole. While holding the

folded wire in place, bend one side of the folded wire up the back side

and fold it over the top of the mechanism. Fold the

other side of the folded wire down the back side and fold it under the

bottom of the mechanism.

 

Now the mechanism should work properly. When you put the Toggle in the

unlock position and pull inward on the release

handle, the Toggle should stay put and the release handle should return

to rest when you let it go. The next steps are to modify

the door to accept the extra wire, cut the wire to size, and reinstall

everything.

 

The door has two square holes at the back of the Remote. With a

screwdriver or pliers, lift the back edge of each square hole

about 1/16 of an inch. This should allow the Remote to be installed with

the new piece of wire fitting between the Remote and

the door metal. You can also push the door metal in a little where the

wire will lay by placing the end of a screwdriver or chisel

there and giving one or two mild but sudden blows with a small hammer.

Replace the linkage from the lock to the Remote and

check for proper operation.

 

Reassemble everything in the reverse manner that it was disassembled.

 

I just used a "big" paper clip and it works great! Took about 30min to do 3 doors, including tear down and reassemble of the doors. Pretty easy stuff!

 

I think this info should be added the the USRM, as this is VERY useful info for anyone owning a 90-94 Legacy as this problem seems to be common, but nobody talks about it. Would have saved me a trip to the JY at least.

 

Hope it helps someone else out!

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True - my 89' EJ22 Legacy doesn't have cruise control, or a sunroof, or ABS, or A/C. Less things to get in the way I figure!!! :)

 

We didn't even have Legacys or EJ22s in '89! Consider yourself lucky! ;)

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BTW, eulogious - you're an inspiration, man! I love the new car, I loved the old car, and I love your home-brewed (yet scientifically/mathematically sound) mods to the transmission. Keep up the good work, chap!

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BTW, eulogious - you're an inspiration, man! I love the new car, I loved the old car, and I love your home-brewed (yet scientifically/mathematically sound) mods to the transmission. Keep up the good work, chap!

 

Thanks man! I try to do what I can, and I share what I learn with other so that I might help someone in the future. It's the least I can do considering all the help I have received of this forum!

 

After this weekend, all the fun mods will begin! :brow: A 3" lift w/27's, my paddle shifters (although I don't know if I will install the actually shifters just yet, I might just install the DCCD knob to control the AWD for now, and then come up with a better paddle shifter setup this time around, we shall see), and then my stereo :D

 

The stereo is going to be the most interesting this time for me. I think I am going to put it all in the spare tire area (since my 27" spare won't fit there :rolleyes:), but we shall see. I am really chomping at the bit to install some good tunes... Anyone here have a custom stereo that I could steal ideas from? :lol:

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I'm building a fiberglass enclosure into the spare tire cavity in the back of my wagon (mine's a 2000 - I'm sure it's about the same size) to keep it super stealth (and protected from climbing/skiing/biking gear). Is that what you're thinking about doing? There's really a lot of cubic footage in there...

 

I'm trying to figure a way to throw an amp in each storage compartment on the sides, but keeping them cool might be pretty tough...

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I'm building a fiberglass enclosure into the spare tire cavity in the back of my wagon (mine's a 2000 - I'm sure it's about the same size) to keep it super stealth (and protected from climbing/skiing/biking gear). Is that what you're thinking about doing? There's really a lot of cubic footage in there...

 

I'm trying to figure a way to throw an amp in each storage compartment on the sides, but keeping them cool might be pretty tough...

 

Ya, that's what I am thinking about doing as well, now that I have had some time to look at the car. I don' think I will use fiberglass to do mine, just plain old mdf. I will probably just cut out a circle of mdf/plywood and put that down on the bottom, paint it, and then just mount my gear to that. I am just going for a "stealth" install with this one. But luckily the spare tire area is huge, so it should fit my 2 amps, BassCUBE, xover, and distro block just fine :)

 

1. Timing Belt

2. Knock Sensor (I am getting a CEL for it )

3. Duty B Solenoid (The trans started throwing a code for it about a day ago I am just going to pull the one out of my old trans here and just replace the bad one with that one for now)

4. Passenger side axle

5. A/C Recharged

6. Replace all the fluids/new trans/air filter/flush rad?

7. Plugs and wires

8. All belt(s)

9. All hoses?

10. Steam clean the crap out of the engine

 

So out of this list I have fixed everything but getting the A/C recharged and fixing the duty B. The AC I am not too worried about right now, so that will get fixed over the winter, but the duty b is irritating me a little. After dropping the pan and replacing the duty b with a known good one, it still flashes at me :mad: Now I have to run down the short and fix it. Oh, well, something else for me to do. I will get to this soon.

 

But I got everything else done! My motor is in great shape and should last a long time with very little problems! So that made me really happy :D Thanks GD!

 

BUT, I found out another big problem. Granted it's not really mechanical, but still annoying, my sunroof leaks :mad: :mad: I really don't like it when people lie to me. I asked if it leaked and I was told no. But it does. Started leaking on my way down to Portland with the heavy rains that we got over the weekend. After doing some research I found this thread over on legacycentral:

 

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=183

 

It goes through the process to remove the sunroof from the car, and then seal the rail that are in the sunroof pan, as the sealant that Subaru used doesn't hold up over time :mad: Here's a quick run down of what needs to happen and quoted from legacycentral:

 

I'm pretty handy around my legacy, so the directions Richard gave weren't the MOST detailed. I knew what he meant tho. I'll add in some of the steps.

 

A) disconnect and remove dome light and map lamps (you'll need to reconnect the map lamp unit later)

 

B) remove trim A, B, and C column trim pieces.

If you're hesitant about removing them, remove all the trim pieces that connect to them, it'll make it easier (and take on another hour to the job)

 

C) Remove headliner

 

D) reconnect map lamp unit. Use it to pop roof window up and remove (there are 4 nuts that hold the window in place).

 

E) "close" the roof now that the window is out.

 

F) remove sunroof assembly, pull out of car via one of the rear doors. put on shop bench to have enough room to work with, if you don't have space, get some HEAVY canvas and use your hood as a work bench.

 

G) remove the two small nuts that hold the front wind baffle in place (the shiny silvery thing)

 

H) remove the three nuts in the rear of the tray that hold the tray down.

 

the last step will enable you to pull up the rails that the window slides on.

 

I) scrape out all the old factory crap that's in there. vacuum. Clean off area with some laquer thinner or adhesive remover or some such thing. There whttp://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=183ill be gunk on the tray side and the rail side. make sure its ALL gone.

 

J) use some silicon sealant or window caulking and lay down some new gunk on the tray side. Use a heafty portion. you'll want to be able to see some of it squeeze out the sides when you lay the rails back on. lay some extra down in the front area and back area where excess H20 may seep in

 

K) reassemble.

 

total work time: took me seven (7) hours from start to finish including a break for a burger.

 

i'm sure i left something out, but this should be enough for an able-minded mechanic to be able to tackle the job!

 

good luck!!

 

-Jason

 

I am going to do this today when I get off work and after my massage. I managed to remove the headliner tonight at work, so that is all ready done, all I have to do is drop to sunroof, reseal it, and then re-install. Took about 45min to take the headliner down, not bad at all. The stuff I am going to use to reseal it, 3M Windo-Weld. This stuff seals fast, and I don't think I will have to worry about anymore leaking after using this stuff :lol: Granted it wasn't cheap, but I think it will work just fine :D I will be finishing up this today, and then I can finally start working on some of the cool things I want to do! I promised myself that I would not start installing anything cool or fun until the car was pretty much fixed up. So once the sunroof is not leaking, I think I will install my remote start and keyless entry :D I really miss my keyless entry...

 

Speaking of which, here is a diagram that I found that shows the wires to use for the keyless entry and remote start. This is courtesy of legacycentral again :)

 

1994%20Subaru%20Legacy%20Remote%20Start%20Keyless%20Entry%20Wires.jpg

 

I will post back once my sunroof is fixed!

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My sunroof looks to be fixed! I won't really know until we get some good heavy rain, but the hose couldn't make it leak when I tested it out after fixing it. Wasn't that bad at all to do. Just took my time when removing it all, and then took my time cleaning and prepping for the new sealant. Took me about 5hours total. Would have been faster if I would have remembered to put two bolts in, so I had to partially remove the head liner again to put the bolts the hold the motor assembly to the car back in :rolleyes: Oh well, live and learn. The 3M Window Weld is good stuff! It cured in like 20 min. By the time the sunroof was installed again, it was dry to the touch. Thanks GD for recommending that stuff! It should outlast the car :lol:

 

So now that that is all fixed up, I am going to work on installing my keyless entry and remote start. Then the stereo!

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I really wanna see that sub install! It'll mirror my idea (basically). I just need to find the time and $$$ to start in on it!

 

Well my actual sub install isn't going to be fancy or anything, it's staying in the box that it's in. :lol: I am not installing the sub into the spare tire area, just the two amps and my signal processors. So I guess it's a "pseudo" stealth install, or something like that :D

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Well my actual sub install isn't going to be fancy or anything, it's staying in the box that it's in. :lol: I am not installing the sub into the spare tire area, just the two amps and my signal processors. So I guess it's a "pseudo" stealth install, or something like that :D

 

Semi-stealth? ha ha

I like it. At least you'll keep stuff safe®, even if not completely hidden...

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Semi-stealth? ha ha

I like it. At least you'll keep stuff safe®, even if not completely hidden...

 

Ya, I just wanted my amps out of the way of stuff that might need to go in the back. The sub box isn't big and annoying or anything, so it won't take up that much room. Since I have a cargo cover, I am not worried about someone stealing my stuff, it's not out in the open or anything and it's covered up.

 

Now if I had more experience, or any experience, with fiber glass, I would probably look at putting it all in the spare tire well, but I don't, so "simple" it is!

 

I am getting my lift kit this weekend for sure! Then I will be one step closer to lifting my Leggy! Now I just need to find some outback struts for cheap, and then I should have all the major parts needed to lift it, then I just have to find a garage, a friend to help install it, and time :rolleyes:

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It's been a while since I updated this thread, and a lot has happened since I last posted. While I was up in Seattle, injector #4 decided that it didn't want to work anymore, so I limped my car home to find out that it had "fixed" itself. That was temporary, and it started acting up again. So I headed of to the JY to pickup some "new" injectors. I got it up and running, but found out some interesting info about injectors, see my thread here:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=972291#post972291

 

So I got that all fixed up, but I still hadn't gotten around to looking at my duty b problem, as I still had that issue. So I finally got around to installing my modded TCU into my car, and low and behold that fixed my problem! I just had a bum TCU! :banana: :banana: That made me super happy for sure. Having a sweet arse mod actually fix something is fantastic!

 

I also got around to removing my remote start from my totaled loyale, so now all I have to do is install it :) I told myself that when I fixed all my mechanical issues with the car, then I would start adding all the fun stuff, so now that all the mechanical issues have been addressed (and then some :rolleyes:) now the fun begins :grin: First is going to be the remote start, then the stereo, and then the lift.

 

The lift is going to be the hardest/longest part to do since I need tires and outback struts before I can really lift it. But at least it will start with a push of a button, and my tunes will sound just effing fantastic, so that will tide me over till I can come up with the money for the rest of the lift and some good tires :)

 

Hopefully this week I will start installing the remote start, but we shall see how ambitious I get over the holiday weekend. Turkey tends to kinda kill of any motivation after eating a boat load of it :lol: But hopefully it will be starting from inside my house very soon :grin:

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